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Official LG 47LW5600/55LW5600 "Passive 3D" Owners Thread - Page 260

post #7771 of 8097
Quote:
Originally Posted by r3fug33 View Post

How can I measure video/audio lag?

The only accurate way I know of is to use Rock Band and a Rock Band 2 guitar that can perform the auto calibration.
post #7772 of 8097
How do I get Hulu working again? Now it just goes to a black screen
post #7773 of 8097
Quote:
Originally Posted by talk show host View Post

How do I get Hulu working again? Now it just goes to a black screen

After the software update mine's doing the same thing. I did the initialize premium option, signed in and I can get into it but it takes two times and then it works. I go in let it go to black screen then exit go back in and it works.
post #7774 of 8097
Updated to 4.03.02 a few days ago. Now I notice a longer than usual lag time when changing from one channel to another.

It is a total black screen, audio continues from the previous channel until the new channel comes in, then it will change to the new channel.

Cablevision is the supplier, have not received any updates to their system.

Anyone else experience this or have a theory on how this occurs ?

Any fix for this ?
post #7775 of 8097
I have a question about the de-blur and de-judder settings; Are both of these required to be on (more than 0) for 120hz to work properly? I ask because I have a problem with the de-judder setting. Anything above 1 or 2 CAUSES screen judder. Is there a reason for this?
post #7776 of 8097
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsantsa View Post

I have a question about the de-blur and de-judder settings; Are both of these required to be on (more than 0) for 120hz to work properly? I ask because I have a problem with the de-judder setting. Anything above 1 or 2 CAUSES screen judder. Is there a reason for this?

I agree with you. If I use the Tru-Motion feature I keep de-judder at 1 or 2 and de-blur around 4 or 5. I'm starting to notice that it depends on if a show is filmed on videotape or film. If I'm watching the Letterman show (shot on video) the judder is out of control but I don't notice it so much on movies. Perhaps a little soap opera effect but sometimes that looks nice.
I guess it's a FPS issue. Also on British dramas like Masterpiece stuff, I get major judder. Perhaps British shows are shot at a different frames per second?
post #7777 of 8097
Just posted this in the 5700 forum, but figured since the sets are nearly identical, I'd post here too. Hope you enjoy.

I got this set about 80 days ago. For entirety of this time, except for vacations, whenever I have had a free moment, I have been tweaking the calibrations. To say I was obsessive would be an understatement. My wife thinks I'm nuts. But like a mad scientist working on a secret recipe, I finally have settled on a calibration that makes everything look like eye candy, at least to me. I've used this forum extensively as a troller, both pre-purchase, and post-purchase, and so I figured it was time to give as well as I get. I would love to hear anyone's thoughts on this 'secret recipe' if you try out. The one variable I would say is the brightness. I have it here at 55, but occasionally, I drop it down to 51, and even 49. Regardless, after fiddling with hundreds of combinations, this is what I've got. Hope you enjoy:

Aspect Ration: Just Scan
Energy Saving: off
Expert 1
Backlight: 100
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 55
H Sharpness: 70
V Sharpness: 70
Color: 64
Tint: 0

Expert settings:
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Noise Reduction: High
Mpeg: High
Super Res: On
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: On
Color Gamut: BT709
Edge Enhancer: High
Color Filter: Off
Color Temp: Medium
Gamma: 2.2
Method: 2 points
Pattern: Outer
ALL COLOR SETTINGS: 0
True Motion: Off of course!

Enjoy!
post #7778 of 8097
I have noticed something weird, the videos that i play seems some what fast like they are fast forwarding. Like the walking and other things just seem very quick and not smooth like it should be. I have it connected to my AVR and the sound is not out of sync or anything but the video is still fast.

This is my first 120Hz TV and what could be causing this? Is it my eyes or something like Truemotion or similar setting?
post #7779 of 8097
Yes, it's probably true motion. turn that horrible invention off. the only time to even consider it is for sports. it's a disgrace to film-making.

case in point: recently Peter Jackson took some clips of The Hobbit to the exhibitors convention. He had chosen to shoot the highly anticipated prequel to the Lord of the Rings trilogy at double the frame rate -- essentially Tru Motion. The first big-budget movie to be shot in tru motion. what happened?

He caused a mass panic. The exhibitors (theater owners) freaked out, and believe he has potentially ruined one of the biggest golden gooses of next year. Every exhibitor complained about the look of the film, the "Faster movement" that you experienced, the "soap opera" effect, etc.

