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Just Another Guy Just Another Home Theater......Version 2.0 - Page 8

post #211 of 1001
4/15/11 at 11:35am
anything u do with Drywall...make sure its straight and not bowed...especially at the location you want to put crown molding or something....
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post #212 of 1001
4/15/11 at 11:48am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post


I still like both - initially when Black Ops came out, I didn't like it as much, but now prefer it slightly - mainly because every game isn't filled with noob tubes and full auto shotguns that kill in one shot even if you miss by 6 feet.

Brad I agree noob tubes are somewhat annoying but I also admit I use them sometimes since going from a 42" plasma to a 120"+ projected image and back to the plasma can really affect my game play and I go back and forth alot depending on which tv is available (we have 2 xbox's). Black ops is a little too over the top as far as how many bullets you have to spray ro get a kill but then again I'm not that good lol
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post #213 of 1001
4/15/11 at 12:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

but then again I'm not that good lol

We should play

j/k, I'm not that hot myself - I do pretty good in Free For All, because that's what I almost always play - but not so good on other types, because I like to run around a lot - running around a lot is fine when you keep running into 1-on-1s, but not when you run into 1-on-4 when the whole other team is charging or camping.
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post #214 of 1001
4/15/11 at 1:00pm
awww now i have to get CoD so i can whup up on ya'll....

Actually im sure theres a huge learning curve...the only FPS ive played to any length on counsel is Halo...and the last Military shooter i played was Battlefield 2 on PC....lol...
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post #215 of 1001
4/15/11 at 1:39pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

We should play

j/k, I'm not that hot myself - I do pretty good in Free For All, because that's what I almost always play - but not so good on other types, because I like to run around a lot - running around a lot is fine when you keep running into 1-on-1s, but not when you run into 1-on-4 when the whole other team is charging or camping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post

awww now i have to get CoD so i can whup up on ya'll....

Actually im sure theres a huge learning curve...the only FPS ive played to any length on counsel is Halo...and the last Military shooter i played was Battlefield 2 on PC....lol...


You will both more than likely do damage to me as I am not all that good. The best part is when you get schooled by a 12 year old (or group of them) and they have to listen to them talk trash

On a side note I now know a few more people that WONT be getting anything done in their theater anytime soon.....
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post #216 of 1001
4/15/11 at 3:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

You will both more than likely do damage to me as I am not all that good. The best part is when you get schooled by a 12 year old (or group of them) and they have to listen to them talk trash

I never play Halo with the mic on...i cant stand to hear 99% of the people. If the kids that play on Live are any indication of our future...God help us....God help us all....
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post #217 of 1001
4/16/11 at 9:28am
I have GOT to pick me up a gaming console now that I have finished my room. It was always my intention to do so, but its been 3 years now!!!
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post #218 of 1001
4/17/11 at 4:05pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

I have GOT to pick me up a gaming console now that I have finished my room. It was always my intention to do so, but its been 3 years now!!!

Couldnt agree more......so what are you waiting for?

On a side note I have done a little work in the original theater over the weekend including taking down the pj , patched some holes where the original riser was that I recently removed and reran some new wiring for the future of this room. I have a question as I am looking for opinions. I will attach a picture for reference but this space is the cut out that I created waaaaaay back in theater 1 for those that have been on board that long, it was where the seats were but will now be home to the tv in the rooms new use. I want to build a "built-in" out of mdf for the entire opening. The question is I plan on making this in 3 parts. The first 2 will be basic bookcases on the left and right with mdf sides and back with shelves. The 3rd section will be the middle section that the tv will sit on, the question is should the middle section have an enclosed back the same as the side bookcases or should I just build a shorter one (tv stand) and attach it to the left and right bookcase? Make sense??

Here is the best picture i have of the opening.
[IMG][/IMG]
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post #219 of 1001
4/17/11 at 4:10pm
I used to have an entertainment unit where it has two tall bookcases on the sides, and then a half high set of drawers in the middle - tv sat on that part - then a couple shelves that spanned across the top (and height was adjustable). Worked pretty well.
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post #220 of 1001
4/17/11 at 5:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

I still like both - initially when Black Ops came out, I didn't like it as much, but now prefer it slightly - mainly because every game isn't filled with noob tubes and full auto shotguns that kill in one shot even if you miss by 6 feet.

Remember...they call it a nub tube because it is designed to kill nubs..who then QQ about it.

