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Glasses Buyers Guide - (Samsung DLP LED Legacy Sets) - Page 3

post #61 of 148
I have a Samsung HL67A750 LED DLP. I am looking to add 3D. I found as others the 3D Heaven Ultra-Clear HD Wireless 3-D Glasses for Samsung or Mitsubishi TV! http://ultimate3dheaven.com/dlp3dwiglfis.html
However I'm still confused after reading 100 or more posts about 3D. I was under the impression that this set had a built in emitter and I could use the glasses that I have provided a link to, but at the bottom it says
For Mitsubishi or Samsung DLP Televisions or any other televisions or 3D devices with a Din-3 port you will need a matching IR transmitter which we carry for only $39.

My set does have the 3D Din port, so do I have to use the other glasses with emitter? Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses which says at the bottom.
If you are already using the Mitsubishi 3D Transmitter or if you have a Samsung television that puts off its own signal we recommend this item instead: Ultra-Clear IR transmitter Version 3D Glasses.
I also wear glasses and I emailed the company and asked which pair was more comfortable for glasses wearers and only got this for an answer:
Personally I prefer the IR as you get much better coverage than DLP link such as in this kit:



http://ultimate3dheaven.com/3dhardwarepack1.html
post #62 of 148
Thread Starter 
larrylwill - I haven't tried the IR version, but the DLP Link ones are perfect for your set. When you turn on 3D mode does your set get a bad red tint link my Samsung set? If so, you may find the IR glasses do not get rid of this fully. The DLP Link glasses do get rid of the tint and your blacks are true black. I look forward to hearing the results if you get the IR emitter and the UC IR model glasses.

Your set has no built in emitter, just automatic DLP Link.

As for wearing them over glasses, both are the same as the frames are identical. His answer is that IR has better coverage meaning they don't lose sync like DLP Link ones do if you get to far away or if you have bright light sources in the room besides the TV. DLP Link glasses aren't great in daylight, but IR ones work fine.
==========================================
Also, you are aware that your set only supports checkerboard format, right? If you plan to watch any other type of 3D like games on the PS3 or 3DTV, then you need the Mitsubishi adapter (3DC-100S) to convert the signal to checkerboard.
post #63 of 148
Yes I am aware of the checkerboard only. The Panasonic DVD outputs checkerboard. At this time I have no plans to play games although who knows. We only watch TV at night so light should not be a problem. I cant tell about the red tint because the DVD is not here yet. Not due here until the 8th. I hate UPS from California it takes 7-10 days. I cant enter 3D mode until I have a source.
Ok so what is automatic DPL link? Is it wireless. Whats the difference between a DLP link and Emitter? physically? I would assume the Emitter is a wireless IR emitter isnt the DPL link also a wireless signal of some kind?
If I understand you correctly I only need these: http://ultimate3dheaven.com/dlp3dwiglfis.html
and my DVD checkerboard player and 3D BluRay disk, Nothing more, Correct?
post #64 of 148
Thread Starter 
NO! Those are IR glasses. You need an emitter to use them.
You need these glasses:
http://ultimate3dheaven.com/uldlpliwi3dg.html

The ones I linked are DLP Link glasses.

In a nutshell:
DLP Link is a flash that comes from your TV screen. You can't see it, but it does cause the picture to have a red tint to it. The TV flashes and the glasses pick up the flash and use it to sync with the picture. These glasses usually fully convert the blacks to black, but they sometimes have sync issues in rooms with lights or bright windows. There is a thread on here about using some tape or other material to partially cover the sensor to get better syncing.

IR emitters send out an Infared signal that IR glasses pick up to sync with the TV. Your TV has a 3-pin VESA port on the back where you connect an IR emitter - it is not built in on these older models. These are better for keeping sync, but they do not block the DLP Link flash and you end up with blacks having a red tint.


One other thing to be aware of, most DLP glasses combined with your set sometimes cause a visible rainbow down the screen. Some people see it, some people don't. There is also a thread on here about fixing that problem as well.
post #65 of 148
I have read well over 150 threads and this is the first time I have seen someone explain the difference. Thank you very much.
When I get the DVD I will check for the red tint then order the glasses.
post #66 of 148
Thread Starter 
Here is my set in action (6187s - the model just before yours) with an example of DLP glasses vs IR and the red tint issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iItYJK_3os
post #67 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Here is my set in action (6187s - the model just before yours) with an example of DLP glasses vs IR and the red tint issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iItYJK_3os

Is your set DLP with LEDS or Bulb?