I say turn it off and leave it off, but it's obviously a personal choice. Whatever works for you.
post #7780 of 8097
I had that off from the start but it still does it only when using DLNA and can't seem to figure out how to turn it off in DLNA.
post #7781 of 8097
Quote:
Originally Posted by glitch10777 View Post

Yes, it's probably true motion. turn that horrible invention off. the only time to even consider it is for sports. it's a disgrace to film-making.

case in point: recently Peter Jackson took some clips of The Hobbit to the exhibitors convention. He had chosen to shoot the highly anticipated prequel to the Lord of the Rings trilogy at double the frame rate -- essentially Tru Motion. The first big-budget movie to be shot in tru motion. what happened?

He caused a mass panic. The exhibitors (theater owners) freaked out, and believe he has potentially ruined one of the biggest golden gooses of next year. Every exhibitor complained about the look of the film, the "Faster movement" that you experienced, the "soap opera" effect, etc.

I say turn it off and leave it off, but it's obviously a personal choice. Whatever works for you.

I hate tru-motion as well, but I can't completely agree with your assessment of The Hobbit footage, especially for 3D. In 2D you could make the argument that it makes things look TOO real, and this makes it harder for people to suspend disbelief. But for 3D the increased frame rate can make a huge difference for the better. Anything that moves rapidly in 3D becomes blurry which significantly degrades the 3D effect making it harder for the brain to process and hampering the immersion. Increased FPS in 3D keeps objects sharp and keeps the magic of 3D stable.

As for 2D the jury is still out. The footage wasn't final and the duration of the preview short. Supposedly those who have watched for longer periods have found that they adjusted to the increased framerate and grew to like it. It'll be interesting to see for ourselves once it hits theaters.
post #7782 of 8097
The other thing that's been annoying me about this TV is that sometimes I cant find it on the network. It connects to the internet fine and never had an issues, but if I want to push content from my phone sometimes it will never show up and i have to go in and complete a network test after doing that the TV shows up fine.

The other weird thing is, if i set a static IP address it works like it should but never shows up on the router.

Has anyone else have issues like this or i it just my setup?

The TV is wired to a client bridge that is on the same network and subnet etc.
post #7783 of 8097
Hey guys, I just wanted to post something here regarding Input Lag when playing games on these TV's, this solution has worked for me and I'd like to know if it works for anyone else :


I suffered with input lag issue on this TV for quite a while, looked through all the forums for solutions and all that but I finally figured out a way to remove all the input lag. I can't notice any at all and I play a lot of first person shooters. I have no idea if any of these steps are redundant or not but I know this series of steps does remove all the input lag so that the frames look identical on my monitor as well as my tv in duplicate display mode.. Also I applied these settings to my xbox 360 display settings and really ripped up a few matches on the weekend much better than I've ever played

1. First, Set the input label to game ( PC may work also )

2. Go to Home->Setup->Picture and set the mode to Expert 1, turn basically everything off (noise reduction, 'super mpeg' blah blah etc) turn the backlight back up to 80 or 100 so it's not as dim, Ensure TruMotion and LED dimming is OFF

3. Exit that menu, and use the button on the remove at the top that says AV mode and set it to 'game' (this may be the redundant part but I think there is some inheritence regarding the stuff in expert 1 )

4. Now for the key to making it all work, Change the input to something else all together, then change it back to the Game Input you want, it's almost like you have to switch inputs for the changes on processing to really get applied.


I wasted many hours playing with settings but not changing inputs back and forth so I wasn't 'really' seeing the changes and assumed it wasn't working, Lame! Anyway post back if it works for you.


A little extra : Regarding the 3d on the TV you can really reduce ghosting quite a bit by setting the sharpness value to around 34. Also by using the RealD polarized 3d glasses from the theatre, they seem to work alot better than the ones you get from LG for ghosting reduction
post #7784 of 8097
Hi

I was wondering if anyone else was having issues on their 5600 with somewhat slow wi-fi performance with the included dongle. I seem to get more buffering on the set compared to what I get with my Sony BDP-S590, my NOOK tablet, and even my Samsung Android phone. All of which are also running wireless.

My setup at home is a Qwest DSL line with an Actiontech Q1000 wireless router. The modem status reports speeds are 12127/5119 kbps. In testing at speedtest.net I'm getting 11.62Mbps down and 4.57Mbps up, so it's pretty close to advertised speeds. Router is in a bedroom roughly 18 to 20 feet in a straight line to the set, two walls away. I have to run wireless as it's just too much of a PITA to get hardwires from the router to the Family room. I'm thinking about replacing the stock dongle with a WAP/bridge for better signal, or is my 12Mbps DSL line just too slow for proper streaming?

