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The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 27

post #781 of 1462
I just finished skim coating my 120" diagonal wall and applied 2 coats of Kilz primer last night. The wall is 95% smooth with and very flat. Is Silver 2.5 still recommended if my only option is to roll it on with foam roller paint nap?
post #782 of 1462
Hi,Missisippi Man, I just ordered the sintra board. My current screen is mounted drywall 100" floating .no boarders .Question how should I mount the sintra 120" , what can I use for boarders ? Thanks
post #783 of 1462
Mississippi , price of sintra board was $175 searching online came across $153 6mm 60 by 120 what the going price for this ?
post #784 of 1462
The $175 price was at columbia location.
post #785 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by movie3121 View Post

Hi,Missisippi Man, I just ordered the sintra board. My current screen is mounted drywall 100" floating .no boarders .Question how should I mount the sintra 120" , what can I use for boarders ? Thanks

In the past if the wall is flat enough, MM has cut the Sintra such that there is a little extra area (that will be masked off) where he has screwed the Sintra directly to the wall (and probably with some adhesive in the middle of the Sintra) around the edges. Then after painting, the screws would be covered with masking.

Masking can be made with many things. One of the more popular is trim moulding (like you see at the base of a wall in your home). Cut it to fit, wrap it in black velvet, and use finishing nails to mount it to/around the screen.
post #786 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by movie3121 View Post

Hi,Missisippi Man, I just ordered the sintra board. My current screen is mounted drywall 100" floating .no boarders .Question how should I mount the sintra 120" , what can I use for boarders ? Thanks

First, thanks NewGate88 for bearing the load. wink.gif

Movie, if you still want a boarder-less Screen, you will have to determine what Format and size . Then a determination as to both cutting and a mounting procedure can be made.

Boarder-less 2.35:1 @ 120" x 50" = 130" diagonal

Bordered .....2.35:1 @ can be the same dimension with trim butted up to the outside edges.


Boarder-less 16:9 @ 107" x 60" - 122" diagonal

Bordered .....16:9 @ can be the same dimension with trim butted up to the outside edges.
post #787 of 1462
Thanks,Newgate and Missis: Great help my plans are 16:9 . Where can I get sintra for good price?
post #788 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by movie3121 View Post

Thanks,Newgate and Missis: Great help my plans are 16:9 . Where can I get sintra for good price?

The same place you got that crappily inflated price.

Lemmie see if I can arrange for you to PU a sheet under a better pricing.

Check back past 10:30 am tomorrow.
post #789 of 1462
I have a silver fire 3.0 on 6mm sintra board (the board is 60x106)big enough to have a 118 inch image. If anyone lives near central Pennsylvania and wants a finished screen on the cheap, pm me. Or, you can just use the board for whatever paint you want to apply.

I also have the Gleem no name (which is the Graco) sprayer. Willing to ship this in the lower 48 for cheap. If inerested in the sprayer pm me.

Jay
post #790 of 1462
So I finally got my dibond panel today and I am looking to spray pretty soon. Id like to know if Silver fire is a good choice for my situation and if it is what version. My setup is as follows:

projector: Optoma HD33
Throw: it will be between 13'2 and 14' (damn light fixture may not be able to be moved)
screen size: 120"
There will be some ambient light in the room
post #791 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Silver Fire 2.0 is a "Best choice"
RS-MaxxMudd Standard a very workable but easier second choice.
post #792 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Ka-bumping this thread because I have edited the Silver Fire v2.5 formula to show the most recent changes PB-Maxx introduced late last year. Look to the 1st Post on page 1 for the aforementioned latest Formula. I have also included the "edited version" below to help those who are new to find it more easily (...if this Thread remains on/near the 1st page of Threads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

OK Everyone,


In cooperation and collusion with PB-Maxx, here is the latest version of Silver Fire.


Primary credit goes to PB-Maxx for these changes, as he is ever diligent in trying to keep both Paint Component quality and availability in line with Silver Fire's performance potential.

Attention!
The Following edit contains what is the most recent version of the Silver Fire formulation. Previous versions retain their validity, but the most recent versions are geared toward both refining the Formula, and in some instances, replacing components that either are hard / impossible to get, or less effective than the current choices. In the most recent version below, the individual Component amounts within the Reflective Base are graduated depending upon the chosen darkness of the mix upon adding specif amounts of SF Colorant.

