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Glasses Buyers Guide - (Samsung DLP LED Legacy Sets) - Page 5

post #121 of 148
9/23/11 at 3:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

If there is no DLP Link to block then your set shouldn't have a distinct tint to it in 3D mode. If that is the case IR glasses should work fine, as the non-black blacks are my biggest issue with them.

What's more noticeable is I get reflection/glare with the 2100AB.

JD said the X103 has the same problem. So I'm now down to two it seems.

Anyone notice reflection/glare with the NXG or the 2200AR Samsung glasses?
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post #122 of 148
9/26/11 at 10:17am
my set only has a very light tint to it. it doesn't look as strongly as that guy in the video posted somewhere in here? would I be better off getting the nxg ones?
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post #123 of 148
9/26/11 at 11:31am
Any reviews on glasses for Sharp TVs?
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post #124 of 148
1/20/12 at 8:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by knobby View Post

i have a hlt5687s model and tried dlp link glasses with no success at all.the ones with the emitter and glasses work excellent.purchased from 3d heaven.some people experience different results from the same model of tv.i also have no noticeable red tint.

Curious in your case, when you switched to 3d mode, did you get the red tint? I'm having similar issues, at least with a chinese version from ebay (dlp-link), they just dont work.

Background: i have a htpc with an i3-540 cpu, intel hd graphics for video.. tmt v5.2.. i've tried youtube 3d, stereoscopic player and tmt 5.. all show the blurry image 3d effect, put glasses on, they try to sync no luck. My set is the HLT-6187S (i know many said they have dlp link working with this model, but maybe it differs person to person?) I dont have any drivers installed on the HTPC for 3d.. it was my understanding that tmt or youtube, would automatically send a checkerboard signal to the tv.

So many said try the ultra clears from 3dheaven on here.. i'd prefer a set that had recharge ability.. but at this point ill take what can work (however, i'm not sure how their return policy is, compared to amazon which is easy)

As many have said, this is getting confusing because it seems to be a per person experience.. maybe based on tv settings or other conditions that result in good quality experiences as well? (one of the biggest stumbling blocks with 3d, besides lack of content, user friendly plug n play ability etc).

So i was considering trying the dlp-link ultra clears, but i'm not convinced they will even work (*has anyone had one pair of dlp-link work and another that didnt.. anyone found tv settings can affect the ability to pick up the dlp-link? fyi, my computer settings have it at 60hz, so i'm sure its not that).

I was considering going ebay for the ssg-1000's, but if i find that one pair looks great, ill probably want to get 3-5 total pairs and that could be a painful process, beyond expense...*i dont get a good sense that you can mix these IR ones.

*On the NXG technology, which one is the right set here.. and what emitter, as i dont see one that comes with an emitter?

*If i go with ultra clear 3d glasses IR variety.. are these the glasses and this the emitter?

These 3 models appear to be the front runners from what i can tell.. whether or not i will see rainbows, or i will still see red tint with the ir ones, remains to be seen.
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post #125 of 148
1/20/12 at 9:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1969iggy View Post

Any reviews on glasses for Sharp TVs?

If your Sharp TV happens to be a Samsung DLP, then you are in the correct thread.
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post #126 of 148
1/20/12 at 9:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Curious in your case, when you switched to 3d mode, did you get the red tint? I'm having similar issues, at least with a chinese version from ebay (dlp-link), they just dont work.

Background: i have a htpc with an i3-540 cpu, intel hd graphics for video.. tmt v5.2.. i've tried youtube 3d, stereoscopic player and tmt 5.. all show the blurry image 3d effect, put glasses on, they try to sync no luck. My set is the HLT-6187S (i know many said they have dlp link working with this model, but maybe it differs person to person?) I dont have any drivers installed on the HTPC for 3d.. it was my understanding that tmt or youtube, would automatically send a checkerboard signal to the tv.

So many said try the ultra clears from 3dheaven on here.. i'd prefer a set that had recharge ability.. but at this point ill take what can work (however, i'm not sure how their return policy is, compared to amazon which is easy)

As many have said, this is getting confusing because it seems to be a per person experience.. maybe based on tv settings or other conditions that result in good quality experiences as well? (one of the biggest stumbling blocks with 3d, besides lack of content, user friendly plug n play ability etc).

