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Official LG 47LW5600/55LW5600 "Passive 3D" Owners Thread - Page 232

post #6931 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMSpeed View Post

If you guys are having trouble with your HDMI input like me, check these out:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...+saver&x=0&y=0

Helps me protect my inputs and route my wires better.

Thanks , ordered one of each. If you have an HDMI cable with a large end they are hard to fit into this set and these will solve that.
post #6932 of 8217
What is the latest firmware version?

When a new firmware is released, my TV will always give me a notification, but when search for the update on the TV, it tells me that I have the latest. This happens for 1-2 weeks and then one day, it finds the firmware update.

Does anyone else have this issue?
post #6933 of 8217
That's probably done purposely to mitigate the server from being inundated with demand for the firmware.
post #6934 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by endustry View Post

I have seen that may people are unsuccessful with audio DTS and optical out. I am having 2 problems. First problem... no laughing... I have canceled my premium TV service a few months back as I just can't cope with paying $50+ per month for TV ( do subscribe to netflix and hulu, and have apple TV). I actually use an over the air antenna which pick up about 20+ HD Channels in my area. The problem is that I can't get sound via optical and sound only comes out the TV speakers. This is also the same problem when I play video files from the USB. Sound is only coming out the TV speakers. I am shocked that I do not have any audio RCA/Phone outputs although I prefer the optical.


Any suggestions or is the TV limited for audio out?

My setup is very similar to yours (I cut the cord, er Satellite, years ago). I just turned off the TV speakers which sends everything through the optical out. Works great except for DTS which isn't passed through (ARGH!). Actually that's my only real complaint about this TV. I emailed support about it and I urge everyone else to do the same. Blocking DTS in 2012 is no longer acceptable.
post #6935 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by huntm856 View Post

I have an upscaling DVD player...

One other thing I will complain about is the way the set formats 4:3 source material from e.g. DVDs. It seems to me that it should scale these at 4:3 to fill the screen vertically, but I get a small centered picture with bars all the way around, and the cinema zoom feature won't expand it without stretching it to a distorted 16:9 aspect ratio. I think I read that this is just the way the set handles this stuff, which if true is pretty dumb. Am I missing something?

If you are using an upscaling DVD player the settings on the DVD PLAYER are what you need to change. The TV should be set to Just Scan if the DVD player is outputting 1080i/p or possibly 16:9 if it's outputing 720p.

Also make sure you have updated to the latest firmware for the TV since there was some funky behaviour in older firmware versions (not a bad idea for your DVD player too if it has that ability).
post #6936 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreLaplume View Post

Ok, I just popped in my used Sherlock Holmes Blockbust Blue Ray. It is much much better than: Field of Dreams....but still not as nice as my hd channels.

This begs two questions...
1) Why do old tv shows like Seinfeld pop on my hd channel and films do not.

2) Why would a studio take a classic like Field of Dreams and do such a crappy transfer job with it...just makes me less likely to buy any movies made prior the the last few years.

Um, might I ask what kind of Blu-ray player you have AND how you have it connected to the TV? In my experience when properly setup Blu-ray ALWAYS looks better than over the air TV, much less cable channels which are usually over compressed and include lots of digital artifacts.

Some poor transfers to Blu-ray don't look much better than upscaled DVD's but those are not generally an issue for anything released in the last few years (regardless of when the movie was originally made - it took a some time for studios to start properly making blu-ray discs, just like it did for DVDs.)

Understand that film grain is actually part of the original source in many cases. For the first time Blu-ray has enough resolution to actually make film grain visible in the same way it is at the theater. The quality of the original film used is usually part of the films budget, or the choice of the director. Some directors choose film with more grain to get a "grittier" look for example.
post #6937 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadraQ View Post

If you are using an upscaling DVD player the settings on the DVD PLAYER are what you need to change. The TV should be set to Just Scan if the DVD player is outputting 1080i/p or possibly 16:9 if it's outputing 720p.

Also make sure you have updated to the latest firmware for the TV since there was some funky behaviour in older firmware versions (not a bad idea for your DVD player too if it has that ability).

