Official Panasonic DMP-BDT110/210/310 Owners Thread - Page 150

I think the A2000/A3000 stinks at scaling, so I let the player do it. As far as I can tell the tv does no interpolation between lines like a true upconverter would. So it basically just zooms in on the 480, jaggies and all. If you're a purist, maybe that's what you want. But IMO it looks terrible.

never heard back from anyone, oh well. i guess i don't post enough on the board....
for what its worth, i ended up letting the 210 handle the decoding and sending via PCM to my onkyo-605. i believe i'm still getting lossless TrueHD/DTS-HDMA to my receiver (which is what i was hoping someone on here could help confirm) , even though the 210 reformats 5.1 or 6.1 into 7.1 when sending via PCM.
the reason i opted not to bitstream is because when bitstreaming to the 605, you lose the ability to use the Audyssey setting on the 605. i prefer to keep the Audyssey setting, as its a huge & obvious improvement with my 7.1 setup.

I have to send PCM to my Yamaha YHT-S400, because it lacks the HD audio decoders (but supports multi-channel PCM). I can tell that I'm getting multi-channel PCM, because when I switch a DVD to stereo (or stream a Netflix title in stereo), the Yamaha's "PLII" indicator comes on, telling me it's processing a 2-channel signal with Dolby ProLogic II.

FWIW, I have read several reliable sources that claim there's no difference where you do the decoding.

Good deal; that's what I was thinking/hoping. Thanks for your input!!!

In theory that should be true for the lossless encodings, Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA; you can't decode them into anything except the uncompressed bits that they were made from. The algorithms for decoding all the other digital sound formats may leave room for improvement and its possible that some enhancement are best performed while decoding.

I recently replaced a 5 y/o Onkyo HTiB AVR that couldn't decode the "advance" formats with a Onkyo TX-NR509 because I bought a Roku 2, whose Netflix player cannot decode the DD+ 5.1 sound available on some titles. I've compared the bitstreamed 5.1 channel DD+ from my BDT110 to the PCM processed-in-the-BD-player version and I think that the former is superior. It's difficult to compare though, since it requires quite a little chunk of time to switch from one to the other and restart the Netflix player--I could be fooling myself. (I use the after-plane-crash-havok-on-the-beach scene near the beginning of the Lost pilot for testing).

I have had my DMP-BDT110 for a few months and have it connected to a Sony KDL-26V4000 and wonder why when I switch it on does the TV very quickly flick through in the top left of the screen "480i" then "out of range then back to "480i", out of range before coming up with "1080i 50 ..." for a few seconds and the displaying the home screen. It is almost like the TV is searching for the correct resolution. The player is set to 1080i.

Thanks

So is one HDMI output for Video and Audio and one for just Audio.?

And as far as 1.4 compliance I am not convinced it always need be as some are reporting passing 3D video threugh only 1.3 compliant recievers with no issues.

Which color space should I use on the 310 with a Panasonic VT30, 4:4:4 or 4:2:2? Or, if it's user preference, what should I look for and what kind of material would show it (I've read about banding but am unclear as to what it is or how to find it).

Thanks!

Got my Avatar 3D today, 4 weeks exactly after I mailed it. Very impressive. It showed up about a week ago on the Panasonic status site.

As mentioned before, unfortunetly for me there has been a flood of them posted to Amazon recently, part of me wonders if I should hold off for a few weeks till people want to buy them up for Christmas gifts... or can post at a higher price and leave it up for awhile I suppose.

Do you bitstream the dd5.1 content off standard disks/cable/etc. as well as your BR lossless DTS-MA? I put the dolby stuff on bitstream as all that still gives audyssey ability. I have considered wanting to gain the audyssey back for the lossless br stuff via pcm also and in testing it out the full MA is there. You can see exactly what your outputting via your remotes Display button/Play/information tab. For instance if you choose to put bd secondary audio 'on' the player then only puts out the 1.5mbps dts core instead of 4.5mbps MA and is observable there on screen. Please confirm you have latest update installed for receiver as I think that makes a difference in being able to see the 'hd master' light up on its front if bitstreaming the full MA or only the core. Thanx for mentioning this as PCM is deffinately the way to get the full signal and the audyssey at same time... Although still very dynamic and powerful at 1.5mbps I can hear a slight punchier difference as well as stronger/discreet channel seperation when doing the full MA. The audio swirling around the room (up high specifically)on beginning of Transformers is an example where I hear the difference and I only doing 5.1 right now.
..I do not however always want to be looking at pcm multi lit up all the time on front of my receiver for my other content.. Settings in the 605 are both complex yet wonderful for setting up default sound field selections depending on the audio encoding type. I forget it all and have to relearn it actually everytime I mess with anything..lol. My only complaint on the thing is I can't get it to default/switch back to cable input after being done with my br player... Do you know about the 605's hidden menu that deals with default upscaling settings? Search for that and receiver update info on the 605 thread is my suggestion..

Double check that you don't have BD Live disabled.

Can someone explain to me what the advanced settings are and what they should be set to? First off they're only available when a bluray is playing and they include chroma, super clarity I think and something else? What are they for and what do they do?

Why not Ebay? Is Amazon better?