So i was considering trying the dlp-link ultra clears, but i'm not convinced they will even work (*has anyone had one pair of dlp-link work and another that didnt.. anyone found tv settings can affect the ability to pick up the dlp-link? fyi, my computer settings have it at 60hz, so i'm sure its not that).

I was considering going ebay for the ssg-1000's, but if i find that one pair looks great, ill probably want to get 3-5 total pairs and that could be a painful process, beyond expense...*i dont get a good sense that you can mix these IR ones.

*On the NXG technology, which one is the right set here.. and what emitter, as i dont see one that comes with an emitter?

*If i go with ultra clear 3d glasses IR variety.. are these the glasses and this the emitter?

These 3 models appear to be the front runners from what i can tell.. whether or not i will see rainbows, or i will still see red tint with the ir ones, remains to be seen.

With the Ultra Clears, be sure to just push the button once quickly to turn them on. Holding it down for about 2-3 seconds turns them off. I was making the mistake of holding it down for a few seconds to turn them on, and thought the battery was going dead, because it would just flicker and go off. Perhaps the DLP-link glasses not working is something as simple as that.
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post #127 of 148
1/20/12 at 10:46am
Thread Starter 
If your set gets a red hue than DLP link should work fine. The people who have issues with DLP Link glasses are the ones who have no tint to their 3D picture.
From what I can gather markm75 - your glasses are working. My evidence is that the red hue is gone and your blacks look black. Sounds to me like the problem is elsewhere. Your best bet is to get a 3D blu-ray player that outputs checkerboard and see if that outputs working 3D to your set. The problem is you have so many things going on that it is hard to determine what is failing along the way.
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post #128 of 148
1/20/12 at 10:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mounta1n View Post

With the Ultra Clears, be sure to just push the button once quickly to turn them on. Holding it down for about 2-3 seconds turns them off. I was making the mistake of holding it down for a few seconds to turn them on, and thought the battery was going dead, because it would just flicker and go off. Perhaps the DLP-link glasses not working is something as simple as that.

I'm beginning to think its a resolution or scaling issue on the dlp-link with my htpc, will test tonight..

Thinking of getting either the ultra clear IR rechargeables plus emitter for $70 or the nxg-3dg (but what emitter?).. i also see nxg-3dgr for samsung c series that is rechargeable but not sure if it will work ? Isnt it the consensus on the ir side that the nxg's were slightly better than the ultra clears as far as tint goes? Just wondering if the ultimate 3d heaven emitter would work with them.
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post #129 of 148
1/20/12 at 1:21pm
Thread Starter 
I am willing to bet that you will have no luck with the IR glasses, and when you do figure out the problem you'll be stuck with crappy IR glasses.

Here is the emitter:
http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/3dtrformisa3.html

It will work with the IR Ultra Clear glasses, but I'll bet anything your results will be the same. The odds are slim to none that the NXG's will work with that emitter. At this point you should stop trying to make things more complicated until you get it working.

Don't waste too much money, cause IR glasses suck on the 6187s, period. You'll see.

Just found this:
https://www.updownbids.com/product-display.php?id=9236
Quote:


Samsung Compatibility - 2010 C-Series models (Not compatible with D-Series or DLP Link TVs)
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post #130 of 148
1/20/12 at 1:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Don't waste too much money, cause IR glasses suck on the 6187s, period. You'll see.

Just found this:
https://www.updownbids.com/product-display.php?id=9236

I so that emitter you found with glasses, basically wont work either.. and yeah i agree, i'm sure its probably just a scaling/resolution thing at this point, or so i hope.
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post #131 of 148
1/21/12 at 7:10am
Wow more options out there now it seems. And IR/RF as well.. Even seen kits to combine IR & RF.

Has anyone tried any of these (DLP List only)?