Thanks. I suspected this might be the case but I've not found anything in the DVD player menu to adjust its output. I will have to dig up the manual.
post #6938 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadraQ View Post

Um, might I ask what kind of Blu-ray player you have AND how you have it connected to the TV? In my experience when properly setup Blu-ray ALWAYS looks better than over the air TV, much less cable channels which are usually over compressed and include lots of digital artifacts.

Some poor transfers to Blu-ray don't look much better than upscaled DVD's but those are not generally an issue for anything released in the last few years (regardless of when the movie was originally made - it took a some time for studios to start properly making blu-ray discs, just like it did for DVDs.)

Understand that film grain is actually part of the original source in many cases. For the first time Blu-ray has enough resolution to actually make film grain visible in the same way it is at the theater. The quality of the original film used is usually part of the films budget, or the choice of the director. Some directors choose film with more grain to get a "grittier" look for example.



LG BD610 connected via monosource hdmi....
post #6939 of 8217
so I have to calibrate the HDMI port for my br...any suggestions...
post #6940 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick The Great View Post

FWIW, I am using an HDMI cable, have the input label set to PC, and the picture setting on GAME... I also took it a step further and set my own res settings to 1360 x 768 within the Xbox 360... I do believe this helped the slightest bit as well... I've yet to try the VGA connection with the new firmware, but only because I didn't feel any more testing was needed... I believe this fix will pacify 95% of the gamers out there, as the input lag is almost 0 to none, with only the slightest bit noticeable... I would love if someone would perform an actual test on the input lag after the update...
NTG

Nick and everyone,

I am, too, an avid gamer, and a new owner of this TV. I didn't know anything about the display lag issue with those new TV since it didn't exist before on my older Toshiba DLP RPTV. I suspected something was going on when I lost 4 Street Fighters 4 games in a row, and lost quite a bit of points even losing to lower level players. Halo games also felt very different. Once I adjusted to "Game Mode", things felt a bit better.

Could you clarify what you meant by "input lable set to PC"? My Xbox 360 is connected through the HDMI, and I dug through the setting and didn't find anything close to that.

Thanks!
post #6941 of 8217
Hi guys,

I would like to get your opinion on this dilemma I am having. I got tired of replacing the bulb on my DLP RPTV every year, so last week I went out to the local Costco and pick up this set(well, the 5700 really, but I did the firmware hack).

I love the PQ so far, and the passive 3D, both me and my daughter enjoys watching the various IMAX 3D programs. The only problem is the TV I was replacing is a 62", and this one is a 55". Originally I thought I wasn't going to feel the difference, well, turns out I was wrong. I looked up the price difference with the newer 65" model, which is still over $3k, so I couldn't justify to spend double the amount just for the additional 10" viewing diagonal.

Today, however, I noticed they have a Panny P65ST30, a 65" plasma, active 3D, for sale for $1699, which is just $280 more than my 5700. Now I am seriously considering returning this set so I can get the Panny. The only drawback is obviously the Active 3D, but it's hard for me to justify keeping the TV since really, 95% of the time it will be used for 2D viewing, and 5% for 3D. And I would certainly enjoy the extra 10" during that 95% of the time. Any thoughts?

Any suggestions are welcome.
post #6942 of 8217
I have been waiting a few days now for the OTA update from 4.02.28 to 4.02.62 so far nothing has come up. I don't like the idea of wasting any $ on a usb flash drive as I do not need one. Many will think wow cheapskate there like 10 dollars, i have no problem buying one but shouldn't the update have came already so i am asking does anybody know how i can update my tv withought purchasing a usb flash drive. maybe a reboot? or something along those lines??
post #6943 of 8217
On the "Secrets of Home Theater and Hi Fidelity" website there is a review of the 55lw5600 that says the following with regard to watching 24fps 3D material:

Quote:


Watching 3D content looked very much like True-Motion was turned on, but when going to the menu, it said it was turned off. After a bit of research, it was discovered that the LG processes all 3D signals at 60 frames per second. So in the case of film material shot at 24 fps, the LG was smoothing out the image with added frames of video. Unfortunately, there is no way to currently turn off this feature.

Is this correct? I thought that the LG 55lw5600 and 55lw6500 use a 3:2 frame cadence when showing 24fps material in 3D, but that they do NOT do any smoothing or frame interpolation as long as Tru-Motion is turned off.

