DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap! - Page 6

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think tdong was saying that you could photoshop them if you wanted to, not that he would photoshop them for you. You can pretty much resize them anyhow you want.... By uploading them, or pull them into photoshop and resize.

You want to get the highest quality image you can find, your best bet is to use photoshop, so that you can resize it to the 27" x 41" and make sure it stays proportioned correctly....

Also just so you know, all 8 of my posters fit on 7 yards of fabric. Having said that, 6 fits on 5 yards, and my postsers were 24"x36".

I am just saying if you want to photoshop you could do it yourself. I didn't use photoshop at all. I just buy the biggest file from movieposter usually I choose the one that are at least 3000 to 4000 pixel in length. The posters are already photoshop I don't think you need to do anything else

you can view my posters here

http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/714436

Any chance you could give us some side shots of the frames? I'm curious how they are put together as this would fufill my desire for posters and provide absorbtion.

Anyone tried this place?
http://www.fabricondemand.com/Fabric...y/fabrics.html

I was about to order from SpoonFlower, then noticed they don't really fit in well with 24x48 frames. And this place above is 52" wide and $16 a yard for the 100% 4 ounce cotton.

Also, most movie posters seem to be more say 24" x 36". Are most people just making their own frames at this ratio and cutting down the acoustic panels since they are 24x48?

Thanks!

I am printing 24x36 posters. For the frames, do I make the outside 24x36 and not stretch the material much? Or do I make the inside 24x36 and stretch the material an inch each direction? I'm assuming using a 1x2 to make the 2" thick frame, so frame outside dimensions would be 26x38.

Thanks!

Make the out side dimensions 24x36. It would be better to have a little (1/4") of the image wrapped over the side rather than make the frame too big and not be able to stretch the image enough to get rid of the white that surrounds the image.
Are you planning on wrapping the frame with another finished frame, or, putting a "picture" frame over top? See my post on the page before to see what I mean about wrapping the image in another frame...

Attachment 220680

Thought I would add a pic of one out of the three that I added this weekend. This is in the rear of my man cave and large...about 60" wide. Dialogue from the center channel already sounds much clearer. I have REW up and running so now I can do some measuring. What is the best measurement to evaluate the effectiveness of absorbers? RT60?

RT60 is irrelevant in small acoustical spaces.
you do not have a reverberant-field which is a requirement re: RT60.

the Envelope Time Curve (ETC) will detail you all specular information including the first burst of energy (direct flight path) from the acoustic center to your ears, as well as any reflections and the specular decay. it is a function of time, which (since speed of sound is a constant in your room), will dictate total flight paths of any and all specular reflections in your room that arrive at the listening position.

frequency response should be cleaned up as well, as the specular range is a function of the summation of the direct signal and reflections within the room (comb-filtering) - but the extent of that will be based upon how thick your panel is and how effective it is with regards to the lower specular region.

cool!

how thick is the panel and what is it made of?

Thank you for the reply. It is 4.0" with roxul safe & sound. If I put my ear close to the panel it is painfully quiet. It is a very strange sensation.

I also put some up on the walls adjacent to my front main speakers. I am not am REW expert yet, but I will attempt to post some before and after readings for help to interpret them. I would like to measure what I am hearing as the difference.

Thank you for your help and input.

btinindy: That is an awesome pic of the red bull car, where did you get it?

Google. I can email it if you PM me with your address.

This is brilliant. I've wanted sound sound absorption along front of side walls in particular but wife against it. Have always wanted movie posters but nowhere good to put them and didn't want them rattling. This sounds like the perfect solution! Thanks OP.

Greg

Just got my six prints back from spoonflower, all six were on the "quilted" fabric as recommended on this thread. They look great (will post soon)

My question is can speakers mounted in-wall be placed behind the quilted fabric, so the posters act as a speaker grill, and either no acoustic foam or diffusors placed below the speaker. Will the sound penetrate through the quilted fabric.

Also, how do I fit more than one poster on 5yards on spoonflower

I wouldnt use as speaker grills.

To fit more than one, you make a giant image file with all of your images on it.

If you have photoshop setup a new document at 150dpi that is 42" width by 180" height. Keep the background white to start out. Now for all the images resize and crop them (mine were all close to the right aspect ratio) so they are 24" wide and 36" tall at 150dpi. Then rotate them 90 degrees. When adding them to the main document turn the snap to grid on and make sure there's 3 inches from the posters to the sides and 6 inches between each poster. After adding them all make the background all black, then add a white line in between each poster so you know where to cut.

You can see mine that I got in the mail yesterday here in my build thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1356604

I bought all my images on http://www.movieposterdb.com/

Guys - Quick Question :

Question : You think this picture will go well with the wall color and gold molding..
Purpose is to close out the Window...