3Dtvcorp: http://snipurl.com/21tg82q
Excelvan: http://amzn.to/wgGHCI
GetD: http://amzn.to/xcLL9l
?? #1: http://snipurl.com/21tg8as
SainSonic (Could be same as above): http://amzn.to/yFhn0R
?? #2: http://amzn.to/zgxAem
?? (same as above?): http://amzn.to/ytPIMS

BOUGHT this month (Jan 2012):
*The 'New' X102's (was in list above): http://www.xpand.me/products/dlp-link-glasses-x102/
--- These work great with my Samsung HL61A750 and 67. Work great alongside my IR I-O glasses/emitter, SSG1000/emitter, and GEN2 emitter. A bit small for my big noggin Wife likes them over her glasses. Bought them from buy-dot-com (see below).
*SSG1000: bought two on ebay. Seems after nickels55 posted his two more sets came up. Wish I could of picked them all up. I have two and they work great to me. They are kinda heavy. Wife does not like them.
*I-O glasses. I see these out there still. I just bought 4 more and a 3DTVcorp GEN2 emitter on ebay. Work great. A little rainbowing. But you can get these cheap ($30 new) or look for some cheaper in a kit. I have 5 of these now as well as the original emitter. Fit kids heads great. If only the arms were shorter (but maybe you can modify them). One person painted the plastic around the lenses black to remove glare (cool idea). Wife likes them and fit over her glasses (doesn't notice rainbowing and I have not told her).

TRIED (02-2012):
01. VXP/Future Cinema (Eagle 510): http://snipurl.com/21tg7c1 - This to me seemed very good quality. I bought a pair from the seller on e-b-a-y. The worked great and no sync issues, but for my sets it could not 'filter' the RED The PQ seemed great except when it came to the deep blacks. I did not notice really any rainbowing, but the red distracted me. Oh well. So I returned them.

TEMP EDIT (FYI).. If anyone is interested in xpand x102 3D revolution blue glasses Tiger direct has a set of two for 99.99 (free shipping comes and goes). They have two listings and I see no diff. The other one is 169.99.



TIA!
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post #132 of 148
1/21/12 at 7:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post


I so that emitter you found with glasses, basically wont work either.. and yeah i agree, i'm sure its probably just a scaling/resolution thing at this point, or so i hope.

I managed to get at least YouTube working. Seems to b a scaling issue. the only way is if I don't pull the edges of the screen to fit.

Power DVD 11 and tmt 5.2 don't work. They show 3d but in settings there is no option for checkerboard. In tmt settings are grey but 3d is checked
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post #133 of 148
1/24/12 at 8:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

I managed to get at least YouTube working. Seems to b a scaling issue. the only way is if I don't pull the edges of the screen to fit.

Power DVD 11 and tmt 5.2 don't work. They show 3d but in settings there is no option for checkerboard. In tmt settings are grey but 3d is checked

The key for PDVD and TMT was to go into settings on the dedicated TMT player (if this is used) or in the media center version, or in power dvd.. set the display to 3d dlp ready etc.. and change the format from auto to checkboard..
Everything works beautifully now.

I'm using the VXP/Future Cinema (Eagle 510) ebay glasses.. i'm not seeing any rainbows or red tint (failure to block dlp flash) on my hlt-6187S.. the quality seems very solid on the glasses and they work from 15 feet in my case.. rechargeable of course too.

*What is a bummer is that so far i cant figure out how to scale (underscan/overscan) the image from the intel hd graphics on the htpc, so that the edges of the screen arent lost (maybe 3/4" or less on all sides). For now i guess i may just program a hot key using a macro program to make the switch for 3d + harmony macro (intel doesnt have a hotkey for the profile unfortunately).

*I'm not sure, if i bought a different pair of dlp-link glasses down the road for comparison, if they would work at the same time or have issues (like say the ultra clear rechargeable from 3d heaven).

*Being able to test (Invisible Tiger demo) on 360 with a checkerboard option was nice as well.. but i guess this Tru3d $300 adapter is still needed for all games that are not checkerboard compatible correct? (I could have sworn the price to do this was much less as of today)

Here is a link for 360 3d games i found: http://www.3dtested.com/3d-xbox-360-games-list/
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post #134 of 148
1/24/12 at 9:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

. but i guess this Tru3d $300 adapter is still needed for all games that are not checkerboard compatible correct? (I could have sworn the price to do this was much less as of today)

