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The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 15

post #421 of 1125
5/25/11 at 12:37pm
Here's a quick screenshot of the cad file I used to layout the room along with the rest of the basement.

J

Edit: Here are a few pics of the HT room. It's a mess, I know. But it gives you an idea of the recessed ceiling, the PJ and the room overall. Also, threw one in of the AV cabinet that I am building. The side will have a removable panel so I can more easily access the rear of components.
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post #422 of 1125
5/26/11 at 3:28pm
Went shopping today to get paints. I noticed that Michael's carries Liquitex Gold and Silver but not "Metallic" Gold or Silver. Is there a difference?

Also as an fyi...between 2 Michael's so far, I've only come up with a 2 oz. and 8 oz. bottle of Ceramcoat. I noticed they are on clearance so not sure if they plan to continue stocking. Gonna check one more Michael's tonight and if that doesn't pan out, I guess I'll have to order online.

J
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post #423 of 1125
5/26/11 at 3:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

shortest throw plus a few inches... so mount it at 10'8" - 11'.

go with SF V2 3.0

This is regular SF v2 3.0 NOT SF HG v2 3.0 correct? Which would be better for occasional ambient light viewing (not sure how much wifey will like watching TV in bat cave mode)? (football season will be awesome at my house)

Sorry to over-confirm...
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post #424 of 1125
5/26/11 at 3:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PanteraGSTK View Post

This is regular SF v2 3.0 NOT SF HG v2 3.0 correct? Which would be better for occasional ambient light viewing (not sure how much wifey will like watching TV in bat cave mode)? (football season will be awesome at my house)

Sorry to over-confirm...

I have a strong feeling it's gonna be SF v2 3.0 and NOT the HG version. You will love it, BTW. =)
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post #425 of 1125
5/26/11 at 8:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstif View Post

Also as an fyi...between 2 Michael's so far, I've only come up with a 2 oz. and 8 oz. bottle of Ceramcoat. I noticed they are on clearance so not sure if they plan to continue stocking. Gonna check one more Michael's tonight and if that doesn't pan out, I guess I'll have to order online.

J

I ended up going to 3 Michals to get the pearl and was told that they were no longer going to stock it
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post #426 of 1125
5/27/11 at 6:03am
I need to practice with my power sprayer. Any suggestions on what paint to use? Should I dilute it?

J
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post #427 of 1125
5/27/11 at 7:03am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstif View Post

I need to practice with my power sprayer. Any suggestions on what paint to use? Should I dilute it?

J

Just go to the 'depot' or Lowes and ask for a Gallon of the cheapest interior enamel (...or Flat...) latex paint they have (usually $9-11.00), have them tint it a medium Gray, and then get both your dilution and spray technique down pat.
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post #428 of 1125
5/27/11 at 7:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post

I have a strong feeling it's gonna be SF v2 3.0 and NOT the HG version. You will love it, BTW. =)

I thought so, but wanted to confirm. Again. So now I need to get things started. Thanks guys.
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post #429 of 1125
5/27/11 at 9:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Hi jonesi,

Note: If you have a small Digital Measuring scale, place the Shot-Glass measuring container on it, Zero it out, then dispense the selected Tint "slowly" up to the prescribed measured line. Note the "weight" and use that as a guidline for everything else, percentage-wise.

Myself, I just use entire tube by multiplying the smaller amounts out until I reach more easily obtainable amounts. The "Weight" method is extremely accurate, and it's nice to be able to use your remaining portion of water to rinse out the container your using.

The real key is to be a precise as possible in the measuring of the Colorant, as it's degree of "Neutrality" is wholly dependent upon getting the proportions as close to perfect as possible to achieve a pure, dark neutral Gray, which itself should resemble a ultra dark shade of Dirty Motor Oil...and when rinsed off a utensil under a light stream of water into a white basin will show a distinct, pure Gray color. If it looks Brown, Reddish, Greenish, or Blue-Purplish....post up again immediately for the needed corrective action. That action might simply involve going ahead and mixing it into the combined Reflective Base & Viscosity Base, and then correctly the obvious Color Shift. Trying to correct the Colorant itself is extremely difficult and not advisable.

