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DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap! - Page 22

post #631 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcc View Post

Those look real nice.

One suggestion I'd like to make for everyone is to bump up the saturation in the colors and sharpen a bit so they pop even more when printed. That's what I did. But don't go too overboard, it won't look "natural" biggrin.gif

I would say that this depends on the material printed on.

I did my art on Performance Knit and it turned out really closely color matched to my calibrated computer monitor color (just as desired). Other fabrics might require a bump, like Kona for sure, but not all.
post #632 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

What material did you print on? I know that Kona Cotton doesn't display contrast well. You would really need to accent the contrast before submitting the images to print on Kona and it will still be fairly washed out.



Then that is what happened. Lesson learned for others. :-)
post #633 of 1181
I am really happy with the PK, don't hate me these are more cell phone pictures I will try to get you the better pictures when finished but here is an update for today. For next time I will go with 3in edges, having only a half inch to staple on the back was a little hard. I think with a second person it would be easier. Since I didn't leave a 1px line between posters to have a cut line i used a Chalk string, and worked great.





post #634 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyouki37 View Post

I am really happy with the PK, don't hate me these are more cell phone pictures I will try to get you the better pictures when finished but here is an update for today. For next time I will go with 3in edges, having only a half inch to staple on the back was a little hard. I think with a second person it would be easier. Since I didn't leave a 1px line between posters to have a cut line i used a Chalk string, and worked great.






Are you having trouble keeping your lines straight with the PK fabric? Print quality looks great!
post #635 of 1181
^ not at all it was easy to work with. I think it made the job easier since i only had half a inch to work with to staple. It allowed me to stretch it just perfect.
post #636 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyouki37 View Post

^ not at all it was easy to work with. I think it made the job easier since i only had half a inch to work with to staple. It allowed me to stretch it just perfect.

I only asked because Thor looked a little wonky in the photo. I am eager to try the PK out myself. I wish people would hurry and send me some images to get printed. If not I may need to just find something to print myself. I don't know where I would put another though. Theater room is full.
post #637 of 1181
The PK lets you go back and "stretch" a little more where needed even after attached so that you can get perfect lines. Not to bring up the Kona Cotton again, but that is all I tested and it has zero forgiveness. Yes, it is easier to start straight, but if something gets "wonky" (I love that word) with it, you have to unstaple, reposition, and restaple. I would be able to compare the other fabrics in the fabric sample kit if I was at home to see how they stretch or don't stretch, but I have been out of town since Christmas Eve and won't be home until Monday.
post #638 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

The PK lets you go back and "stretch" a little more where needed even after attached so that you can get perfect lines. Not to bring up the Kona Cotton again, but that is all I tested and it has zero forgiveness. Yes, it is easier to start straight, but if something gets "wonky" (I love that word) with it, you have to unstaple, reposition, and restaple. I would be able to compare the other fabrics in the fabric sample kit if I was at home to see how they stretch or don't stretch, but I have been out of town since Christmas Eve and won't be home until Monday.

I completely agree about the Kona. It gave me a little hard time when I made the 2 game posters with it the other day. I wasn't sure why, none of the other fabrics were difficult at all. I was going to come back and post about the Kona not wanting to line up right but figured the Kona has already been picked on enough. I think it's safe to say it's about time to put the faithful Kona in retirement.

With all other fabric except the Silky Faille I just ironed out flat then folded over and stapled and everything came out. Easy peasy! I was a little worried about ironing Silk and the Silky Faille doesn't seem to wrinkle so I just laid it down, folded it over, stapled, and it came out great. I did the Kona last and have to admit I got a little frustrated for a minute but it all worked out. I'm sure any fabric can be manipulated long enough to work. Well I have to admit the Silky Faille had no text lines to worry about in my project, but I don't see it being a problem at all. Out of all 18 of my builds the Silky Faille was by far the tightest when done. I could thump it and make drum noise off that stuff. The others do tend to have some play when finished, but can't really get them real tight without messing with the image. Can't be stretching people making them look different. smile.gif

I think we found a couple of winners. Doesn't really matter which one people use as long as it works. They look great! I have noticed the wonky text in a few photos but I am glad it is so easily fixed afterward.
post #639 of 1181
Yea It made it easy to just go around it and pull any area that needed it and staple. I am not seeing the wonky-ness in the poster in person might be angle i took photo or my eyes are just getting old. So far I am happy with the PK.
post #640 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

Good questions, but some of your data is dated. Kona is a toss up right now. Spoonflower is THE place to go, and they created a new printing process that is awesome, but somehow screwed up with the Kona or found some other issue with it and aren't offering it in the new (much better) printing process. I did a number of tests comparing the original Kona with their new (and now gone) Kona Ultra and their Performance Knit. I just went the Performance Knit fabric about 3.5 weeks ago and LOVE it. It should perform better acoustically (not that Kona was bad, or that you would really notice) than the Kona did, is s finer threaded material, meaning that it is smoother look and is more "refined". Its *potential* drawback is that it is stretchy. For me, this made installation a lot easier and more forgiving, for othes, if you have straight lines to work with, you may need an extra dose of patience to work with it.