You just need to find a 3DA-1 adapter with a pre-2011 build date. I just asked the ebay sellers what the build date was. Then there's a series of button presses, set out in another thread here on avsforum that will clear the EDID restrictions and allow it to work perfectly on your Sammy. I have the 67A750 and it worked for me. You don't need the remote. I got a used one that was missing the remote for about $80. I followed the directions to a T, and saw "3D Mode: Normal" pop up on my Samsung for the first time. I use it with a PS3 for both games and 3D blu-rays. 3D for less than $100, with none of the crosstalk issues that plague the LCD/LED's and plasmas. Awesome.
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post #135 of 148
1/24/12 at 9:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mounta1n View Post

You just need to find a 3DA-1 adapter with a pre-2011 build date. I just asked the ebay sellers what the build date was. Then there's a series of button presses, set out in another thread here on avsforum that will clear the EDID restrictions and allow it to work perfectly on your Sammy. I have the 67A750 and it worked for me. You don't need the remote. I got a used one that was missing the remote for about $80. I followed the directions to a T, and saw "3D Mode: Normal" pop up on my Samsung for the first time. I use it with a PS3 for both games and 3D blu-rays. 3D for less than $100, with none of the crosstalk issues that plague the LCD/LED's and plasmas. Awesome.

Oh nice, so i dont need to do any EDID changes on the samsung either.. just get one with a the earlier build date? You must have gotten lucky on ebay, the avg sale price on this guy appears to be at least $150, some as high as $200.. will keep my eye open though

Btw fwiw, in my samsung experience with the 501s, i have it set to 3d:INV so far, seems to be the best mode.. people and objects pop out of the screen to some extent.
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post #136 of 148
1/24/12 at 9:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Oh nice, so i dont need to do any EDID changes on the samsung either.. just get one with a the earlier build date? You must have gotten lucky on ebay, the avg sale price on this guy appears to be at least $150, some as high as $200.. will keep my eye open though

Btw fwiw, in my samsung experience with the 501s, i have it set to 3d:INV so far, seems to be the best mode.. people and objects pop out of the screen to some extent.

Correct, no need to try to change the EDID on the set itself and the risks that entails. You just clear the restrictions in the adapter. Very clean and simple solution.

On my model, the setting is Mode 2, probably same as INV, my only choices for modes are OFF, Mode 1, and Mode 2.
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post #137 of 148
1/24/12 at 10:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mounta1n View Post


Correct, no need to try to change the EDID on the set itself and the risks that entails. You just clear the restrictions in the adapter. Very clean and simple solution.

On my model, the setting is Mode 2, probably same as INV, my only choices for modes are OFF, Mode 1, and Mode 2.

Just curious. How tricky is that to place in between a game system plus receiver setup. Best arrangement etc?
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post #138 of 148
1/24/12 at 11:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Just curious. How tricky is that to place in between a game system plus receiver setup. Best arrangement etc?

It only passes 2 channel audio. That's the biggest bummer with the adapter. I haven't seen a fix to get around that yet (If anyone knows of one, enlighten me!), so I don't use it between the PS3 and receiver. If you have an HDMI 1.4 (3D compatible) receiver, then just put it after the receiver, and it works for all of your sources. I have an HDMI 1.3 receiver, and so I use a splitter with 3D signal going direct to TV, and using optical for audio when using 3D, otherwise the HDMI goes to the receiver as normal for everything but 3D for me.
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post #139 of 148
1/24/12 at 11:27am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Oh nice, so i dont need to do any EDID changes on the samsung either.. just get one with a the earlier build date? You must have gotten lucky on ebay, the avg sale price on this guy appears to be at least $150, some as high as $200.. will keep my eye open though

Btw fwiw, in my samsung experience with the 501s, i have it set to 3d:INV so far, seems to be the best mode.. people and objects pop out of the screen to some extent.

The 3D modes on the 6187s of INV just means inverse, or the opposite of Mode 1. It switches left and right images - so it reverse the sync. For some reason IR glasses use mode 1 and DLP Link glasses use mode 2 (INV). If you want to mix IR and DLP glasses you have to make sure the emitter or glasses have a reverse sync switch on them.

