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The official "Theta" thread - Page 207

post #6181 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post

Gracias--I appreciate it. 

I suppose more Kudos are in order for your write-up. If you have not done so, I'd paste it on Craigs Facebook page!

Theta can always use some good press along with their dealers!

I myself wrote what I thought was a good review but only pieces of it remain around the web when about the largest Theta thread ever was removed, along with all of the most helpful info one could find at the time regarding the CB-IIIHD.
post #6182 of 6789
I case you folks have not seen or heard, it looks like iRule went and figured out the code to enter into iRule or convert to another format the code for:
Dolby Digital,
DTS-MA,
Multi-Channel LPCM &
Dolby Digital True HD
for the Casablanca.

Bulldogger ran across it and since he has access to my iRule Builder, he snuck in there and added those codes to my "Sound Field" feedback.

Now, as always, if your using 2 way feedback from your Casablanca you get the default modes as usual but which were fairly useless to me as most inputs automatically change to one of the above formats which really then told me nothing, except where I started from. But all of that has changed!

Now it is great to look into the palm of your hand and see the movie's input change to DTS- MA or DirecTV change to Dolby Digital and so on. It's a great improvement over the already phenomenal amout of 2 way info available from the Casablanca.
Along with the "Sample Rate" feedback, which isn't even available on the Gen V-III's front panel, It's just about the most important feedbacks in my hand.

I also use:
Input #
Jack Type
Volume in both db & visual bar
Power on/off
Mute on/off
along with Sample Rate & Soundfields

Thanks once again to Bulldogger for locating the code and using me as his Guinea Pig, much appreciated cool.gif
Edited by bigbrother52 - 11/25/13 at 10:44am
post #6183 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbrother52 View Post


I suppose more Kudos are in order for your write-up. If you have not done so, I'd paste it on Craigs Facebook page!

Theta can always use some good press along with their dealers!

I myself wrote what I thought was a good review but only pieces of it remain around the web when about the largest Theta thread ever was removed, along with all of the most helpful info one could find at the time regarding the CB-IIIHD.

Thanks BigBrother52!  I'll go ahead and post that to Craig's FB page when I get home from the office.  There was more information available on the CB3HD? I wonder why it was removed.  Was it an AVS thread, or was it on another forum? I'd like to find it if I can, since reviews of the CB3HD are rare.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbrother52 View Post

I case you folks have not seen or heard, it looks like iRule went and figured out the code to enter into iRule or convert to another format the code for:
Dolby Digital,
DTS-MA,
Multi-Channel LPCM &
Dolby Digital True HD
for the Casablanca.

Bulldogger ran across it and since he has access to my iRule Builder, he snuck in there and added those codes to my "Sound Field" feedback.

Now, as always, if your using 2 way feedback from your Casablanca you get the default modes as usual but which were fairly useless to me as most inputs automatically change to one of the above formats which really then told me nothing, except where I started from. But all of that has changed!

Now it is great to look into the palm of your hand and see the movie's input or DirecTV change to DTS- MA or whatnot from whatever the default was!
A major improvement over the already phenomenal about of 2 way info available from the Casablanca.
Along with the "Sample Rate" feedback, which isn't even available on the Gen V-III's front panel, It's just about the most important feedbacks in my hand.

Thanks once again to Bulldogger for locating the code and using me as his Guinea Pig rolleyes.gif

 

what hardware are you using for iRule? I downloaded the app and software on my computer, but never took the next step of figuring out how to configure it after realizing I needed Wi-Fi-to-RS-232 devices.  Initially, I thought the iPad would control the gear over WiFi, since much of my gear is WiFi compatible, but this isn't the case.  If you could provide me with hte hardware you use, I'd go ahead and order what you're using (or other folks here with stable iRule CB3HD control), and would invest in learning iRule.  I currently use a Harmony 900, which I love.  But I know there's better out there.

post #6184 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post

Thanks BigBrother52!  I'll go ahead and post that to Craig's FB page when I get home from the office.  There was more information available on the CB3HD? I wonder why it was removed.  Was it an AVS thread, or was it on another forum? I'd like to find it if I can, since reviews of the CB3HD are rare.

