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Just Another Guy Just Another Home Theater......Version 2.0 - Page 12

post #331 of 1001
5/15/11 at 3:31pm
Thread Starter 
You think I should use something like that on the outer perimiter of the box and then what for the inner lines?
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post #332 of 1001
5/15/11 at 3:51pm
Well my .02 is that you would use a larger profile/width on the outside and a smaller profile/width for the inside. Typically at Lowes there are similar profiles in different widths which would be ideal. You would not have to use the same profile you could use two different profiles I would just use a simpler profile on the inner if you go the two different profiles.

Make sense?

Regards,

RTROSE
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post #333 of 1001
5/15/11 at 6:06pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys I will take a look at the box stores soon and tinker. I thought just a screen molding or flat stock with a round over edge would be enough but we will see what I can come up with.

So as promised (since we are at a paint stage)I will share update photos. The subject of the night is.........

Finished Drywall!!!

I have quite a few pictures and will post some of them. The drywall is up, taped, mudded,sanded AND primed!!

Rack area and equipment closet entrance


Screen wall


Rear wall and rear closet entrance (before primer)


Looking into front equipment closet. Note the open area I will build a shelving unit for movies and such


Looking at entrance (before primer)


Wide shot at rack and front closet entrance



Projector portal finished


Some of these are with primer applied and others before. Sorry about the order but you get the idea.
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post #334 of 1001
5/16/11 at 8:35pm
Great work so far! I especially like the hidden PJ idea. Quick question, i have a very old PJ and it can get hot as heck. I'm not sure about the newer ones, but are you concerned about it being in the enclosed area in the soffit?
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post #335 of 1001
5/16/11 at 9:37pm
Steve, it may just be me, but I am a worrier (much like you ) about how much breathing room will your projector have in that cubby hole? I know I have asked before, but seeing it drywalled makes me want to revisit once more.

I see that the ceiling is lower on the backside of the projector and you cant go straight out the back for a vent, but is there any way you could vent out the rear (perhaps by putting in an air way in the back of the cubby hole on the surface and from there go down and then out the backside to the rear of the cubby???)

Its late, been working a ton of hours lately...thought to stop by and see your thread...I am sure above doesnt make sense. But a vent somehow is what I am suggesting.
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post #336 of 1001
5/17/11 at 4:17am
Looking good Steve. As others have stated that looks like a confined space for the PJ, but as you are a worrier, you probably have that angle/concern well covered.

I am always amazed at how much difference drywall makes. After looking at studs, electrical, and cables when I finally got drywall the space almost did not even feel line mine, almost.

Keep the progress going, doing good. When you're ready for carpet let me know and I'll "be there" for you as much as I can. ;-)

Regards,

RTROSE
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post #337 of 1001
5/17/11 at 5:51am
Thread Starter 
I have considered heat and will address that if its an issue down the road. I will say that when I framed that I owned the panny ax200u and it is vented out the front so I figured I'd be ok but I have since sold that so we will see. Thanks for looking out and keeping me under control. And RT we are actually going to look at carpet on wednesday so its not too far off.
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post #338 of 1001
5/17/11 at 12:48pm
Thread Starter 
Quick Q looking for an A.............how long after I paint one surface should I wait until I place painters tape on "that" surface so that I can paint adjoining surfaces a different color?............I'm asking for a friend!!
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post #339 of 1001
5/17/11 at 1:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

Quick Q looking for an A.............how long after I paint one surface should I wait until I place painters tape on "that" surface so that I can paint adjoining surfaces a different color?............I'm asking for a friend!!

A lot of it depends on the surface your paint is on...fresh drywall and primer you should be OK, but give it a couple days....depending on temperature and humidity to be safe.

You can probably find your answers HERE
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post #340 of 1001
5/18/11 at 8:35am
I just revisited this question on a bathroom I was painting. White ceiling vs an accent color on the wall: I was having some "cut-in" issues where they meet, so I used the new "Frog" tape product (Menards carries it). I waited one day before taping the edge for the 2nd color - had no issues when I pulled the tape off. I "think" this Frog tape works even better than the Blue 3M painters tape...
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post #341 of 1001
5/18/11 at 1:25pm
Thread Starter 
I just got back from Menards and got a roll of 3M (the blue stuff) but not the regular blue, I got the "delicate surfaces" stuff. It was recommended on their website for just this thing so we shall see. I am actually planning to cut in a dark ceiling on a wall. Cut in is the worst and I am TERRIBLE at it........grrrrr!! Any suggestions to make this better?!?!

On a side note I got off a little early today and the wife and I took off to a couple of carpet places to look for our future flooring. I will say this......WOW there are some EXPENSIVE A$& carpets out there. I looked at a few that were in the neighborhood of $50+/ft. and that is not including the $9/ft to install it......WOW!! Needless to say I tapered my expectations down a bit which meant I am going to have to sacrifice a bit and wont be getting any of the fancy black with colored swirls like others on here have. Something about spending $5000-$10000 on carpet for my 24' x 13' room just turns me off. We moved on to a second store and found several black carpets that I liked and they are having some "full sized" samples sent to my house in the next few days so I can see them in the color that I want in my space and I will go from there. They were mainly in the neighborhood of $21-$25/yd + installation which is MUCH better than other. I will share some pictures as soon as I get the samples in house.
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post #342 of 1001
5/18/11 at 4:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post
Cut in is the worst and I am TERRIBLE at it........grrrrr!! Any suggestions to make this better?!?!
Bribe me with beer....lol.