Material for making the frames for someone with little tools would be getting some 1x3 or 1x4 material at a place like Home Depot that will cut them to the lengths you need to make a frame, and then you just need a drill to predrill pilot holes to prevent wood from splitting, and some screws and even just a screw driver to assemble them. The size of your cuts will be determined by the material you use.

You can buy the standard OC703 which is rigid, but it will be via the web most likely and isn't exactly cheap. I love this stuff though. Or, check out Lowes and look for Roxul brand Safe N Sound. You can get it in 15.25" x 47" batts, or 23" x 47" batts. Cheaper than OC703 and works well. It isn't rigid like OC703 so a really big panel will tend to have "sagging" insulation. You will also want to check the thickness of the insulation that you want to use to determine the 1x3 or 1x4 wood to use (1x3 is actually .75"x2.5", and the 1x4 is actually .75"x3.5")

Pick out the insulation size, then we can help do the quick math on the cuts (people that don't work with wood at all tend to forget that you need two sides to be longer than the width or length of just the insulation for making a frame), and then we can work backwards to the artwork.

Thanks for this reply.

Now that the holidays are over, I really want to get this project underway!

So I was just googling the OC703 stuff and found some on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

Is that fairly expensive or is that a decent price? It's about $100 shipped for that, and it is 6 panels of 2"x24"x48".

I was also wondering, you said that most of the wood like a 1x3 is actually .75" x 2.5". Is that the size that you would want to use in those types of panels with the stuff I just linked above? Also, would building a 24x48" frame be the best way to use these? Or are people making them larger, then cutting the panels of material in 1/2 and filling in the frames that way?

And kyouki37, those came out great! i think looking at your Thor poster has motivated me to get mine started. What size are yours? Do you have the dimensions of the pieces of wood you cut and the exact insulation you used?

EDIT:

Or is something like this better than the OC703 stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Rockboard-Mineral-Wool-Board/dp/B006FKNVTQ

EDIT 2:

And I think it's posted somewhere in this thread, but this thread is really long, but where is everyone finding these hi-res images of movie posters to print?
Edited by purbeast - 1/2/14 at 12:20pm
post #641 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Thanks for this reply.

Now that the holidays are over, I really want to get this project underway!

So I was just googling the OC703 stuff and found some on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

Is that fairly expensive or is that a decent price? It's about $100 shipped for that, and it is 6 panels of 2"x24"x48".

I was also wondering, you said that most of the wood like a 1x3 is actually .75" x 2.5". Is that the size that you would want to use in those types of panels with the stuff I just linked above? Also, would building a 24x48" frame be the best way to use these? Or are people making them larger, then cutting the panels of material in 1/2 and filling in the frames that way?

And kyouki37, those came out great! i think looking at your Thor poster has motivated me to get mine started. What size are yours? Do you have the dimensions of the pieces of wood you cut and the exact insulation you used?

EDIT:

Or is something like this better than the OC703 stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Rockboard-Mineral-Wool-Board/dp/B006FKNVTQ

EDIT 2:

And I think it's posted somewhere in this thread, but this thread is really long, but where is everyone finding these hi-res images of movie posters to print?

You can get the OC703 from ATS cheaper on their website than through their Amazon listing that you posted above. OK, the product price is the same at $67 for the six sheets of 2", but shipping direct from their website for me is $22 vs. the $39 from Amazon. That is where I got my OC703.

At the ATS web site, they give the acoustical properties of the different products that they carry (since you also linked to the ATS Roxul listing on Amazon). That can be found here:
ATS Acoustical Properties Chart

Here is a comparison of the two you listed.