As an aside, do you know where the term NUB come from? It is an old military term meaning Non Usefull Body. NUB.
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post #221 of 1001
4/17/11 at 6:04pm
Steve,

I would leave the middle part backless. I think I get what you are saying and if I am picturing it correctly I would just leave it open.

For the record one of my favorite acronyms is JAFO or FNG works as well. Oh while were at it SNAFU and FUBAR fit the bill nicely as well. I guess that is my four favorite ones anyway!

I should not be such a potty mouth on your family thread should I?

Regards,

RTROSE
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post #222 of 1001
4/18/11 at 7:37am
What kind of equipment are you going to be running with the TV? and where you gonna put it?

I think most designs like that are open to the back for the TV, but if all your equipment is either above or below or even to the side, you could easily cut cable chases, it wouldnt HAVE to open unless you just wanted it to be. You'll probably get a more "built in" look with the back enclosed...but thats just my opinion.

You either have the most haunted house in america, or you've kicked up some construction dust!
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post #223 of 1001
4/18/11 at 10:28am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post

What kind of equipment are you going to be running with the TV? and where you gonna put it?

I think most designs like that are open to the back for the TV, but if all your equipment is either above or below or even to the side, you could easily cut cable chases, it wouldnt HAVE to open unless you just wanted it to be. You'll probably get a more "built in" look with the back enclosed...but thats just my opinion.

You either have the most haunted house in america, or you've kicked up some construction dust!

Actually I plan to leave my equipment (AVR, BDP and secondary xbox) in the original built in that I made for theater 1.0. All I have basically done is flip the room. I took the pj down, dropped its hdmi cable to where the theater seats were and plan to construct a built in there. I will attach a picture of the original rack to remind those that were not with me at that time

I think I will basically build this as 3 seperate bookcases with the middle one being shorter to be used as the tv stand. I am thinking I will just use some sort of 1/4" ply as a back and paint it the same color as the mdf and call it a day. I dont need to run any cables so I prefer the "finished" look of the enclosed back.

Here is one from a distance to show the rack and where the built in will be

And a closer look of the reason I will be going MA in 2.0
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post #224 of 1001
4/19/11 at 10:40am
Thread Starter 
Construction question regarding the built in unit I am attempting!

I am using 3/4" mdf to create 3 "boxes" that I will slide into the opening and attach. The "boxes" are 79" tall x 14" deep. On the side "boxes" (think 2 bookcases)they are 38 3/4" wide (left to right). I used 1 1/4" brad nails and wood glue to make a top and bottom to create a "box". My question is they are a bit unstable right now what can I do to reinforce the "boxes" without jeopardizing the bookcase look that I am after? I plan to attach 1/4" panel/ply to the backs to enclose them. Maybe that will be enough or maybe I should install one more "permanent" shelf in the middle of each one? The rest will be adjustable.
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post #225 of 1001
4/19/11 at 11:20am
The 1/4 plywood on the back will stiffen them up plenty once thats on there, especially if you decide to attach the shelves to the wall. If you are concerned about structural integrity, i do like your idea of a permanent middle shelf. If you worried about the interim, just tack a couple pieces of scrap wood across the back with a brad nail or two each as temporary bracing to help keep them from being so wobbly.
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post #226 of 1001
4/19/11 at 1:06pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post
The 1/4 plywood on the back will stiffen them up plenty once thats on there, especially if you decide to attach the shelves to the wall. If you are concerned about structural integrity, i do like your idea of a permanent middle shelf. If you worried about the interim, just tack a couple pieces of scrap wood across the back with a brad nail or two each as temporary bracing to help keep them from being so wobbly.
When will you be coming up to help and pick up.........
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post #227 of 1001
4/19/11 at 1:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post
When will you be coming up to help and pick up.........
Depends on when the beer gets cold...lol.
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post #228 of 1001
4/19/11 at 1:32pm
Kreg Jig. Relatively cheap and easy. Even I could use it, so ... yeah.
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post #229 of 1001
4/19/11 at 6:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post

Depends on when the beer gets cold...lol.

Its always cold here just let me know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hanesian View Post

Kreg Jig. Relatively cheap and easy. Even I could use it, so ... yeah.

I've been contemplating getting one of those but havent been able to personally justify the cost as those babies arent cheap.
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post #230 of 1001
4/19/11 at 6:16pm
Thread Starter 
Some progress to report. I have been working on the original theater side and constructing some sort of built in to fill the open area where the seats "used" to be.....pics coming soon.

Also drywall hanging has taken place which means I am almost done...........wait thats not true. It means I have just begun!!
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post #231 of 1001
4/19/11 at 6:33pm
Steve,

I like the middle "permanent" shelf idea as I think it will add stability to your shelving units.

