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One way to minimize DLP Link rainbows

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 
Initial test - pretty good!

I got a sheet of acetate (clear, thin film) from a local print shop, then carefully cut out the shape of the lens from my UC DLP Link glasses. I then put the cut out film pieces on the front of my UC glasses. The cut pieces of film are held in place by sort of snap fitting on top of the front of each lens. Hard to explain, but there is a small gap between the lens and the frame where the film can slip into place. No tape, invisible, and actually adds a layer of protection from scratches to the front of the glasses.

I guess the acetate does something to the light to diffuse the rainbow, as it is 98% gone with the added film layer. The picture is slightly dulled and moving your head around causes some rainbow patterns to appear while moving. Even with these added minor annoyances, it was the best 3D experience I've had on my set to date.

I'd give this a 7/10 on the homemade fix scale. I'd love to test it with wave retarder film instead of plain acetate. I'm still working on improving this technique, any suggests are welcome.
LL
post #2 of 27
Thank you for the write-up.
Looking forward to try it out myself.
post #3 of 27
Thread Starter 
I just changed the material from acetate to a 3M laminate sheet. There is no rainbow or any other problems - I think we have a winner! Next week I'll put up a template to print out, then someone else can try it out for more feedback on how it works. I'm also considering sending that out to a few members here with UC DLP link glasses for free if you mail me a SASE. Let me know if there is any interest.
post #4 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

I just changed the material from acetate to a 3M laminate sheet. There is no rainbow or any other problems - I think we have a winner! Next week I'll put up a template to print out, then someone else can try it out for more feedback on how it works. I'm also considering sending that out to a few members here with UC DLP link glasses for free if you mail me a SASE. Let me know if there is any interest.

That sounds cool. Where did you get the laminate? Is it the same stuff they sell in stores for business cards, documents etc? Surely you did not put the sticky stuff on there?
post #5 of 27
Thread Starter 
It was simple 3M laminate that you can buy in any supply store. I'll look at the box when I get home for the exact info. It is like two sheets of film that you put something in the middle then put it through a laminating machine to heat it up so it sticks together. This stuff has no sticky layer on it to start. Since it is never heated it never sticks to anything. It was just one of the those materials I had laying around the house so I gave it a try. It worked better then I ever expected.

DO NOT USE THE STICKY STUFF!!!!
post #6 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post
Initial test - pretty good!

I got a sheet of acetate (clear, thin film) from a local print shop, then carefully cut out the shape of the lens from my UC DLP Link glasses. I then put the cut out film pieces on the front of my UC glasses. The cut pieces of film are held in place by sort of snap fitting on top of the front of each lens. Hard to explain, but there is a small gap between the lens and the frame where the film can slip into place. No tape, invisible, and actually adds a layer of protection from scratches to the front of the glasses.

I guess the acetate does something to the light to diffuse the rainbow, as it is 98% gone with the added film layer. The picture is slightly dulled and moving your head around causes some rainbow patterns to appear while moving. Even with these added minor annoyances, it was the best 3D experience I've had on my set to date.

I'd give this a 7/10 on the homemade fix scale. I'd love to test it with wave retarder film instead of plain acetate. I'm still working on improving this technique, any suggests are welcome.
You have already started a thread like that and I have answered your question.
Did you have a problem finding your own post?

Here is the link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post20003248

Mathew Orman
post #7 of 27
Thread Starter 
Thanks, I was wondering where that was hiding. Sorry for making a new thread that clearly stated in the title that I found an affordable fix for the rainbow issue. I hope the extra thread didn't ruin your day, sorry for helping.

BTW - retarder film costs like $150 a sheet:
http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...m=1&StartRow=1

Laminate costs about 25 cents for a sheet of it.
The first thread was discussing the possibility of fixing the polarization rainbow issue, this thread is to let people know it actually works. Since it actually fixes a huge problem for a number of people I thought it deserved its own thread.
post #8 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post
Thanks, I was wondering where that was hiding. Sorry for making a new thread that clearly stated in the title that I found an affordable fix for the rainbow issue. I hope the extra thread didn't ruin your day, sorry for helping.

BTW - retarder film costs like $150 a sheet:
http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...m=1&StartRow=1

Laminate costs about 25 cents for a sheet of it.
The first thread was discussing the possibility of fixing the polarization rainbow issue, this thread is to let people know it actually works. Since it actually fixes a huge problem for a number of people I thought it deserved its own thread.
thanks for the info. I will try it with transparency sheet. I should have it around somewhere.

thanks again!
post #9 of 27
Thread Starter 
Let me know how it works out for you! I was very impressed with my results.
post #10 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Thanks, I was wondering where that was hiding. Sorry for making a new thread that clearly stated in the title that I found an affordable fix for the rainbow issue. I hope the extra thread didn't ruin your day, sorry for helping.

BTW - retarder film costs like $150 a sheet:
http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...m=1&StartRow=1

Laminate costs about 25 cents for a sheet of it.
The first thread was discussing the possibility of fixing the polarization rainbow issue, this thread is to let people know it actually works. Since it actually fixes a huge problem for a number of people I thought it deserved its own thread.

I have posted that you could use just any thin film and only dependent on the thickness. And also give an option of retarder which guarantees the best results without any effort. The retarder can be purchased is small cuts for around US5.00 from Edmund Scientific industrial division.

Here is another source of commercial retarder films:

http://www.optigrafix.com/halfwave_film.htm

Here you can purchase with more options:

http://www.anchoroptics.com/catalog/product.cfm?id=303

Mathew Orman
post #11 of 27
Silly question... would putting a large sheet over the front of the TV screen have the same effect?
post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick [D]vB View Post

Silly question... would putting a large sheet over the front of the TV screen have the same effect?