Can anyone confirm how these LG's deal with 24fps 3D material? If it's true that frame interpolation is always active with 24fps 3D material, this would be a deal breaker for me.

Thanks,

Larry
post #6944 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by upa123 View Post

Hi guys,

I would like to get your opinion on this dilemma I am having. I got tired of replacing the bulb on my DLP RPTV every year, so last week I went out to the local Costco and pick up this set(well, the 5700 really, but I did the firmware hack).

I love the PQ so far, and the passive 3D, both me and my daughter enjoys watching the various IMAX 3D programs. The only problem is the TV I was replacing is a 62", and this one is a 55". Originally I thought I wasn't going to feel the difference, well, turns out I was wrong. I looked up the price difference with the newer 65" model, which is still over $3k, so I couldn't justify to spend double the amount just for the additional 10" viewing diagonal.

Today, however, I noticed they have a Panny P65ST30, a 65" plasma, active 3D, for sale for $1699, which is just $280 more than my 5700. Now I am seriously considering returning this set so I can get the Panny. The only drawback is obviously the Active 3D, but it's hard for me to justify keeping the TV since really, 95% of the time it will be used for 2D viewing, and 5% for 3D. And I would certainly enjoy the extra 10" during that 95% of the time. Any thoughts?

Any suggestions are welcome.


This is a hard one for any one person to answer. You really have to do what makes you happy and makes you feel like your are getting the best bang for the buck. If an extra 10" is what will make your viewing the most enjoyable, then that is what you should do.
post #6945 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadraQ View Post

If you are using an upscaling DVD player the settings on the DVD PLAYER are what you need to change. The TV should be set to Just Scan if the DVD player is outputting 1080i/p or possibly 16:9 if it's outputing 720p.

I found it. Turns out Sony has two sets of video output settings on this sort of DVD player.

The 'main' video setting affects only the component out. Video settings for HDMI output are controlled separately in the HDMI menu.

I set the output to 1080p in the DVD player HDMI menu and the TV to Just scan, and now everything is displaying correctly.

Thanks for the tip.
post #6946 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by upa123 View Post

Hi guys,

I would like to get your opinion on this dilemma I am having. I got tired of replacing the bulb on my DLP RPTV every year, so last week I went out to the local Costco and pick up this set(well, the 5700 really, but I did the firmware hack).

I love the PQ so far, and the passive 3D, both me and my daughter enjoys watching the various IMAX 3D programs. The only problem is the TV I was replacing is a 62", and this one is a 55". Originally I thought I wasn't going to feel the difference, well, turns out I was wrong. I looked up the price difference with the newer 65" model, which is still over $3k, so I couldn't justify to spend double the amount just for the additional 10" viewing diagonal.

Today, however, I noticed they have a Panny P65ST30, a 65" plasma, active 3D, for sale for $1699, which is just $280 more than my 5700. Now I am seriously considering returning this set so I can get the Panny. The only drawback is obviously the Active 3D, but it's hard for me to justify keeping the TV since really, 95% of the time it will be used for 2D viewing, and 5% for 3D. And I would certainly enjoy the extra 10" during that 95% of the time. Any thoughts?

Any suggestions are welcome.


What about getting the 65LW5600? I am would assume that the price will be around that of the Panny. The Panny is a very good TV but it is more reflective than the LG and the higher cost of 3D glasses.

Either way, you cannot go wrong... it comes down to the 3D viewing which I prefer passive for multiple reasons.
post #6947 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by huntm856 View Post

Thanks. I suspected this might be the case but I've not found anything in the DVD player menu to adjust its output. I will have to dig up the manual.

Don't forget to update the TV firmware as well if you haven't. There were some issues with older firmware that would display content with black bars around it, instead of scaling it to the screen.
post #6948 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreLaplume View Post

so I have to calibrate the HDMI port for my br...any suggestions...

If you're not affraid to do the EZ Menu hack (and I wouldn't be it's very simple), the THX settings (either normal for a dark room, or bright room for, well a bright room) are about as perfect as you can get.
post #6949 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by upa123 View Post

Nick and everyone,

I am, too, an avid gamer, and a new owner of this TV. I didn't know anything about the display lag issue with those new TV since it didn't exist before on my older Toshiba DLP RPTV. I suspected something was going on when I lost 4 Street Fighters 4 games in a row, and lost quite a bit of points even losing to lower level players. Halo games also felt very different. Once I adjusted to "Game Mode", things felt a bit better.

