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Official Sharp LC-XXLE832U Owner's Thread - Page 18

post #511 of 563
Use the settings at the top of this page. They've worked the best for me by far. The picture quality and colours are outstanding.
post #512 of 563
I just added those settings and it definitely looks good, unquestionably. I set it up using "Home" mode, but the image was too dim for my tastes. Putting it in "Store" mode seemed to make the image pop beautifully and not become too garish, again, using those settings.

Now, with all that said, the soap-opera-y look is still there, although the colours are far nicer. Is this something I should just learn to live with (and possibly come to enjoy) or do most folks find it disconcerting?

There are so many different user modes in there, too. I'm not really sure what they're all for. Does anybody even use the non-custom modes?
post #513 of 563
Quote:
Originally Posted by W2IRT View Post

I just added those settings and it definitely looks good, unquestionably. I set it up using "Home" mode, but the image was too dim for my tastes. Putting it in "Store" mode seemed to make the image pop beautifully and not become too garish, again, using those settings.

Now, with all that said, the soap-opera-y look is still there, although the colours are far nicer. Is this something I should just learn to live with (and possibly come to enjoy) or do most folks find it disconcerting?

There are so many different user modes in there, too. I'm not really sure what they're all for. Does anybody even use the non-custom modes?

The "film mode" is what will often create that effect. Setting it to "standard" will eliminate a lot. The 120 Hz settings can also generate odd motion artifacts if left on or "high" in particular. Setting it to "low" or "off" will correct the remainder (though you'll have the panning effects of judder that it would otherwise eliminate). I use "standard" on film and "low" on 120 Hz to eliminate most artifacts with only a little weirdly smooth motion.
post #514 of 563
Low is about the only workable compromise in my eyes. Disabling it doesn't do a lot for the soap-opera effect but the judder from even the slightest lateral camera motion makes the picture nausea-inducing. Since this was a floor demo model that I bought on closeout there are no do-overs for me on this one

I should add that I was a full time motion picture projectionist for 19 years and my eyes are attuned to what a film should look like when presented...and this is just far too disconcerting. It looks great for CGI or animated content and makes sports pop for the most part, but I 60% of what I watch are network dramas and 38% are movies and 2% sports, if that.
post #515 of 563
Quote:
Originally Posted by W2IRT View Post

Since this was a floor demo model that I bought on closeout there are no do-overs for me on this one

It might help you to rest easier knowing that Sharp sets are actually one of the few at this price point that allow the user to separately control motion blur and judder. Many sets tie the two settings together so they're either on or off (with the same unnatural nausea inducing; for me it's more an impossibility in suspending disbelief because it winds up looking like overly smooth PAL video of actors in sets rather than a movie). Beyond that, there's no manufacturer that puts the color gamut in the hands of the end user like Sharp (from their bottom to top models).

There's a reason I've been voluntarily buying only Sharp LCD TVs since 2005. This is my third one.
post #516 of 563
Hi there all you 832U owners!

I have a question about the weight of these sets. It seems almost excessive compared to models from other manufacturers. I'm specifically looking at the 46" version which weighs in at 19 kg without the stand... That compares to 14.3 for the Sony KDL46EX723 or 620, 13.5 for the Samsung UN46D6000, 12 for the Samsung UN46EH5000, and 12.5 for the new Sharp LC46LE540U.

What gives? I mean, it's seriously porky - it's not even close to the other sets! Exterior dimensions seem to be marginally larger for the Sharp. However, I'm still wondering if the weight can be seen as an indication of better quality internals or is it simply sloppy engineering?

I'm going to mount this on an Ergotron arm that is rated up to 18 kg, so I'm wondering if the Sharp is worth taking a chance on or if I should play it safe and go with something lighter. From everything I've read, I'm leaning towards the Sharp due to picture quality and reliability.
post #517 of 563
I have the 46 inch model. My first LED display, let alone a 240/120hz tv.
I have popped in a mkv bluray rip via USB and noticed the motion in the tv doesn't look "film-esque". Feels like a home video. Like the fps is much higher than it ought to be. I have seen this before and it looked weird to be honest, not sure if everything will look that way. Might appear more real, but definitely doesn't feel like the cinema.

How can I change the settings to get this film-like look? I am talking about the motion to be specific.

Edit: Also to add, does this TV not support DTS audio? an MKV with DTS audio played fine but it said the audio file is not supported. This is all via usb.

2nd Edit: So the motion film quality is restored upon turning off the motion picture whatever nonsense option. Though, I can't get my head around the dts. Why doesn't this tv support dts audio when directly connected to source. Example, USB. Plays the audio fine when connecting the tv to my laptop. Just seems odd!
post #518 of 563
because on laptop your pc is actually decoding the dts into stereo pcm instead of bitstream it.. playing on tv itself required the tv to decode the dts signal into pcm stereo which sharp and most tv manufacturer dont pay for the DTS licensing to bother letting the feature(decoding) to be added, my advice is just get a cheap WDTV as media player than the tv oudated media function...
post #519 of 563
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wiz View Post

Had my set professionally calabrated. These are the settings. Extremly happy with the results. Good luck.

