The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 34

Very nice work.

Am I reading you correctly that you more than doubled the pearl and almost doubled the UPW in the original SF 3.0 mix?

i'd venture to say it's more in the 1.5 to 1.75 range to end up with.
the pearl in of itself will only lighten it about 1/2 a shade... and the upw maybe a full shade.
don't ask me how i know;)

what would be the consequences of thinning the SF mix too much?

because I'm thinking to add some water (probably 4-8 oz) to the leftover 24oz SF mix, not only make it a quart but perhaps also helps to get less texture

Just wanted to give an update as its been a few months since I completed the screen.

The screen came out very good, with the exception of a slight sheen which results in a rainbow effect similar to a rear projection DLP TV set has.
Also, I have a LOT of glitter sparkles. I have to move my head a little to get them from blinding me. but at any point in the room, you can move you head to see/hide the sparkle.

I think both the above is from the mica size in the paint. its just too large.

I still am very satisfied with the results and WOULD use Silverfire again, but its not perfect. I had a lot of trial and error, which i posted publicly. The end result, after painting tons of items that are in the room (speaker grills, shade covers, outlet plates, ect ect) I know my spray skills are upto par as all other finished projects came out perfect in execution and resulting in a SUPER smooth finish. I cant say the same for the SF application though. It needs to be looked at for the many of us using the no name sprayer. You have to compare apples to apples when you are telling people that it should result in something that is different than what others are seeing.

Please take this as constructive thoughts and not bashing or talking smack. I think you for ALL of the hard work and research you guys have done and would be staring at a knockdown textured wall still if it wasnt for that said hard work.

Here is the finished screen with trim

MM,

I'm gathering all of the supplies now in prepartion to shoot a SF v2.5 3.0 screen on the wall. I know i will need to sand the wall and primer, etc, but I do have a few questions I haven't seen addressed in the reading I've done. Hopefully you can help me.

1. I have the old HVLP guns I bought back in the day for using with an air compressor. I haven't actually looked to see what all is in those guns, so I don't know if I will need any additional tips (yet). My question is whether or not you recommend using this "old" setup as an acceptable alternative to buying an electric setup? I have a 20 gall compressor I would be using.

2. I have my old MMud screen still and it will go up in the kids' section of the basement with the old Epson pj. I would like to spray this one as a test before I spray the main theater's screen. The needs are different between the two rooms and the pj is very different (700 lumens max when new and it's not new any more...). The TW100 worked well in a no-ambient light theater with the MMud screen, but the new room will have controllable ambient light. It will mainly be used as a gaming rig for Wii and xBox stuff, but they will want to watch TV and movies there, too. My questions are:
a. What is the recommended SF mix for a less-controlled ambient light setting?
b. How much should I make up for this small screen (only 94" diag I think)? Should I make a huge batch and then adjust to make my 3.0 mix?
c. How easy will it be to take the leftover paint from that screen to make my 3.0 screen mix?

Thanks for the help. And if you'll be over this way any time soon, let me know.

Thanks a bunch. Looks like electric is the way to go to avoid all kids of issues. Now the big question: which ones are the current best of the best? I don't see any specific model numbers that are current (I cannot find the Wagner 01417210 anywhere now). Teh Wagner 01417005 is listed for about $55 now - is that a "good" one for this? And I guess a 1.5m tip is what I want, right? And advantage to going with a 1.0 instead or in addition to?

Learned last night that the timeline is pushed back by a week, so I have a little breathing room/time to get everything ready.

FYI- Gleem Paint in Gulfport, MS has the 2900 refurb for $49.99+ shipping. Here is a link if anyone needs it: http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

Thanks for the clarification and that link. I had the Graco number, but was looking for the Wagner numbers. CC and DD don't help much.

