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Official Panasonic 2011 TC-PxxST30 Thread [No Price Talk] - Page 141

post #4201 of 8439
You could also try this on the set:

http://vimeo.com/26189718

I forget where I got that link from, unfortunately. However it is supposedly set up to elicit FBr.
post #4202 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibilance View Post

You could also try this on the set:

http://vimeo.com/26189718

I forget where I got that link from, unfortunately. However it is supposedly set up to elicit FBr.

how exactly can we use this website to check for fluctuating brighness issue? call me stupid but i cant use the tv as a computer when its plugged into the internet. i cant just type in a website and also that website doesnt give instructions on what to do.
post #4203 of 8439
If you have a Vimeo account, you can download a MP4 version of that video.
There's a link for that towards the right, just south of the video and to the side.

You should then be able to play the video on your TV with either a SD card or an usb stick.

Hope that is of some use. I apologize for not making that clearer.
post #4204 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiTaLdAzE View Post

O.K.--so I did a little searching and found "2011 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread". Google directed me to the HighDef Junkies site where there was a zipped file download called 'Break In Images". It is a series of colored screens that run as a slide show. I assume it is in 16:9 aspect ratio as I had black bars on my monitor which is 16:10 when I ran it. So, is this the correct program, and is the idea to run this only (i.e. no other content being viewed) for the first 100 hours at least? I read that this is more for the purpose of optimizing eventual calibration results--not to minimize burn in or IR.
I want to get through the break in phase as quickly as possible. I live in Canada, but bought the set in the U.S., and so must get service done in the U.S. I am making a trip to a town near an authorized service center in the U.S. later this month, and would like to test the set for Fbr issues right away so that if service is needed I can get that service center to order an Aboard and thereby get the set fixed during my trip.
So my idea is to run the break in images continuously for 100 hours (is this safe to do?), and then run some content that will best test for Fbr. Should Fbr issues (if the set has any) show up right away if the correct content is viewed? I think two movies I read were good for this were 'Social Network', and the newest Harry Potter flick (Deathly Hollows?).

So many questions. I'll tackle the ones I can. About the slides, I believe those are correct. If they are red/blue/green/grey in various shades then yes those are the correct slides. And from what I read yes you are supposed to just run it 100 hours straight. But if you turn it off at night it shouldn't hurt. Just has to be only those images an no other content the first 100 hours. Plasma can get hot so I can understand giving the TV a break. And they are just for using D-nice's settings later.

Personally myself? I was thinking about it but I just said meh forget it. And honestly? This TV is amazingly impressive just out of the box. I am pleased and I just don't see how it could get any better than it already is. But I'm no videophile. I still appreciate a great picture, and the sharpness, colors, and the way the images can pop off the screen is good enough for me.

About the fluctuating brightness. I think I've kinda noticed it even though I did the internet patch right away. So I'll have to call a tech, but it is really hard to notice unless you are really looking for it. So I can understand how some people might not even notice it til many days after they first get their TV.
post #4205 of 8439
Asked this question awhile back, but no response. Can anyone recommend a good wall mount for the 60st30? Don't need anything fancy. If anything, maybe just the ability to tilt down slightly, but even that's not necessary. Thanks.
post #4206 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by jephdood View Post

Asked this question awhile back, but no response. Can anyone recommend a good wall mount for the 60st30? Don't need anything fancy. If anything, maybe just the ability to tilt down slightly, but even that's not necessary. Thanks.

Check monoprice.com. There are different ones to choose from and I have read on this forum that they are pretty good and relatively inexpensive. I'm actually looking for a mount as well for my 65st30.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 as an example.
post #4207 of 8439
I just purchased a 42st30 and have a question about it that maybe someone can answer for me.I love the picture quality on this set.The Hd is very good and the Sd is also very good.The question I have is that I will be watching this in a room that does have some light at night and average lighting in the daytime.I'm keeping all the levels dim until it has some hours on it but after a couple hundred hours will it be safe to bring up the brightness and contrast up or will I have to worry about image retension for quite a while.
I hope this doesn't sound stupid but will this set be somewhat close to the brightness of an led when it is broken in?
post #4208 of 8439
To those like me who use Cinema mode for almost all inputs, once you set the Cinema preset, it does carry over to all inputs. From what I see of being hooked up directly to the cable outlet, PS3, and 360, these are what I use...

Cinema:

Brightness: 55-57
Black Level: Light (Dark works the same, but either the brightness or the source device settings will have to be changed dramatically. Light is just more source device friendly IMHO, and keeps it around the 50's.)
HDMI: Nonstandard



Cable jack (I don't use a cable box): Can't touch settings obviously, but the brightness at 55-57 was perfect from my local HD channel testing, just like the PS3 and 360 with these settings.

