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The Official Procella Audio Speakers Owners thread - Page 8

post #211 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Holy crap that's AWESOME!!!

Tell me....are there three P15s to go with those P8s hidden from view? Are the P10si subs intended for balancing subs?

Yup.. The P10Si's are for balancing.... I was never able to find truly compelling (convincing) info on the advantages of full range speakers for strictly movies, and their seemed to be valid points for both sides so I had a tough time deciding on the P815's and opted for the P8's and (2) P18's instead. Trying to achieve the same visceral impact as I got from the 4 x 18 IB in the last theater was a priority for me.

However, I will construct my baffle to allow for the addition later.

I am very interested in hearing others opinions for using a full range speaker in this scenerio..

Brad

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post #212 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Yup.. The P10Si's are for balancing.... I was never able to find truly compelling (convincing) info on the advantages of full range speakers for strictly movies, and their seemed to be valid points for both sides so I had a tough time deciding on the P815's and opted for the P8's and (2) P18's instead. Trying to achieve the same visceral impact as I got from the 4 x 18 IB in the last theater was a priority for me.

However, I will construct my baffle to allow for the addition later.

I am very interested in hearing others opinions for using a full range speaker in this scenerio..

Brad

The P8 is -3db at 80Hz, achieving THX certification on its own with this performance. Perhaps not extremely compelling, but from what I've seen and the calibrators I've spoken with, there is an advantage to setting the LCR crossovers with the LFE lower....in the 50Hz to 60Hz range. And the three 15" subs for the LCR certainly would help to pressurize the room for that visceral impact you seek.

But I have to say, I had the privilege of experience KBlaw2010's Erskine designed Procella room and can verify first-hand that those dual P18s are simply incredible. Unbelievably powerful but with full tonality and control. I have never heard bass reproduction that good in any system .... never.

You may not miss the three 15" subs,but I am willing to bet that allowing space for the 15" subs will be burning a hole in your upgrade pocket!! biggrin.gif

I ended up getting three P610s for the front, six P6 for dual sides and surround speakers, two P10si balancing subs.....and ran out of $$$ to purchase the subs biggrin.gif, so I'll have to DIY the LFE for my system.

One last question....are you pre-wiring for any 3D audio codec, such as Auro 3D or Dolby Atmos?
post #213 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

You may not miss the three 15" subs,but I am willing to bet that allowing space for the 15" subs will be burning a hole in your upgrade pocket!! biggrin.gif

I ended up getting three P610s for the front, six P6 for dual sides and surround speakers, two P10si balancing subs.....and ran out of $$$ to purchase the subs biggrin.gif, so I'll have to DIY the LFE for my system.
The 18's were a "Splurge", and believe me, upgradeitis for the 815's started when I placed the order for the others. they might still make the starters list for the grand opening (2016 at my current pace of progress) cool.gif
Quote:
One last question....are you pre-wiring for any 3D audio codec, such as Auro 3D or Dolby Atmos?
I ran for front high, front wides and VOG in addition to the 7.1 with dual sides.
post #214 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

I ran for front high, front wides and VOG in addition to the 7.1 with dual sides.

Auro uses rear heights in addition to the front heights, fyi, so something to consider for the prewire.

A single VOG or a stereo array like Atmos presents? And are you doing one VOG speaker/stereo array per row of seating? I ask because I am about to finish wiring my own theater and have to make some decisions on any further prewire. I'd like to have your input.
post #215 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Auro uses rear heights in addition to the front heights, fyi, so something to consider for the prewire.

A single VOG or a stereo array like Atmos presents? And are you doing one VOG speaker/stereo array per row of seating? I ask because I am about to finish wiring my own theater and have to make some decisions on any further prewire. I'd like to have your input.

An HVAC bulk head in the rear interferes with placement of rear heights for me.(I honestly didn't spend alot of time looking for a work around on this.) For the VOG i ran for one pair of stereo that I planned to place equidistant to the listening position for both rows .. not ideal but if push comes to shove, due to the tiered ceinling inside the shell, I will have limited access I can fish another set of wires.

On another note.. I've been searching for a switch(s) that can be placed at the (2) 20 amp outlets behind the baffle wall for the P18's, I've only been able to locate 15 amp ones.... What are others doing in this situation.. Id like to be able to shut the amps on the 18's completely off automatically.
post #216 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

An HVAC bulk head in the rear interferes with placement of rear heights for me.(I honestly didn't spend alot of time looking for a work around on this.) For the VOG i ran for one pair of stereo that I planned to place equidistant to the listening position for both rows .. not ideal but if push comes to shove, due to the tiered ceinling inside the shell, I will have limited access I can fish another set of wires.

On another note.. I've been searching for a switch(s) that can be placed at the (2) 20 amp outlets behind the baffle wall for the P18's, I've only been able to locate 15 amp ones.... What are others doing in this situation.. Id like to be able to shut the amps on the 18's completely off automatically.

Thanks.

I would simply home-run the electrical wiring (powerbridge) for each P18 back to the equipment room, just like you would do with your projector to a battery back up. This will give you maximum flexibility if you homerun all of your dedicated circuits for the entire theater and your AV stack to the equipment room.
post #217 of 229
"There in lies the Rub".. room already has layer of OSB up..
post #218 of 229
Unless you glued it, should be easy to back out all the screws with a little deconstruction to get it in....or am I missing something?