USER
Backlight: 10
Contrast: 32
Brightness: -3
Color: 4
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 2

Hue
R: 0
Y: 14
G: -19
C: -9
B: 0
M: -6

SAT
R: -8
Y: -20
G: -13
C: 28
B: 30
M: 0

VAL
R: 0
Y: 15
G: 30
C: 20
B: 22
M: -10
Colour Temp. Mid-Low

R Gain: 8
G: 0
B: -5
R: 2
G: 0
B: -13

Motion Enhancement 120 Low
Quad Pixel On
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma -2
Film Adv High
Digital Noise Auto
Mono Off

I just have to say that these settings are really good. When I first got my LC60-LE831U and LC40-LE830U sets, I spent a many hours calibrating them with the DVE Blu-ray to get similar results.

The only adjustment I made to these settings is to bump up brightness to -2 as The Wiz's setting crush black levels a wee bit in my viewing environment.

For me, a really good test of color accuracy is the green color on the depth gauge in the Das Boot Director's Cut Blu-ray at time 24:10 - 24:14. The 0-100 meter part of gauge is a very light green which I found appears cyan if the DVE's color-bar pluge is not precisely dialed in.

The Wiz's settings display the light green correctly and deliver great color and clarity in general. My DVE settings posted below dial the color back and backlight down a bit (which I also like ... IMO, things seem more natural, real-world looking when color is scaled down a bit).

I'm going to stick with The Wiz's settings for the time being, though. They are really nice. Thanks for posting them!

My DVE calibrated settings in case anyone's interested:

Code:
USER 
Backlight: STD
Contrast: 32
Brightness: -2
Color: -9
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

Hue 
R: 1
Y: 16
G: 0
C: 4
B: 0
M: 3

SAT 
R: 22
Y: 4
G: 30
C: 30
B: 30
M: 28

VAL 
R: 0
Y: 18
G: 30
C: 30
B: 30
M: 1
Colour Temp. Middle

R Gain: 0
G: 0
B: 0
R: 0
G: 0
B: 0

Motion Enhancement 120 Low
Quad Pixel n/a
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma -2 (O for Blu-ray input)
Film Mode Off
Digital Noise Off
Mono Off
post #520 of 563
Wiz and all,

I used your settings on my LC-60LE830U and I am extremely pleased with them. The colorimetry is excellent, as well as the blacks and contrast. Whites don't bloom anymore. Graphics are razor sharp. Facial tones are great (you can really see this if you compare facial makeup to hands or necks). Very pleased. Thanks for posting these!

-Homie

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wiz View Post

Had my set professionally calabrated. These are the settings. Extremly happy with the results. Good luck.

USER
Backlight: 10
Contrast: 32
Brightness: -3
Color: 4
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 2

Hue
R: 0
Y: 14
G: -19
C: -9
B: 0
M: -6

SAT
R: -8
Y: -20
G: -13
C: 28
B: 30
M: 0

VAL
R: 0
Y: 15
G: 30
C: 20
B: 22
M: -10
Colour Temp. Mid-Low

R Gain: 8
G: 0
B: -5
R: 2
G: 0
B: -13

Motion Enhancement 120 Low
Quad Pixel On
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma -2
Film Adv High
Digital Noise Auto
Mono Off
post #521 of 563
100 days into ownership of a LC 60LE832U and yesterday morning upon starting the set there was a red flash. When I changed the channels there was also a similar red flash (Directv feed). The problem persisted wherein the screen appeared to have a lot of red such that greens were brown etc. Now the picture appears pixelated especially around the perimeter of the picture and regardless of feed (Samsung blueray), the picture looks less clear and the greens in particular are dirty while skin tones are red. I've searched "red flash" et al., but haven't found anything and SURE WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP.

Apologies if I have posted incorrectly.
post #522 of 563
Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrickly View Post

100 days into ownership of a LC 60LE832U and yesterday morning upon starting the set there was a red flash. When I changed the channels there was also a similar red flash (Directv feed). The problem persisted wherein the screen appeared to have a lot of red such that greens were brown etc. Now the picture appears pixelated especially around the perimeter of the picture and regardless of feed (Samsung blueray), the picture looks less clear and the greens in particular are dirty while skin tones are red. I've searched "red flash" et al., but haven't found anything and SURE WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP.

Apologies if I have posted incorrectly.