PS3: HDMI Full Range (Limited will make Brightness have to be around 26 unless you set the TV Black Level to Dark, where 55-57 will be perfect again, but setting it to Dark will affect the other inputs.) People think the PS3 HAS to be on Limited when they don't realize that setting the PS3 to Limited with the TV black level set to Dark, is essentially the same thing as setting it to Full with the TV black level set to Light.

360: HDMI Expanded (Intermediate and Standard will make Brightness have to be lower than 55)

Computer: My desktop seems to have an internal HDMI Limited range setting I can't touch, so my brightness goes down to 26 with Black level Light, which is why I have the computer HDMI input being the only one in Custom Mode with D-Nice settings with Black level Dark, and Brightness at 55. Using the same images for calibrating brightness, the images become identical to the 360 and PS3 with these settings.

http://imageshack.us/f/82/75285378fbutmplsgreysca.jpg/

http://i55.tinypic.com/2h6yrd5.png

^These are two of the images I use to calibrate brightness. I save them on all my devices. The 2nd image, the background around the squares is 0 black, FYI. I personally set my brightness low enough to where the first square just starts to have dither, or even one or two notches lower since 1 out of the 255 isn't gonna be discernable to most of us anyway.

Brightness setting is gonna be very dependent on source devices. I find the PS3 Full, 360 Expanded, and my Computer's non-adjustable settings (though it has to be with Dark Black level) to be near similar, so the brightness doesn't have to be adjusted at 55-57. 0-255 greyscale will be pretty much the same at Brightness 55-57 at the point 0 black becomes actually as black as it can be without crushing anything else.

People may not realize this, but hitting the 3D button will not carry over any of your settings made in 2D mode, so you have to do your settings for 3D mode too. Again, Cinema in 3D carries over to other inputs. Custom doesn't and has to be adjusted by input.

Also from testing, only Cinema and Custom will display the full range. The other presets crush either the low end or the high end, no matter what I do. I've tested them for a long time, and it seems that they all innately have CATS on because depending on the image used, the brightness fluctuates quite heavily. Dither looks HILARIOUS on the Standard preset if you use an all black image and adjust the brightness slowly. You will get some crazy light shows of dither on certain Brightness notches. Honestly, I wouldn't bother with anything but Cinema or Custom. Vivid has a cool trick in that it shuts off the display if it senses an all black image. It's very quick too. Can't find how it does it with any other preset.

Those who THINK they need Game Mode, they don't. Custom/Cinema with the extra options off has pretty much the same input lag as Game Mode. Game Mode crushes blacks to hell, and looks downright terrible in every way any ways.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Teremei View Post

I'm seriously thinking about getting either the 60st30 or 65st30. See I have the Samsung HL67A750a or something like that. Which IS 3D compatible but only with blurays and I have an expensive $500 bluray player that is INSANELY slow that I absolutely hate.

Anyway now seems like a great time bc the 60 inch is (oh yeah I won't mention price) let's just say the 60 inch is at a very good price for the size. The 65 inch is a whole $1000 more expensive but size REALLY is important to me. I mean I'm already downgrading from 67 inches DLP to the 65.

I just want to hear from people who might have owned my same TV in the past or just know alot about it. I'm going to go see this TV in person but how much better are my blurays going to look on this baby compared to what I have?

Previously owned the HL67A750 LED DLP. Loved it. You will love the 65ST30 even more. It is a clear and worthy upgrade. You won't miss the 2" when you see the upgrade in PQ.
post #4209 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by jephdood View Post
Asked this question awhile back, but no response. Can anyone recommend a good wall mount for the 60st30? Don't need anything fancy. If anything, maybe just the ability to tilt down slightly, but even that's not necessary. Thanks.
I've JUST received a 60ST30 from Amazon and am still in the process of installing in new basement room. I'll review the TV shortly, as I've been reading this forum post for a long time - and finally decided on the ST30 over the Samsung D7000.
One note - I still have a Panny TH-42PX60U upstairs - I threw Avatar 2D onto the ST30 last night, with the protective film still on....and the picture was beautiful. No remorse so far. Now to get it ready for the NFL opener!

I used a Peerless SF670 (Amazon again) - and it should work just fine, but one thing that I didn't like about this mount is that the screws that anchor the bracket arms to the TV are located in long slots if you center the arms correctly - the arms have small slots at the top and larger slots in the middle and bottom. Due to the positioning of the TV threaded sockets, the screws attach in the larger slots and not the smaller ones. After attaching to the TV, I don't think that the TV will slide down, but I'd feel a lot better if there was less room to travel.

My 42 inch plasma never slipped and I used a peerless in that setup too.