Could you clarify what you meant by "input lable set to PC"? My Xbox 360 is connected through the HDMI, and I dug through the setting and didn't find anything close to that.

Thanks!

I believe the tip about labeling the input PC comes from the time of old firmware. The real trick is to get the latest firmware, which currently is being rolled out gradually from the LG servers. The fastest way to get it right now is to download it directly and use a USB key to do the upgrade. Everyone seems to agree that it reduces lag (you should still use game mode, however).
post #6950 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by lalittle View Post

On the "Secrets of Home Theater and Hi Fidelity" website there is a review of the 55lw5600 that says the following with regard to watching 24fps 3D material:



Is this correct? I thought that the LG 55lw5600 and 55lw6500 use a 3:2 frame cadence when showing 24fps material in 3D, but that they do NOT do any smoothing or frame interpolation as long as Tru-Motion is turned off.

Can anyone confirm how these LG's deal with 24fps 3D material? If it's true that frame interpolation is always active with 24fps 3D material, this would be a deal breaker for me.

Thanks,

Larry

I'm not sure if this should be a deal breaker actually. Normally I would agree with you, but there is a reason that James Cameron is pushing 3D tech to 48 or 60 fps. I loved Avatar, but the one thing that drove me crazy was the blur issues of 24 fps. Keep in mind this is a 3D only issue. For 2D 24 fps is fine, and it's what gives the "film" look. But inherently that means blur, and in 3D when a sharp edge is lost, the 3D effect is diminished, even compromised. Just another perspective on the issue to consider.
post #6951 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadraQ View Post

I believe the tip about labeling the input PC comes from the time of old firmware. The real trick is to get the latest firmware, which currently is being rolled out gradually from the LG servers. The fastest way to get it right now is to download it directly and use a USB key to do the upgrade. Everyone seems to agree that it reduces lag (you should still use game mode, however).

Thanks, I found the labeling last night after tweaking with the TV a bit more. I do have the latest firmware installed using the USB drive. I am not sure if the labeling would actually help, it seems to be more of a visibility kind of thing to remind the user what that input is for, rather than changing any behavior for the TV.

I would be curious what settings can one does to get the "Game Mode" setting, say using one of the two ISF modes.
post #6952 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbielowicz View Post

What about getting the 65LW5600? I am would assume that the price will be around that of the Panny. The Panny is a very good TV but it is more reflective than the LG and the higher cost of 3D glasses.

Either way, you cannot go wrong... it comes down to the 3D viewing which I prefer passive for multiple reasons.

I too also much prefer passive, which is why I got the LG in the first place, hence the dilemma. :P

The 65LW5600 is still around $2500 or so while the Panny 65 now can be had for around $1700, so somewhat comparable with the 55LW5600.
post #6953 of 8217
I just found out that the 3D viewpoint setting is what makes the 3D field of view appear to have more or less depth.

On stock settings, the 3D is very mild IMO. I adjusted the depth slider to 15 (can only adjust this in 2D conversion), but it didn't seem to affect much.

I found that by adjusting the 3D viewpoint to +2 made a HUGE difference in overall 3D viewing. Makes the 3D appear better.. more 3D.

I never understood what this setting does because of the name, I thought it was for off-axis viewing, but it actually seems to affect depth more than the depth slider does.
-10 will make the depth to INTO the TV picture, +10 will make the depth come OUT from the TV picture. I found this was very sensitive.. do not crank it up. Changing to +2 was perfect for me, any more and it broke the illusion a bit because the viewpoint was too extreme.

Anyway.. if you find the 3D mild, adjust that setting + a few numbers and be amazed!
post #6954 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by upa123 View Post

Hi guys,

I would like to get your opinion on this dilemma I am having. I got tired of replacing the bulb on my DLP RPTV every year, so last week I went out to the local Costco and pick up this set(well, the 5700 really, but I did the firmware hack).

