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Anybody get LG AN-WL100 to work on non-LG TVs - Page 2

post #31 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by dublus View Post

I will do as you suggest and remove anything in the HDMI signal path that isn't absolutely necessary.... I could just be extremely unlucky and by coincidence all of the combos I've tried so far would never have worked anyway and by directly connecting things I will find a setup that works.

Yes its quite possible. If you note the flow of the scenarios where the base station is in play, a lot of this seems to revolve around how the HDCP handshake happens (and breaks) that leads to the green screen effect.

There are too many scenarios and states to consider with extra HDMI devices/dependencies like a switch or AVR in the loop to find a solution in that setup without first getting the basic scenario worked out. Once we get something from the simple scenario you can do some investigation on how your devices handle input switching, HDCP handshaking, etc.
Edited by erihp - 11/8/12 at 2:43pm
post #32 of 74
dublus: any update?
post #33 of 74
I've been following your conversation and hoping to hear the results. I wonder if I have a similar problem. I have followed every step down to the power supply from Amazon and used the black wire as ground and also tried the white as ground but get the same message on the tv every time, "mismatched resolution".  This is a message from the tv not the LG transmitter and comes when it should be the LG box floating around. I've gotten the same message on 2 tv's. HELP.......Please.
post #34 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjwhitman View Post

I've been following your conversation and hoping to hear the results. I wonder if I have a similar problem. I have followed every step down to the power supply from Amazon and used the black wire as ground and also tried the white as ground but get the same message on the tv every time, "mismatched resolution".  This is a message from the tv not the LG transmitter and comes when it should be the LG box floating around. I've gotten the same message on 2 tv's. HELP.......Please.

frustrating. dont know how much i can help other than 'try another tv' which isnt really a solution for you. do the displays both support 720p and 1080i/p or are you using any type of converters to dvi or anything else that would be causing problems? a switch or AVR perhaps?

does anything change when you feed it a real source instead of the bouncy LG logo you expect?

btw, ive never used the white wire as ground, dont know where that came from... stick to black.
Edited by erihp - 11/23/12 at 12:10pm
post #35 of 74
This may help

www.lgrs232.com
post #36 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by el12 View Post

This may help
www.lgrs232.com

It wont. I've tried. This model does not appear in the tool, nor provide any other useful info.

Not exactly sure what you mean by help... is there functionality you want other than switching inputs?
post #37 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by erihp View Post

ok ive figured out how to switch inputs without needing an LGTV or pressing buttons on the front panel.
i made a serial cable out of these parts:
any 3.5mm stereo TRS jack or cable
db9 serial cable or connector (only need 3 wires)
paperclip + conductivity tester w/ leads or probes to test cable
connect tip of 3.5mm to pin 3 of db9
connect ring of 3.5mm to pin 2 of db9
connect sleeve of 3.5mm to pin 5 of db9
connect TRS side to "service-only" port on rear of an-wl100 main base unit (where devices connect), and db9 to serial or usbTTy device.
set baud rate to 115200 / 8bit / no parity / stop bit 1 / flow control off
turn unit on
you will not get interactive output during bootup (or when pressing enter) but when you issue the following commands you should get acknowledge and input switch:
xb 00 10 = TV ??? Very odd. I get static audio as if this thing would be capable of NTSC tuning!
xb 00 11 = DTV ??? Wonder if it can tune ATSC?
xb 00 20 = AV1
xb 00 21 = AV2
xb 00 40 = Component1
xb 00 41 = Component2
xb 00 60 = RGB/VGA
xb 00 70 = HDMI1
xb 00 71 = HDMI2
xb 00 72 = HDMI3
xb 00 73 = HDMI4
hope this helps someone!

Just wanted to thank you for all the excellent information in this thread.

I was able to get serial switching to work on the unit I purchased and have got parts on the way to set up an ir to serial remote control so I can do this without a pc. i was never able to get the front panel to switch reliably once it was powered up...

I did find one thing out during my testing of the unit. It appears that the unit will not switch inputs when using serial commands unless you have an hdmi or rgb connection hooked up. I spent a fair amount of time trying to get it to work with an a/v cable hooked up and was pulling my hair out.

I ended up needing a baum rate of 9600 and the rest of your commands worked perfectly.

