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RT's Open Room Basement Build

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
After lots of reading on this site I'm starting to finish my basement. Plan is for an open concept due to WAF. Screen on one end in "u" shape, back open to rest of basement. Going to separate the screen area from the rest of basement via soffit and bar counter
The foundation wall on the right side facing screen is the outer boundary. This will give me roughly an 18-19 foot deep space and ~17 ft wide. Was hoping to fit 2 rows plus bar counter- 2nd row on riser.
My dilemma will be screen size- wide space but not deep relatively. Given recommended riser depth of ~7ft my front row will roughly be in the 11Ft rane

Here is the layout:

The wall where the screen will be is where the window is:

Going to move the ductwork over to the right to make the ceiling higher.
On the left side going to extend the wall to the pole to make the U shape:

I know this aquarium has a big hole but for futureproofing I'm going to decouple the walls and ceiling in this end of basement. Insulation in ceiling in whole basement and more wall insulation
No skills/no tools here so it will all be subbed out
Have lots of "Don't get it" questions will post further

post #2 of 10
Thread Starter 
Electrical- trying to get electrical quotes now- rediculously expensive. I'm trying to figure out how Rough electrical gets inspected if some lights are going to be in false soffit in room?
I got a suggestion to run cat6 for speakers instead of speakerwire- thoughts
Framers were here today- day 3 of framing
post #3 of 10
After lots of reading here you and still
got a suggestion to run cat6 for speakers instead of speakerwire


MY thought is to run heavy, in-wall rated speaker wire. I ran 14g from monoprice. I don't recall seeing anyone recommend cat6 for speakers. What equipment are plannig to run? Cat6 is about the gauge you get from home theaters in a box. And cheap ones at that.
post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
TRying to plan lighting in theater area.
This area will be 18.5 feet deep, 17 feet wide
Need a real soffit on one side(18.5) for existing AC duct- roughly 16 inches wide
Was planning on fake soffits all the rest of the way around
Was planning on 3 sconces on each side, high hats in soffit up front lighting screen, high hats at rear over counter, rope lighting in middle

Is this enough? Other thought was to put high hates in fake soffit on one side, Assuming shoulsn't put high hats in real soffit on other side but build fake soffit inside of that for high hats?


post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Ok framing is completed except for a couple of minor things in my open room concept.
Width is 17'4" inside faming and 19' deep.
Front wall showing blue tape of 120" diagonal screen(105" wide, 59" high) 16:9. My problem is I can go bigger in my screen but my first row will only be 11'5" to eyeballs before riser:

I can't do false wall and transparent screen due to depth and I plan on hiding speakers in a proscenium.

Any comments here?- was thinking of keeping same height and going wider for 2:37 layout
Back of room open to rest of basement- soffit is the split to rest of basement

post #6 of 10
Looks to me like if you are planning to keep that window, you probably do not want the screen to be any taller. That would make the bottom even lower to the floor. I think right now you are probably as low as you want to go. Your feet will be in the way when reclined. If you want to go bigger, go the 2.35 route and make it wider, but no taller.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 

THanks- was going to plug the window and cover with drywall- So I should move the screen up? I have roughly 8.5 feet floor to ceiling where the screen is

post #8 of 10
I would.

General rule of thumb is to have eyeballs about a third of the way from the bottom of the screen. Looks to me like you are closer to halfway. Then, depending on what you want to do for a screen wall, maybe you can go taller.

I still like the idea of going wider for a 2.35 screen. Then your 16:9 image can be as big as it is now, with black bars on the side.
post #9 of 10
Did you get your electrical rough in completed?
post #10 of 10
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