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Official Panasonic 2011 TC-PxxST30 Thread [No Price Talk] - Page 195

post #5821 of 8439
I got my 60ST30 up and running yesterday and the PQ is incredible. The black level, shadow detail, etc are incredible and it's not even calibrated yet. It has a July build date and zero issues. No buzzing or light fluctuation, etc. I "converted" to plasma a couple of years ago with a 42G10 for the bedroom, then a 42G25 for the game room. The 60ST30 is in the living room and replaces an almost 9 year old Sony 60XBR800 (that still works fine actually). All of the Panasonics have been flawless so far and I'm extremely happy with the new one.
post #5822 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by moshock View Post

Option 1) It's 4 days.. deal with it...

You are welcome to explain this to the missus. I will be racing for the Canuckian border while you do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by moshock View Post

Option 2) Skip the break-in, and just start watching it... You do realize this is what 99% of people do, right?... No exaggeration.

I'd like to get the best, most accurate picture out of the set as possible. However, if the burn-in method means getting a 99% perfect picture and just firing it up and watching stuff with the brightness and contrast a little low for the first couple of weeks will gain me a 95% perfect picture, I think I can accept the trade-off.
post #5823 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkBelig View Post


Our 8-year-old Sony RPTV blew its convergence ICs last Tues. - day after all the killer Cyber Monday deals, naturally - and she rejected my offer to get a 73" Mitsubishi DLP which would've been delivered Friday because it'd be too big and she didn't want a big set anymore.

If you are fairly handy with a soldering iron, you can probably replace those convergence IC's yourself for around $50 or less.
If nothing else, your replacing the convergence IC's besides it getting your existing set back in working order again for a very reasonable cost. It also would also give you more time to research replacement sets for it, as well as give you some more time to wait for any possible better sale prices on them.

If you are interested in giving it a shot at replacing the convergence IC's yourself, there are threads on this forum related to doing that as a DIY, and also a detailed thread at the home theater shack forum as well.
post #5824 of 8439
Hi everyone.

Picked up a 55ST30 on Friday in Ontario Canada. Serial number was xx1290xxxxxx built in October 2011. Great!

I let the TV settle at home overnight before running D-Nice's settings and applying the slideshow process for 100 hours.

I immediately noticed what appears to be a blob/blotch on the top right corner and less on bottom left corner of the TV on the green slide, then noticed it on the red and less on the blue slides. I couldn't really see it on the gradient slides.

Should I let the slide process run for the 100 hours and then see if these blob/blotch disappear? Or should I just return the TV?

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.
post #5825 of 8439
Quote:


I immediately noticed what appears to be a blob/blotch on the top right corner and less on bottom left corner of the TV on the green slide, then noticed it on the red and less on the blue slides. I couldn't really see it on the gradient slides.

Should I let the slide process run for the 100 hours and then see if these blob/blotch disappear? Or should I just return the TV?

Took delivery of a 60" ST30 last Wed. No problems in normal viewing, but a COUPLE of the gray slides show a faint green blob just right of center screen.

We've had 3 sets of eyes "scouring" the screen during normal programming (3rd plasma: I always mix slides with Mostly Full Screen content), including Hockey Games & the many white-background (or even "B&W") commercials that are prevalent now, and we CANNOT see any hint of the blob outside of those specific gray slides.

I would "age" the panel as quickly as possible, while keeping an eye on the slides you see the problem on - AND would also view some light-background normal content (Zoom to full 16:9 if it makes you feel better) to determine whether or not the flaw is visible.

But if it IS visible, or if it gets worse on your slides, would return the set...

(Are the blobs of any specific Color? Are they more - or less - visible from specific angles?)
post #5826 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by mde8965 View Post

I bought my 50ST30 for my office in late August. One night in early October while watching a college football game, the TV shutdown and I got the 7 blinks of death. Tried everything but nothing brought it back to life.

Talked to the Concierge and it was laughable what they had me do to test it. Make sure its plugged in, change the wall outlet etc. But long story short, they put me in contact with a local TV repair shop here in St. Peteresburg. They were great. However, the SC board was on backorder and it took 3 weeks to get here.

Anyway they came out and replaced one board. That didn't help, then the SC Board, that didnt help, then another board and that finally did the trick. The TV is finally up and running again as of last week.

They told me as they were fixing it that there is a possibility that I may run into the issue again and that if I plan to keep the TV for any length of time to buy an extended warranty. They said that they have not redesigned the boards. And that they have had a lot of repairs with both Panasonic and Samsung plasmas in the last few months.