On a more serious note...get a good brush...I like Purdy brand. Dont get the straight kind...get the kind thats angled a bit....and dont get one thats too small...i like trimming with a 3 inch brush...a lot people tend to want to use a small brush... because they think its going to be a delicate job that needs a smaller brush...but a smaller brush holds less paint...which means you have to go back to your bucket more often and start your line all over again...bigger brush=more paint=longer strokes. Paint dry to wet, not the other way around. Always paint the ceiling color first...and make sure you get it in the corner and on the wall...that way when you trim out the wall color, you dont have to get RIGHT in the corner....you can stay down away from the ceiling ever so slightly...you are much less likely to notice a little ceiling color on the wall VS wall color on the ceiling. I'm not a pro painter or anything, thats just been my experience.
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post #343 of 1001
5/18/11 at 5:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post
Bribe me with beer....lol.


On a more serious note...get a good brush...I like Purdy brand. Dont get the straight kind...get the kind thats angled a bit....and dont get one thats too small...i like trimming with a 3 inch brush...a lot people tend to want to use a small brush... because they think its going to be a delicate job that needs a smaller brush...but a smaller brush holds less paint...which means you have to go back to your bucket more often and start your line all over again...bigger brush=more paint=longer strokes. Paint dry to wet, not the other way around. Always paint the ceiling color first...and make sure you get it in the corner and on the wall...that way when you trim out the wall color, you dont have to get RIGHT in the corner....you can stay down away from the ceiling ever so slightly...you are much less likely to notice a little ceiling color on the wall VS wall color on the ceiling. I'm not a pro painter or anything, thats just been my experience.
Great advise as I typically do the same thing with a bigger brush and all. The only thing I don't do is the dry to wet, but I'm willing to try that out. However my wife and I have an understanding. She hates to paint the wall, I hate to cut in. So, she cuts in and I paint the remainder. Works out fabulously. Moral of the story???? Get someone else to do it!

Regards,

RTROSE
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post #344 of 1001
5/18/11 at 5:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post
The only thing I don't do is the dry to wet, but I'm willing to try that out.
The biggest advantage there is you are less likely to get too much paint in one spot that will end up bleeding where you dont want it...but if you are carefull...wet to dry is fine too.
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post #345 of 1001
5/18/11 at 5:58pm
Thread Starter 
Well you both are invited up my way for a day of painting.........who's in??
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post #346 of 1001
5/19/11 at 6:12am
When you said "ceiling first", did you mean "lightest color first"? With HT, the ceiling is often the darkest color. light against dark stands out more than dark against light??

Or did you actually mean "ceiling first" as it is easier to see horizontal surfaces than vertical ones?
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post #347 of 1001
5/19/11 at 7:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post
Great advise as I typically do the same thing with a bigger brush and all. The only thing I don't do is the dry to wet, but I'm willing to try that out. However my wife and I have an understanding. She hates to paint the wall, I hate to cut in. So, she cuts in and I paint the remainder. Works out fabulously. Moral of the story???? Get someone else to do it!

Regards,

RTROSE
All good advice that I agree with completely.With one additional tip:

Always start your 2nd wall color "cutting in" after 12 noon, something about the natural lighting Nah that's BS! The key is as long as it is 12 noon somewhere you can then have a nip of bourbon to steady your hand!!
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post #348 of 1001
5/19/11 at 9:19am
The drywall looks great. I'm jealous as I'm just going to get started on my drywall this weekend - Assuming I can get it delivered by then. I do not mind hanging drywall but I'm not looking forward to the mudding and taping.
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post #349 of 1001
5/19/11 at 6:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by premiertrussman View Post

On a more serious note...get a good brush...I like Purdy brand. Dont get the straight kind...get the kind thats angled a bit....and dont get one thats too small

+2 (or is it 3? I have trouble with big numbers )

A high quality brush is a must for cutting in. I have a 2 1/2" angled brush that I only use for cutting in because it works so well.

Typically you want to do the ceiling first so that you don't get any drips from the ceiling onto your finished walls. No mater how careful you are, you will get some splatter from the ceiling onto the walls. If you paint the walls second, you'll cover the ceiling splatters and the new the splatters from the wall paint end up on the floor (gravity is your friend ).

If you are painting your ceiling black and your walls a lighter color, might I suggest you consider installing trim rather than trying to paint into the edge between the ceiling and the walls? This way you can paint your ceiling first, but not have to cover the black in the corner when you paint the walls.
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post #350 of 1001
5/19/11 at 8:24pm
Just subscribed to this thread my friend!!!
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post #351 of 1001
5/20/11 at 1:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lebaje View Post

Just subscribed to this thread my friend!!!


Wow,

Steve what do you say to that? A new member, a new fan and his first post is to tell you that he is subscribed to your thread. No pressure my friend, no pressure.