Yeah it was like my only 2 threads, one from a couple of years before the release and one i started when it arrived here, during CES 2010 or 11, whatever 3 years ago was smile.gif and people were still reporting back from CES that it still wasn't available, yet here it sat!
The two threads were combined for awhile and then completely deleted, you won't find it here on AVS anymore. There was just too much politics involved, or so it seemed to me and we certainly won't get into what they could've been. Suffice to say, it's all gone, like history being rewritten and this new thread was created if you notice page one by a moderator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post

what hardware are you using for iRule? I downloaded the app and software on my computer, but never took the next step of figuring out how to configure it after realizing I needed Wi-Fi-to-RS-232 devices.  Initially, I thought the iPad would control the gear over WiFi, since much of my gear is WiFi compatible, but this isn't the case.  If you could provide me with hte hardware you use, I'd go ahead and order what you're using (or other folks here with stable iRule CB3HD control), and would invest in learning iRule.  I currently use a Harmony 900, which I love.  But I know there's better out there.

I use a Digi Portserver 16 which went for a little over $200 at the time on e-bay but many people had trouble upgrading the software of this discontinued piece which listed for around at least $2,500 when new. So I paid a few bucks more to a guy who gave a 90 day warranty, but had no trouble upgrading the software and with a bit of help around here it was up and running in no time.
The only other cost besides the iRule lic. were those cheapo 69 cent ethernet to RS-232 converters, which I do not recommend as they're fragile and need pins moved around inside which requires a cheap tool but it's a pain in the butt. For a system of this caliber, a real cable made by a manufacturer is really in order. The Portserver 16 can control of course 16 wired things as opposed to Digi's Portserver 8 which as it turns out was even more expensive then the 16 and uses a wall wart instead of the 16's internal power supply.

But you don't need this much sophisticated hardware if you're already ip controllable! I have 5 DirecTV HDDVR's I control via ip with iRule. And for the few things you have that are not ip controllable, I'd probabably just buy the plug and play stuff sold by iRule at about $100 that controls 1 or 2 things including one device made for things that only except ir. And you can now automate your lights and door locks, curtains and the list goes on.

Just be ready to spend several hundred hours for setting up your system, the more sophisticated it gets and the prettier you want it to be laid out the time can fly. And once your satisfied with what you've done, you'll find something else to add or change. It never really ends. But it sure can be satisfying, not to mention useful!
With my system so complicated now It literally takes me much though to change inputs now without this device.
post #6185 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbrother52 View Post


Thanks once again to Bulldogger for locating the code and using me as his Guinea Pig, much appreciated cool.gif
Irule copied most of the stuff I did for you. They added the DTS-MA, DD True HD and M-LPCM later. Les Aubre as always, helped too. I don't have a CB3HD so could not "sniff" those out with Docklight Scripting. Irule did tell me how to use Dock Light scripting and provided support as I worked the stuff out. The volume feedback was the hardest and could not be done until they added tokenizing. The Casablanca releases a long string of feedback numbers and then repeats the same string. How long the string is depends on what level of feedback you select. Tokenizing allows you to pick out exactly what "byte", the position of the number, that changes in value for feedback. For example, say the surround mode is the 5th number in a string of 12 numbers. The number changes depending on the mode selected. So the number at the 5th position, forget what position it actually is, tells you what mode you are in. The modes may have numbers from 02-15 or something.

Anyone who want's to use Irule should use the one I added that has BD2X in it because there are still some errors in what Irule has done. They have feedback wrong for a couple of the sample rates. I guessed at the sample rate codes and then had you test them to see if I had guessed correctly.Les gave one, 192Khz. You are as determined as I and we make a good team cool.gif . The RS232 control and feedback now for both the Casablanca HD and the Gen VIII are something we have never had for so cheap. Anyone with a smart phone or most of the tablets should be doing this. Feel free to contact me if any Casablanca owners need help.
post #6186 of 6789
I would like to know if Theta can increase the 0 - 100ms audio delay on the CB3HD to say at least 0 - 500ms which is desperately needed to cater for the 84inch LG & Sony 4K TVs (and possibly many others).
It is when watching only 3D that the Audio is ahead of the Video and even on the max 100ms setting the Theta cannot delay the Audio enough. I have the LG 84inch 4k and have spoken to LG tech dept at length and they admit that the delay is caused by the TV up scaling to 4K and that it only happens on 3D, however there is nothing THEY can do about it it seems.