Timeline moved up again. Electric getting put in on Wed and the room will be ready for paint by next weekend. Now it's crunch time. Any suggestions on the part number for the 1.5 mm tip? Graco and Wagner, please. Is it the Earlex 1.5mm needle/tip?
Edited by scoob5555 - 2/23/13 at 7:09am

Tonight is the night, at least for priming with the Graco. Since my screen will be close to 12' diagonal MM helped me to create a method for me to be able to spray up almost 10 ft off the ground.

OK, figured out a solution using two of the contractor's portable scaffolds: put the board up about 5' and tied them together using a ratcheting tie-down for stability. That gives me a good height with only one short barrier to step over for the whole length. The only bad part is that I can only reach about top 1/2 of the screen. Then I have to climb down, push the scaffolds back and do the bottom 1/2. It's the best solution I could find and I just finished the first duster. I'll get the hang of doing it on the scaffolds after the next duster coat I hope. It's just awkward being up so high on a mostly stable, but still-wobbly platform while trying to be perfect. I'm doing really light coats, so I'm planning on probably 6-7 coats. That should give me time to figure out how to get it done the right way.

Finished for the night. Did 3 dusters then two heavier coats. I had one faux pas when my knee hit the hose and I looked down and didn't release the trigger, leaving me with a heavy spot by the time I realized what I'd done. So I had to wait for awhile while that dried and I sanded down to match the surrounding area. I had another minor incident when the hose disconnected from the gun right at the end of a row of the last coat. Some larger globs came out so I'll have to sand those down tomorrow. After this second heavier coat the screen is really taking shape and I can tell I'll like the finished product.

After I started the first heavier coat I realized that I had enough time while waiting for it to dry to start the other smaller screen ("only" 94" diag) that will be in the kids area with the old Epson TW100. I did a few duster layers on it on top of the old MMud formulation (I don't remember which at this point). It's going to take at least another two runs on it to get it up to where it should be, but I have enough paint still to make it for both screens barring some bizarre accident.

By the time I upped some of the ingredients to ensure I had enough for both screens, I think I'm spraying a SF 2.5 2.5 for these screens. The main room will be a dedicated home theater with completely controlled ambient lighting and a 20' throw for the Panasonic AE8000U projector. That screen will be around 140-144" diag. The kids room will have less light control but a much smaller viewing area and we can control the placement of the pj to ensure max lumens for the screen we have. It will mainly be used for gaming and occasional movies. I think the 2.5 2.5 will work well for both applications, though I had considered going lighter on the kids screen initially. The timing of everything for the theater, however, dictated that I needed the 2.5 3-ish paint first so I could ensure getting it on the wall before the rest of the room is painted. I would have liked to complete the screen tonight so I wouldn't need to worry about masking off the rest of the painted theater to finish the screens, but I got pinched with work, etc, so I'm only about 60% of the way there. Alas, it will have to be good enough for now. And the good news is that the paint and carpet are being scheduled now and we should have a complete room in the next few weeks (before Easter). Guess I need to start ordering the projector and new receiver so I have a system to run in the completed theater...

I think I have it completed. Did two more thicker coats tonight and it looks to be even and smooth. I'll wait for it to dry over night to see how it looks after drying. The main problem I have there is the amount of light available in the room since the lights aren't working yet. I only have my portable fluorescent I use for working on my cars.

I have one more coat for the kids screen and I think that'll be good, too. Time to order the projector!
Edited by scoob5555 - 3/8/13 at 6:12pm

Done. Ended up doing one more coat on both screens last night before going to bed. That makes 8 total for the main theater screen and I think 7 for the kids screen. Both look spectacular. No time this weekend to do any viewing using the old Epson TW100 pj, but I'll try next week sometime. I'm very happy to have the main screen finished before the painters come to do the rest of the theater. Next week should be a hive of activity with paint, carpet, finishing the HVAC, and the electric and lights.

Pics of the evolution of the theater so far.