OK I used the weight method and was as precise as possible.
however my mix has a brown tint to it while it is wet. (it is in a Gatoraid bottle)
I put some colorant on a sheet of paper and let it dry all night.
the dry colorant looks black (where it was thick) to a light gray (where it was thin)
here is the ratio, weight wise that I used
180 grams water
90 grams red
45 grams green
30 grams blue
15 grams yellow

I think it is fine especially after the white paper test.
does anybody see anything wrong with my weights?

going to pick up my Sintra today whoohoo,
and a new tv our main one died this week

Is a circular saw the best way to cut 6mm Sintra?

as always thanks
Erich
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post #430 of 1125
5/27/11 at 12:42pm
Thread Starter 
Gaaaaaaaaaa...........!

I've stated over & over that anyone getting Sintra that needs cutting should have the Outlet cut it for them !!!! THEY HAVE A PRECISON SAW TABLE....usually they will make 2 cuts @ N/C. Let them be responsible for cutting...and any mistake...before you shell out funds.

Otherwise....use a 120 Tooth Panel blade and cut on the opposite side of the surface that will be the screen.
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post #431 of 1125
5/27/11 at 12:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Gaaaaaaaaaa...........!

I've stated over & over that anyone getting Sintra that needs cutting should have the Outlet cut it for them !!!! THEY HAVE A PRECISON SAW TABLE....usually they will make 2 cuts @ N/C. Let them be responsible for cutting...and any mistake...before you shell out funds.

Noted
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post #432 of 1125
5/30/11 at 11:26am
Hi,

This is my first post but I've been lurking on AVS for years. I'm gathering my supplies to build a SF V.2 screen for my apartment. Here's my situation:

PJ: Panny AE4000 (incredible projector)
Screen Size: 96" Diagonal (16:9)
Substrate: Thrifty White Hardboard or Sintra at the right price
Throw: 9' 5"
Viewing Distance: 9' 5"
Ceiling Height: 8'
Ceilings and Walls are all bright white and cannot be altered (I know, clearly worst case scenario).

From this distance, the PJC calculator shows that I'm pushing 56 fLs . In real world settings post-calibration it is likely a bit less than this, but I'm not entirely sure how to calculate fLs.

As far as ambient light and viewing habits, I have a moderately controlled room that has one sliding glass balcony door to the right covered with curtains. Light seeps through during the day, but it can be just about pitch black at night. I am big sports guy so I will be watching about 40-50% with some dim light, 50-60% in totally controlled environment at night.

I've only had the projector a week now. Up to this point, I've been projecting against a white textured wall, and even that has been a huge upgrade from my puny 50" LCD, but I know I haven't reached this projector's true potential. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of leeway as far as modifications that can be made to the walls.

I was planning on SF V.2 3.0, but I wanted to talk to the amazing experts on this forum first before I start mixing. Taking into consideration the above situation, how much colorant do you guys suggest I use?
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post #433 of 1125
5/30/11 at 11:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksimm1 View Post

Hi,

This is my first post but I've been lurking on AVS for years. I'm gathering my supplies to build a SF V.2 screen for my apartment. Here's my situation:

PJ: Panny AE4000 (incredible projector)
Screen Size: 96" Diagonal (16:9)
Substrate: Thrifty White Hardboard or Sintra at the right price
Throw: 9' 5"
Viewing Distance: 9' 5"
Ceiling Height: 8'
Ceilings and Walls are all bright white and cannot be altered (I know, clearly worst case scenario).

From this distance, the PJC calculator shows that I'm pushing 56 fLs . In real world settings post-calibration it is likely a bit less than this, but I'm not entirely sure how to calculate fLs.

As far as ambient light and viewing habits, I have a moderately controlled room that has one sliding glass balcony door to the right covered with curtains. Light seeps through during the day, but it can be just about pitch black at night. I am big sports guy so I will be watching about 40-50% with some dim light, 50-60% in totally controlled environment at night.