All good AV pre/pro today offer at least 0 -500ms delay and some offer more.

Hopefully Theta can sort this out as at the moment 3D lip sync is pretty annoying, just like watching those awful dubbed Movies.

Any others here have a similar problem. If not now you more than likely will in the near future because 4K (and higher) is definitely fantastic, especially 3D with passive glasses,,, those active ones are absolutely useless compared to passive,, the picture is so much better wowwwww.
post #6187 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgwatt View Post

I would like to know if Theta can increase the 0 - 100ms audio delay on the CB3HD to say at least 0 - 500ms which is desperately needed to cater for the 84inch LG & Sony 4K TVs (and possibly many others).
It is when watching only 3D that the Audio is ahead of the Video and even on the max 100ms setting the Theta cannot delay the Audio enough. I have the LG 84inch 4k and have spoken to LG tech dept at length and they admit that the delay is caused by the TV up scaling to 4K and that it only happens on 3D, however there is nothing THEY can do about it it seems.

All good AV pre/pro today offer at least 0 -500ms delay and some offer more.

Hopefully Theta can sort this out as at the moment 3D lip sync is pretty annoying, just like watching those awful dubbed Movies.

Any others here have a similar problem. If not now you more than likely will in the near future because 4K (and higher) is definitely fantastic, especially 3D with passive glasses,,, those active ones are absolutely useless compared to passive,, the picture is so much better wowwwww.

100ms was a safe value as most displays have two frames or less of delay. That's 66ms at 60hz or 88ms at 24hz. But it seems like your 4K up converter is more which is not surprising. Theta may not be able to deepen the physical memory required for more delay. Sometimes you can allocate more memory at the expense of other audio processing features and sometimes not. It depends on the digital architecture.

There are outboard delay units made, a few consumer and then you get into pro units. Any delay unit with that much delay uses a digital delay engine. So an "analog" unit actually has an AtoD and DtoA inside. That's not ideal in a high end system.

Rane makes a two channel analog I/O unit for about $700. It's pretty transparent.
post #6188 of 6789
^^ When the display is connected by HDMI, the A-V sync offsets are compensated in the source device -- the BD player. If you take the audio from a different output, like S/PDIF or analog, it will not be compensated.

LG's responsibility is to properly encode the EDID latency info the TV sends back to the source.

Normally speaking. YMMV.

I understand a Lumagen Radiance processor can also adjust AV sync.
Edited by Roger Dressler - 11/26/13 at 3:52pm
post #6189 of 6789
Bigbrother52, I just read about the iRule builder and the sound fields. I'm an iRule user with the Casablanca.....and I'm using RS232, and feedback's. But I'd love to know what Bulldogger did, or where he found those codes...so I can add them to my builder as well?

Always nice to be able to have more control...and I'm a fan of iRule!

Also...I'm looking into a power conditioner with IP control. I've been looking at Torus AVR2, but it's over $4000. Today I found a Panamax M4315 Pro...with IP and BlueBolt control. I just don't know if that's a good enough 'fit' with my Theta gear? I called and it's a grounded unit, with high current imputs for amps....just wondering if anyone knows about that piece? Thanks, Joe
post #6190 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post

Bigbrother52, I just read about the iRule builder and the sound fields. I'm an iRule user with the Casablanca.....and I'm using RS232, and feedback's. But I'd love to know what Bulldogger did, or where he found those codes...so I can add them to my builder as well?
Always nice to be able to have more control...and I'm a fan of iRule!

Read bulldoggers post 1685 to have your questions answered about how the new codes came to be written and found.

I'm not entirely clear as to whether you just require the Casablanca's feedbacks or would like a few additional Casablanca device commands.

In case you are only looking for just what feedbacks are available,

From iRule builder page Click on Browse and click Feedback. When the search box opens in iRule, click on the "Community" Tab.
For Type, select "Receiver/Preamps" - For Manufacturer, Fill in "Theta Digital" - For Model, Fill in "Casablanca" - For Type, click RS-232 and hit search.
I just gave Bulldoggers Feedback 5 Stars and a one line review saying "it's the best anywhere on iRule" so it should stick out among the one or two others.