Again, great work and thanks.
post #38 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggersbowl View Post

Just wanted to thank you for all the excellent information in this thread.
I was able to get serial switching to work on the unit I purchased and have got parts on the way to set up an ir to serial remote control so I can do this without a pc. i was never able to get the front panel to switch reliably once it was powered up...
I did find one thing out during my testing of the unit. It appears that the unit will not switch inputs when using serial commands unless you have an hdmi or rgb connection hooked up. I spent a fair amount of time trying to get it to work with an a/v cable hooked up and was pulling my hair out.
I ended up needing a baum rate of 9600 and the rest of your commands worked perfectly.
Again, great work and thanks.

hi! thanks. glad this solved the front input panel problem for you.

i will need to test for the experience you had re: media type. did not notice that to be the case but it is certainly possible as i did not specifically test for this myself.

thanks for providing another data point about the baud rate. but one question i have is if you know if your device was ever connected to an LGTV as designed? trying to find out why one of my units needs 115200 and the other 9600 confused.gif


out of curiosity, what do you plan to use for your ir -> serial circuit?
post #39 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by erihp View Post

hi! thanks. glad this solved the front input panel problem for you.
i will need to test for the experience you had re: media type. did not notice that to be the case but it is certainly possible as i did not specifically test for this myself.
thanks for providing another data point about the baud rate. but one question i have is if you know if your device was ever connected to an LGTV as designed? trying to find out why one of my units needs 115200 and the other 9600 confused.gif
out of curiosity, what do you plan to use for your ir -> serial circuit?

The unit was brand new out of the box and never hooked up to an LG tv.

I am going to use an arduino to receive the ir signals from a universal remote and turn them into serial output. I am pretty sure I can get this will work...

If you have any other ideas, I would love to hear them.
post #40 of 74
T
Quote:
Originally Posted by dublus View Post

I agree 100% with your conclusion that it must be something I'm doing different than everyone else (and I truly appreciate your work in publishing the serial codes and letting me cry on your shoulder).
I am well known where I work for being undeviatingly devoted to going "wherever the data takes me" and when everyone except me has this working one way and I have it working (with two different units) another way, as much as I would like to believe otherwise, I MUST conclude it is something about my setup. But what?
I have a 4 channel (2 variable, 2 5VDC fixed) power supply set at 18.5 VDC @ 0.5 Amps. HDMI handshake, green screen.
I have a few leftover laptop supplies that are all "around" 19 VDC. HDMI handshake, green screen.
In every case I have been using the thicker black wire as ground and the thicker red wire as supply. Other than that, what else is there to do differently (I could try the thicker white wire as supply)? At the very least, I should be able to just connect the receiving unit to a monitor (with the sending unit off) and get the bouncing logo. That's pretty much where everyone else "starts" and I can't even get past that point.
So, you can see where I might be a little frustrated... I am more than willing to accept that it is something I'm doing "wrong" but, as far as I can tell, there isn't anything else I can do different than what I've already done.

This may be a very simple thing you missed but I had the same issue as you did, but I used a TV that only displays 720p and it would show either a green screen or a black screen. Is your output device 1080?
post #41 of 74
I've written a batch file to switch inputs on the AN-WL100. It uses telnet to connect to a remote computer that should be hooked via the service port to the LG. I of course offer no warranty with this, but works for me (tested on two units). Error handling doesn't work well within the batch file (if the command fails to send, the batch file may just hang).

I would make sure that you can successfully send commands via a serial port to the LG before using this. It has a couple requirements:

  1. You must have a serial port connection to the LG (of course).

  2. It uses telnet to remotely connect to the serial port of the computer connected to the LG. I use this program to make the com port so I can telnet to it. The reason I used telnet is so I can use a laptop or other computer to switch the input without being on the actual computer hooked to the LG.

    http://www.elifulkerson.com/projects/telnet-serial-bridge.php

    I downloaded the 2nd file (.zip server with the .exe)

    To get this working: download the .zip file and extract it. Next create a shortcut to the program with the correct flags (-p selects which com port to use, -l selects the port to use and -r is the baud rate).