*Last and Final update/revision - 11/11/2011

SILVER FIRE v2.5

(Color Components)
100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
16ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
9ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

(Viscosity Components)
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish
24 - 36 oz. Distilled or Filtered water*

(Reflective Base Components)*
Silver Fire v2.5 hue (Colorant amount in ounces – oz) 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl* 20 21 22 23 24
Liquitex Basics Silver 20 21 22 23 24
Behr 1850 UPW Flat 10 10 10 10 10
Liquitex Basics Gold 1.50 1.75 2.00 2.25 2.50

* Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl is currently found only at Menards or online.


*the 'base' & 'viscosity' components are to mixed separately from the 'colorant' components.


*Graco electric sprayer starts with 24oz. of water mininum. Wagner DD - 24oz minimum. Wagner CS - 36oz minimum.



The numerical equivalent of the shade of Gray (SF v2 1.0/1.5/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0/5.0 on to ad nausea-um ) is equal to the amount "IN OUNCES" of Colorant added to what is a consistent and unchanging* Base combo of reflective and viscosity mixes.
* (...unless we decide to change them, of course. We'll let you know if we do.)


You want a lighter Silvery Gray screen that is excellent for a dedicated Theater yet still assists in improving perceived Contrast? Use 1 to 1.5 "OUNCES" of SF Colorant added to the reflective and viscosity Bases.


A Darker Gray for combating Ambient Light? Add 3.0 "OUNCES" That would make the SF v2 Screen a "3.0 version"


Got a veritable Light Cannon and unusually high Ambient Light situation so that you need something Really Dark? Add 5 "OUNCES" of colorant for a SFv2 5.0 screen.



post #793 of 1462
Hey MM...quick question for you. I got my paint supplies a few months ago and have just been really lazy. Was gonna paint this weekend and took a glance at the new 2.5 mix updates and realized that I don't have enough silver. I swore I got enough as I was really careful in writing down the list. Do you have a link or something for what the formula was prior to your recent update? The one I had been looking at was without the graduated base mix. Long story short...16 oz of silver isn't nearly enough apparently...just trying to make myself feel like I'm not going crazy.

Thanks!

oops...I was planning on doing a 3.0 version...info you might have needed smile.gif
post #794 of 1462
Thread Starter 
jschuetz,

How big is your screen to be? The Reflectivity Mix and Viscosity mix can be graduated downward proportionately to achieve the same percentage of reflective components per volume. All that happens is that you wind up with somewhat less of a mix-amount.

But most find that they have plenty left over anyway. That is unless your screen will be substantially bigger than 130" diagonal.

Re-calculated mix amounts pertaining to a SF 2.5 3.0 Mix


(Reflective Base Components)

Rustoleum Pearl 16 oz.
Liquitex Basics Silver 16 oz
Behr Ultra Pure White 8 oz.
Liquitex Basics Gold 1.8 oz

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

(Viscosity Components)
13 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish
20 - 28 oz. Distilled or Filtered water*

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Color Component needed for 3.0 Mix equivalency: 2.75 oz.


The above makes minimally 83 oz....more likely 92-96 oz depending upon the amount of water required to be mixed to obtain the best possible rate of filtering through the prescribed "Sock Filter" as well as reaching a proper viscosity level (lowest) to allow for the paint to be properly atomized as it leaves the Gun. Seldom does one ever need much more than 2 quarts...certainly hardly ever as much as 3 quarts.
post #795 of 1462
Awesome! Thanks SO much for the info! That should give me plenty since my screen is just below 100"...using the white mdf board from Menards. I'm really looking forward to seeing the final result. I put the board up a few months ago and have been using it by itself and the results at night are great, but during the day not so much.
post #796 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Your very much welcome!

Be sure to ask if there is any uncertainty at all in your mind about painting procedure or technique, mixing, or preparation. The mantra on here is "ask first...squirt second".

If you want to be prepared to ask for "Real Time" advice (...a not so very unwise consideration...) , simply PM me and I'll provide a Phone Number.