It's called "Theta Casablanca III BD2x- Tokenized" This is the one you definitely want to use.

If you are not already using iRule for controlling you're Casablanca you'll first need the Device Codes. Most of the ones you'll find are just copies of Bulldoggers and most have errors of one sort or another, so one of your safest bets is to choose Bulldoggers Device, which you search for in the same fashion as described above except you choose "Devices" After you click "Browse" and fill the rest in the same as above.

But here you'll find 3 Devices to choose from at the moment, so make sure you get either Bulldoggers "Theta Casablanca RS-232 Bull D" or my "Theta Casablanca RS-232 Bigbro"

Mine is also a copy of Bulldoggers but I added a few commands mostly from what would be the 2nd Balance page of the Casablanca IIIHD now but are found in other versions of the Casablanca as well, which you may or may not want to use, included in my version are additional codes such as:
Center Level Up/Down - 2 buttons required on your page
Subwoofer levels Up/Down - 2 buttons required on your page.
EQ Button, a command which cycles through the EQ Button from "Off-1-2-3-4-Off and the other "Off-4-3-2-1-Off" - 1 button required on your page
My version also gives you the option to use 1 or 2 buttons for Power On and Off
It also gives you a 2 button option to Mute On and Mute Off or a single button to Mute and have the Mute Released by hitting Vol. Up or Vol. Down

There is no additional Feedbacks available At the moment for the extra commands in my version of Casablanca III Devices. You'd need to see your CB-III display, or use your ears.

I also see that the 3rd Casablanca Device was made available by jstrossner here who shared his CB-III device code, but he'd have to let us know if it's a copy of another version or if he changed anything from Bulldoggers Device code like I did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post

...I'm looking into a power conditioner with IP control. I've been looking at Torus AVR2, but it's over $4000. Today I found a Panamax M4315 Pro...with IP and BlueBolt control. I just don't know if that's a good enough 'fit' with my Theta gear? I called and it's a grounded unit, with high current imputs for amps....just wondering if anyone knows about that piece? Thanks, Joe

I am not up to snuff on Power Conditioners with external control other then the ones with AC or 12v DC triggers.
Edited by bigbrother52 - 11/27/13 at 2:11pm
post #6191 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post


You are as determined as I and we make a good team cool.gif .

I would never have gotten as far as I have in using iRule without your help and infinite patience.

Let alone be able to write some of my own code for the Casablanca as well as for a couple of other devices, for which I was already too embarrassed to ask for even more help.

All of the credit for this so called "team" goes to you alone! smile.gif
post #6192 of 6789
I'm using iRule...but was using another device code and another for feedback...so I will change that to yours! Thanks so much for the advice, and the info.
post #6193 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post

I'm using iRule...but was using another device code and another for feedback...so I will change that to yours! Thanks so much for the advice, and the info.

Well, as a team with bulldogger, I guess I should say it's our pleasure smile.gif

But if you run into a problem, PM him rolleyes.gif

Just to be clear, you do require 1 set for Feedback and the another for Devices

Good Luck
post #6194 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbrother52 View Post

I also see that the 3rd Casablanca Device was made available by jstrossner here who shared his CB-III device code, but he'd have to let us know if it's a copy of another version or if he changed anything from Bulldoggers Device code like I did.

I cannot take credit for the device and feedback settings.
The settings and feedback files were given to me by John, aka jjwinterberg, the beginning of this year.
He was very helpful not only with the software side of iRule, but also got me straightened out on the RS232 connection to IP control.

Jeff
post #6195 of 6789
I just added the following to my Theta "review" post, a summary of the CBIII HD's setup help to save present and future owners some headache. Anyone pls correct as needed.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Recommended settings: The CBIII HD has certain Theta-specific "conventions" (aka idiosyncrasies :-)) that new users might want to know about; I will attempt to summarize and give some recommendations for basic setup here that is not in the manual.