Pretty even comparison acoustically. The higher density of the Roxul helps more with the low end (about twice as much absorption) than the OC 703. I don't recall why I didn't use it in the past when I made my order...
post #642 of 1181
Here is another picture with 4 of them hung. I have them all framed just put four up for now till I get the placement correct for all of them. I have not added the insulation yet. I really need to get on that before I become happy with them just the way they are "lazy." But I used 1" x 2" for wood so even after I add insulation it wont be to noticeable I bet, but I figure better then nothing. My panels are all 24"W by 36"H.



Yea I wonder now how well that insulation will fit being that it is 2in. I wonder if they sell it thinner to fit my size if not that kind of sucks I always miss a step LOL.
Edited by kyouki37 - 1/2/14 at 3:24pm
post #643 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

You can get the OC703 from ATS cheaper on their website than through their Amazon listing that you posted above. OK, the product price is the same at $67 for the six sheets of 2", but shipping direct from their website for me is $22 vs. the $39 from Amazon. That is where I got my OC703.

At the ATS web site, they give the acoustical properties of the different products that they carry (since you also linked to the ATS Roxul listing on Amazon). That can be found here:
ATS Acoustical Properties Chart

Here is a comparison of the two you listed.


Pretty even comparison acoustically. The higher density of the Roxul helps more with the low end (about twice as much absorption) than the OC 703. I don't recall why I didn't use it in the past when I made my order...

Okay cool man thanks for the info once again. There is a place pretty close to me that another AVS'er got some of the RHT60 from for a good price in the 2" size, so I think I might see about doing that.

So if I was to use 1x3 for my stuff, and wanted to use the full 24"x48" sheet, then that would mean I need the wood pieces to be a bit larger than that in order to fit the stuff inside.

If the 1x3 is really .75x2.5, then I would think I'd need 2 49.5" pieces of wood with 2 24" pieces of wood, right? Or I could do 2 48" pieces and 2 25.5" pieces, correct?

I think I might look into doing these this weekend. I want to put some painers tape on my wall in the 24"x48" size though to see exactly how big that is, if it will be too big.
post #644 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyouki37 View Post

Here is another picture with 4 of them hung. I have them all framed just put four up for now till I get the placement correct for all of them. I have not added the insulation yet. I really need to get on that before I become happy with them just the way they are "lazy." But I used 1" x 2" for wood so even after I add insulation it wont be to noticeable I bet, but I figure better then nothing. My panels are all 24"W by 36"H.



Yea I wonder now how well that insulation will fit being that it is 2in. I wonder if they sell it thinner to fit my size if not that kind of sucks I always miss a step LOL.

Whoa very nice, how do you make the frames? Also what dpi are these? I read 150 dpi is too low eek.gif

I wonder where you get the images to have them in that size?
post #645 of 1181
Also curious if anyone has gone this route for making the frames.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/255432/acoustical-treatments-master-thread/9840#post_24134682

Is there any benefit to using one type of wood over the other? The frames in the linked thread aren't quite as "joint" as the instructions for the frames in this one, but would something that make any difference really? The way he did it in the thread I linked actually seems pretty straight forward and simple to do with minimal tools needed.
post #646 of 1181
Ok, finally got off my lazy butt and hung the pieces.

Sorry for the cell pics.







All in all I'm pretty happy how they turned out.
post #647 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcc View Post

Ok, finally got off my lazy butt and hung the pieces.

Sorry for the cell pics.







All in all I'm pretty happy how they turned out.

That looks really good, are these at 150dpi?

post #648 of 1181
I believe so. Whatever the max dpi allowable from Spoonflower.

I forgot to mention a suggestion that when you're drilling the holes or however you choose to mount the pieces to the wall, to mark the area and use a stud finder to make sure if there is one there or not. I used these to hang my pieces

And hit a stud with one. Had to reposition it and left the hole since it's covered biggrin.gif
Edited by tcc - 1/2/14 at 5:55pm
post #649 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

Whoa very nice, how do you make the frames? Also what dpi are these? I read 150 dpi is too low eek.gif

I wonder where you get the images to have them in that size?

Yes These are at 150dpi and on Photoshop jpeg quality of 10 max being 12. I had to give up (2) since I went with 8 poster on one print and max MB was 40. In person these print looks really sharp and I could not be happier. My frames are real simple I would of took a more professional approach but my Table saw broke and all I had was a circular saw. So I did straight cuts and not 45s. then just used my brad nail and glue then shot them together. Here is a picture to give you an idea.




