Glasses Buyers Guide - (Samsung DLP LED Legacy Sets)

Great effort!

Just to give you another data point - I tried out SSG-2200AB glasses from the Mitsubishi 3D kit and the red tint in the blacks was very very noticeable.

To me, it was a bigger issues than any rainbows from UC DLP glasses.

Also, I recall a post about UC IR glasses that said that they blocked the DLP flash signal, and as a result had great blacks with no sync issues.

I dont agree with the Samsung SSG-2200AB glasses not having sync issues

I disagree with CE5 having synch issues. They hold synch better than Optoma, Viewsonic, and UC DLP Link glasses for me personally. All work great in no light or low light conditions. Only CE5's hold link steady in bright conditions with my setup. My $.02

I don't agree with the Samsung SSG-2100AB having any sync issues with a proper emitter setup. Mine hold sync from 25 feet away in the next room over without issue. From 12 feet away, they hold sync even when I turn my head to talk to the person next to me.

You are talking about while looking through the glasses? I've heard many people complain about this but I just don't see it on my LED engine Samsung, even though I'm looking for it. Maybe there's a very slight tint when not looking through the glasses, but who cares? When I'm looking through the glasses the blacks look normal, as do the rest of the colors. I keep wondering if this is a calibration issue, but can't get anybody who sees this to try my calibration settings and report back if it makes a difference.

Mode: Movie
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 44
Sharp: 20
Color: 45
Tint: G49/R51
Color Tone: Normal
Size: Just Scan
Digital NR: Auto
DNIE: off
Active Color: off
Color Gamut: Normal

Detailed Settings Menu:
Black adjust: off
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Gamma: 0
White Balance: 0
Edge Enhancement: off

Why pay less when you can pay most.....? Monster of course. They seem pretty cool though with the features and look. "Faster" for more brightness? RF rather than IR. Didn't see any contrast spec.

http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=5938

The glasses the come with the Kits kit are the 2100ab glasses not the 2200 glasses- they use batteries. They are quite good. I have the plugged into my HL61A750 and my HL67A750. I keep the emitter on top of the set and never had a sync issue even up to 25 feet away. Their is a slight red tint when the screen is totally black, but it is not noticeable when viewing any content.

Oops, you are right. I have the 2100ab glasses, not the 2200. I'll fix my posts. Nickels needs to fix the spreadsheet, too!

The Monster glasses someone pointed out on the projector forum include an emitter which is pictured. My bad actually for not reading well that this group of glasses you've compiled is for the legacy DLP sets. These may not work in DLP link mode....don't know. Maybe should not be included?

Yes, that's right the 2100AB are what comes in the current Mits and Samsung 3D starter kits. I have both and this is what's printed on the inside of the frames.

My take is that any sync issues reported with these glasses are caused by poor emitter location, and/or very significant stray sunlight. I have my Mits kit emitter above the TV, on top of the entertainment center and it blasts IR everywhere, causing the glasses to sync even when I'm not facing the emitter, when there is filtered daylight coming through my blinds, and even when I'm in the adjoining kitchen 25 feet away. Based on my experience it's just hard for me to believe that someone could have issues under normal viewing conditions.

Also note that many people using these glasses (and the 2200s) are using them with newer LCD sets. Those sets have built-in emitters and in Samsung's wisdom they mounted the emitters on the BOTTOM bezel. Clearly not optimal location. I think that does cause sync issues.

Rainbow is only associated for RP DLP. FP will not encounter such issue. Therefore the criteria/attributes will change based on implementation.

You also would like your glasses to be robust/sturdy. Don't want to pay $60-150 for something that will break after a few use. Viewsonic owners may have more to say about that.

I do agree that UC's are best for value/$. Hope the second/third generation design cycle glasses can bring much more value/$ in the future.

Ooops I thought I was in a different thread when I posted this. Sorry about that

Tonight we will highly scrutinize the different atributes using them in the theater -vs- in the living with the DLP RP. I have not noticed any rainbows on it yet, but I have only had the dlp rp a week or so.