    What I use:
    C:\tsb-multi\tsb-multi.exe -p 2 -l 23003 -r 9600

  3. Next this program needs to be in the same directory as the batch file. The batch file uses this as a telnet client to send the commands. It doesn't really have an installer, just make sure it's in the same directory as the batch file.

    http://support.moonpoint.com/downloads/windows/network/Telnet/tst10.php


Again, this program will telnet to the computer connected to the LG. Therefore, on startup it asks for the ip address and port of the host computer to connect to.

Tip:
If you edit the following two lines of the batch file with the correct IP/port it won't ask on startup again:

set ipaddress=ENTER_IP_HERE
set port=ENTER_PORT_NUMBER_HERE

If you have any questions, feedback or suggestions, let me know.


Here is the batch file, just copy paste the text to a file with a .bat or .cmd extension:
Code:
::This batch script comes with no warranty.  If you break it, it's not my fault.

@echo off
::This script will telnet to the specified IP address and port.
::If you put in your IP and port below, the batch file won't ask you for it again.
set ipaddress=ENTER_IP_HERE
set port=ENTER_PORT_NUMBER_HERE

:chooseip
if '%ipaddress%'=='ENTER_IP_HERE' goto askforip
goto chooseport

:askforip
set /p ipaddress="What is the computer's IP address? "
echo %ipaddress%
goto chooseport

:chooseport
if '%port%'=='ENTER_PORT_NUMBER_HERE' goto askforport
goto chooseinput

:askforport
set /p port="What port do you want to use? "
echo %port%
goto chooseinput


:chooseinput
ECHO OFF
cls
ECHO.
echo Which input would you like to switch to?
echo.
ECHO 1. HDMI 1
ECHO 2. HDMI 2
ECHO 3. HDMI 3
ECHO 4. HDMI 4
ECHO 5. AV 1
ECHO 6. AV 2
ECHO 7. Component 1
ECHO 8. Component 2
ECHO 9. VGA
ECHO.
ECHO 0. Choose new IP Address and Port Number
ECHO.
ECHO q. Quit
echo.

set /p inputchoice=Choose an option.
if not '%inputchoice%'=='' set inputchoice=%inputchoice:~0,1%
if '%inputchoice%'=='1' goto sethdmi1
if '%inputchoice%'=='2' goto sethdmi2
if '%inputchoice%'=='3' goto sethdmi3
if '%inputchoice%'=='4' goto sethdmi4
if '%inputchoice%'=='5' goto setav1
if '%inputchoice%'=='6' goto setav2
if '%inputchoice%'=='7' goto setcomponent1
if '%inputchoice%'=='8' goto setcomponent2
if '%inputchoice%'=='9' goto setvga
if '%inputchoice%'=='0' goto newipandport
if '%inputchoice%'=='q' goto DONE
ECHO "%inputchoice%" is not valid please try again
ECHO.
goto chooseinput


:setav1
set inputlabel=AV 1
set input=20
goto sendinput

:setav2
set inputlabel=AV 2
set input=21
goto sendinput

:setcomponent1
set inputlabel=Component 1
set input=40
goto sendinput

:setcomponent2
set inputlabel=Component 2
set input=41
goto sendinput

:setvga
set inputlabel=VGA
set input=60
goto sendinput

:sethdmi1
set inputlabel=HDMI 1
set input=70
goto sendinput

:sethdmi2
set inputlabel=HDMI 2
set input=71
goto sendinput

:sethdmi3
set inputlabel=HDMI 3
set input=72
goto sendinput

:sethdmi4
set inputlabel=HDMI 4
set input=73
goto sendinput

:newipandport
set ipaddress=ENTER_IP_HERE
set port=ENTER_PORT_NUMBER_HERE
cls
goto chooseip


:sendinput
cls
del /q script.txt
del /q output.txt
cls
echo %input%
echo %inputlabel%
echo %ipaddress% %port%>script.txt
echo WAIT "You are now connected to COM">>script.txt
echo SEND "xb 00 %input%\m">>script.txt
echo WAIT "b 01 OK%input%x">>script.txt
TST10.exe /r:script.txt /o:output.txt /m
del /q script.txt
del /q output.txt
if %errorlevel% GTR 0 goto FAIL
cls
echo.
echo The input has been changed to: %inputlabel%.
echo.
pause
goto chooseinput

:FAIL
del /q script.txt
del /q output.txt
verify >nul
cls
ECHO.
echo ............An Error Occured............
echo.
echo m. Go back to main menu
ECHO q. Quit

set /p choicefail=Choose an option.
if not '%choicefail%'=='' set choicefail=%choicefail:~0,1%
if '%choicefail%'=='m' goto chooseinput
if '%choicefail%'=='q' goto DONE
ECHO "%choicefail%" is not valid please try again
ECHO.
goto FAIL

:DONE
del /q script.txt
del /q output.txt
cls
echo exit
post #42 of 74
Very good information here.

