Originally Posted by notnyt
The LMS driver in the same system seemed to measure out at about 2db more sensitive, provided cleaner output overall, and didn't drop off at all with the higher frequency bass like the malx seemed to.
The maelstrom drivers were good, the LMS are just better.
All things being equal, the LMS model amazingly close to the MaelX. That 2db of extra sensitivity shows up on the higher end. For some reason, I thought I recalled reading that the LMS wasn't a good match for an LLT design. The model speaks otherwise. So, I'd have no problem using the LMS in an LLT design. It will just all come down to how money looks when it comes time to make a final decision. $810 isn't chump change... I know I poo pooed it earlier, but that was in a sealed alignment, and the required wattage for that really eats into my budget.
Having heard both, do you think the cleaner output of the LMS over the MaelX is worth twice the price? I mean, did the MaelX sound bad (before the shorting rings fell off), or did they just sound not as good?
Here's the model I did. Red is LMS, Gray is MaelX.
As for my LLT design, I learned how to make better models. Here is where I am at. These models ARE to scale.
This is a picture looking into the internal side of the port. Is it fine to have the flare on one side, or do I need to put a collar around it?
Port exit with 50mm flare
The Business End
One thing I will have to do in the fine tuning stage is adjust the enclosure volume to account for the endcaps... although I think the SonoSub program does that. At the very least I'll have to take the center brace into account.
I think I will also look into a thicker tube. The place I'm buying from can make tubes with a wall thickness up to 25mm. Between that and a center brace, it would take a lot to put a dent in it!
Okay, current questions:
1) There are 6 80mm cutouts in the center brace. Is this enough to prevent any issues? I plan to put insulation inbetween the top and the center brace. With something in the center, will I have to stuff below it also?
2) The top endcap looks like it will be quite heavy with everything attached to it... possibly top heavy. What if I were to put a gasket on the lip and just set it down into the tube so that it can be removed if necessary? Would it's weight hold it in place, or would the sub bounce it up and down like a piston?
3) Okay... nuts and bolts! I'll start looking right after I post this, but what are the best ways to mount the driver, and attach the legs? I suppose for the legs, I can just drill a nice large pilot on either side, counter sink the bottom of the baseplate, and screw a lag bolt into either end. For the top, may need a double-sided bolt to attach the legs to the endcap. For the tippy top... Hmm, don't want to have bolts sticking out the top. Perhaps I'll just drill a shallow hole for each post and simply set it on top?
4) Any obvious glaring mistakes jump out at you when looking at the models?
I'll update the models to reflect hardware once you tell me what I need to do.