The 3DA-1 adapter was $100 a few years ago when I got mine. The EDID spoof is simple. All you need is to make a cable to connect to the TV to a laptop or PC and the right software. It was simple to get the 3DA-1 to work on my Sammy, just had to read a little. I still have the cable if anyone needs it, just PM me and pay for shipping.
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post #140 of 148
1/24/12 at 11:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Oh nice, so i dont need to do any EDID changes on the samsung either.. just get one with a the earlier build date? You must have gotten lucky on ebay, the avg sale price on this guy appears to be at least $150, some as high as $200.. will keep my eye open though

Btw fwiw, in my samsung experience with the 501s, i have it set to 3d:INV so far, seems to be the best mode.. people and objects pop out of the screen to some extent.

I have a 3DA-1 with an October 2010 build date that I'd be willing to sell/ship to you for $85. We're no longer using it because we now have an Epson 3010 pj for 3D viewing. I also have the Mits IR emitter and 2 pair of Mits IR glasses as well as Ultra Clear IR glasses (2 adult and 1 child's) available for sale as well--they are not compatable with the Epson. If you or anyone else are interested in the adapter or glasses please send me a pm by clicking on my "name", Old Corps and we can work out the details. I do have a Pay Pal account for payment.

Ed


UPDATE: The 3DA-1 is SOLD. I still have the IR glasses and emiiter. 2 pr. Mits glasses & emitter/cable, $100 shipped (U.S). All 3 pr. UC IR glasses-adult's are battery, child's are rechargeable, $100 shipped in U.S. All 5 pr.+emitter/cable shipped (U.S.), $175. PM if interested.
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post #141 of 148
1/24/12 at 12:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

The 3DA-1 adapter was $100 a few years ago when I got mine. The EDID spoof is simple. All you need is to make a cable to connect to the TV to a laptop or PC and the right software. It was simple to get the 3DA-1 to work on my Sammy, just had to read a little. I still have the cable if anyone needs it, just PM me and pay for shipping.

It's just not even necessary to spoof the EDID anymore though, you just clear the EDID restrictions on the adapter with a simple button-press sequence. 3DA-1 adapters are still going for about $100.
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post #142 of 148
1/24/12 at 12:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mounta1n View Post

It only passes 2 channel audio. That's the biggest bummer with the adapter. I haven't seen a fix to get around that yet (If anyone knows of one, enlighten me!), so I don't use it between the PS3 and receiver. If you have an HDMI 1.4 (3D compatible) receiver, then just put it after the receiver, and it works for all of your sources. I have an HDMI 1.3 receiver, and so I use a splitter with 3D signal going direct to TV, and using optical for audio when using 3D, otherwise the HDMI goes to the receiver as normal for everything but 3D for me.

In my case my receiver is a denon which is 1.4 3d compatible.. so i'm assuming i could just place the mits at the end of the outgoing cable from the receiver, between receiver and the hdmi3 on the tv? Or are you saying that even with this config it wont pass the 5.1 /7.1 sound from the hdmi cable? (or it wont if 1.3 and lower?). If the source isnt 3d, do you just turn off the mits or not enable the mits box via a button, so everything just gets passed as if the box wasnt there? Or rather, i guess it doesnt matter if the device is the last device in the chain before the screen.
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post #143 of 148
1/24/12 at 1:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

In my case my receiver is a denon which is 1.4 3d compatible.. so i'm assuming i could just place the mits at the end of the outgoing cable from the receiver, between receiver and the hdmi3 on the tv? Or are you saying that even with this config it wont pass the 5.1 /7.1 sound from the hdmi cable? (or it wont if 1.3 and lower?). If the source isnt 3d, do you just turn off the mits or not enable the mits box via a button, so everything just gets passed as if the box wasnt there? Or rather, i guess it doesnt matter if the device is the last device in the chain before the screen.

No, you won't have any problems with the audio, and the device will just go right before HDMI3 on your TV (after your receiver). When you have the adapter plugged into HDMI 3 on your TV, you can essentially regard your setup as being a full-on 2010+ 3DTV. I just have to jump through some hoops because of my 1.3 receiver.

If the signal isn't 3D, it just passes through the adapter. Also remember to change HDMI3 to PC.
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post #144 of 148
1/24/12 at 2:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mounta1n View Post

No, you won't have any problems with the audio, and the device will just go right before HDMI3 on your TV (after your receiver). When you have the adapter plugged into HDMI 3 on your TV, you can essentially regard your setup as being a full-on 2010+ 3DTV. I just have to jump through some hoops because of my 1.3 receiver.