I am having a problem that I was wondering if anyone else is having. If I turn off the TV and turn it back on, it has very green screen.....you can see the program, but everything is green. I unplug the receiver and plug it back up and it works again. It is like the tv has to be on before the receiver for the hdmi to work correctly. It is a cheap Sanyo tv though.

Any thoughts?

AK
post #43 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by ak74 View Post

Very good information here.
I am having a problem that I was wondering if anyone else is having. If I turn off the TV and turn it back on, it has very green screen.....you can see the program, but everything is green. I unplug the receiver and plug it back up and it works again. It is like the tv has to be on before the receiver for the hdmi to work correctly. It is a cheap Sanyo tv though.
Any thoughts?
AK

I noted and tested the scenarios where the green screen effect happens. I have not discovered a way to 'fix' the problem aside from power cycling.

More detail here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1314796/anybody-get-lg-an-wl100-to-work-on-non-lg-tvs#post_22567576
post #44 of 74
I'm behind all you dudes. And with all the "out-of-towners" visiting I can get only very limited access to the TV.
It is also the only HDMI device in the house besides this monitor. So, I'm stuck for now.

However, I did get an hour to set up and try it. I couldn't get anything on the TV screen. It just reported "no sync".

I had a power supply set to 18.5 volts with a milliamp meter display. I noticed that with the dongle powered up and the main box shut down the dongle current jumped between 200ma and 300ma about once a second. When I powered up the main box and the "Wireless" LED was on solid, the dongle power went to 400ma (approx.) and no longer jumped around.

Did anybody else notice anything like that?

Don't make any special tests for me. I am just trying to make a few steps forward until I can get my TV back from the visitors.

Also, does the main box give any indication of which line is selected?

The butttons on my main box are all the same brightness all the time.

Thanks In Advance,

Pete
post #45 of 74
erihp......I read your post but before I had the wireless receiver connected and I didn't understand it at the time.

What hardware are you using to connect the computer to the db9 plug? USB to Serial adapter? None of my computers have a serial db9 connector. Building an IR control to switch inputs would be a fun project but I know that I will only switch inputs rarely.

It would be nice to be able to use one transmitter with more than one receiver, but I don't think it would be feasible.
post #46 of 74
I might be able to provide some information regarding baud rate. Mine switched from 9600 to 115200.

I discovered that it was running at 9600 baud (See below for how I discovered that).
I could type the commands for selecting inputs and get back that it was succeessful.

Then I tried the Adjustment procedure on page 8 of the Service manual.
Well, when I typed the first instruction, "aa 000 00", I got back a single garbage character and then nothing worked after that.

Using a scope I saw that it was sending a "garbage" character every now and then in response to my holding down the Enter key.
When I triggered on the start bit of the garbage character I discovered that it was about 90us wide or 11500 baud.

I switched Hyperterminal to 11500 baud and my commands worked again. I haven't hit on anything that switches it back to 9600.

**************** How I discovered the initial 9600 baud rate************

Initially I couldn't get it to respond at any baud rate. But that was because I expected it to be echoing each character.
It doesn't do that. What you type doesn't show in hyperterminal unless you go to Settings, ASCII setup and select "Echo typed characters locally".
May as well select "Send Line ends with line feeds and Append line feeds to incoming line ends" also.

Still I couldn't get any responses. I downloaded the lgrs232 program noted above and selected "New Device".
I tried a few of the commands listed there and darn, the Power Off command worked (aa 01 00). Power On didn't work.
I saw that the progam said it was running at 9600 baud and I confirmed that with a scope.
So I set Hyperterminal to 9600 and now I could get acknowledges from the box.

I still can't get anything but "No Sync Signal" on my TV.
post #47 of 74
Just a few questions to help me understand my problem.