Yes,
but there will be some reflections introduced and would kill the anti reflection coating function of your TV's screen.

Mathew Orman
post #13 of 27
Thread Starter 
The next step is to find the thinnest, most transparent piece of film available with an anti-reflective coating on it. I'll also put up a template eventually to help with cutting out the lens shape on the UltraClear glasses. I don't have any other glasses so you are on your own with anything other the UltraClears.
post #14 of 27
Thread Starter 
The template and directions are attached.

FYI: I used a 3M laminating pouch where only the bottom layer is sticky, so I used the top layer without the adhesive. It is thin and transparent, so there is no tinting to the TV's picture. The transparency film is slightly more reflective then I'd like, but I haven't found a better substitute just yet.

 

UCLenses_Layout 1.pdf 50.4130859375k . file
post #15 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

The template and directions are attached.

FYI: I used a 3M laminating pouch where only the bottom layer is sticky, so I used the top layer without the adhesive. It is thin and transparent, so there is no tinting to the TV's picture. The transparency film is slightly more reflective then I'd like, but I haven't found a better substitute just yet.


Good stuff!! Thanks for the info! I will give this a try.
post #16 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Let me know how it works out for you! I was very impressed with my results.

Transparency film works great!... I've tried few different brands and types with varying thickness of the sheet and they were all effective removing rainbow from the bright scenes with UC DLP glasses. Rainbow was not too severe on my HL67A750, but it is gone now. I will cut the sheet based on your template.



Thanks again for starting this thread.
post #17 of 27
Thread Starter 
Nice - I'm glad to hear that this is working for others as well!

My next thought is to try a iPad protector or monitor protector film instead of a transparency sheet. These would have an anti-glare coating which is badly needed. I am just worried that the silicone adhesive would stick too much to the lens.

But for now, the laminate does work wonders!

EDIT - I got another set of glasses and did this technique, but only one lens worked. I still had a slight rainbow. So I removed the one sheet of film and cut another one down, and this time it worked. So I guess there are angles where even the film does nothing.

Non bump edit - Just ordered an anti-glare iPad protector film for a few bucks. I am hoping this thin, transparent, anti-glare film will eliminate the rainbows without all the glare and reflections. I will definately test them on my sunglasses lenses before attaching them to the UC lenses.
post #18 of 27
Hi, does the technique solved the color shift issue when you look at the side of the glasses? Also, any update on using iPad or iPod screen protector? The color shift start to bother me and I had to hold my head still straight to the screen to minimize the problem.
post #19 of 27
Thread Starter 
The color shift is a separate problem that the film overlay will not solve, it only works to remove the polarization rainbow. You have to go with different glasses if the color shifting is too annoying to you.

The iPad screen protector was a massive failure. I learned something about anti-glare film, it isn't transparent. When you remove the top layer the film becomes cloudy and worthless. I am done messing around for now as the transparency works good enough. My rainbows are gone so I'm happy.
post #20 of 27
I checked most the review and seems like almost all DLP Link glasses had color shift issue at certain angle. Even the CrystalEyes 5 had color shift issue when look up at certain degrees according to some owners. I don't have rainbow issue as I'm using DLP projector. I actually looking at some anti glare screen protector that allow 94% light transmission. Don't use the normal matte screen protector as I can see it blur out the reflection using uneven surface. I'll try out Photodon Anti Glare HD and Crystal Clear film as I had bit of internal glasses reflection due to no anti glare coating.
post #21 of 27
Anybody thinking about doing this, it works very well. I just wanted to give my 2 cents.
post #22 of 27
so this works on DLP RPTV, NOT DLP front projector, right?

regards,

Li On
post #23 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebat68 View Post

Anybody thinking about doing this, it works very well. I just wanted to give my 2 cents.

Which method did you use? The 3M laminate, or the transparency sheet? I just ordered a pair of UC DLP glasses. Got a pair of Optomas as my first set, but immediately saw the rainbows on my HL61A750. Since I can't turn off the DLP Link flash, I'm assuming that DLP Link glasses are my best choice, but the rainbows are very distracting for me. Hopefully this works. Does it matter what transparency film you get?
post #24 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

I just changed the material from acetate to a 3M laminate sheet. There is no rainbow or any other problems - I think we have a winner! Next week I'll put up a template to print out, then someone else can try it out for more feedback on how it works. I'm also considering sending that out to a few members here with UC DLP link glasses for free if you mail me a SASE. Let me know if there is any interest.

Hi, I tried using a thermal laminate tonight - but I could only find the Scotch brand. It failed badly as the material was actually cloudy and rendered me nearly blind when I had it on lol. Do you have any of that 3M left? If you do, could you send some to me? I could PM my address and send you a paid return envelope if you wish...I might try one last gasp at my local Kinkos to see if they have the 3M as well.
post #25 of 27
Ok I figured out I had to use the non-thermal sheet, and use the non-sticky side of course. It got rid of most of the rainbows, but on a very bright scene it is still slightly visible. I tried to find the 3M but had to use the Scotch. Wonder if the 3M would work better? I mean, it is A LOT better now anyway.
post #26 of 27
Thread Starter 
If you want a piece of my laminate sheet PM your address and I can send you a sheet of what I'm using, but as the thread title suggests it doesn't fully fix the issue, it just "minimizes" it. Sounds like your results are about the same as mine.
post #27 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

If you want a piece of my laminate sheet PM your address and I can send you a sheet of what I'm using, but as the thread title suggests it doesn't fully fix the issue, it just "minimizes" it. Sounds like your results are about the same as mine.

Gotcha, it is much better and I don't think 3M vs. Scotch would make much of a difference. Thanks again for the tip and this thread!
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