Sorry if you've already done this, but you might at the most basic level try checking your HDMI connections to make sure they're seated correctly. I've had some strange effects from both bad cable box female HDMI connectors and bad cable seating.
post #523 of 563
Little help. Guessing this set doesn't have bad clouding issues right?

th_IMAG0402.jpg
th_IMAG0403.jpg
post #524 of 563
They're better than mine, but I'm still debating hitting Sharp up for a fix before the warranty is out. Going through Sharp's warranty repair/replacement can be a lengthy process (compared with a store front) to exchange and they often will offer refurb'ed sets they have in stock of similar size and spec, if they do you can often negotiate an extended warranty to cover yourself for part failures and other such issues.
post #525 of 563
Emailed them anyways. Shot me down. Told me it within specification.
post #526 of 563
Can this do SKYPE? Anyone? Any sharp model does have skype?
post #527 of 563
Quote:
Originally Posted by r360r View Post

Emailed them anyways. Shot me down. Told me it within specification.

Yea, your clouding judging by the photo is pretty minimal compared to some of the other sets I've seen. I've seen sets with clouding 10x's worse and Sharp will say they're within spec. Kind of makes you think "Wow, your standards must be utter crap then" lol. Mine is kinda like yours though. It's not horrible. It's pretty much the one major flaw with this set IMO, you just gotta make sure your viewing area is reasonably lit.
post #528 of 563
The Wiz, thanks a lot for your settings. I used them on my LC-52LE832U and I really like them. The only setting I changed is Film Adv High that I set to Film Adv Low. While it is usually fine, I watched the new Ghost Rider movie (not really good BTW) and it had some really bad artifacts (at the beginning, when Moreau is about to get off his bike, the ground behind him gets really ugly). Changing it to Low fixed the issue. I guess 99% of the time this filter does a great job but it really annoys me when it doesn't work well.

I wonder what the Film Adv setting does exactly? If I disable it, it seems the motion flow setting is completely ignored (off). And I cannot set it to standard as it is not available (in user mode at least).
post #529 of 563
For all those who have used my setting and are happy and said thanks.

I'm glad you like them.
post #530 of 563
I have a question regarding ARC on this set, that I can't seem to find the answer for anywhere...

I'm thinking of hooking up all my devices (really, just a PS3 and DVR) directly to the TV then using the ARC channel to feed to my Denon AVR791. Now, my question is if I use ARC to feed the audio from the TV to the AVR will that passthrough the audio directly from my PS3, or does ARC only support a certain audio format? I've read somewhere that most TVs only support LPCM 2.0 over ARC so does that mean if I'm watching a Blu Ray on my PS3, the audio coming out of the TV is only going to be LPCM 2.0? I don't want to lose the HD audio from Blu Rays.
post #531 of 563
^^^
AFAIK, you are correct, digital input sources only output 2.0 to both ARC and digital output. The only way to get 5.1 output is from the builtin digital tuner or the apps. You won't get DTS-HD back from ARC. My suggestion is to connect your DVR & PS3 to the Denon then the Denon to the TV.
post #532 of 563
Ok, good to know. Thanks for the response. I guess I'll leave my current set up as is now then.

*EDIT* I guess I should inform everyone as to why I wanted to set it up this way...It was mostly for power saving. So I wouldn't have to have my AVR on all the time to watch TV, play PS3. But now my next question. How much power does a AVR unit really suck when listening to normal levels of audio with some pretty decent tower speakers?
post #533 of 563
^^^
Look at the power specs for your receiver ... the AC power, not the power output to the speakers. Probably about 500 watts. That means, if you are paying $0.08 per kwh, cost to run the receiver is about $0.04 per hour.
post #534 of 563
I entered The Wiz' settings and really liked them. They are a huge improvement over what I had developed on my own. smile.gif

However, I knew that I would never be completely satisfied until my set was professionally calibrated, so I had Bill Hergonson of Coast Calibrations do it earlier this week. The new settings are vastly different, and I am astounded by the new-found quality of the picture. Utterly beautiful.

It really points out the uniqueness of each set that leaves the factory, owing to the stacked tolerances of the electronic components inside.


Edited by MyronW - 8/2/12 at 3:57pm
post #535 of 563
I saw a firmware update is available since yesterday. I am trying to find the changelog, do you know if it is available?
post #536 of 563
Per the Sharp site: "improves the performance of the set when receiving 1080p @30Hz DTV signal." "It also contains all previous fixes and enhancements."

I installed it yesterday & don't see any difference but my cable box outputs 1080i.
post #537 of 563
It also removed defunct apps.

I find that sometimes Netflix doesn't start properly and I have to start Vudu first, then Netflix runs fine.

I do think that was happening before the firmware update but seems more pronounced now.

Later,
- Jeff
post #538 of 563
Is anyone having a problem playing srt files after the firmware update? I watch movies off of a hard drive all the time. The srt files used to work just find but I just noticed they stopped working. The only change I can think of is the firmware update.
post #539 of 563
on my 830U pandora is accessible thru the vudu app
post #540 of 563
I scored big time! I just bought a LC-60LE832 with 3yr extended warranty for $900.00 total! This is one awesome set! The picture quality is top notch and the black level is amazing too. The MFG date is 11-20-2011 and the original receipt showed $2042.00 total with the extended warranty and tax. It's in MINT condition and love it! The extended warranty ends on 11-20-2015
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