1. Audio settings for Oppo 93 bluray player:
HDMI Audio: bitstream
Toslink and Coax/RCA: bitstream
SACD: LPCM

A brief review of bitstream vs. LPCM: To convert the bluray disc's raw audio data to an analog audio signal requires a 2 step process. In step 1, bitstream, the raw data (like a zip file) is unpacked/unzipped to become LPCM signal. In step 2, this LPCM signal is converted to analog audio signal by a DA converter. When you select LPCM out in the Oppo, you are telling the Oppo to do the unzipping of step 1; conversely, when you select bitstream out in the Oppo, you are feeding the raw signal to Theta CB and tell it to do the unzipping. Although the audio quality is the same between bitstream and LPCM, specifically for our Theta, whether you feed it LPCM or bitstream does have consequences related to idiosyncratic convention that the CBIII HD follows.

Some old DAC like my 1990's Theta Basic causes loud white noise when given bitstream Dolby digital signal, if this is the case switch Toslink/Coax/RCA digital out to LPCM or you're going to fry your speakers accidentally.

2. Theta audio "conventions" The CBIII HD has certain idiosyncratic rules that it follows as far as how to process specific types of signal that it is receiving. Read and understand the following to save yourself headache later; every CBIII's behavior will make sense then.

1. CBIII HD post-processes (creates surround and center channel, etc.) *ALL* stereo and 2-channel signals, whether it is LPCM or bitstream, and whether it comes from a CD music, SACD 2 channel music, a DVD movie (Dolby Digital 2 channel for example), or a bluray movie. That's why you have to following the specific setting in 3 below (the Matrix setting) if you don't want to hear this processing. There is a reason for this but I won't cause further confusion by trying to explain here.

2. Conversely, CBIII HD uses a different convention when fed 5.1 channel signal. Here, if Theta is given LPCM 5.1 signal, it doesn't post process, but... if it is given bitstream 5.1 signal, it *will* post process. This becomes relevant for those with 7.1 speaker system: If you want Theta to post process a 5.1 movie to 7.1 using Dolby PLIIx, you have to set your Oppo to bitstream out. If you set Oppo to HDMI LPCM out, this post processing to 7.1 will not occur.

So... with all that in mind, here are some suggestions (anyone pls correct as needed):

3. How to set up for stereo vs. SACD vs. movie
1. Stereo/2 channel signal:
You need to set the Theta CBIII's default mode to Matrix, not Stereo, (and don't ask why, "idiosyncrasy") and then go through CBIII's speaker setup and turn off all speakers (surround, center, and subwoofer), and only leave for the main Left and main Right speaker active. This is the only way to listen to stereo music with Thetat CBIII HD.

2. SACD:
a. Multichannel: no further special setup needed.
One side note: With my Oppo 93, you do have to let the Oppo know whether you want to hear the multichannel or stereo version of each SACD - a pain in the neck if you are switching this constantly. For example, if you don't specify in Oppo that you want multi-channel out, the Oppo feeds Theta 2 channel SACD, and Theta then processes this 2 channel SACD to 5.1; as a result in this scenario, you hear 5.1 channel but it is NOT SACD original 5.1, it is Theta processing of SACD 2.0 (I hope I am making sense and not wrong here :-)).
b. 2 channel: Use CBIII "Matrix" setup in A above.

3. Movies with Dolby or DTS:
Nothing special to do. Those with 7.1 speaker systems just make sure Oppo's HDMI out is set to bitstream so you could use PLIIx 7.1 post processing.

4. For Advanced/Nutty :-) User: From this discussion: CLICK here.
Behavior of CBIII HD when in PLIIx 7.1 mode (stereo vs. mono rear).
Using Toy Story 2 Bluray, chapter 01:57 to 01:59 jet wash sound.

A. Dolby Digital 5.1 Ex, in French or Spanish language: CBIII generates Dolby PLIIx 7.1 extra rear speakers in MONO.
B. English DTS Master Audio 5.1 ES: CBIII HD generates Dolby PLIIx 7.1 und the same, with some sound effect appearing in one or the other speaker. *Seems* like 7.1. IOW true stereo for surround rears L & R.

Per sdurani: 2 chipsets in Theta: the new chipset only handles the new HD audio codecs, while the old decoding chip continues to handle the legacy codecs. Apparently it doesn't just apply to decoding, but processing as well. Looks like the legacy codecs (DD, DTS) are processed by the version of PLIIx that is in the old chip while the newer codecs (TrueHD, DTS-HD MA) are processed by the version of PLIIx in the new chipset.