I can't get anything but "No Sync Signal" on my TV screen.

Should I see a green screen and logo if just the dongle is powered up, without the base station?

Does the base station indicate which channel it is "forwarding" to the dongle? Like make that item brighter then the others? (I am sending serial commands and getting "OK" back.)

Thanks In Advance,

Pete
post #48 of 74
Powering up without the base station for me doesn't give a green screen or anything. Nothing is detected. The base station also doesn't give an indication of what it is forwarding. If the base station is on and an input is selected it should either display the input on the receiver's end or have an lg cube that says "No Signal" . "No Signal Sync" sounds like your tv's default indication that it is getting nothing from that input. You said earlier that the "wireless" light on the base station stays lit, that should indicate that it has found the receiver. If it blinks, it's usually searching, if it stays lit, it's found the receiver. If I can't get anything, I usually unplug both the receiver and base station, plug in the base station while rapidly tapping the input I want, and only after that do I plug in the receiver. Try moving the receiver closer to the base station as well, it could possibly be a range issue. Also consider trying a different hdmi cable.

My wl100 was also at 9600 baud rate, but has mysteriously switched to 115200. I haven't found a way to switch it back to 9600, but it seems to be operating ok. I own 3 now and have tested two. They both started at 9600 with just one of the two switching to 115200. I think that was after experimenting with sending different commands.
post #49 of 74
My experience was that after a few minutes of keeping a scrambled picture it magically started showing a good quality picture but picture only and no audio. I found that I had plugged into the wrong audio out on my dish box and was all excited that I was going to get it working, however as soon as I plugged into the right audio output and turned everything back on I got ONLY audio and no picture, I did not do anything to the component connection I had before. I was able to get both audio and good picture connecting my diskh 722k to the transmitter via HDMI but do not want to do that want the HDMI connected to main TV and component to this transmitter to send signal to downstairs TV. So I will have to keep trying to figure it out. Seems like about 50/50 with everyone trying to get theirs to work. FYI I powered my receiver with a 12V 2A power supply and that does not seem to be the problem.
post #50 of 74
Firedog,

I had a similar problem. When I used the Component connection ( the one that uses 3 rca jacks for video ) I had either video or sound. I thought I might have a bad cable, but just connected the Component to the TV and the HDMI to the LG base transmitter. I googled and found that component video will carry full HD video. Don't know about 3d though, don't have any 3d equipment.

Hope this helps
post #51 of 74
Ok played around again today for about an hour and got same results over and over. Connecting from Dish 722 receiver to transmitter via component cable and 2 AV cable for audio yielded sound but no picture. If I unhooked the AV audio I would get picture but obviously no sound. With HDMI cable from TV1 output of Dish receiver to LG transmitter everything worked fine but I need that output for my main TV. Then finally I decided to connect from TV2 out AV video and R+L AV audio and it worked fine. I have settled for this. I am assuming the picture quality is the same, in theory the transmitter will upgrade both the AV or component the same correct? If that is the case then I am actually happier using it this way as I was also able to program an old Dish Remote to control that third TV and dish receiver from the third TV location. I have to watch the same program on the third TV and bedroom TV but that is better than having to watch the same on the main living room TV and third TV. So all and all for $25 I'm happy as long as it continues to work. I cycled it on and off several times and there were no problems, also let it run for about 5 hrs and did not seem that the receiver was heating up much as others reported, maybe because I only used 12V power supply. I still am confused as to why it would not work with component input but I'm ok with how it has worked out.
post #52 of 74
Anyone know the power off/on serial commands for the base station? I don't plan to use mine all the time and it's a completely different room that I'd rather not have to walk in there to turn the base station on/off all the time.

I have the receiver hooked up to a power controller, so I can turn it on only when it's use. I'd like to send the base station on/off serial commands as I am out of power controllers for now and if it has an on/off command I'd like to use that.

I have already tried the default TV power commands "ka 01 00" (off), no dice. Not that I can even see the RX come back, however, I'm not using a PC to send/receive, I'm using a Crestron control system.


Edit: Well, got power off to work, but can't get power on. If you have a Crestron system, you have add a \x0D delimiter to the strings.
Edited by METDeath - 1/10/13 at 1:12pm
post #53 of 74
Hi METDeath,

Could you please try sending the same commands thru the lines in the Dongle Connector cable. I think that will be a 5V/3.3v ttl signaling compared to the RS232 signals on the Base unit Debug serial port?