I've only had the projector a week now. Up to this point, I've been projecting against a white textured wall, and even that has been a huge upgrade from my puny 50" LCD, but I know I haven't reached this projector's true potential. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of leeway as far as modifications that can be made to the walls.

I was planning on SF V.2 3.0, but I wanted to talk to the amazing experts on this forum first before I start mixing. Taking into consideration the above situation, how much colorant do you guys suggest I use?

How big is the room? How far from the side walls and ceiling will the screen edges be? Being that you will most likely have a ton of reflected light from the image itself off the walls and ceiling, I would go with a SF v2 4.0...
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post #434 of 1125
5/30/11 at 11:43am
The room dimensions are roughly 11x18. The screen is about 4 feet from the sides of the wall and 2.5 feet from the ceiling.
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post #435 of 1125
5/30/11 at 11:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksimm1 View Post

The room dimensions are roughly 11x18. The screen is about 4 feet from the sides of the wall and 2.5 feet from the ceiling.

Oh ok, then 3.0 would be a good bet. Let's see what MM and/or pb_maxxx have to say.
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post #436 of 1125
5/30/11 at 1:00pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eruiz View Post

oh ok, then 3.0 would be a good bet. Let's see what mm and/or pb_maxxx have to say.

sf 4.0
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post #437 of 1125
5/30/11 at 1:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


sf 4.0

I guess my first guess was the right one then. :-P
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post #438 of 1125
5/30/11 at 1:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post

I guess my first guess was the right one then. :-P

Thanks for the quick response guys. And ERuiz, your previous posts and pictures of SF 4.0 will be a great help to make sure I'm on the right track. Much appreciated.
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post #439 of 1125
5/30/11 at 1:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksimm1 View Post

Thanks for the quick response guys. And ERuiz, your previous posts and pictures of SF 4.0 will be a great help to make sure I'm on the right track. Much appreciated.

No problem, K. And as MM has always said, don't hesitate to ask questions. Better to ask and wait for a response, than to venture ahead and screw things up. :-)
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post #440 of 1125
5/31/11 at 7:33am
Scavenging through the Micheal's here and Ive come across an issue. I found two Delta Ceramcoat products...one is the bottle with the delta logo in a "flower" behind it (the one others have posted) in Pearl Finish......but there is also a Delta Ceramcoat GLEAMS Pearl Finish. It has a taupe/tan label and the copyright date on the back of the label is 1998. Is this different or did Delta just add the "Gleams" for marketing purposes back in the day?
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post #441 of 1125
5/31/11 at 9:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Gaaaaaaaaaa...........!

I've stated over & over that anyone getting Sintra that needs cutting should have the Outlet cut it for them !!!! THEY HAVE A PRECISON SAW TABLE....usually they will make 2 cuts @ N/C. Let them be responsible for cutting...and any mistake...before you shell out funds.

Otherwise....use a 120 Tooth Panel blade and cut on the opposite side of the surface that will be the screen.

You had me worried,
It was not that hard to do at all.
Got the screen painted this weekend very pleased with the results.
Haven't had much time to use it yet though.
Here is a close up (from a crappy cell phone)

and one of the room with the screen hung (white sintra next to screen)

next will be the border
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post #442 of 1125
5/31/11 at 10:17am
Thread Starter 
That looks real good...and gives a great comparison as to the difference between White and the finished Gray shade of the Screen.
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post #443 of 1125
5/31/11 at 10:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by FUN4ME View Post


You had me worried,
It was not that hard to do at all.
Got the screen painted this weekend very pleased with the results.
Haven't had much time to use it yet though.
Here is a close up (from a crappy cell phone)

and one of the room with the screen hung (white sintra next to screen)

next will be the border

Good job bud!
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post #444 of 1125
6/1/11 at 8:37am
I added better pictures here
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1329606
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post #445 of 1125
6/1/11 at 12:04pm
So I started mixing today and the base colorant is definitely not grey.....looks more like a deep deep chocolate. I did it twice just to make sure I didn't mess up the proportions....30ml red, 15ml green, 10 ml blue, 5 ml yellow, 60 ml water......and both cups came out this deep chocolate color.