Has/is anyone using one in place of the dongle, and if so, what brand and how does it perform?

Thanks
post #7785 of 8097
Quote:
Originally Posted by Helk View Post

Hey guys, I just wanted to post something here regarding Input Lag when playing games on these TV's, this solution has worked for me and I'd like to know if it works for anyone else :


I suffered with input lag issue on this TV for quite a while, looked through all the forums for solutions and all that but I finally figured out a way to remove all the input lag. I can't notice any at all and I play a lot of first person shooters. I have no idea if any of these steps are redundant or not but I know this series of steps does remove all the input lag so that the frames look identical on my monitor as well as my tv in duplicate display mode.. Also I applied these settings to my xbox 360 display settings and really ripped up a few matches on the weekend much better than I've ever played

1. First, Set the input label to game ( PC may work also )

2. Go to Home->Setup->Picture and set the mode to Expert 1, turn basically everything off (noise reduction, 'super mpeg' blah blah etc) turn the backlight back up to 80 or 100 so it's not as dim, Ensure TruMotion and LED dimming is OFF

3. Exit that menu, and use the button on the remove at the top that says AV mode and set it to 'game' (this may be the redundant part but I think there is some inheritence regarding the stuff in expert 1 )

4. Now for the key to making it all work, Change the input to something else all together, then change it back to the Game Input you want, it's almost like you have to switch inputs for the changes on processing to really get applied.


I wasted many hours playing with settings but not changing inputs back and forth so I wasn't 'really' seeing the changes and assumed it wasn't working, Lame! Anyway post back if it works for you.


A little extra : Regarding the 3d on the TV you can really reduce ghosting quite a bit by setting the sharpness value to around 34. Also by using the RealD polarized 3d glasses from the theatre, they seem to work alot better than the ones you get from LG for ghosting reduction

I don't know...I found that just simply turning on Game Mode worked just fine for me...

Can anyone weigh in on this?
post #7786 of 8097
Just turning on game mode works fine for me too
post #7787 of 8097
If you say so, I thought that was the case when playing with an xbox 360 but I think using a controller doesn't let you really get a sense for how much delay there is. As soon as I hooked a computer up I could definitely detect the lag and my gaming skill greatly improved with the aforementioned fix
post #7788 of 8097
Quote:
Originally Posted by Helk View Post

Hey guys, I just wanted to post something here regarding Input Lag when playing games on these TV's, this solution has worked for me and I'd like to know if it works for anyone else :


I suffered with input lag issue on this TV for quite a while, looked through all the forums for solutions and all that but I finally figured out a way to remove all the input lag. I can't notice any at all and I play a lot of first person shooters. I have no idea if any of these steps are redundant or not but I know this series of steps does remove all the input lag so that the frames look identical on my monitor as well as my tv in duplicate display mode.. Also I applied these settings to my xbox 360 display settings and really ripped up a few matches on the weekend much better than I've ever played

1. First, Set the input label to game ( PC may work also )

2. Go to Home->Setup->Picture and set the mode to Expert 1, turn basically everything off (noise reduction, 'super mpeg' blah blah etc) turn the backlight back up to 80 or 100 so it's not as dim, Ensure TruMotion and LED dimming is OFF

3. Exit that menu, and use the button on the remove at the top that says AV mode and set it to 'game' (this may be the redundant part but I think there is some inheritence regarding the stuff in expert 1 )

4. Now for the key to making it all work, Change the input to something else all together, then change it back to the Game Input you want, it's almost like you have to switch inputs for the changes on processing to really get applied.


I wasted many hours playing with settings but not changing inputs back and forth so I wasn't 'really' seeing the changes and assumed it wasn't working, Lame! Anyway post back if it works for you.


A little extra : Regarding the 3d on the TV you can really reduce ghosting quite a bit by setting the sharpness value to around 34. Also by using the RealD polarized 3d glasses from the theatre, they seem to work alot better than the ones you get from LG for ghosting reduction

From my experience step 1 is not important. A label is just a label and has nothing to do with lag. Step 2 is also not helpful because when you switch the AV mode to Game in step 3, it also changes the Picture preset to Game, not Expert 1, thus those settings are irrelevant. Step 3 is vitally important, and switching via the AV setting on the remote may be significant. As for step 4 you might be right, but I've never needed to do that personally (although it couldn't hurt).