If the signal isn't 3D, it just passes through the adapter. Also remember to change HDMI3 to PC.


Thanks a trillion guys for all the information.. this will indeed work like a treat, thanks for that tip on setting hdmi3 to PC too.

Now i'm working on figuring out how to get games like Skyrim and Batman to play on the DLP in 3D from my main gaming PC (amd 5850).. it appears tridef or iz3d is the only way short of swapping for nvidia with that beast.

3D is definitely worth having, not a fad.
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post #145 of 148
1/24/12 at 6:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by old corps View Post

I have a 3DA-1 with an October 2010 build date that I'd be willing to sell/ship to you for $85. We're no longer using it because we now have an Epson 3010 pj for 3D viewing. I also have the Mits IR emitter and 2 pair of Mits IR glasses as well as Ultra Clear IR glasses (2 adult and 1 child's) available for sale as well--they are not compatable with the Epson. If you or anyone else are interested in the adapter or glasses please send me a pm by clicking on my "name", Old Corps and we can work out the details. I do have a Pay Pal account for payment.

Ed


UPDATE: The 3DA-1 is SOLD. I still have the IR glasses and emiiter. 2 pr. Mits glasses & emitter/cable, $100 shipped (U.S). All 3 pr. UC IR glasses-adult's are battery, child's are rechargeable, $100 shipped in U.S. All 5 pr.+emitter/cable shipped (U.S.), $175. PM if interested.

bumped
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post #146 of 148
1/28/12 at 10:57am
I tested the stock 3DC-1000 glasses and didnt like them because of the red tint. I have a pair of UC dlp link glasses but I am getting sync issues from daylight. Can anyone describe the tape trick with these?

There is also 2 3D modes on my HL61A650 bulb set, the samsung IR glasses like mode 1, the UC glasses like mode 2 although they kind of work on both.
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post #147 of 148
2/10/12 at 12:15pm
I just got a pair of True Depth 3d rechargeable DLP-link glasses from their discontinued stock. And they're fantastic. There's no apparent/glaring flaws I can pin point, and it worked seamlessly with my HL61A750; red tint from the 3d mode 2 is completely resolved; picture/3d quality is gorgeous and seems perfect; nevertheless, this is my first 3d glass purchase.

I do notice a slight "rainbow effect" rarely to the far right of the screen, and a faint reflection near left/right edges if I concentrate on the glasses themselves instead of the screen; but these effects were really quite minor and inconsequential to the overall 3d experience.

Not only are they nice to look through, they're also quite nice to look at. They look very sleek with modern black frames, and are relatively light at 46g. In other words, I can both comfortably wear them for extended periods of time, and around others, without looking too goofy. I only wish the glasses were curved a little, so it'd wrap around my face better (which should take care of any reflection issues as well).

Now, I just found these 3ACTIVE Mitsubishi-Compatible 3D Glasses for Mitsubishi 3D DLP TV's (Rechargeable) at Amazon, and these look very similar, but even more streamlined, likely lighter. And I absolutely love the case that comes with it.

I understand they're meant to be used with an IR emitter, so I'm a little worried if the 3d mode "red tint" will prove problematic. Does anyone have experience with these glasses in particular? Or just in general, how bad are the IR emitter based glasses compared to the DLP-link ones, in blocking the red tint? Would it be worth considering over DLP-link for my set (HL61A750)? Thanks
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post #148 of 148
2/10/12 at 2:14pm
I am also an owner of a pair of True Depth 3d glasses (DLP link, rechargeable) that I've purchased about a few weeks ago. I'm overall pleased with the feel, fit and weight of them but find one flaw that is quite annoying.

As mentioned by others, these glasses suffer from REFLECTIONS/GLARE sneaking in from every direction possible. It appears to me, every part of the glasses contributes to the undesirable effect: frame bevels, arm curvature and, most importantly, the inner lens surfaces.

The effect is less pronounced with all the lights off, but it's still there. I believe, TV picture is projected onto inner arm curves, bounces back to inner lens surface and into your eyes. At times, the effect is minor and barely noticeable, while other times it's very annoying and distracting.


Has anyone found a working solution to decrease the reflections? I heard mentions of paint or cloth tape - any positive experience?
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