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Desert Sunset Theater Build - Page 8

post #211 of 1093
Thread Starter 
Both layers of drywall are up.

post #212 of 1093
Thread Starter 
I also started work on the door. Started by hanging the door first.



Then removed the door from the hinges and cut 2 layers of 1/2" MDF. This was a dry fit. I used 2 layers of 1/2" so it would come close to matching the width of the automatic door bottom. I'll have to shim the door bottom out 1/8"



post #213 of 1093
Wow! That is going to be one thick door.
post #214 of 1093
Damn! It's like a bank vault door! I like it. I enjoy your overkill and attention to detail. Obviously, all that mass is going to put substantial weight, stress, etc. on the hinge(s) and framing.

Thanks for the pics
post #215 of 1093
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FOH View Post

Damn! It's like a bank vault door! I like it. I enjoy your overkill and attention to detail. Obviously, all that mass is going to put substantial weight, stress, etc. on the hinge(s) and framing.

Thanks for the pics

Yeah I framed the door like a normal door and realized that it is not going to be sufficient to hold the weight. I am going to have to reinforce the frame where the hinges will be.

The hinges I ordered are heavy duty and should support the weight. These are the hinges I waited over 2 months for and when they came they were not black hinges like they were supposed to be.

post #216 of 1093
Thread Starter 
The hinges are black now. Hopefully the paint will not wear out from the constant movement. I wasn't about to wait another 2 months for the black ones.

post #217 of 1093
Thread Starter 
Here are a few more shots of the door. This is after the first layer of MDF was screwed on.



Green glue was used between both layers.



Last layer put in and holes filled in. I went around the door with a flush router bit to make all the edges clean.

post #218 of 1093
Nice work on the door, that is going to be a heavy sucker.
post #219 of 1093
Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

Yeah I framed the door like a normal door and realized that it is not going to be sufficient to hold the weight. I am going to have to reinforce the frame where the hinges will be.

The hinges I ordered are heavy duty and should support the weight. These are the hinges I waited over 2 months for and when they came they were not black hinges like they were supposed to be.


I was picturing a piano hinge, or equivalent. However, those look beefy.
post #220 of 1093
Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

Both layers of drywall are up.

Congratulations. That's a big milestone -- some would say you are half way there but my experience differs. Looking great!
post #221 of 1093
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

Congratulations. That's a big milestone -- some would say you are half way there but my experience differs. Looking great!

I've still got a long ways to go. Ive done all the basic stuff before but when it comes to star ceilings, risers, columns etc its going to be stuff I've never done before and I'm sure progress will be slower.
post #222 of 1093
Thread Starter 
I'm working on the threshold for the automatic door bottom. I'm planning on having the threshold stick up 1/2 inch from the rest of the subfloor. Is this a good height to allow for carpet while not having the threshold stick up too far?

The threshold will be a piece of cherry wood.

post #223 of 1093
Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post
I'm working on the threshold for the automatic door bottom. I'm planning on having the threshold stick up 1/2 inch from the rest of the subfloor. Is this a good height to allow for carpet while not having the threshold stick up too far?

The threshold will be a piece of cherry wood.

Excellent question. This is one area I would like to know also. I don't really see people talk about this when they do a automatic door bottom.
post #224 of 1093
Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

I'm working on the threshold for the automatic door bottom. I'm planning on having the threshold stick up 1/2 inch from the rest of the subfloor. Is this a good height to allow for carpet while not having the threshold stick up too far?

The threshold will be a piece of cherry wood.

Obviously it will depend greatly on what you end up choosing, but the pad alone will go from 1/4" to 1/2" by itself. I think 3/8" is pretty average. Then add in the pile thickness. A pretty flat carpet is about 1/4". So then you are looking at 5/8" total. Unless, you are looking at some nice shag carpet (you know for sound attenuation), then you may need something a little thicker.
post #225 of 1093
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the feedback BllDo. I have not decided on carpet but imagine that I will go with something low pile but will also want a good thick high quality pad. I just realized the cherry is 1" thick (originally thought it was 3/4") so that and 1/2 osb and the delta FL is going to put me at 1.75" while the rest of the subfloor will be delta fl and 3/4" subfloor. That will put me 3/4 inches above the rest of the floor. I would have been thinking that is too much but that your explanation makes me feel better. That combined with a door seal that goes down 1/2 inch should give me plenty of clearance over the carpet.