Per Roger Dressler: The only 6.1 that PLIIx can make into 7.1 is a matrix encoded (EX, ES) mix. It cannot do anything with 6.1 discrete

5. How to convert Theta's balanced/XLR output to single ended/RCA

The CBIII HD's XLR output is a non-floating design, and pin 3 should not be connected to pin 1 (shorted to ground). In other words:

Pin 1 of XLR goes to RCA outer collar (ground)
Pin 2 of XLR goes to center tip of RCA
Pin 3 of XLR stays un-connected

I believe that most if not all XLR to RCA adapters on the market connect pin 3 to pin 1, which as Roger has mentioned is ok but not ideal as it causes the op amp driving pin 3 to heat up unnecessarily. So if you have one of these, you might want to consider disconnecting this link from 3 to 1.
Edited by cannga - 12/1/13 at 10:04am
post #6196 of 6789
So...

Anyone have a CBIV yet? Anyone's in for upgrade?

Everything on schedule?

Inquiring minds want to know! biggrin.gif
post #6197 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by 777BigAnt777 View Post

So...

Anyone have a CBIV yet? Anyone's in for upgrade?

Everything on schedule?

Inquiring minds want to know! biggrin.gif

So close I can taste it !!!

Realistically we should be starting the upgrades on December 16th in limited numbers.

Things are going very well and if nothing changes between now and then we should be ahead of what I thought was going to be end of year or first few weeks of January.

Get on board my friend

Craig
post #6198 of 6789
The only thing that sucks is that December upgrades are factory only. For those of us that need to be sent an "upgrade kit" it will be January. Craig, I'll take my kit in FL on the 2nd - you gotta figure that one out for me buddy...
post #6199 of 6789
Star Trek Into Darkness + Theta = OMG! As a die hard Trek fan, I was very disappointed with the plot and not so impressed with the casting, but wow the sound. 7.1 glorious HD channels tongue.gif. Incredible "ambient/atmospheric" and sound effect, and of course this being a spaceship, jaw dropping subterranean bass that shook the floor of my house. Again as with many recent BD, no harshness and totally 3D soundstage up front.

Even if you are (unfortunately :-)) not a Star Trek fan, check this disc out if you haven't, and sit back and be blasted away to explore new. sound frontiers.

Heart warming to see talented movie sound engineers that seemingly are competing to outdo each other, just as mainstream music quality is becoming shiittier by the days, a result of a generation of music lovers raised on MP3 Ipod's $5 ear bud.
post #6200 of 6789
Craig...drop me a line about the upgrade to IV. I see the buzz about a possible start date soon. I'm sure you have a list...I just want to be on it...and to get my wallet ready! Let me know options....Joe
post #6201 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post

Star Trek Into Darkness + Theta = OMG! As a die hard Trek fan, I was very disappointed with the plot and not so impressed with the casting, but wow the sound. 7.1 glorious HD channels tongue.gif. Incredible "ambient/atmospheric" and sound effect, and of course this being a spaceship, jaw dropping subterranean bass that shook the floor of my house. Again as with many recent BD, no harshness and totally 3D soundstage up front.

Even if you are (unfortunately :-)) not a Star Trek fan, check this disc out if you haven't, and sit back and be blasted away to explore new. sound frontiers.

Heart warming to see talented movie sound engineers that seemingly are competing to outdo each other, just as mainstream music quality is becoming shiittier by the days, a result of a generation of music lovers raised on MP3 Ipod's $5 ear bud.

 

Star Trek Into Darkness was the first movie I broke in my Theta CB3HD with, followed by Man of Steel.  That was a very very good weekend. :D 

post #6202 of 6789
Hey everyone,

Anyone in the Atlanta, GA area with the Casablanca 3 hd? I'm thinking of swapping out my 2 week old mcintosh mx121 processor for the theta. Is it worth the upgrade? My system consists of Martin Logan Spire's for fr and fl, stage x center, electromotion fx2 surrounds and svs sb13 ultra subwoofer. I have the mcintosh mx121 processor, mcintosh mc8207 amp which I biamp my spires with(only 5.1 system) Oppo bdp-103 Blu-ray Player, furman elite 15pfi, jvc x55 projector, and DNP Supernova 2.3 gain 120" Screen.
post #6203 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by jslaw81 View Post

Hey everyone,

Anyone in the Atlanta, GA area with the Casablanca 3 hd? I'm thinking of swapping out my 2 week old mcintosh mx121 processor for the theta. Is it worth the upgrade? My system consists of Martin Logan Spire's for fr and fl, stage x center, electromotion fx2 surrounds and svs sb13 ultra subwoofer. I have the mcintosh mx121 processor, mcintosh mc8207 amp which I biamp my spires with(only 5.1 system) Oppo bdp-103 Blu-ray Player, furman elite 15pfi, jvc x55 projector, and DNP Supernova 2.3 gain 120" Screen.