I posted about how good Amazon's sales facility was a while back. I'd considered selling my disc on eBay, but people were saying that they were getting more on Amazon at the time. I'd also looked into the process of selling something on eBay and was a bit bewildered by it. Not so with Amazon--you find a listing for the item that you want to sell and click the "Sell on Amazon" button and your item can be listed in a few minutes--no writing an ad, no taking and posting photos. When you get their e-mail notification that it's sold, you can go log into your seller's account and they'll hook you up to sites to buy paid postage labels with any set of options that you can print immediately. It was very, very cool and nearly effortless.

Back when I sold mine (17 September--I'd had it for several months procrastinating), most listings were still asking $130, with one asking $90. I put mine up for $110 on Friday night and got a notification that it'd sold on Saturday morning. It took a couple of weeks to get paid and it was $92 after Amazon's cut, but who cares--it's all gravy .

Looks like most people are asking for $80 for new copies now (with several for less, $62 being the least). Of course, there's no auction option at Amazon--looks like one sold at auction for $98 at eBay yesterday, but most are selling for their "Buy It Now" prices, some as low as $50).

It's suggested to turn off chroma and super resolution to 0. However, I found an interesting thing happened when I chose "Fine" for Detail Clarity (or whatever it's called where this selection is possible), the picture got brighter! In fact, it seemed to boost the overall lumen intensity for my Panny 7000 projector. I now get good results in Cinema 2 mode where it was just passable before.

I read that it was also suggested to set this to off, but I can use all the brightness I can get for 3D and I don't see any detrimental effects.

P.S. Just got my Avatar disk today from UPS exactly at 5 weeks! Not too bad.

I sold my copy on eBay about 2 weeks ago for $103. I started the auction price at $50. Strangely, the guy who bought it was buying many other copies from other people and is now listed as "not a registered user."

Ditto. Mine arrived exactly four weeks afterward as well. The rebate house must have gone on a processing binge at the right time.

Too bad the market is flooded at the moment, but it's just found money as far as I see it, so any amount is fine. Personally, I'd never pay that much for a single movie anyway, but I'm glad there are those who do.

Unfortunately they don't offer the AVatar promotion in Canada unless you buy a panasonic 3D Tv. Cheap buggers

I got a 210 for a rear bedroom in my home. I must be living right, I got the 3D disc 2 weeks after I mailed the rebate form. It was sold on Amazon within 1 hour for $75. The market is definitely flooded with these things right now, there were 5 pages of listings on Amazon. The prices will probably keep on going down unless the Black Friday or Christmas sales bring a lot of new owners of 3D TV's.

OTOH, it doesn't say a lot for 3D if so many people are selling these discs.

I've purchased many 210's, removed the UPC's, sold the units as new/unopened, but UPC removed, and sold the 3D blu rays in separate auctions. Average profit after all is said and done on each set was about $100.

Your best venue is a bid style auction on ebay. People like to get into bidding on these things. I usually start mine out at about 79, takes a bit for the first bidder, but then it's off to the races for about $40 or so until auction close. I usually do 7 day listings, but have sold a couple on 5 day. I know some start theirs lower, but since bid style's are free to insert (up to 50 per month) I want my first bid (in the event it never gets a 2nd) to be the minimum I would want the item to sell for.

For me it wasn't about 3D. In fact the movie is pretty neat. I have watched it in 3D twice, and even sold that particular blu ray, mentioned in the ad as being watched for $97, only a few dollars less than the sealed ones. I will worry about a digital copy of it, or a disc of it later when the hype is gone.

I don't have a 3D TV (my right eye was injured when I was a child, so parallax-based 3D effects don't work for me). I didn't actually buy the BD player to play BDs on--I bought it because it had an Amazon streaming player and VUDU. When I do occasionally watch a BD, it starts much faster and draws a tiny fraction as much power as my launch model 60GB PS3.

This is perfectly legal but seems somehow wrong .

IMO, it just says a lot about the popularity of the Avatar movie.

I've purchased 3 Panny's. Kept one Avatar and sold the other two (one of them today). Might sell the third one as well in the next month or so since I've watched it 4 times already and I'm not one to watch the same movie multiple times usually.

Seeing how expensive/rare some of these 3D Blurays are. I would like to make back ups of them as my kids tend to destroy everything.

I did some research and looks like the BDT110 would be a great Blu-ray player. However, does it have good compatibility for BD-R, primarily DL BD-R's (50GB). I will be using the best BD-R brand, Verbatim.

Thank You Kindly

I just noticed that the Viera Connect market icon has a little red circle on the corner of it specifying a count of recently added apps. When enter the Markete app, each category has a little red-circled-number saying how many new apps and new apps have a red-circled asterisk. Mine said "2" and it turned out that there are now Facebook and "Developer's" apps (the latter being a tool for developing Viera Connect applications, I'm guessing for getting your app onto a platform over the network).

Anyone got any ideas?

i am thinking of purchasing the dmpbdt110 player
i have been reading thru this thread but havent found all the info i need.. thread is so dam long LOL

all i really am interested in is the 2D to 3D conversion
can anyone comment

can you only convert 2D to 3D for DVDs and Blurays? or can this convert MKv,s AVIs, or streaming content too?
how is the conversion? i've seen some TVs that do the conversion and some arent too bad at all.
i have a projector so this 2D to 3D would be nice if it works good

cheers to all

2D to 3D Conversion is always hit and miss.

After all when you only have a 2D Movie - WHAT ARE YOU EXPECTING
You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out the movie is 2D.

I can suggest an independent review - HERE

HDMI handshake is shaky.

link doesnt work

i understand its like taking a hamburger and making it into a steak.. it just wont be the same .... but i have seen TVs do the conversion and it looks fair