Good luck!
post #4210 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by clanolear View Post
I've JUST received a 60ST30 from Amazon and am still in the process of installing in new basement room. I'll review the TV shortly, as I've been reading this forum post for a long time - and finally decided on the ST30 over the Samsung D7000.
One note - I still have a Panny TH-42PX60U upstairs - I threw Avatar 2D onto the ST30 last night, with the protective film still on....and the picture was beautiful. No remorse so far. Now to get it ready for the NFL opener!

I used a Peerless SF670 (Amazon again) - and it should work just fine, but one thing that I didn't like about this mount is that the screws that anchor the bracket arms to the TV are located in long slots if you center the arms correctly - the arms have small slots at the top and larger slots in the middle and bottom. Due to the positioning of the TV threaded sockets, the screws attach in the larger slots and not the smaller ones. After attaching to the TV, I don't think that the TV will slide down, but I'd feel a lot better if there was less room to travel.

My 42 inch plasma never slipped and I used a peerless in that setup too.

Good luck!
If you don't mind me asking, what is the build date for the TV you just received? I will likely be ordering one from amazon within a week or so and I am curious what build dates they are shipping currently.
post #4211 of 8439
Finished Break in slides on my 60St30. Did the nice settings on custom and tweaked cinema by eye and they both look outstanding. 3D starter kit and blu-ray player coming today. Very happy with my purchase.
post #4212 of 8439
With regard to RGB Full or Limited on the PS3, here is some good reading material: RGB Full Range: Limited or Full? and Calibration Experts - Please help! (RGB Full vs Limited on PS3 and Display)
post #4213 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by tfoltz View Post

High brightness on my set creates some funky issues and excessive dithering (I use 55, which is great). How did you come to use 60? I'll increase the brightness tonight on a blu-ray and see if the line appears.

Were you able to test the limits of your brightness control?
post #4214 of 8439
I am really looking at picking up one of these in the 55" size to replace my aging/dying mitsu dlp.

I have just one concern and that is the reflective screen. This TV is going in my family room which does have a fair amount of sunlight from 2 large windows on a wall perpendicular to the TV. There are no lights or lamps in front of the TV. I do have tint on the upper portions of the windows to help with the light at sunset as they are west facing.

So will this TV give me good performance in this fairly bright room?

Thanks,
post #4215 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerbyron View Post

If you don't mind me asking, what is the build date for the TV you just received? I will likely be ordering one from amazon within a week or so and I am curious what build dates they are shipping currently.

Had my daughter check for me while at work.

MFG Date is 5/20/2011 - just ordered and receive from Amazon within last week.
post #4216 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcoe View Post

I am really looking at picking up one of these in the 55" size to replace my aging/dying mitsu dlp.

I have just one concern and that is the reflective screen. This TV is going in my family room which does have a fair amount of sunlight from 2 large windows on a wall perpendicular to the TV. There are no lights or lamps in front of the TV. I do have tint on the upper portions of the windows to help with the light at sunset as they are west facing.

So will this TV give me good performance in this fairly bright room?

Thanks,

It will indeed. The room as you describe it should not have a significant impact on screen reflections, especially since you don't have any lights directly facing the TV.
post #4217 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by clanolear View Post

Had my daughter check for me while at work.

MFG Date is 5/20/2011 - just ordered and receive from Amazon within last week.

Thanks for checking. Sound like it will be a while before August builds will be shipping. At least the FB fix is free. Can't wait to get mine ordered and here!
post #4218 of 8439
Hello All,

So with a $1200-1500 budget, I was originally looking at 55-60' LED televisions, particularly a 60' Sharp Edge-Lit LED (60LE633U). But, with all the issues with black levels/backlighting, motion blur, etc...I turned towards Plasmas. I've never had one before, but have always heard great things, more specifically about Panasonics.

The P55-ST30 is right in my budget range, and with the excellent price on Amazon and a free pair of glasses, I'm just about ready to pull the trigger. Of course the FBr issue worries me, so if I receive a pre-August build from Amazon, am I guaranteed to encounter this issue? If so, I will deal directly with Panasonic, as opposed to Amazon, correct? How long, if needed will the fix if necessary take to implement? Just worried if it takes more than 30 days, I lose out on Amazon's return window.

I'm really excited about this set, and pretty picky about black levels, and detest motion blur in sports. From what I've read, this television would destroy an Edge-Lit LED in those arenas, just a little apprehensive when reading about the issues here. Any reassuring would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
post #4219 of 8439
I have had my 60ST30 for about a week now. My observation is this; In vivid mode the picture looked fantastic right out of the box. I didn't go through any slides or break-in routines. As others has mentioned, the set in standard mode does seem way to dark with the contrast and brightness set at 50. I followed a lot of the tweaks mentioned in this thread. I'll probably just watch everything in vivid mode with the contrast set at 80. I am trying not to let any shows with black bars on the side or top be on for a couple weeks. Overall great set!
post #4220 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nekro View Post

Hello All,

So with a $1200-1500 budget, I was originally looking at 55-60' LED televisions, particularly a 60' Sharp Edge-Lit LED (60LE633U). But, with all the issues with black levels/backlighting, motion blur, etc...I turned towards Plasmas. I've never had one before, but have always heard great things, more specifically about Panasonics.