Room Color - can be seen here

Photo I want to Print in 36 X 44 to Hide the Window that I have.

mtbdudex,

Any way you can fix the images of your posts? You performed some tests with different material. I'd like to see those if possible.

Thanks for the great info.

Short story:
I use Google Picasa Web Albums to host my images, it has 3 privacy settings, public, limited, and private

private = nobody can see any image nor the album except me
limited = anyone can see individual image but the album is not visible to them
public = all images in the album and itself are visible to the www

5 days ago someone hacked my Google Picasa Web Album account and changed my settings, who knows what else.
I got contacted by Google and changed my password and other parameters.

This album "HT Room Acoustic Calibration" setting was changed to private, so nobody could view images - I did not do that and was un-aware that change till you pointed it out.
I just changed that back to public, thx for letting me know.

What I also found out about Google Picasa Web Album's is once you've created an album at a specific privacy level, post pics online from that, and then change the privacy level, the picts online will NOT be visible.
ie, you posted the album as "public", then want it "limited"so people can view the picts but not the album, that won't allow picts to be viewed because the album privacy level is encoded somehow in the picture URL link itself...I call that a quirk.

Now, WHY someone did that?
Trying to get my private email??
(sorry for OT little rant, just when my account gets hacked I get worried)

Thanks for the quick fix. Although I went ahead and designed the posters and sent them off to Spoonflower. To my surprise they've already printed and shipped them. That is some fast service. Spoonflower ROCKS!! Sure wish the company I bought the OC703 had the same quick service... Wont be getting those till the 13th. Oh well, the frames will be ready for assembly by then. Using my Kregjig I got for Christmas... finally.

As a side note, ATS has the pseudo suede material available for around $8 a yard for those of us who aren't going the printed image route.

Just curious, how much are you paying for that OC703?

One question. Is anyone putting any type of spray or coating to make these fire retardant? Or is the 'quilting' fabric already fire rate?

it's all guesswork. in my own opinion, i'd say just purchase fire-rated fabric from an online mfg'r.

otherwise, you can have unexpected results:

• how does the spray affect the acoustically transparent properties of the fabric?
• if one uses the spray on the fabric once the panel has already been made, does the spray clog the porous holes of the insulation and thus affect absorption? (forcing you to remove the fabric to apply the spray)

it's less work and less chance of unexpected results to just purchase fire-rated fabric from the manufacturer or online retailer. just my opinion.

NICE! Another F1 fan. I'm going to eventually do something similar on the back wall of my theater, but a Mclaren though

Yes! I have a few of this pics if you want me to email them to you. Just PM me your email address if you want them. I just found them on Google, so nothing special.

I am pumped for Austin in 2012 and just having a race back in the states. I miss F1 coming here to Indy.

My Wife made all of the arrangements for November this past weekend!

Found them here. Although the standard shipping is SLOW!!! Shipped from Florida, Im in California.

My OC703 will arrive today. I've been doing a little research on how to cut these things... Many people are using an electric knife (turkey carving) to cut them to size. They say it works well with minimal effort.

What did you guys use to cut the OC703??

Exactly that. Walmart has them for $10. You know people say 'it cuts like butter', well it needs to be amended to 'it cuts like OC703 with an electric knife'. Too bad it doesn't have the same ring to it though.

I found a simple bread knife worked perfectly fine to cut the OC703 if just making a few cuts.


My rear wall lower superchunk's were cut with the turkey knife, just because so many cuts wer emade.

For the upper wall superchunks, (cotton product) was much harder to cut thru than OC703/705, so I bring out the turkey knife. Still cuts came out not nicely, determined my blades were dull and sharpened them , much better after sharp blades.



>>>Wear gloves, that yellow stuff is itchy<<<<

I'd like to see more pics of finished works.

Also curious on opinions if adding wood frames on the sides lessens the acoustic benefits significantly.

I'm trying to picture how I might build a semi-solid frame that would not have too much wood around edges...

Greg

for corner bass traps, wood frame won't make a noticeable difference (but do keep the back side open/exposed - do not install a wood backing)

for broadband absorbers for specular reflections, the wood frame around the insulation could produce edge diffraction which could reflect energy to the listening position - but this could easily be determined with the Envelope Time Curve (ETC) response.

on a standard 48"x24"x4" absorber (for early specular reflections), by having the edges of the panel exposed (no wooden frame), you are gaining 50% in exposed surface area. if you are interested in soaking up random incidence specular energy from this room, this could be beneficial...if you are only interested in the particular early specular reflection, then it may not matter. the good thing about building the wood frame behind the insulation (vs around it), is you can use the frame to provide an air-gap when placed against the wall (spacing the insulation from the boundary and further increasing the effectiveness of the absorber).