Looking forward to seeing some progress photos.

Regards,

RTROSE
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post #232 of 1001
4/19/11 at 6:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

I've been contemplating getting one of those but havent been able to personally justify the cost as those babies arent cheap.

The simple jigs aren't too bad. This one is just a simple two hole model that is similar to the one I have, it goes for about $40. It really does the trick.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket...3264161&sr=8-3
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post #233 of 1001
4/21/11 at 1:17pm
Thread Starter 
Here is a rookie question (or two).

What is the best method to attach the built ins to the wall through the mdf and not have the fastener visible? And what can I use to secure the 3 sections to one another once they are in their location?
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post #234 of 1001
4/21/11 at 2:36pm
Do you want the right way...or the McGyver way? lol...you could use paper clips and bubble gum....but if you want a non McGyver way...

I'm not actually sure what the CORRECT way is...but...I'm assuming you are painting them? If so, the quick and dirty way would be to use a counter sink bit, attach it to the wall with drywall screws, fill the hole with wood filler, then sand and paint and youre done.

Another easy option, if you are sure you dont want to move them later, would be to use adhesive, like liquid nails, and then tac them in place with the longest finish nails you have...probably 2" if you've got them. Then you only have a small hole to fill. Once the adhesive sets up, theyll be solid enough to hold anything reasonable. You'll want to scuff the surfaces you're gluing too first.

BTW, all this is assuming that from the base up, you are setting on the floor...not actually hanging them.

As far as attaching them together, again...glue and finish nails work here too, If you have inconspicuous areas you can use the counter sink method, and not even worry about filling them. Another option for attaching them together is pegs and wood glue....any home improvement store will carry little wood pegs for that exact application. Drill the appropriate sized hole opposite each other on each piece and glue them in place.

I'm sure theres probably better ways of doing it...but in the interest of "get it done" which has been my motto for 3 years now...those should work.
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post #235 of 1001
4/21/11 at 8:31pm
I agree with prem. I have used the countersunk screws and wood filler before with MDF and it has worked like a charm. Just bear in mind that if you do it right, it might be difficult to locate the screws in the future. If you are just looking for a way to keep it from tipping, and have room at the top (I don't know if you are going all the way to the ceiling), you can always use a small L bracket (~ 1 - 1.5 inch) or two at the top to affix it to the wall. If it's at the back, it should be out of sight. This should be good enough to hold it up for everyday use, but maybe not if someone decides to use it as a ladder.
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post #236 of 1001
4/22/11 at 7:17am
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys for the tips. The "units" wont be able to sit completely flush against any wall or ceiling due to the opening not being uniform height, width or depth so I will more than likely just use a forstner bit and countersink a hole and use a long drywall screw and fill the hole then paint. What should I use to fill the holes in mdf? I have never filled mdf holes.

As far as securing the 3 "units" together I ordered some panel connectors from Rockler this morning which appear to be perfect for what I need.
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post #237 of 1001
4/22/11 at 7:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

Thanks guys for the tips. The "units" wont be able to sit completely flush against any wall or ceiling due to the opening not being uniform height, width or depth so I will more than likely just use a forstner bit and countersink a hole and use a long drywall screw and fill the hole then paint. What should I use to fill the holes in mdf? I have never filled mdf holes.

As far as securing the 3 "units" together I ordered some panel connectors from Rockler this morning which appear to be perfect for what I need.

You can use any wood filler. You'll want to find something with little or no shrinkage (thats what she said).
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post #238 of 1001
4/22/11 at 8:12am
Minimal shrinkage is preferable for sure. ;-)

The connectors in the link you provided should be perfect for what your trying to do.

Regards,

RTROSE
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post #239 of 1001
4/22/11 at 8:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

Thanks guys for the tips. The "units" wont be able to sit completely flush against any wall or ceiling due to the opening not being uniform height, width or depth so I will more than likely just use a forstner bit and countersink a hole and use a long drywall screw and fill the hole then paint. What should I use to fill the holes in mdf? I have never filled mdf holes.

As far as securing the 3 "units" together I ordered some panel connectors from Rockler this morning which appear to be perfect for what I need.

Steve,

Had to order these from Rocklers - I'm sorry!
I have a rockers 15 minutes from here
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post #240 of 1001
4/22/11 at 8:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Steve,

Had to order these from Rocklers - I'm sorry!
I have a rockers 15 minutes from here

/jealous
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