I want to get this right because this door is not going to be something I can easily cut down later
post #226 of 1093
That should work out well.

I will be interested in your impression of the Delta FL. I've been interested in using it, but have been on the fence.
post #227 of 1093
Thread Starter 
I reinforced the door frame last night. With the depth I left for the 1/2 inch osb and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall the screws for the hinges would have just gone into the frame and the drywall and osb. I removed the OSB and put up 2 - 3/4 inch boards behind it to screw into. It should give a solid backing for the hinges but time will tell if it will be strong enough to support the weight of the door. I'll have to use less drywall on that side of the door to make it work with the additional thickness but I think i have a way to make it work.

(Edit - The drywall is up and to make it work I ended up using only a layer of 1/4 drywall on the side with the hinges. So there is practically no drywall there at all. This gave a substantial frame to screw the hinges into and I was able to put the wood directly next to the frame which gives the frame stability. For the area around the rest of the door I used a layer of 5/8 and a layer of 1/2. This was the only combination I could find that would not stick out from the frame. That being said it fits perfectly flush around the door. Worked out perfectly. )





post #228 of 1093
Thread Starter 
I also had a bit on an oh crap moment last night. For some reason I started to visualize the way the hinge opened and thought for a moment that my door was not going to open all the way. In a moment of panic I mocked up some wood the thickness of the door and realized that everything worked fine- It does stick out a ways into the frame when opened, but I do not see any way around that.



post #229 of 1093
Thread Starter 
I also built out the frame an additional inch for the additional thickness of the frame. I glued and nailed it into place. I'll fill in the gap and sand so it will be seamless when all is said and done. The door has been a bit of a production but I just kept reminding myself what commercially produced soundproof doors cost







I also sanded and primed the door.

post #230 of 1093
Are you weatherstripping the perimeter? I don't see a kerf in the applied stop to accept typical Q-lon weatherstrip.
post #231 of 1093
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

Are you weatherstripping the perimeter? I don't see a kerf in the applied stop to accept typical Q-lon weatherstrip.


Yes -I'll be applying weatherstripping. I'll probably try some foam weatherstripping at first and see how that works. I may have to remove the existing stop and make something bigger. As an alternative I may purchase the adjustable door seals from the soundproofing company. I'm trying to avoid that because of the cost and I think they will look bulky. I'll look into the Q-lon weatherstrip.
post #232 of 1093
That door is very cool. Nice setup.
post #233 of 1093
Fantastic work!!! You will be so happy when it is done no doubt. Although I am sure your creative side will miss the pleasure of making your dreams come to reality. I missed that part. Either way drywall dust is one of the worst foes in the world.

Best luck to you, and excellent work!!

Zulu
post #234 of 1093
Thread Starter 
I found this when cleaning up yesterday. What is it with kids and speakers that they cannot resist playing with them. At least the dustcaps are not pushed in.

post #235 of 1093
Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

I found this when cleaning up yesterday. What is it with kids and speakers that they cannot resist playing with them. At least the dustcaps are not pushed in.




That's why they call 'em dust caps.

As I'm sure you know, just be sure no foreign material gets in the magnetic gap via the small basket holes in the back.


Good luck
post #236 of 1093
I'm sure I'll find cat prints inside my F-20's if I ever get around to building them. Pink Floyd would cure the little #*$&er though.
post #237 of 1093
Thread Starter 
The chamber is sealed off but I'm now going to cover the front with plastic. (to keep the kids and the dust out) This dust was just from sanding the door. When It comes time to sand the drywall mud its going to be all over the place.
post #238 of 1093
Get a sander you can hook up to the shop vac.
post #239 of 1093
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazlem View Post

Get a sander you can hook up to the shop vac.

I have a sander that I can hook up to the vac but I just never bother to hook it up.
post #240 of 1093
Actually, to clarify - the kind I mean is the rectangular mesh style. They work awesome!
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