I recently hooked up my secondary PC to the TV first via an analog VGA cable, and then via HDMI. I found that without enabling game mode there was noticeable lag just with the mouse cursor. Interestingly after I enabled Game mode with the VGA cable there was still some lag - less but not gone. When I switched to the HDMI cable and enabled Game mode the lag was so small I couldn't detect any. In fact I ran a screen lag program in mirror mode and took a picture with my iPhone 4S. The difference was less than a millisecond (there appears to be a slight difference in the tenth of a millisecond column). That's many times below the human threshold of detection, so I have no doubt that when connected digitally, Game mode eliminates all lag. Perhaps more interesting is the remaining lag when using an analog VGA cable - even when game mode was used. This would tell me to avoid using analog cables when connecting a gaming console if possible.
post #7789 of 8097
I know for a fact that the input labels definitely have an impact, when switching from any other input label to PC the screen goes blank and refreshes and lowers mouse lag significantly however it's still there unless the aforementioned steps are taken. As I said, it may be redundant to go to expert 1 and then game but they were the steps I took and I assumed there was some inheritance going on as many of the options available in expert are not available in game mode; we would have to assume that if there was not inheritance they would be defaulted to off (which may be the case)

Perhaps my sensitivity to the input lag is greater than other peoples, I'm using an HDMI cable and on the PC running side by side without doing the input switching trick after switching to game mode I could literaly with my own eyes see one monitor do things long before the other I guess it's not all very scientific, especially because we may be running different versions of the firmware but I just wanted to share the steps that I know worked for me 100% and actually make gaming with a mouse/keyboard perfect on the tv
post #7790 of 8097
I downloaded the latest software, 4.03.02, and wanted to know what, if any, differences there are from the prior one? Anyone note any improvements or new features? TIA
post #7791 of 8097
I can confirm that just switching to game mode did not work for me. Lag was HORRIBLE. I tried the solution above and I can't believe it but it actually worked. I just played 1 game of call of duty modern warfare 3 online and it seems to be fixed. Thank you so much for this info.
post #7792 of 8097
Hey guys I can't remember the code that allows you to tweak thx modes and I can't search from my tablet for some reason. Can someone post it for me please?
Thanks
Marc
post #7793 of 8097
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus71 View Post

Hey guys I can't remember the code that allows you to tweak thx modes and I can't search from my tablet for some reason. Can someone post it for me please?
Thanks
Marc

That would be 8741 from the TV remote.
post #7794 of 8097
Just wanted to say the that DLNA software on the newest firmware has not really improved. I had a few days of perfect use out of it, but now it's back to it's old ways. Crashing and skipping ahead randomly. Back to using the PS3 for DLNA.
post #7795 of 8097
Thanks harpo
post #7796 of 8097
I hope someone can answer these two questions for me...

Is this version of LG better than the Newer versions? I hear so many issues with their picture.

What is a good price for the 55" version?

Thanks!
post #7797 of 8097
Hi, it looks like my 55LW5600 dies after 6 month. After I turn it on with sensor On button, it changes colors from red to white but TV does not show anything. I opened service request with LG, but is there anything I can do resetting the software? any combinations of buttons to do hard reset?

Thank you
post #7798 of 8097
After living with Plex pausing, and stuttering after every 10 minutes (with larger files), and trying various other DLNA servers - PS3 Server, Servio, PlayOn, I tried out Mezzmo about a month ago, and haven't looked back. It just works.
No drop offs (so far), surround sound works well (if it's part of the original file). I've been happy.
My DLNA equipped LG DVD player works well with it as well.

My setup - wired LAN from my PC to TV.

Mezzmo is not free. But they have a 30 day trial, and special offers every so often. Try it out.
post #7799 of 8097
i'm using belkin sharemax n300 $21.99 router flashed with tomato. enabled NAS and DLNA. plugged in a 500gb usb hard drive with all my movies and music. tv is linked on wireless N at 163mbps and everything streams perfect. even 1080p mkv with DD AC3.
post #7800 of 8097
Hey guys im having an issue where my tv will turn back on after turning it off. It usually happens within 15 seconds. This has only happened a couple of times and has started happening ever since I got an onkyo receiver (tx-nr609). The TV turns off even if the receiver is off so I don't think the receiver is doing anything. The receiver is setup with ARC through the TV and that HDMI protocol that lets me control my receiver with my tv remote.
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