Regards,

RTROSE
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post #352 of 1001
5/20/11 at 4:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayn_j View Post

When you said "ceiling first", did you mean "lightest color first"? With HT, the ceiling is often the darkest color. light against dark stands out more than dark against light??

Or did you actually mean "ceiling first" as it is easier to see horizontal surfaces than vertical ones?

The second one. Unless you've only got 7' ceilings...its much easier to see the horizontal surface than the vertical one.
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post #353 of 1001
5/20/11 at 4:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

All good advice that I agree with completely.With one additional tip:

Always start your 2nd wall color "cutting in" after 12 noon, something about the natural lighting Nah that's BS! The key is as long as it is 12 noon somewhere you can then have a nip of bourbon to steady your hand!!

That is the single greatest painting tip ever....you must be pro.
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post #354 of 1001
5/20/11 at 5:16pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys for all the painting tips. After hours of review I have decided to let my wife do the painting as she is much better at it than I and I will just sit back and complain about it which I am MUCH better at than her (and anyone if you ask her)



Quote:
Originally Posted by lebaje View Post

Just subscribed to this thread my friend!!!


Thank you!! It is an honor to be the first thread you posted in and maybe even the first one you subscribed too. Stay tuned it may get interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Wow,

Steve what do you say to that? A new member, a new fan and his first post is to tell you that he is subscribed to your thread. No pressure my friend, no pressure.

Regards,

RTROSE

RT you are spot on and the pressure seems to grow each and everyday.
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post #355 of 1001
5/22/11 at 8:58am
Thread Starter 
To all my painting pros out there I need some tips.

In painting a ceiling flat black how do I avoid "roller marks/lines"? Particular technique or roller type?
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post #356 of 1001
5/22/11 at 9:26am
Steve, wall or ceiling, this is how I paint. I swear I found these instructions on the plastic covering of a new roller, but this is what I do. For me, it ensures even coverage and it has always worked for me. (Although a neighbor saw what I was doing and started laughing as he couldnt understand my approach, but again, it works. Also, when I see Home Improvement shows and I see them painting in any pattern sometimes starting in the middle of a wall, I want to scream!!!)

Here is my approach:
I paint in 2 to 3 ft square areas at a time. (do all the steps below without rewetting roller)

In that area, with a loaded roller, I paint a large M.

Then horizontally from top to bottom of that M, I roll the paint towards my unpainted areas (staying in that 2 to 3 foot square but its ok to roll a little into the unpainted area as sort of an overlap).

Then vertically from left to right (again going towards unpainted areas) I roll the paint

To me, this completely effectively covers that area and with little overlap, doing a whole wall this way ensure even coverage.

Just do the same on the ceiling. I dont like doing very long "lines" as it just doesnt get me good even coverage.

Just make sure you pace evenly so that you always work from wet edge to unpainted areas and your overlap areas are wet to wet.

I will try to find these instructions as I am sure I just confused the hell out of everyone!
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post #357 of 1001
5/22/11 at 2:00pm
I alloways use a roller and never got any mark/lines. just be shure to put 3 layer of painting (that what i did...)
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post #358 of 1001
5/22/11 at 3:28pm
Thread Starter 
We have done 3 coats of flat with a 6" fine finish foam roller. It still has roller lines/marks. We purchased a 9" (standard size) no line smooth surface roller to apply a 4th coat I suppose?!?! Unless someone has other suggestions. We used the same 6" roller for the walls with a satin or eggshell and they look awesome. Maybe its the flat paint? The rollers are meant for furniture or cabinets and I thought maybe that was the problem??
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post #359 of 1001
5/22/11 at 4:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

We have done 3 coats of flat with a 6" fine finish foam roller. It still has roller lines/marks. We purchased a 9" (standard size) no line smooth surface roller to apply a 4th coat I suppose?!?! Unless someone has other suggestions. We used the same 6" roller for the walls with a satin or eggshell and they look awesome. Maybe its the flat paint? The rollers are meant for furniture or cabinets and I thought maybe that was the problem??

You giving it plenty of time to dry? Lot of times...especially with very flat paint....the "lines" you see are just a slightly thicker coat of paint that takes longer to dry than the surrounding areas...so when the rest of the wall looks totaly dry the slightly thicker parts still have a tiny bit of sheen to them...making them stand out a bunch....however given plenty of dry time....im not sure what to tell you...I've never used anything other than standard 9" rollers...and i've never had a problem with roller marks...certainly not after 3 coats at least.

I guess i could say make sure you avoid muscling the paint in...that will always cause problems...the only time you need any real pressure is when you are priming bare drywall....
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post #360 of 1001
5/22/11 at 4:07pm
I would guess it is the flat paint. I used a foam roller on my trim with flat paint but for my ceiling I used a low nap roller/not foam. I made sure I kept a wet edge and did not re-roll the area I just did. When I would start "touching up" areas that were drying that is when I would start getting marks. Multiple coats should also help but I would guess that if after the fourth coat you are still getting roller marks, then it is something else going on.

Have you checked the manufactures website for info?

Good Luck.

Regards,

RTROSE
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