If not, here you go: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Commercial-Grade-Toggle-Switch-White-R52-0CSB1-2WS/202035005#
post #219 of 229
Probably me missing something.. I was thinking something like this only 20 Amp to control power at the subs using extra cat 6 I ran.

http://www.smarthome.com/81301/Xantech-AC1-Controlled-AC-Outlet/p.aspx
post #220 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerben Van Duyl View Post

We did not make any announcements or press releases about these new products, as we are still about six months away from shipping. We just showed final samples, to whet everybody's appetite...

The P6 in-wall will have a paintable, magnetic grill. The P5 will be 12" tall and basically the same size as an LS3, it turns out!

Both will have a round wave guide so that they can be placed either horizontally and vertically.

The P12 will be single 12"driver and a brand new amp!

Very exciting stuff and more Procella news to follow in the next months.

Any more info/specs. on the new P5 and P12?
post #221 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKKNK View Post

Probably me missing something.. I was thinking something like this only 20 Amp to control power at the subs using extra cat 6 I ran.

http://www.smarthome.com/81301/Xantech-AC1-Controlled-AC-Outlet/p.aspx

I just double-checked and am a bit stunned that Procella's P18 subwoofer with the integrated amplifier does not include a built-in 12v trigger. It's unclear if the subwoofer powers itself down after a certain number of minutes of inactivity. Really hard to believe considering that this is a custom integration piece designed to be recessed into a baffle wall.

The only other product I know that does high voltage triggering is the Niles AC-3, but that has nearly identical specifications as the Xantech you found and the same amperage rating. That's such a tough, tough power load I'd be afraid I would smoke the Xantech device the first time a ran a Michael Bay movie at reference level, not to mention potentially choking out the Procella amp.

Tough call, but I'd probably go without or homerun the romex from that receptacle to the equipment room so it could be properly managed through a real 20a power protection device.
post #222 of 229
Could anyone here provide me with a price list for these speakers? I'm looking at the P610s,P6s,P15s,P10Sis,and the appropriate number of Procella amps.I live in Canada, 5 minutes from the border, so CAD or USD pricing is fine.

Thanks, in advance for your help.
post #223 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabindu View Post

Could anyone here provide me with a price list for these speakers? I'm looking at the P610s,P6s,P15s,P10Sis,and the appropriate number of Procella amps.I live in Canada, 5 minutes from the border, so CAD or USD pricing is fine.

Thanks, in advance for your help.

Her is a partial list of pricing as of 2011, but I think things went up slightly since then as you would probably expect:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1318743/the-official-procella-audio-speakers-owners-thread#post_20124784

Hopefully Chuck or Gerben can fill in this list a bit more with current retail pricing for all models, including their new DSP amps.
post #224 of 229
Thanks a lot!
post #225 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Unless you glued it, should be easy to back out all the screws with a little deconstruction to get it in....or am I missing something?

If not, here you go: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Commercial-Grade-Toggle-Switch-White-R52-0CSB1-2WS/202035005#

But for automation, that doesn't help. I just flip the breakers off, I have dedicated power to these obviously. I've lived for almost 2 years with just leaving them on most of the time, I don't know exactly how much they pull when not in use. Although I wouldn't mind getting control on those.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I just double-checked and am a bit stunned that Procella's P18 subwoofer with the integrated amplifier does not include a built-in 12v trigger. It's unclear if the subwoofer powers itself down after a certain number of minutes of inactivity. Really hard to believe considering that this is a custom integration piece designed to be recessed into a baffle wall.

No, they don't power down.
post #226 of 229
Quote:
Originally Posted by turls View Post

But for automation, that doesn't help. I just flip the breakers off, I have dedicated power to these obviously. I've lived for almost 2 years with just leaving them on most of the time, I don't know exactly how much they pull when not in use. Although I wouldn't mind getting control on those.

Having had AMX, Crestron and now Savant Automation systems since 1996, I understand implicitly what you are saying. My point was to Powerbridge the Romex to the equipment closet, connecting it to a dedicated rack-mount 20Amp power protection device that has integrated triggers to cue certain receptacles on/off vs. the standalone Xantech device, which may be a limiting factor for such a powerful sub. A simple power inlet locking power cable would bridge the gap between this triggered receptacle and the power inlet location in the equipment room that runs to the sub. You also get the benefit of high-end surge suppression and power filtration to boot. In this way the automation system can simply trigger the rack-mounted power protection device to turn on the specific receptacle which then restores power to the sub via the Powerbridge.

Hopefully Procella will integrate an inexpensive trigger mechanism and/or a signal autosense feature in their next generation release for all subs with integrated amplifiers to eliminate this problem.
Edited by TMcG - 1/6/14 at 8:03am
post #227 of 229
Looks like Furman offers a solution that could work for automating the amps behind a baffle.

Their orginal product the MP20 is no longer manufactured but still available for ~ $160-$190 online.

Their new product the CN20MP CN20MP looks like its priced around ~$230

Although both units are rated at 20amp total, either will handle 20amp through a single receptacle according to Furmans tech support. -note nema 5-20 T slot.

With that said, by the time 2 of these are purchased I would be well on the way to the cost of a "Total Swithching" solution that could eaisly be used for all my amps. ASD 120 So I'll probably pull the power bridges back to the EQ closet.
post #228 of 229
Brad,

Lowell make some products that might work: http://www.fullcompass.com/common/files/7401-RPC-1%20Specs.pdf

Alternatively, if you can handle a soldering iron, you could make your own. This is my DIY dual 20A switching outlet.

Cheers.

- Paul
Edited by Moggie - 1/15/14 at 9:47pm
post #229 of 229
Very nice Paul.. my issue is not with the soldering iron.. its with all the squiggly lines in your illustration rolleyes.gif
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