Desert Sunset Theater Build - Page 36

I just checked my settings - they are all switched to the right except 6 and 7. So I do have the clip limiter on. You can run the output of your receiver to input one and run in parallel mode and it will produce the same signal on channel 2.

I bought the 1124p several years ago to EQ a few DIY subs - I picked it up for cheap and it seemed like a good solution at the time. I've looked into other options and might consider something else in the future - I'd really like to get something that I can have multiple settings that can be remote controlled. The only thing I know of that fits that bill right now is the velodyne eq. The remote functionality for that is nice but the actual EQ is less robust than the 1124. The 1124 was difficult for me to figure out but once I got it down its pretty easy. I'm sure there are better options out there, but the 1124 ended up doing the job for me. For the price its hard to beat.

The lack of presets would be a deal killer for me. I have my subs running hot for movies but I also have a flatter music setting. There have been a few times I have run the music setting for a movie because it seemed overboard on the bass. It would be really nice to be able to switch presets by remote.

I used cherry wood for the threshold. It is just stained and sealed. I have not had any issues with the wood so far and could easily refinish if it wears. Granite does seem like a good option and if you could get it the right height and width, you could easily cut the length to fit with a tile saw or angle grinder. I have thought about doing granite but the wood is working fine for me. I did not nail down the wood - it was my intention but did not want to have to fill the holes so I could still slide mine out if I want since I have not finished with the carpet on the outside of the door.

Been away from the forums lately. I just used regular 1/2 inch OSB to cover the fronts of the steps, the steps themselves are 3/4" flooring with another 3/4" strip screwed to the front to the step has a 1 1/2 inch roundover. I would have used 1 1/2 inch material for normal steps that get lots of use, but there is no reason to use the steps there.

My riser is 12" high. I would have liked to have gone higher but I had limited headroom under the soffit. 16" would have been perfect for me for the back row. The back row is slightly obstructed when the seats are not reclined, (almost never). I still plan to raise the back seats up a few inches.

Yes that is what I was planning to do.

I have not noticed any flex in the "cabinet" walls at all. As mentioned previously I think it is the most solid structure I have ever built and by my estimation the IB chamber weighs 3000 lbs. The dual opposed drivers do help. The manifold walls are very solid - The manifolds are constructed of 2 layers - one of MDF and another of baltic birch ply. They are also attached to a base that is full of 300lbs of sand. The walls of the IB chamber are triple layered with 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and a layer of OSB with Green Glue between the layers. The access port to the IB "room" is also constructed of 2 layers of MDF with Green Glue between the layers. It has a gasket to prevent air leaks and is screwed into a framework which presses the cover against the gaskets - again it is very solid. It would have been nice to be able to not have the access panel, but I needed some way to access the drivers for installation and to finish off the inside of the room with insulation etc. Most people do not need to climb inside their subwoofer.

The room is not too dead. In fact I still plan to add more bass trapping in the rear - its probably impossible to have too much bass trapping because it takes a lot to be effective at really low frequencies. The rear bass traps might be covered to reflect high frequencies and absorb low.

I built my riser so it could be used as a giant bass trap in the future should I decide to do it. Everybody here seems to fill the riser with insulation and it should help damp some resonances. I figured it was inexpensive to do it before the carpet was in and impossible to do after. The two layers on the floor is just to prevent any rattles in the riser.

I had a friend with a good camera come and take some pictures of the room with some better lighting. Not all of these pictures are representative of the color of the room, but they do show details I have not been able to capture with my point and shoot camera. The screenshots were taken with the lighting up in the room so the images are washed out and not representative of the actual video quality.

Couple more shots of the room and speakers. The first picture with the speaker is a good representation of the carpet color.










Edited by stockmonkey2000 - 1/2/13 at 8:48am