Seems really great on the x102's overall.

I had assumed that the emitters the guys are bringing over will hook up just fine. Of course I don't have my 3D-XL yet, so the theater is going to be limited to the 3D Vision and DLP link glasses.

I hope this isn't a dumb question but how does the contrast spec on the brands of glasses that give it, affect final contrast up on the screen from say a good contrast projector. I know this is DLP sets, but same question there as the LED 61A750 I believe is rated at 10,000 to 1 with some kind of mechanism (?).

But most of these glasses are really low in contrast. Don't most that report it get like 1,000 to 1, yet people report the JVCs look terrific in 3D much better than in theaters with the "black" levels. So do you still somehow wind up with better 3D contrast on the Sammy DLP and the good projectors than what the glasses are capable of?

Isn't one of these pairs rated at 5,000 to 1? All other things equal then such as speed and brightness, is that the pair of glasses with likely a (much?) better picture?

As a for instance I found this link from mid last year on Toshiba flat panel and glasses tech. They are talking 5,000 to 1 vs typical 1,000 to 1. But in most discussions of which glasses to buy of the "active" technology though, contrast specifically seems no more considered than any of many other parameters..... comfort, build quality, cost, battery performance, etc, etc......that are important for individual consideration.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/monitor...D_Glasses.html

"Toshiba’s active-shutter stereo 3D glasses boast with 0.1ms (open to close/decay) and 1.8ms (close to open/rise) response speed, whereas many competing solutions declare 0.3ms and 3.7ms speeds, or even 2ms “typical” response time. Toshiba’s OCB LCD technology enables 5000:1 contrast ratio when viewed perpendicular to the display and 1000:1 at a viewing angle of 30°, while competing shutter glasses come with 1000:1 “typical” contrast ratio."

For best performance then should I be looking first for contrast and speed, and then among the brands that can offer that narrowing it down with all the other attributes? Are 5,000 to 1 or higher glasses going to always look better with high contrast displays than lower contrast pairs if all else is equal?

I have two pair of each and both work but the Viewsonics work on my Mitsu set when out put is set to forward or reverse mode, the Optoma's only work in reverse mode.

I have my own theory that a batch of Viewsonics were made with the wrong type of plastic. Just a hunch, because mine have had abuse by some children, and can be wiggled quite a bit with no sign of even the slightest crack. I am guessing some were made with a more brittle polymer.

But the new viewsonics with folding frames will fix that.

All my content (Imax movies and Avatar) look spectacular with the Viewsonics and I notice no artifacts. They are big and stupid looking though, and not rechargeable.

Respectfully, are my questions right above about how important contrast ratio is in active glasses, in comparison to their many other attributes that buyers purchase for....actually indeed "dumb" or no one has an opinion or knows?

Many displays and projectors' main marketing campaigns are built with their contrast specs front and center. It "seems" to me but I'm honestly asking shouldn't we always start first with the highest contrast rated glasses? And then narrow down?

Just remember that glasses perform differently on different sets. For instance, on my HLT5687S I have absolutely zero red tint using the 2100 glasses in the starter kit... I have also had zero luck with DLP Link glasses. Food for thought.

I for one will continue to subscribe to this thread! Keep up the good work nickels55.

This is my experience on the 6187s as well.

In 3d mode without glasses my set has absolutely no tinting to it what so ever... which is why I believe I've had issues with DLP Link in the past. I'm not sure if this is a "defect" with my set or not... "defect" being a loose term.

I'm not sure if they "remove" the red tint or not as my set doesn't exhibit this feature. Having said that though, the picture quality with these glasses is fantastic and I've never had a single sync issue - I literally have to leave the room and face an opposite corner to get them to lose synch. Turning your head or having someone walk in front of you has absolutely no effect synch wise.

The one problem I have with these is that you can see reflections of what's behind you in the corners of the lenses. I believe this is due to them being manufactured to fit over prescription glasses. If the glasses had a tighter closer fit, they'd be pretty much perfect.

The design isn't overly flimsy and I still haven't had to replace the batteries going on several months now...