So where is the stupid factor coming in for me....am I missing something key? I used a kids medicine syringe so I'm pretty confident I hit the target ml's as precise as one can. Squirted the colors into 40ml of the water so the paints wouldnt "stick" to the cup sides and bottom.
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post #446 of 1125
6/1/11 at 12:14pm
Thread Starter 
Even so, if the red is misjudged by even a hair's breadth, you can get a "push' in that direction. Same can apply for the Green...or Blue. And to be frank, if too much Yellow is added by just a tiddle bit, that too can create a "brown push".

Dip a spoon into the colorant and then very slowly rinse it off into a white sink. If the rinse looks Gray...your there.

Often, when viewed by itself under light, the colorant can look a bit ultra dark brownish. That is why we say it should look like very old, used Motor Oil.

In any case, if there is a slight overage of Red in the colorant, once you mix the colorant into the overall paint solution, any needed "fix' is quick and easy. If such is needed....just ask.
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post #447 of 1125
6/1/11 at 12:26pm
Well, the sage advice is right again.....drizzled a bit in a white sink with both incandescents and fluorescent lights on overhead in the bathroom and sure enough the paint looks grey now.......if anything it may have a slight purplish tinge to it (but hard to tell precisely when i don't have a true "control" sample").

Looks like I'll proceed and see what happens when everything else is mixed together.....
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post #448 of 1125
6/2/11 at 1:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCRedhawk View Post
Scavenging through the Micheal's here and Ive come across an issue. I found two Delta Ceramcoat products...one is the bottle with the delta logo in a "flower" behind it (the one others have posted) in Pearl Finish......but there is also a Delta Ceramcoat GLEAMS Pearl Finish. It has a taupe/tan label and the copyright date on the back of the label is 1998. Is this different or did Delta just add the "Gleams" for marketing purposes back in the day?
That's the same bottle I passed on a couple of months back when purchasing the Delta and Matt Basics paints from the same OP, KS store. That bottle of 'GLEAMS' has been there a long time, I imagine. My guess is that is the reason Michael's isn't going to carry the pearl anymore (and why it was on clearance).
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post #449 of 1125
6/2/11 at 1:34pm
Two coats down, three to go. Learned a few lessons along the way.....my overlap for the first duster was a little lousy - made up for it more evenly on the second duster. But I noticed that I naturally overlap less when Im reaching up on the top portion of the screen compared to when the gun is in front of me or Im crouching. Have to make a real concerted effort to not drop the gun so quickly on the upper 25% of the screen.

Also probably didn't have the material flow as heavy as I should have since I found myself moving a bit on the slower side to get the duster type coverage.

The final mix looked nicely grey after my noob concerns over the brown push of the colorant. Under the LED light on my Dewalt drill when using the squirrel cage mixer th reflected light is definitely blue/purple - which seems to be the natural color temperature of the LED light.

So far so good. 3 more coats to go.

And I have opposite WAF going on - she's on my butt to finish as fast as possible because she wants to watch Real Housewives on the screen tonight. I build a mancave and even that gets taken over.

Oh - and on the GLEAMS vs. "regular" Pearl Coat....the newer stuff seemed to have a slightly darker tint to it. The Gleams was more white -and I made sure I shook the bejeezus out of the bottles.
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post #450 of 1125
6/2/11 at 4:51pm
Finished the 4th coat - everything was looking great. Good color, texture, etc. Started the 5th and the stupid gene kicked in. Inadvertently turned the spray nozzle the wrong way and ended up doing 3 or 4 top rows of a horizontal line across itself. Think I lucked out and didn't cause any drips or runs, but its definitely thicker up top when wet.

Thinking I'll do a quick duster 6th coat just to give a consistent final texture. And I used pretty much the whole contents of the bucket, which I assume means I may have put things on a little heavy.
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