I also have 2 units. What I am trying to do is to build a small uC which connects to the dongle and use an IR remote to to switch the input source.

Even the I2C will be helpful but we need to know the commands.

If anyone having Netcast enabled TV can probe the lines, the whole mystery can be solved easily. We can even design pcb and fabricate it and build the IR receiver which when coupled with a $1 universal remote(dollar tree) should do what we want. The whole setup should cost $5-$6 (a PIC or AVR uC, a IR module, few resistors, a Voltage regulator(for stepping down for 12-18V to 3.3-5V for uC)

Just a wish....smile.gif

Thanks
post #54 of 74
I was actually thinking about connecting to the large gauge white/green wires (most likely the IR or 232 wires the TV uses to talk to the receiver). However, my current research has lead me to believe that physically powering on the unit is the only way to turn it on.

At least, that's what I gather from reading the manual. Plus, as I said, the command for Off works just fine. I've also tried sending it the same TV IR commands for on/power toggle, but to no avail. I am going to try to hunt up older IR codes, but I doubt it will be any different.
post #55 of 74
During the weekend I Just did some more research and also managed to open up the Base unit. It looks like a very capable unit. Seems to be a pretty good Linux running box with a MStar Saturn 7 Mips CPU. The toolchain in available in openlgtv website (http://openlgtv.org.ru/wiki/index.php/Opensource_packages_list). Another thing that interested me is the Wifi transmitter module. As per the block diagram I2S signal for audio and LVDS signal for video is connected to the WIFI board transmission. The reason why it interested me is that there is a USB host port and reset button(may be used for pairing with the dongle at factory) in that Wireless board as well. Two linux running computers in this Box??

Also there are couple of headers in the main board as well as in the Wireless board.




I'm not getting enough time to do some more investigation and I don't have my tools with me. So if someone have some time and the tools please start some mod work on these gems.
post #56 of 74
Hi METDeath,

Did you just said that the command for power off worked when you tried to send it thru the dongle IR/Serial lines?
post #57 of 74
I used the Service port on the back. Haven't cut into the heat shrink on my receiver (I do pretty work).

However, I noticed that it "remembered" power states when physically removed from power, so I am thinking I will just use a power controller for on/off
post #58 of 74
Heat sink?? you don't have to open the dongle. You can try connecting the cable TX/TX lines to the PC and do the same thing and if that works it will be easy enough. But for that you may need a TTL to usb adapter rather than a RS232 to usb if you are using a usb-serial. If you are using a PC with a serial port you may need a MAX232 based 3v3 to rs232 adapter for the same. I'm presuming the RX/TX lines in the Dongle cable to be TTL signals. But that can be easily probed using a multimeter I guess.

Anybody can help probing those signals??
post #59 of 74
Heat Shrink I put it over the wires and the whole cable to make it look like a finished cable. So the receiver looks like it's supposed to be the way it is.

I have a control system that has one of it's 232 ports hooked up to the Transmitter (where all the video input connections are), that is how I control my inputs.
post #60 of 74
Ok ok. So you almost did the finishing touch to your hack. Great...smile.gif. If you have some time and tools to probe the signals please try it and update the post. I think the serial link should do some magic. Any body from LG who knows more about the wireless Transmitter and receiver??? Was surprised to see USB host port in the wireless transmitter !!!! It certainly should be programmable. One more thing. Once you are in the console if you type "debug" it will display the debug menu and from there if you type "sh" it will give a proper linux shell. Could you please provide a listing of the serial ports: ls /dev/tty*

I think there will be atleast two ttyS devices one for debug on the back and another for wireless transmission as per the Schematic.

and if you can type fuser /dev/ttyS1 it should provide the name of the process which opens the second serial port.

and then if you do strace of that process we should be able to to trace the bytes. But that is a long shot. Easier will be to have some one with netcast to probe the traffic. Much easier will be to have the programmer who did work on this abandoned device show us some light.... What a wish haaaan smile.gif)

Oh by the way one of the connectors in the main board is an Ethernet interface. But you need a Ethernet PHY to interface that to a Router or switch.
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