I love the PQ so far, and the passive 3D, both me and my daughter enjoys watching the various IMAX 3D programs. The only problem is the TV I was replacing is a 62", and this one is a 55". Originally I thought I wasn't going to feel the difference, well, turns out I was wrong. I looked up the price difference with the newer 65" model, which is still over $3k, so I couldn't justify to spend double the amount just for the additional 10" viewing diagonal.

Today, however, I noticed they have a Panny P65ST30, a 65" plasma, active 3D, for sale for $1699, which is just $280 more than my 5700. Now I am seriously considering returning this set so I can get the Panny. The only drawback is obviously the Active 3D, but it's hard for me to justify keeping the TV since really, 95% of the time it will be used for 2D viewing, and 5% for 3D. And I would certainly enjoy the extra 10" during that 95% of the time. Any thoughts?

Any suggestions are welcome.

Agreed with the previous advice given.
I have a 55LW5600 and picked up a plasma for the basement.
If your space is set up with the right lighting, then I think it's a great deal. $280 more for 10inches and a highly regarded plasma.
post #6955 of 8217
I'm going to get a 55lw5600 in 2-3 days. my plan is to:
1. connect to the all devices to the TV via HDMI
2. connect the 5600 optical audio to to my vintage Toshiba SD-6109C receiver which has an optical audio in (I think this is TOSLINK) ... it doesn't have HDMI

For the above HDMI connections I would use these cables:

6ft 28AWG High Speed HDMI® Cable w/Ferrite Cores

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


For 5600 to receiver I would use a6ft Optical Toslink 5.0mm OD Audio Cable.


Does this make sense?

Thanks!


Berto
post #6956 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netcruzer View Post

I just found out that the 3D viewpoint setting is what makes the 3D field of view appear to have more or less depth.

On stock settings, the 3D is very mild IMO. I adjusted the depth slider to 15 (can only adjust this in 2D conversion), but it didn't seem to affect much.

I found that by adjusting the 3D viewpoint to +2 made a HUGE difference in overall 3D viewing. Makes the 3D appear better.. more 3D.

I never understood what this setting does because of the name, I thought it was for off-axis viewing, but it actually seems to affect depth more than the depth slider does.
-10 will make the depth to INTO the TV picture, +10 will make the depth come OUT from the TV picture. I found this was very sensitive.. do not crank it up. Changing to +2 was perfect for me, any more and it broke the illusion a bit because the viewpoint was too extreme.

Anyway.. if you find the 3D mild, adjust that setting + a few numbers and be amazed!

When you adjust the viewpoint to far either way, you will start to see double images in the far left and right side if the image. Mostly noticable with verticle lines.
post #6957 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshacdcfan1 View Post

I have been waiting a few days now for the OTA update from 4.02.28 to 4.02.62 so far nothing has come up. I don't like the idea of wasting any $ on a usb flash drive as I do not need one. Many will think wow cheapskate there like 10 dollars, i have no problem buying one but shouldn't the update have came already so i am asking does anybody know how i can update my tv withought purchasing a usb flash drive. maybe a reboot? or something along those lines??

You must know someone with a flash drive you can borrow.
post #6958 of 8217
When I try to receive some channels directly from cable, I get bars all around the picture. Other channels fill the screen at 4:3 with bars only on the right and left edges. Once in awhile, a commercial will fill the screen but the main program doesn't. Is this due to the signal given by the cable company? I Can't find a setting to change this behavior . . . was annoying during the NFL playoffs. The TV is updated to the latest software. Is there a way to expand the screen without distorting to 16:9? Thanks.
post #6959 of 8217
Anyone have a problem with netflix. I was watching a movie and when it ended I went to watch something else and it says to many devices connected. I disconnected every device but it still says it.
post #6960 of 8217
Quote:
Originally Posted by slooowpoq View Post

When I try to receive some channels directly from cable, I get bars all around the picture. Other channels fill the screen at 4:3 with bars only on the right and left edges. Once in awhile, a commercial will fill the screen but the main program doesn't. Is this due to the signal given by the cable company? I Can't find a setting to change this behavior . . . was annoying during the NFL playoffs. The TV is updated to the latest software. Is there a way to expand the screen without distorting to 16:9? Thanks.

In 2D only in the menu on the far left in the Quick Menu screen. It's called Cinema something, you can't miss it. Don't confuse it with the Cinema mode which is in the menu second from the last on the left side.
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