Hard to see the joints in the wood because I used wood filler to cover them up.
post #650 of 1181
Here is a real nice joinery method too if you plan to build "just about anything" in the future. I'm a hobbyist wood worker and I use this a lot.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_255535-39450-R3_0__?productId=1072743&Ntt=kreg+jig&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dkreg%2Bjig&facetInfo=
post #651 of 1181
^^ Ooo, I must pick one of those up smile.gif
post #652 of 1181
So I am seeing other people using the same wood as me with 1 1/2 in side walls and still putting insulation in them. Do they sell it at 1 1/2 or is the 2in insulation the same as wood and fits the 1 1/2? sorry if i am confusing you.
post #653 of 1181
The insulation I used which was the same as muaysteve is Roxual Comfort Board. We couldn't find the OC73 readily here.

It comes in sheets with a thickness of 1.5" which fits perfect with the type of wood we used and yours.
post #654 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcc View Post

The insulation I used which was the same as muaysteve is Roxual Comfort Board. We couldn't find the OC73 readily here.

It comes in sheets with a thickness of 1.5" which fits perfect with the type of wood we used and yours.

Thank you
post #655 of 1181
Another noob question.

If I get some 1" x 3" pieces of wood to build the frames, which are really .75" x 2.5", will the 2" thick insulation fit just fine even though it won't be filling the full 2.5"?

Like will it slide around at all or should it hold in place pretty snug in there even though it's not the exact thickness of the frame?
post #656 of 1181
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Another noob question.

If I get some 1" x 3" pieces of wood to build the frames, which are really .75" x 2.5", will the 2" thick insulation fit just fine even though it won't be filling the full 2.5"?

Like will it slide around at all or should it hold in place pretty snug in there even though it's not the exact thickness of the frame?

It should fit but you might need to put some 1/2" pieces around the edge to hold the insulation in place. An added benefit is that you'd have a 1/2" gap between the insulation and wall so any sound waves that pass through on the way in would bounce off the wall back into the insulation.
post #657 of 1181
Like mentioned by dgage, the thicker the better. For example, a 2" piece of acoustical material plus a 2" air gap *almost* has the same acoustical properties as 4" of acoustical material. So don't be afraid of an air gap. Depending on what people use for the acoustical material (OC703, Roxul, etc) it is usually advisable to put a layer of super cheap fabric (that breathes well) on the back of the panel anyway to prevent any insulation fibers from getting into the air and getting breathed in.
post #658 of 1181
Looks great, finding ways to hide acoustic treatments is always a challenge.

Some considerations: You could put in a piece of curved wood behind the fabric in order to get diffusion as well. There is enough room behind the fabric and the wall to do that, particularly if you made the frame depth thicker.

The red wall would look better if you painted the wall fixtures red such as the air vents and wall receptacles. I have painted light bulb housing/fixtures as well and they are not nearly as distracting.

Hanging the wall treatments/posters at eye level on the red wall will probably look better and also serve the acoustic purpose better as a first reflection attenuator.


All in all though, great job and your method will likely will be replicated by others in the forums.
post #659 of 1181
So I went to HD this afternoon. I was going to get all the lumber and stuff I needed to make 6 of these frames, but I decided to just get enough to make 1 and do a test run because I haven't done any of this before and wanted to be sure it came out okay before I go and buy a bunch of lumber.

I was initially going to make them 2'x4' because that is the size that the insulation comes in, but I decided to make them 2'x3' because that is the ratio of many movie posters, and 2'x4' is pretty damn big!

I used 1x3's of pine. They were close to $5 for 8ft of it.

So I got 2 24" pieces and 2 36" pieces. Initially I was going to use the 24" pieces as the "outer" pieces, but ended up making the 36" pieces the "outer" pieces. And it sucks because after my initial decision, I ended up cutting 2 22.5" pieces to use as backing of the frame, since the insulation is going to be 2" thick, and the frame is 2.5" thick, I was going to put 2 bars of .5" across the back just to support the insulation. But since I initially was going to only need 22.5" lengths, I cut 2 of those, and now I need 24" for the 2 back pieces, so I ended up not being able to use them, which sucks because those pieces were paid by the foot and it was nearly 4 feet.

Anyways, I ended up buying the corner clamp things, some nails, and gorilla wood glue. I put glue on the edges and used the clamps to keep them in place, and while drying, I hammered 3 nails into each joint.

I think they came out pretty well so I'm probably going to get the lumber to make more of them, and also make sure that I actually cut the back pieces 24" this time smile.gif

post #660 of 1181
Lol, remember...measure twice cut once biggrin.gif

Also note since you have your 36" pieces on the outside of your 24" pieces, effectively you have a 25.5" wide frame now.
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