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Help Me Build Crites CS-1 Speakers - Page 3

post #61 of 97
Thread Starter 
hmm....i am thinking maybe put some gorilla glue on it to keep it flat?
post #62 of 97
They make filler specifically for these types of things. Don't use gorilla glue. It bubbles, expands, and is ugly.
post #63 of 97
Thread Starter 
is this the bondo type you're talking about nyt?

do i need to cut the ripped piece off first? and then fill it with the wood (bondo) filler?

right now, the ripped piece is sticking out too much.
post #64 of 97
wood filler, get it under the piece, hold the piece down so it sticks with it, then sand and add more filler as necessary.
post #65 of 97
Thread Starter 
thanks, i guess this is the one i want?

elmer's natural wood filler?

http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Inter...atalogId=10053
post #66 of 97
Thread Starter 
guys, i heard some folks using dampening material on their horns and woofers. is this necessary? if so, what materials/products?

thanks
post #67 of 97
How about adding some filler. Sanding down flat. Then adding 1/8" veneer to the top of both cabinets to make them identical?
post #68 of 97
Thread Starter 
thanks guys, i've decided to live with the defect.

it seems a bit of extra work just to fix it. i took it as a "lesson learned" for the next cab build.
post #69 of 97
Thread Starter 
almost ready. this is after a few rounds of amber shellac and sanding.

you can see some of the cracks/chips near the edges.

i kinda like the clear shellac more than this amber. i know it darkens the woods, but it just doesn't seem to bring out the grains as nicely as the clear shellac.

just need to add some bracing and damping materials, and it's ready for drivers to go in.






post #70 of 97
Those chips would drive me nuts if I didn't fill them in.
Now that you know the color, you might look for a color matching wood putty.

Looks great otherwise!
post #71 of 97
Thread Starter 
yes, i thought about filling up those chips but just too darn lazy. and it doesn't bother me that much. i am not a perfectionist at all.

now, i need to find where to get some polyester batting to line up the internal.
post #72 of 97
If I'm worried about anything sticking to the clamp while it dries, I'll just stick a piece of wax paper between the wood and the clamp and that seems to work pretty well.
post #73 of 97
Thread Starter 
yeah, i got lazy this time. i usually have a piece of spare wood between the clamp and the cab.
post #74 of 97
Thread Starter 
and one speaker is done. sounds pretty darn good in mono.










post #75 of 97
Thread Starter 
and here it is in the room, on top of my diy mfw-15 sub.





post #76 of 97
Thread Starter 
a few more better shots......




post #77 of 97
Very nice smorkarz, very nice. NOW CLEAN UP THOSE CORDS!!!!!
post #78 of 97
Congrats!
post #79 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post
almost ready. this is after a few rounds of amber shellac and sanding.


Maybe it's the picture bringing out way more detail than if we were there, but it looks like more sanding would have been required to remove the horizontal bands seen here.

How do they sound?
post #80 of 97
Thread Starter 
yup, i have virtually no staining skills as you can see overlaps and varied light/dark areas.

i sanded 220, 320, and 400 grits after each coat of shellac. it's very smooth, but could use a few more coats/sandings.

they sounded really nice, the vocals/highs were very clear. i think i need to listen to the mid bass a bit more as it seems a bit lacking. maybe it needs to break in a little, or it got overpowered by the 15" sub. i have only listened to it for about an hour.
post #81 of 97
Thread Starter 
speaker #2 is being glued/clamped!







post #82 of 97
Thread Starter 
one can almost never have enough clamps.
post #83 of 97
How does this exponential horn compare to something like an econowave or 4pi? I don't know anything about waveguides and I saw this at audiokarma
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zilch View Post

That horn is an exponential. You'll be missing one of the defining principles of eWave -- constant directivity. Get the right waveguides.... :yes:
post #84 of 97
Thread Starter 
i really don't know, since i have not heard either an ewave or a 4pi. i'll let the experts chime in.

but i do know that my next build will be 3 4pi for the front stage.
post #85 of 97
Thread Starter 
per parham's white paper.

"....meaning the cross-section of the horn is exponentially proportional to its length. These have long, narrow throats with ever expanding mouths. The advantage of this kind of horn is it tends to have large bandwidth, providing a good acoustic load at both high and low frequency. One can expect an exponential horn to provide adequate SPL, even response and low distortion over its passband.
The problem with an exponential horn is it tends to beam at high frequencies. As a result, only listeners that are directly in front of the speaker will hear high frequencies. ......"
post #86 of 97
Thread Starter 
both speakers are done!






post #87 of 97
Thread Starter 
while they sounded nice, i ran some tests and it's a bit surprising.

looks like i am falling off at around 10khz. i was expecting this not to fall off unitl around 18khz.



post #88 of 97
That uses the econowave D220ti CD doesn't it?
I don't remember mine extending very high either.

Btw, try angling the speakers so they cross just in front of your face. Kind of like a 45 degree angle.
post #89 of 97
Thread Starter 
this is the d220ti 16 ohm. yes i did "toe in" the speakers.

i also try to push them against the corners, as well as bringing them forth about a feet from the walls.
post #90 of 97
Are you using the Radio Shack SPL meter? It's not very accurate up high.
I couldn't find my econowave measurements, but I found it for another set of speakers (CV factory, not DIY) and they rolled off big time right at 10k also. I used the digital RS meter.
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