Nice work there scoob. Same shade SF I did for my son and he loves his screen. Looking forward to some screen shots
Edited by rengep - 3/9/13 at 11:27am

Posted on a different thread asking questions about which SF to use etcetera. (Mississippi suggested 3.0 for a BenQ W1070 with 11' 7" of throw) Long story short put up my 107" x 60" 6mm sintra sheet using double sided 3m tape (stuff is great holds the sheet and if you need to take it down it peels right off the wall). I mixed my paint last night and shot four coats of 3.0 on my left over cut piece. Here are some screen shots you can see the painted section in the middle against the regular white sintra. I like the improvement in contrast and how it deals with ambient light but whites seem to have a blue push to them. Is this something that can be helped with calibration (Was going to wait until I shot the screen until I attempted a calibration) or is it a sign that the colorant was off?



The white water on the falls seems to have a blue tint. Over head lighting on full.



Lights at 30 percent. Lights off.



Shots to show skin tones with 3.0.



Crappy macro shot of screen piece, and a shot of it against the unpainted screen.

My only question is does everything look good? the color of the painted screen piece and so on?

Is the blueish tint just come with having the gray screen, or is it something that can be fixed? (I also have the 1mm needle on order I shot that piece with the 2mm that came with the Graco 2900)

Well Mississippi I did what you said and mixed in the 2 ounces of the MG with 4 ounces of water. Tried half first didn't see much difference, then tried the rest this is a screenshot of the results. On the bottom part of the test panel is the original mix for comparison on top the new with the MG added. The blue painters tape in the middle of the piece is the line between the two sections. To me it still looks like I am getting the blue tint the area with the white sintra seems to have a more natural skin tone. So what I need to know is do you think that what you did on that screen were you increased the UPW and the rustoleum would whiten up the mix and still show increased blacks and contrast? Or would the addition of the pearl be overload because of the extra MG that's already in the mix? The problem is that I only have about 6 ounces of the pearl left after doing the initial batch.

here in lies the issue...
the only way to get a fairer assessment of the situation to 'reverse' the sample with the larger sintra sheet...
otherwise for the most part all the medium to light colors of the spectrum will appear lighter on the white sintra as opposed to the smaller grey sample.
and we often equate lighter with brighter... and the same can be said of flesh tones.
take a second look at your mouth area of the girl in your sample above... and you see that what appears 'brighter' is really an unatural warm spotting...
so unless you reverse and recalibrate for the grey screen the situation 'may' never change.

understand this... more saturated colors by its very definition means that color is deepened. and in a comparison as you've done where the sintra is the predominate focus... the grey sample will always appear to have a greyer/blue tint...

but to make you feel much better about the what you are seeing...
my advice to you would be the use the entire 6oz of pearl you have and add it to the mix along with 3oz of UPW...
then you'll see a difference you can more appreciate... and wrap you mind around.

---

while it's not scientific... i wanted to get a better sense of where your mix was headed... without the blue tape line influencing my eyes.
so i did a little cropping and found that mm's initial suggestion is working in the right direction.
if you consider the skins tones of the 1st sample vs the sintra and the 2nd sample vs the sintra...
the skin tones on the sintra on top is lighter than the skin tones of the sintra of the bottom.
and yet the there is less greyish in the top sample vs the lighter skin tones on the top sintra then...
the more greyish on the bottom sample vs the slightly darker skin tones on the bottom sintra...
that would tell me that your mix is less grey/blue tint.

follow through with my mix suggestion... then spray away.
Edited by pb_maxxx - 3/13/13 at 11:32pm

Help needed! I made up a batch of SILVER FIRE v2.5 2.0 not too long ago, sprayed onto a freshly primed wall. After priming, I did notice a couple small imperfections from the mudding. I touched those up with more mud, resanded, and reprimed. Everything was looking good. Sprayed numerous very light coats of SF. After letting it dry for a couple days, I fired up the Mits HC4000 and on a bright white scene, I made note of a couple other spots that may have been sprayed thin. I sprayed an even coat again across the wall, but this time I am getting blisters in a 12" square! I sanded then all down, resprayed, and the blisters are all back again. How do I correct this? Thanks for any assistance.