The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 25

I really think you should just mount the Plexi, coat it with Glidden Gripper Primer (Roll on 2 coats minimum using a smooth, Fine Finish Roller and w/a light sanding after the 2nd coat) and them apply SF 1.0

You can instead go with "White Fusion" and use the TWH backer, but doing so introduces the need to get the exact correct amount of paint on the top of the Plexi or otherwise there is really no use for having the "Gap" between the Top surface and the reflective rear 1/4" behind. Likewise if you use the Mylar.

Excepting taking into account that the plexiglass will have a surface that will more readily
accept paint, there would be no advantage between the each or the other, especially if you already possess the plexi.

Well then, you should try using the Mylar for your Backing.

A "Sandwich" of Plexi- and Mylar and TWH would work....

sf 2.0

Well then..."Whip us" up some Screen shots!

It also has a higher amount of Pearl, and additional UPW.

Shoot PB-Maxx a PM for more tips on this.

While I'm sure that the majority of members would have an opinion that differs from your wifes
But.....
To quotes King Leonidas, " Thier numbers count for nothing."

Truthfully, you don't have an awful lot of space at the top of the screen for trim, yet more trouble a man that is a fact that your ceiling isn't such close proximity to the screen. That being said, I'd let her decorate the screen wall as she sees fIt, while she allows you to paint a 30 inch wide black stripe across the ceiling directly over the screen.

Many do not realize that the color of the wall the screen is mounted on the can seldomom have any affect on image quality. It is the surrounding walls and ceiling that have the most effect.

jschuetz,

First off, I'm sure I speak for all DIY Screen contributors when I say we thank you for your compliments. On this Forum, we try our best to address the widest range of possible questions regarding PJ selection and installation / Screens choice, and Theater design. In truth, all the aforementioned are governing factors in determining "Best Case" scenarios. Or even, "I gotta do the best I can..." kinda get-bys.

To that effect, sometimes the advice you receive runs counter to what is expected. But it's "all Good' because it comes for much experience, not a few decidedly different examples.

Answers to your listed posers.

1. SF 2.5 3.0 us a excellent choice. With reservations. (see question 2.)

2. 16" off center translates to being "very off center" as relates to the amount of Lens shift needed to correct such. There are two very good reasons to commit to a Inverted Ceiling mount.

A. Ceiling mounting will allow a "centered" approach, virtually eliminating the need for excessive Lens shift, which can reduce Lumen output, create image distortion, and limit "vertical Lens shift ability...of which you will also need a maximum of travel if you Shelf mount the PJ and needs must lower the image to a great degree. Take my word on this...it's a given.

B. You can move the PJ closer to within 10% of the minimum allowable Throw distance for the given Screen size...allowing you to optimize lumen output, and turn the PJ on Low Lamp mode for better Blacks and longer Lamp life.

If you simply must mount the PJ "away back there" then do so on a Shelf that protrudes out from the Corner "sideways". You could even make it be a high shelf you could then suspend a ceiling Mount from and invert the PJ.

3.You can do it. There won't be that much Screen needing support, and really, a simple 1 x 4 Poplar "Box" Frame directly behind the raised area will suffice if the Sintra itself is adhered to the bottom wall.

jschuetz,

If you use a Chief RPA-168 Mount Kit combined with a Peerless ACC-570 Round Ceiling Plate and a 2" long Threaded 1.5" NPT Nipple, the distance from the ceiling to the bottom of the PJ will only be 9"

Wrapping is desired primarily because it's a known value. the Black Velvet we primarily suggest is affordable, and overall, creating a trim ring to exact dimensions and placing it exactly where desired usually is easier than using Sticky Back Velvet Tape*...whose anti-reflective properties seldom match those of the "Triple Plush" Black Velvet found here.:
http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/P...Velvet/681/264

That being said, anything that works and does not detract from a screen's performance and appearance, and more so, if it allows a degree of flexibility other "preferred' apps do no...well then, I say ya gotta go for it!
* You did say "Ribbon", yes? Hmmmmm...if it has a plush, non-sheen surface and can be pulled tight enough to lay flat and confrom to the surface, it might be worthy to consider.


Butcha know there's more....what's that question about the trim's depth?