Josh ,

Interesting little post.

I like the plan of action.

It was a pleasure speaking with you today and hopefully you can find a nice home for the Mac and get on board with the CB3HD/CB4.. We would love to have you in our Circle.

Thanks
Craig
post #6204 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post

Craig...drop me a line about the upgrade to IV. I see the buzz about a possible start date soon. I'm sure you have a list...I just want to be on it...and to get my wallet ready! Let me know options....Joe

Joe, The Buzz is like a Huge Hive of bees that you just hit with a bat..

We are really close my friend.

I am around all day thurs afternoon if you have a moment.

Thanks
Craig
post #6205 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbrother52 View Post

I use a Digi Portserver 16 which went for a little over $200 at the time on e-bay but many people had trouble upgrading the software of this discontinued piece which listed for around at least $2,500 when new. So I paid a few bucks more to a guy who gave a 90 day warranty, but had no trouble upgrading the software and with a bit of help around here it was up and running in no time.
The only other cost besides the iRule lic. were those cheapo 69 cent ethernet to RS-232 converters, which I do not recommend as they're fragile and need pins moved around inside which requires a cheap tool but it's a pain in the butt. For a system of this caliber, a real cable made by a manufacturer is really in order. The Portserver 16 can control of course 16 wired things as opposed to Digi's Portserver 8 which as it turns out was even more expensive then the 16 and uses a wall wart instead of the 16's internal power supply.

But you don't need this much sophisticated hardware if you're already ip controllable! I have 5 DirecTV HDDVR's I control via ip with iRule. And for the few things you have that are not ip controllable, I'd probabably just buy the plug and play stuff sold by iRule at about $100 that controls 1 or 2 things including one device made for things that only except ir. And you can now automate your lights and door locks, curtains and the list goes on.

Just be ready to spend several hundred hours for setting up your system, the more sophisticated it gets and the prettier you want it to be laid out the time can fly. And once your satisfied with what you've done, you'll find something else to add or change. It never really ends. But it sure can be satisfying, not to mention useful!
With my system so complicated now It literally takes me much though to change inputs now without this device.
I don't recommend the Digi Portserver for most. It's a hassle to set-up. The Bland helped me with mine. The quickest and easiest way to get up and running with a standard DB9 cable is http://www.globalcache.com/products/itach/wf2slspecs/ . It's not much more expensive. Actually at retail the iTach is cheaper than the Digi Portserver. You can make a backup of your file and save it to your computer from the Irule Builder. I am assuming you can send that file to someone else. I guess that would be the easiest way to get another person up and running. They could just then delete the stuff from your file that did not need.
post #6206 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post

I don't recommend the Digi Portserver for most. It's a hassle to set-up. The Bland helped me with mine. The quickest and easiest way to get up and running with a standard DB9 cable is http://www.globalcache.com/products/itach/wf2slspecs/ . It's not much more expensive. Actually at retail the iTach is cheaper than the Digi Portserver. You can make a backup of your file and save it to your computer from the Irule Builder. I am assuming you can send that file to someone else. I guess that would be the easiest way to get another person up and running. They could just then delete the stuff from your file that did not need.

If you want to save a few bucks you can get these old model global cache units, selling for $50 on eBay - they have 2 RS232 ports, and another 6 IR ports. Only restriction is they do not support the higher buad rates, but if you're running at 9600 you should be OK. Using one myself with no problem.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=globalcache&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC2.A0.Xglobal+cache&_nkw=global+cache&_sacat=0
post #6207 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post

Craig...drop me a line about the upgrade to IV. I see the buzz about a possible start date soon. I'm sure you have a list...I just want to be on it...and to get my wallet ready! Let me know options....Joe

Craig's customers would probably have their particular concerns more easily addressed on Facebook on the TheaterMax Customer page.