MMan
post #797 of 1462
So I was ready to get my SF screen going and started to spray primer on my screen last night and royally screwed it up. I don't know if the paint wasn't thinned enough or I went to slow but there are runs all over. The paint was not very fine either. I watched the video of MM spraying and I was going faster than that so I don't know if it's a speed thing but I need a little help to correct my mistakes. How do I fix the screen, and what do I need to do to make sure it doesn't happen next time? Thanks!
Edited by Crim5onKing - 7/23/12 at 1:18am
post #798 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crim5onKing View Post

So I was ready to get my SF screen going and started to spray primer on my screen last night and royally screwed it up. I don't know if the paint wasn't thinned enough or I went to slow but there are runs all over. The paint was not very fine either. I watched the video of MM spraying and I was going faster than that so I don't know if it's a speed thing but I need a little help to correct my mistakes. How do I fix the screen, and what do I need to do to make sure it doesn't happen next time? Thanks!

Since my substrate is a dibond panel would it be best to sand the crappy layer down then shoot or get some solvent and just take off the paint altogether and start over?

Another question I have about using the 'no name' sprayer is how much should the flow rate be set to?
post #799 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crim5onKing View Post

Since my substrate is a dibond panel would it be best to sand the crappy layer down then shoot or get some solvent and just take off the paint altogether and start over?
Another question I have about using the 'no name' sprayer is how much should the flow rate be set to?

Brother, with Dibond, all you need to do is to use a wet sponge, get the paint saturated, and use a Plastic squeegee scraper followed by a good wipe-down if complete removal is desired. Try sanding it if you want, but the original ultra smooth coating the Dibond has is the best surface to start out with....at any conjecture.

Run the No Name on full.. Lately, many have been springing for the available 1.5mm needle kit. I use both it and the 2.0mm. Usually on a whim, not because either is absolutely preferable. The advantage of the 1.5 mm needle is that since the atomized droplets are smaller, there is decidedly less chance for them to meld together and create runs. (...think Raindrops cascading down a window...) I wouldn't know about all that owning to the fact that I never get runs. rolleyes.gif ....riiiiight.....

The real issue is to do a Duster as a Duster should be done......lightly...qiuckly....and with 70% overlap on each horizontal row. Up you speed across the material just a little bit....you cannot err doing so, only require yourself to do a couple extra Dusters to compensate.
post #800 of 1462
Hi All,

I am about to update my current pj, a HD20 to a HD3300 and have used my Behr Siverscreen for about 4 years I think and have been very happy with it. Company always remark on it's picture.

But anyways, the bug strike again and I would like to get some idea from you what improvements I might expect with the Silver Fire 2.5, 4.0, I think

This is the mix I used then:

Behr
41.00% 780 Water Base Poly Urethane
20.00% UPW Ultra Pure White
20.00% WOP White Opal Pearlesent
19.00% SM Silver Metalic

My room is only light controllable at night so ambient light rejection is important.

Thanks
Rew
Edited by Rew452 - 7/26/12 at 2:55am
post #801 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rew452 View Post

Hi All,
I am about to update my current pj, a HD20 to a HD3300 and have used my Behr Siverscreen for about 4 years I think and have been very happy with it. Company always remark on it's picture.
But anyways, the bug strike again and I would like to get some idea from you what improvements I might expect with the Silver Fire 2.5, 4.0, I think
This is the mix I used then:
Behr
41.00% 780 Water Base Poly Urethane
20.00% UPW Ultra Pure White
20.00% WOP White Opal Pearlesent
19.00% SM Silver Metalic
My room is only light controllable at night so ambient light rejection is important.
Thanks
Rew

eek.giftongue.gifbiggrin.gif

Heh, heh......., that mix would be the kind of altered SS concoction that drive BCortez to drink "off the Shelf" Brew!

Actually, unless you had added all the other listed ingredients to a specific amount of correctly tinted Silver Screen, what I see is not SS but MississippiMud -SE (Silver Edition)

That mix dates to 2004, and was instrumental in showing that paint, properly formulated, could indeed improve ambient light performance while mot sacrificing Gain as a stock Gray would / always does.

If you did in fact add all those ingredients to a base mix of SS, I'll say this. The resulting mix was in no way, shape or form SS anymore. As stated before, BCortez would be chuckin' chunks at the thought of such. biggrin.gif

Now then....with Silver Fire 2.5 4.0 you would experience a extremely better ability to watch content in ambient light. If you want to instead go about 1/2 way there, Silver Fire 2.5 2.0[/B would provide what would be just as great a "virtually Silver-white" surface as the MM-SE, but with improved ambient light performance over the latter.
post #802 of 1462
Hi MM good to hear from you.