The height of the Mdf Base Board at the leading tapered edge at Screen's edge is less than 1/8", so as to "NOT" produce any shadow onto the edge of the screen from a sideways/overhead positioned-incoming light source.

To effectively mask out incoming light that approaches the screen wall from more than 30 degrees, the depth of the screen's surface from the surrounding outside leading edge would have to be over 3'.

Not practical.

Now if one has Sconces on each side of the screen, well that's different. A 16" wide Velvet surface angled outward from the screen's edge at 70 degrees works wonders.

Still kinda a "I gotta do it because..." thingee.

But absolutely, it's detrimental to have a deep (too tall actually) "Surface Mounted" Trim. The leading edge "WILL" create a inside shadow if the light coming in is of a higher foot candle level than the projected light...something not desired that's also furthered by having a White screen.

Sooooooooo.....when actual trim is used, the "screen edge" should be extremely shallow. Base Board Trim that has a single curved edge is great....as is single curved "Stepped Edge" trim.

1x3 / 1x4 ? Gosh...it's a Screen....not a Picture Window !!!!

Here is a big 'ol 120" DaLite Matte White Electrol Retractable in San Diego, ensconced in a Hacienda-like home in Rancho Sante Fe

It was a "original formula" Silver Fire 2.0, "Dusted" on using a lowly old original Wagner Control Spray a-way back in 2009.

The home was one of those +$4 Mil jobs, with the Furniture in the Formal Living Room costing as much as many peoples yearly salary, so the decision to paint the Screen "inside" was not one I made lightly. Fur Shur....if I had been using a Tank/Hose/Gun HVLP Rig, it would not have happened, nor would I have considered Rolling it (Silver Fire) on since that would have been inadvisable.

As shown, the Walls & Ceiling where a bright Flat White, but fortunately the Ceiling as 12' high and the Side Walls were a good 3' & 5' away on each side of the Screen, so there was little chance of any adverse re-directed reflected light from the PJ to worry about washing out the screen's image.

So the first thing in order of doing was to liberally mask off the area where I was going to temporarily hang the Screen with chains (...eventually the Screen was located behind a built-out section of Crown Molding...) so it would be low enough to effectively reach without a walkway platform.



I covered the strange, skinny Clock, but not the Stone Hearth or Picture, knowing that the "Maid" would dust them off.



However, you betcha a draped every piece of Floor Furniture....



......and every bit of the $150.00 yard Carpet!!!



BTW, that is a Epson 1080UB a'hangin' way up there at 17' away from the Screen

Let the coating commence! (...sorry, no Video, but it was a standard "Duster" procedure w/no primer applied beforehand...) You will note that I taped over the Black Surround using Painter's Blue Tape, then I taped over it again and attached the outside edges of the Screen to each side of the 10' case opening.

1st Coat



2nd Coat



Final Coat after drying.....and under "Flash" conditions



Side shot w/Flash taken from 2' away from the left corner.....



So how'd it turn out?

You tell me......., (note: Screen is now hung at proper height)













When I was done, I simply gathered up the thin plastic (9' x 12' sheets of .7 mil ) into a wad, picked up my "Wagster", and faded off onto the Beaches, where I consumed mass quantities of Anchor Steam Beer and contemplated the wonders of "String" theory as they walked by.

The Universe is a wonderful place to be....leastwise when your at the beach.

Cure Time before initial retraction: 72 hours under good drying conditions. It should feel "Dry" to the extended touch....not "Cool".

The Screen shown was painted in 2009, has been extended & retracted far more than most, and still exhibits no wrinkles, cracking or peeling. I wouldn't say it's been extended more than it's been retracted though, because after all, when lowered it effectively blocks a major Case opening into the Grand Foyer.

In truth, the total amount of paint applied with Duster spraying is very thin, it's very resilient and flexible, and very resistant to normal wear.

The only thing that mars perfection is that the Black Surround's edges tend to curve inward, but that was happening "New out of the Box" before any paint was ever applied. The Screen's surface itself still appears to be wave & wrinkle free

The "perfect" application would be to do such a paint modification on a Tab Tensioned Screen, almost all of which only come in Matte White anyway.