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post #6208 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by edorr View Post

If you want to save a few bucks you can get these old model global cache units, selling for $50 on eBay - they have 2 RS232 ports, and another 6 IR ports. Only restriction is they do not support the higher buad rates, but if you're running at 9600 you should be OK. Using one myself with no problem.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=globalcache&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC2.A0.Xglobal+cache&_nkw=global+cache&_sacat=0
Theta changed the RS232 protocol for the Casablanca HD to 9600. I'm not sure if that's recommended or the only rate now supported. That's a great deal on Ebay if you only have a couple of RS232 devices.
post #6209 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post

Theta changed the RS232 protocol for the Casablanca HD to 9600. I'm not sure if that's recommended or the only rate now supported. That's a great deal on Ebay if you only have a couple of RS232 devices.

It will work fine with the CBIII at 9600. I am also using two IR ports for my Oppo and Satellite receiver. However, for RS232 on my NAD M51 I needed a separate current model IP to RS232 single port unit, because it runs at high baud rate.

Other caveat is the iRule client (running in iPad) did not autodetect it as a gateway, but manual entry of IP address solved that problem.
post #6210 of 6789
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbrother52 View Post

I guess I'll have to do for now. when VGI shows up he may give you more ideas but I use it mostly for DirecTV and DVD & Blu-Ray, any kind of multi-channel movie or show really because about 80% or more of the content generally shows up in the center channel speaker but your best speakers are usually the front left and right.

My manuals instructions for the setting of the Center Spread feature are hopelessly wrong for the CB-IIIHD, the instructions below are correct.
The manuals explanation of what Center Spread does is correct although I've edited and reworded that in part here as well.
If you follow the directions below exactly then you too should easily be able to set the Center Spread feature.
Do this one input at a time, one Center Spread digit at a time until your front soundstage sounds like you want it to for the selected input.
The results can be quite dramatic and amazing, game changing in fact! There can be a "REAL" night and day difference by using the Center Spread feature, if used correctly.
It basically stretches the center speaker across the entire front soundstage making it seem larger without having the center channel blaring at your head and without losing effects from the left/right or center speakers.
The smaller the size and lower the quality of your center channel speaker, the bigger the impact this feature will make to your front soundstage, but it will still have a tremendous impact even with three identical speakers.

Center Spread

This parameter adjusts the mix between the center speaker and the front left/right speakers.
The higher the value, the more center channel level is reduced in the center speaker and added into the front left/right speakers.
A value of 0-15 can be assigned to Center Spread. If the value assigned is 15, then all of the center channel information would be routed to the front left/right speakers. In this case, it would be the same as phantoming the center speaker.

Center Spread is a post process activated in the POST PROCESS submenu.
Go to Post Process, which is on Page 3 in the Setup Submenu (Press Setup Button -> Press Button 1 = INP -> Press A/D Button -> Press Button 4 = Post Process) and turn the Center Spread feature on by pressing button 5, then back out of all Menu's.
The front panel will indicate that Center Spread is active but it will not indicate it's value here, you'll find a SPRED indication light just right of center next to Dolby Digital or DTS etc. and left of the volume indication.

The range of Center Spread (0-15) is set in the 2ND PAGE of the BALANCE Sub-Menu.
Press Balance Button -> Press A/D Button -> Press Button 5, adjust with volume Up & Down buttons to taste.
This is the only place where you will be able to see what the value of the Center Spread setting is.

Edit: Tip - If you like the effect of Center Spread on the left and right channels but find the center channel has now become lower then you'd like, you may find it advantageous to raise the Center Channel Volume Level of any particular input in which you've activated Center Spread. You may do this by increasing the inputs Center Level Volume adjust and raise the overall Center Channel Level, or just adjust the DD Center Channel Level adjust and or DTS Center Channel Level adjust just a bit.



Try it you'll like it, and it will become one of your favorite features too smile.gif

Bigbrother52, thanks for the spot on instruction and detailed explanation. I will add it to my setup help post; in fact have printed it and added to my Theta manual.

It comes in handy as my main center channel needs servicing and am using a much smaller speaker now. Will report my finding once I've gained some experience. Seems to be a very useful feature.
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