The P55-ST30 is right in my budget range, and with the excellent price on Amazon and a free pair of glasses, I'm just about ready to pull the trigger. Of course the FBr issue worries me, so if I receive a pre-August build from Amazon, am I guaranteed to encounter this issue? If so, I will deal directly with Panasonic, as opposed to Amazon, correct? How long, if needed will the fix if necessary take to implement? Just worried if it takes more than 30 days, I lose out on Amazon's return window.

I'm really excited about this set, and pretty picky about black levels, and detest motion blur in sports. From what I've read, this television would destroy an Edge-Lit LED in those arenas, just a little apprehensive when reading about the issues here. Any reassuring would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

For 1600 you can get a 60 inch. Bigger is always better my friend
post #4221 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit85 View Post

For 1600 you can get a 60 inch. Bigger is always better my friend

Not always. IMO for blurays bigger is better. For HD gaming like PS3, I prefer smaller or mid sized TVs. Which is why I'm happy with my 50, just right for PS3 games, and still a great size for movies considering how close I sit to the TV.
post #4222 of 8439
For those on the fence...not everyone is experiencing FBr. My 50" is perfect.
post #4223 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit85 View Post

For 1600 you can get a 60 inch. Bigger is always better my friend

True, but I'm having a hard time justifying the $340 difference between the 55 & the 60 on Amazon. I'm moving from a 5 year old 46' Samsung LCD, so the 55 will still be a nice upgrade.
post #4224 of 8439
The larger size is worth the money. You will wish you bought the larger size in the near future.
post #4225 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nekro View Post

True, but I'm having a hard time justifying the $340 difference between the 55 & the 60 on Amazon. I'm moving from a 5 year old 46' Samsung LCD, so the 55 will still be a nice upgrade.

I came from a 40" Samsung LCD and the 55" was a huge upgrade. I do find myself getting a little upset when I see the 60" inch is about the same price now that I paid for my 55" but I work through it. I kind of wish I would have waited but I knew when I bought mine not long after they came out that the prices would drop a few months later. I just have to live with it. The 55 is a nice size because I only sit 7 feet from it but I would get the 60" if I was buying one now.
post #4226 of 8439
I bought the 50" so I could justify getting the 60+ in a couple years. Haha.
post #4227 of 8439
Hey guys, if someone can save my sanity it'd be greatly appreciated! I have a week old 55st30, which I've been running slides on along with intermittent viewing here and there. The picture I have with some of the settings I've found looks great to me, but I'm far from any expert. In the interest of trying to get the best picture out of this thing I bought the Disney WOW optimization bluray.
Here's the problem:

Using my ps3 as the blu-ray player I can't get the contrast settings to show any of the images in what is supposed to be ideal white. I played with contrast from 0-100 and messed with the brightness in every combination as well, and there's no star showing up, just pure white just like the non-visible stars. Looking through the manual it says this is "clipping" and tends to happen on aging systems that may be getting worn out. So it got me worried that possibly my tv has a problem?

I love my picture, I'm just concerned that I'm missing something better because of a defect that doesn't allow me to adjust this properly. I also tried the optimizer that comes on the Life blu-ray disk and I have the same contrast issues. Is it my TV or is there some other settings I should be looking at?

thanks!
post #4228 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcoe View Post

I am really looking at picking up one of these in the 55" size to replace my aging/dying mitsu dlp.

I have just one concern and that is the reflective screen. This TV is going in my family room which does have a fair amount of sunlight from 2 large windows on a wall perpendicular to the TV. There are no lights or lamps in front of the TV. I do have tint on the upper portions of the windows to help with the light at sunset as they are west facing.

So will this TV give me good performance in this fairly bright room?

Thanks,

I have the exact same configuration (55ST) and large west-facing windows and French doors to the right of the TV. And I don't have any issues. Of course, the picture does look better at night when there is no ambient light falling on it, but I can still watch TV during the peak light hours with no problems.

I'm using D-Nice's settings, FYI...
post #4229 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by trickhog View Post

I have the exact same configuration (55ST) and large west-facing windows and French doors to the right of the TV. And I don't have any issues. Of course, the picture does look better at night when there is no ambient light falling on it, but I can still watch TV during the peak light hours with no problems.

I'm using D-Nice's settings, FYI...


Thanks. I think I will get one from Amazon, with their return policy if I find it to be too reflective I can always return it and go a different route.
post #4230 of 8439
Do you guys think springing for the Square Trade Warranty is worth it on this set?

Also, just noticed the priced jumped on Amazon $27, .
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