Overall which do you prefer, Link or IR?

thank you
post #68 of 148
just received the 3d glasses and ir transmitter from 3d heaven.we live in london canada. so far couldn't be happier.they arrived within a week and work excellent on our samsung dlp 3d ready tv. it is a hlt5687s model.we tried the dlp link glasses and they wouldn't stay in synch. these glasses so far have worked flawlessly.at last we can begin to enjoy 3d as it was meant to be!
post #69 of 148
I suppose if you get the ones with the emitter IR then you only have to add a converter to get direct tv etc in 3d correct.
post #70 of 148
we have the converter from mits from tru3d.
post #71 of 148
Would this adapter work with Direct TV and the Samsung Mitsubishi 3DA-1
post #72 of 148
Just wanted everyone to know that a few sellers have the Samsung SSG1000 3D Glasses for sale on ebay for around $55 right now. The Samsung SSG1000 3D Glasses were specifically made for the Samsung 3D ready DLP HDTVs. These are the glasses that I use and I have been very happy with them. For that price I bought two more pairs of glasses in case I have several friends over. I received the glasses and had no problems.
post #73 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post

Is your set DLP with LEDS or Bulb?

Overall which do you prefer, Link or IR?

thank you

Before we try to answer larrylwill's question:
Him (nickels55) and I both have the exact same TV HLT-6187S. He has the red tint, and it's obvious. I do not. I cannot even tell there any excess red in the picture, with no glasses on. It sounds like his DLP glasses work great. DLP Link for my TV is unusable (won't keep sync), yet IR seems to look fine.

Perhaps it's that we have different controller chips, or models of red LED "bulb", but even within the same model, it seems you cannot rule out either going DLP or IR.
post #74 of 148
I have the 67A750 and bought IR glasses from http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/ with the emitter. It works just fine with my Panasonic DT210 DVD, no red tint but a little dark. I am waiting on a 3DA-1 which I will hook up to my Direct TV after the reset.
post #75 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by hceuterpe View Post

Before we try to answer larrylwill's question:
Him (nickels55) and I both have the exact same TV HLT-6187S. He has the red tint, and it's obvious. I do not. I cannot even tell there any excess red in the picture, with no glasses on. It sounds like his DLP glasses work great. DLP Link for my TV is unusable (won't keep sync), yet IR seems to look fine.

Perhaps it's that we have different controller chips, or models of red LED "bulb", but even within the same model, it seems you cannot rule out either going DLP or IR.

i have a hlt5687s model and tried dlp link glasses with no success at all.the ones with the emitter and glasses work excellent.purchased from 3d heaven.some people experience different results from the same model of tv.i also have no noticeable red tint.
post #76 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post

I have a Samsung HL67A750 LED DLP. I am looking to add 3D. I found as others the 3D Heaven Ultra-Clear HD Wireless 3-D Glasses for Samsung or Mitsubishi TV! http://ultimate3dheaven.com/dlp3dwiglfis.html
However I'm still confused after reading 100 or more posts about 3D. I was under the impression that this set had a built in emitter and I could use the glasses that I have provided a link to, but at the bottom it says
For Mitsubishi or Samsung DLP Televisions or any other televisions or 3D devices with a Din-3 port you will need a matching IR transmitter which we carry for only $39.

My set does have the 3D Din port, so do I have to use the other glasses with emitter? Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses which says at the bottom.
If you are already using the Mitsubishi 3D Transmitter or if you have a Samsung television that puts off its own signal we recommend this item instead: Ultra-Clear IR transmitter Version 3D Glasses.
I also wear glasses and I emailed the company and asked which pair was more comfortable for glasses wearers and only got this for an answer:
Personally I prefer the IR as you get much better coverage than DLP link such as in this kit:



http://ultimate3dheaven.com/3dhardwarepack1.html

You can buy the Samsung SSG1000 3D Glasses with emitter on eBay right now for under $60 with shipping. These are the glasses that were specifically made for the Samsung 3D ready DLP HDTVs. That is what I use on my Samsung HL61A750 and they work great.

I know nickels55 has a pair on order and he should be giving us his review soon.
post #77 of 148
Thread Starter 
I prefer the ultra clear DLP Link glasses over the SSG1000s. The SSGs are a little heavy and uncomfortable, the blacks have a slight red tint still, and there is a minor rainbow effect on the right side of the screen. They do not color shift as bad as the UC glasses. The SSGs do sync pretty well in the day since they are IR, but given the choice I'd go with the DLP Link glasses with a piece of film over the lenses to fix the rainbow issue. Nothing beats having true blacks with the UC glasses, plus they are so much lighter and comfortable.
post #78 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

I prefer the ultra clear DLP Link glasses over the SSG1000s. The SSGs are a little heavy and uncomfortable, the blacks have a slight red tint still, and there is a minor rainbow effect on the right side of the screen. They do not color shift as bad as the UC glasses. The SSGs do sync pretty well in the day since they are IR, but given the choice I'd go with the DLP Link glasses with a piece of film over the lenses to fix the rainbow issue. Nothing beats having true blacks with the UC glasses, plus they are so much lighter and comfortable.

