The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 14

Yuck. We like to use the terminology; "Baby Butt Smooth" yar'bouts.

Besides...haven't ya'all ever heard 'bout Dentures?

Hi jonesi,

Sorry we kept'cha hangin'

A. Mix the Reflective Base and the Viscosity Base seperately

B. Mix the Colorants using either a large Syringe to draw up precise amounts to dispense directly into 75% of the recommended water inside a Glass container, or by simply squeezing out the needed amount into a Shot-Glass sized measuring cup.

Note: If you have a small Digital Measuring scale, place the Shot-Glass measuring container on it, Zero it out, then dispense the selected Tint "slowly" up to the prescribed measured line. Note the "weight" and use that as a guidline for everything else, percentage-wise.

Another sure fire method is to simply dispense an entire 2 oz tube of any particular Tint into a zeroed out container, note the weight the two onces amounts to, then simply divide downward to match the amounts needed for each of the 4 colorants.

Myself, I just use entire tube by multiplying the smaller amounts out until I reach more easily obtainable amounts. The "Weight" method is extremely accurate, and it's nice to be able to use your remaining portion of water to rinse out the container your using.

The real key is to be a precise as possible in the measuring of the Colorant, as it's degree of "Neutrality" is wholly dependent upon getting the proportions as close to perfect as possible to achieve a pure, dark neutral Gray, which itself should resemble a ultra dark shade of Dirty Motor Oil...and when rinsed off a utensil under a light stream of water into a white basin will show a distinct, pure Gray color. If it looks Brown, Reddish, Greenish, or Blue-Purplish....post up again immediately for the needed corrective action. That action might simply involve going ahead and mixing it into the combined Reflective Base & Viscosity Base, and then correctly the obvious Color Shift. Trying to correct the Colorant itself is extremely difficult and not advisable.

So OK then....you got your Reflective / Viscosity bases ready, and your Colorant is bang on correct. Using the Squirrel Cage Mixing Tool on low speed, mix the Colorant into the Viscosity Base slowly, and do so only until you see the majority of it blended well.

The pour the Viscosity Mix into the Reflective Mix and slowly blend them together. DO NOT USE A HIGH SPEED TO MIX! This will "whip" the paint, creating air bubbles, and you want to avoid that.

At this point, before you add any additional water, you lift the Mixing tool out of the paint and note how smoothly and fast the paint runs off the Tool. It should not "slide or ooze" but actually "drain off" and the Turbine vanes on the mixer should "pop" open in under 20 seconds. If not, add water in additional 2 oz increments until it (mix) does exactly that.

Now your ready to strain the paint mix through a 1 Gallon "Nylon Sock-Style" Strainer into a "CLEAN" 1 gallon paint can.

After that, should you find upon trying to paint that the mix still does not flow freely and produce at least a 12" tall vertical pattern, add additional water in 1 once increments until it does.

Tips:

Rinse off the Mixing tool "Immediately" after using it.

Disassemble and rinse out the Gun and Tip pieces, It only takes a couple minutes and assures that the Gun has a clear, free-flowing action every time. The Wagner CS (Regular & Double Duty) being integrated Turbine/Spray Head guns, heat up just enough that such heat can bake the paint onto the Plastic components, therein restricting or plugging up the parts.

If there are any other lingering doubts about how to do the spraying, times between coats, types of coats, etc....don't rush in to keep going on a hope, or make any guesses. Haul up and post, or contact me (check PM) and getter dun right the first time.

It's more fun and infinitely more satisfying to do so....believe me!

The original formula makes approx 4.25 oz. of colorant.

If you opt to use larger amounts of each Tint, measuring becomes easier, and you can always share the remaining excess with other members by posting up it's availability.

Here's some help: (ounces are US-Fluid)

30ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red (= 1 ounce / 120ml = 4 oz. )
15ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green (= 0.5 ounce / 60ml = 2 oz. )
10ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue (= 0.3 ounce / 40ml = 1.35 0z. )
5ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue (= 0.15 ounce / 20ml = 0.675 oz )

240 ml Water = 8 oz. (well...close enough)

8 oz Water
8 oz Colorant
= 16 oz Total colorant




Ya got plenty of water in the Mix above, but the wagner rinses out under normal tap water


There, or at Home Depot They come in a package of 2 for $1.99
They rinse out super easy (rinse backwards) if you do it immediately after you strain.

If the paint's viscosity is correct, the paint should rise up and pool slightly in the Sock Filter's "cupped depression" you make at the top of the can...under a slow but steady pour....but when you stop pouring, the paint should receed fairly quickly.

That is the best way to judge the correct viscosity....NEVER depend on or use the little Black Viscosity Funnel that comes with the Wagner.


I'll hold ya to that......


Beer....
....make sure that the top/Bottom/Side edges have a "Run-Out" area that does not drop further than the thickness of the actual material your spraying onto. (...if it's a wall, disregard the above but rape up some Border material that will plainly show your paint line as you run off/out of the screen area. This is a great help at judging how much paint is going on, and how effectively you are maintaining your Row drop percentage. (60% Row overlap / 40% drop distance)

Practice......w/beer in hand.

Drink conspicuous amounts of beer before you get started to allay any nervous condition, and maintain administering such lubrication throughout the painting process.

I really do not have much else to go on about your situation so that's about all I can offer now.

Except drink good beer. Lousy beer will result in a totally failed effort.

Hi! Welcome aboard.


That's because it's night time...and there is no light. Turn on a PJ and deliver a 120" light source and watch how "lightened up" that room will get.


Good thinking, that.

For the projector I have been reading about the Epson 8350 and think that may be the best value. I also have 7.1 surround, so jockeying everything around will be interesting. [/quote]

The 8350 is a great choice...perhaps the best PJ ever for those wanting 1080p on a budget yet not wanting to compromise. However you might want to consider the 8700 because your situation NEEDS all the contrast help it can get.


Ditch the Canvass idea. Consider instead 5' x 10' Sintra Board in `1/4" thickness. It's virtually self supporting, a very smooth white surface that needs no priming, and accepts the sprayed on paint like a dream.


Well there ya go....do some thinin' and come back with your next post and let use know what direction you decide to head in.

Don't just "Edit"....hit the "Delete" boutton. Nothing you posted makes any sense, nor hold any weight considering the years of satisfied DIY'ers, their combined successes, and the many, MANY dedicated Theaters, Theater far more involved and extensively designed than yours, that spor excep0tional DIY screens.

You have no experience at all in DIY screenmaking...even your thread on this Forum constitutes a silly premise....that a Taupe painted wall is sufficent to use for a screen. It really just shows your effort for what it is, your vain attempt to try to belittle all other DIY scrren efforts by advocating a off color paint as being "JUST AS GOOD AS..."

As pb said, posts such as yours, coming from the source they do, espousing the opininons they show, are simply inappropriate and serving your own agenda.

At least you got that right. But will it stick? Almost assuredly not.

SF v.2 3.0 And you should be able to run the 180 on low lamp to achieve even better black levels.
Try to mount the top of the screen at least 16" down from the ceiling, to both allow for your PJs mounting considerations (see below**) as well as to reduce the penchant for any reflections from off that metallic copper ceiling.

**Be advised that the 180 will have a 7.2" lens Offset so when you mount it inverted, your drop from the ceiling, including the PJ's body height and mount assembly/Ceiling plate, must be exactly 7.2" less from "Lens center" to the top of the Screen itself.

........now I have to ask ya....how / why does the ceiling height vary from 7.5' to 8'? Where does this variance occur? Anywhere in line with the Screen wall and the 10' 6" throw location?