Of course there was multiple steps applying base and multiple layers, I just copied my mix ratios.

The screen ends up being a light shade of silvery-gray until you turn on pj then it darkens very nicely for blacks and pops color wise.


OK, enough of that and back to SF v2.5.

Question, Does SF 2.5 / 2.0 have a higher apparent gain then 4.0 or is it the other way around?

I really think I am going to make this screen, it sound and looks very good from what I see in this thread.

Hopefully within the next couple of weeks, will have to get my supplies.
Oh by the way my screen size is somewhat smallish due to room; it's a 16:9 80in diagonal

Thanks much,

Rew
post #803 of 1462
This project is turning into more trouble than I expected. I finally got my dibond panel cleaned tonight from my first fiasco a few days ago and loaded up the No Name with some thinned glidden gripper primer. About a 1/3 of the way through i start smelling something then all of a sudden the paint stops mid-duster and starts spewing smoke. mad.gif Anyone else had any issues with the No Name? I'm inclined to think that I just got a bad unit so I'm going to contact Gleem in the morning. Hopefully this can get resolved soon so I can actually enjoy my SF screen.biggrin.gif

Luckily this time I got my wife and we both cleaned off the newly sprayed paint right away so we don't have to go through the pain of removing it again. But now my house smells like burnt plastic! rolleyes.gif
Edited by Crim5onKing - 7/26/12 at 9:30pm
post #804 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Wow........

That is a first (lucky you, eh?)

The issue has to be within the Motor / Impeller assembly since the Gun has no moving / electrical parts.
post #805 of 1462
Question:

In the formula, it list 100ml of distilled water to clean utensils, is this water then added to Hue ( colorant ) mix? Not quit clear.

(Color Components)
100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
16ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
9ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue


Thanks
Rew
post #806 of 1462
Yes that's correct..its part of the mix.
post #807 of 1462
Thanks!


Rew
post #808 of 1462
With the world's first 1080p LED/laser hybrid projector around the corner & will be introduced soon, can the current Silver Fire mix still applicable to this new technology projector?
Edited by WereWolf84 - 8/12/12 at 6:36am
post #809 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Of course it it / would be.

Just as the "adjust-ability Index" of Silver Fire alone makes it adaptable for any PJ / Room combination currently available, it can be tailor-made to anything coming in the near (...or far...) future.

While the main emphasis of the darker versions remain geared toward creating effective ambient light performance, the lighter versions contribute the same aspect to some variable extent, they all still lend an enhanced color palette and level of Gray Scale detail other screen surfaces do not.

Knowing a bit about those "New units" helps wipe away the clouds of optimism. While the Veiwsonic and Acer units both state they will come forward with approximately a 100,000:1 Contrast spec. , While that's not a non-respectable figure, that's not a "Native" specification, and is achieved primarily by scaling back Lumen output. While, and as such, those Laser/ / LED Hybrid PJs are initially geared for the Business Presentation market, their design also speaks of their being restricted to smaller presentation screens. The Residential HT Market has been gearing itself toward the "Big Picture" and high lumen / high contrast machines....which itself is tied in to the upsurge in interest in "Active" 3D, which in turn still demands higher lumens and brighter screens to produce acceptable imagery.

In any case, Silver Fire...RS-MaxxMudd...evensome simplier applications like ultra Bright Whits mixed with varying levels of Neutra Gray, they all have potential uses that will carry forward for some time yet to come.

If ya wanna get all crazt mad excited....do so about the hope / wish for affordable 4K displays.

It's all about Resolution & Contrast & Brightness, baby.

As far as Lasers go, it's still all about; "Do you expect me to beg?" ....."No Mr. Bond, I expect you to die!"
..........but don't write the Mercury Lamp PJ's epitaph just yet. cool.gif
post #810 of 1462
So I got my replacement motor for the No Name and have applied 2 dusters of primer. I had a lot of trouble keeping consistent overlap between each pass. Thankfully I can see no horizontal lines however I can tell it's uneven because there are a few spots where I can see specks of the dibond panel reflecting. Should I do another duster to try to even it out or move on to shooting SF? Thanks again for all the help!
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