I have the Ultra Clear DLP link glasses and like them a lot but find it very irritating that if i look away from the tv it goes off 3D/RED and i have to make sure my living room is Dark before i watch/ play anything in 3D...so i was looking into getting the Samsung SSG1000 3D Glasses so that i wouldn't have to worry about them loosing sync / having to close the blinds every time..but now hearing they aren't to great and still have a reddish tint i don't know what to do...
post #79 of 148
Thread Starter 
The SSGs also lose sync when you look away from the TV. The emitter must not be that strong.

I've found putting electric tape over 80% of the Ultra Clear sensor made them work much better in the day. No need to close the blinds.
post #80 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

The SSGs also lose sync when you look away from the TV. The emitter must not be that strong.

I've found putting electric tape over 80% of the Ultra Clear sensor made them work much better in the day. No need to close the blinds.

I do not have a problem with my SSG1000s losing sync. The emitter is made to be placed with the pointed end towards the viewer. If you place it sideways then the IR emitter is towards the side. I do not have a rainbow effect and very rarely ever have any type of red tint with the SSG1000s. I am sorry Nickels55 that you did not like the SSG1000s as well as other glasses.
post #81 of 148
Thread Starter 
Does your set have a bad red tint like mine? I know some people have DLP Link issues and it usually goes back to their set doesn't have a crazy red tint in 3D mode.

The red tint isn't that bad, but when you put on the UC glasses blacks are clearly more black. The rainbow is hard to spot unless you know where to look. I'll try to get some photos through the SSGs with my camera to show you all actual visual comparisons.
post #82 of 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Does your set have a bad red tint like mine? I know some people have DLP Link issues and it usually goes back to their set doesn't have a crazy red tint in 3D mode.

The red tint isn't that bad, but when you put on the UC glasses blacks are clearly more black. The rainbow is hard to spot unless you know where to look. I'll try to get some photos through the SSGs with my camera to show you all actual visual comparisons.

My set does not have a bad red tint. It has a red tint when it switches to the 3D Mode but when I put on my SSG1000 Glasses the tint goes away.
post #83 of 148
Oh that electrical tape idea a good trick , I'ma try that out on mine , cause it's really annoying that if any kind of sunlight comes through they won't work...thanks nickels

And I believe every Samsung has a Red tint while in 3D mode... But the glasses get rid of the red and gets black again, Does the mitusubishi have a red tint too or just Samsungs?
post #84 of 148
Thread Starter 
I've seen plenty of people here without a red tint on these older samsungs in 3D mode. These same people have no luck with DLP Link glasses.

As for the SSGs, the red tint is minimalized, but not completely fixed. It is very noticeable if you switch from the SSGs to the UCs on a black screen. The blacks look warm through the SSGs, but jet black through the UCs.

Have you ever used Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses? The blacks from them are unmatched by any inexpensive IR sets to date.


Also - the Universal emitter doesn't work on the SSGSs, but the Model U glasses work fine with the SSGs emitter for some reason.
post #85 of 148
Do Mitsubishi DLPs have a rent tint in 3D mode as well? And are they any better than the Samsung TVs or does Samsung have them beat? Especially in 3D mode
post #86 of 148
Thread Starter 
I haven't seen 3D on a Mitts, but here is a typical look at the red seen on Samsung sets


As far as I can tell that is the result of the DLP Link, so Mitts sets with DLP Link stuck on should also look like this.

I think Mitts sets go green instead of red:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1265214
post #87 of 148
That's werid that Mits turn green an ours turns reddish... Now has it been proven which has a better 3D look as in while watching a Movie/Game or are both DLPs about the same when it comes to picture and 3D Depth
post #88 of 148
Just to be clear.. I have the samsung 67a750 and if i buy the mitsubishi 3da-1 that is not a may 2011 build and do the reset, it should work with the Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses without an additional emitter. I would be using a time warner dvr that is 3d capable.

Really appreciate it. Thanks!
post #89 of 148
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by if200 View Post

Just to be clear.. I have the samsung 67a750 and if i buy the mitsubishi 3da-1 that is not a may 2011 build and do the reset, it should work with the Ultra-Clear DLP LINK Wireless 3D Glasses without an additional emitter. I would be using a time warner dvr that is 3d capable.

Really appreciate it. Thanks!

These are two different issues. The 3Da-1 will convert other 3D formats to checkerboard for your set. The UC DLP Link glasses will work on your set without an emitter, since it is a DLP HDTV.

The reason I point this out is that if you have a Blu-Ray player that outputs checkerboard you do not need the 3Da-1 to get 3D on your set. I doubt your DVR outputs cherboard, its probably T/B or S-b-S 3D, which is where the 3Da-1 comes in to convert these signals to checkerboard.
post #90 of 148
So do we have to turn the 3D Mode on and off manually on our sets each time we want to watch 3D material? It's not that big of a deal, I just don't want to have to be doing it unnecessarily if there's a way around it. 67A750. I have a pair of Optomas and a pair of Ultra Clears on the way, both DLP-Link. So I'll add my two cents on the differences between the two after this weekend. My set definitely has the red tint once switched to 3D mode.
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