Originally Posted by smokarz
thanks, i am anticipating your bass trap build.
Here's what I've got so far on my rear broadband bass traps.
Each stack is (6) sheets of 2" thick 2' x 4' OC705 panels, cut 24" x 24" x 34".
The 24 triangles stack just over 48" high, I've decided to make them removable "corner tables".
The base board mldg will be removed and cut down after these done, so it will look integrated nicely.
fwiw: I have some more....Star Trek stuff to display, the 3D chess set, some ST:TOS replica phaser and tricorder, etc, collected over 20+ years.
So, the top will be nice wood, while the bottom possible mdf or even some leftover OSB I have. The 1/2 thd rod comes in 72" size.
Now, above that display zone, which will get light w/o shadows via the sconces, will either be a 17" x 17" x 24" superchunk as shown on LH side, or a more visually pleasing triangular patch as shown on RH side, tbd.
Note: That Home Depot bag on the center table has (2) blue box AC gang boxes, I was going to move those sconces today fwd about 8" so I could have floor-ceiling "big" superchunks, but by putting a table top I've decided to not to do that.
(the boys and I watched a movie last night, sorry for the clutter)
For now, actually tonight while kids sleep, now is time for me to take room measurements with REW to see how the room has responded to these added bass treatments.
I'll post that in the Master Acoustics Thread for review there by the experts.
Until I take measurements, not sure if I should leave the room side of the superchunks open for mid-hi freq, or block them with cardboard (which will let the low freq still pass thru).
I'll take measurements with them open and just put a sheet of cardboard in front of each and re-take measurements.
Regarding cutting the superchunks out of the 2' x 4' sheets, I started with the big bread knife, did 4, then tried the electric turkey knife.
My experience, the manual knife was MUCH easier to get dead straight and perpendicular lines cut, the electric knife seemed to walk on its own slightly, giving a wavy edge, not style points.
Here you can see what I'm talking about.
The bottom 4 were cut by hand/bread knife, the next 4 by electric knife.
It's not that much more time for hand/bread knife, 1st pass with edge guide sets the line, then 4 more passes holding the knife at a low 15-20 degrees gives perfect straight and perpendicular edge.
I suppose a jig could be made to ensure the electric knife is straight and perpendicular, but this manual method worked for me easily.