I just don't know about the warranty though. I kinds feel like lightning is less likely to strike twice, but maybe I am wrong. They said that should these boards go out again outside of warranty that the parts and repair cost would make the TV pretty much a disposable item. Its an April 2011 build. No other problems with the set. Its gorgeous. I also have a 42ST30 in the bedroom that I have had for 3 months. No issues there.

Just thought I would share.

Thanks for sharing this. Have you had any problems since the set was repaired?

Unfortunately this happened to me also, but it happened within an hour of setting up so I was able to return it within my 30 day window (BB). Thinking about an extended warranty now but not sure. For those that used BB, did you get their extended warranty?

For those that remember unpacking this, did the top of your unit have 1 long piece of styrofoam, or was it two pieces? Mine had 2 pieces, one on each end. I thought that was strange. Each piece had jagged edges toward the middle which makes me believe it was originally one piece. It took awhile to get the pieces to stay in place when I repacked it back up.

Anyway, it just seemed strange to me. I'm wondering if my unit was actually a return at one time.
post #5827 of 8439
Quote:


How bad is it if you don't run the Patented D-Nice Break-In Process?

3rd plasma is breaking in (aging...) now: we mix slides with Mostly Full-Screen content (TV shows are nice for this, as most HD shows use the Entire Screen), avoiding letterbox bars AND "hard" logos / ticket streamers as much as possible.

Based on our older two sets, this process clearly does NO "harm" - whether or not it Helps as compared to simply turning the set on is harder to judge, but older sets (including daughter's Samsung picked up Jan 2011!) Recommended full-screen viewing for the first 100 hours or so.

Taking as Fact that Plasma pixels age relatively quickly during the first 100 - 200 hours of usage, it does seem prudent to try to get them all to age The Same - but personal decision is to be Careful, but Not Obsessive about the process....
post #5828 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by theweight View Post


Thanks for sharing this. Have you had any problems since the set was repaired?

Unfortunately this happened to me also, but it happened within an hour of setting up so I was able to return it within my 30 day window (BB). Thinking about an extended warranty now but not sure. For those that used BB, did you get their extended warranty?

For those that remember unpacking this, did the top of your unit have 1 long piece of styrofoam, or was it two pieces? Mine had 2 pieces, one on each end. I thought that was strange. Each piece had jagged edges toward the middle which makes me believe it was originally one piece. It took awhile to get the pieces to stay in place when I repacked it back up.

Anyway, it just seemed strange to me. I'm wondering if my unit was actually a return at one time.

Had an 85u that blinked out on me 3 months after warranty...i would get one especially with a panny where its not that uncommon to get the blinking lights of death
post #5829 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dierkdr View Post

Took delivery of a 60" ST30 last Wed. No problems in normal viewing, but a COUPLE of the gray slides show a faint green blob just right of center screen.

We've had 3 sets of eyes "scouring" the screen during normal programming (3rd plasma: I always mix slides with Mostly Full Screen content), including Hockey Games & the many white-background (or even "B&W") commercials that are prevalent now, and we CANNOT see any hint of the blob outside of those specific gray slides.

I would "age" the panel as quickly as possible, while keeping an eye on the slides you see the problem on - AND would also view some light-background normal content (Zoom to full 16:9 if it makes you feel better) to determine whether or not the flaw is visible.

But if it IS visible, or if it gets worse on your slides, would return the set...

(Are the blobs of any specific Color? Are they more - or less - visible from specific angles?)

Thanks for the response.

The blobs are specific to the colour of the RGB slide. If green is on then I see green. If red, I see red. I guess it might be a could sign that I see no blobs or colour blobs on the gradient slides?

I'll keep running the slide process for the full 100 hours and then try viewing some white back ground scenes to see if I notice anything.

Cheers!
post #5830 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnla View Post

If you are fairly handy with a soldering iron, you can probably replace those convergence IC's yourself for around $50 or less.
If nothing else, your replacing the convergence IC's besides it getting your existing set back in working order again for a very reasonable cost. It also would also give you more time to research replacement sets for it, as well as give you some more time to wait for any possible better sale prices on them.

That's the problem; my solder fu is non-existent. I build my own PCs, but there's no soldering involved and this isn't the time to start. I have a couple of friends who have replaced theirs, but aren't helpful on this set. One said he'd take a crack at it if I got the parts and pulled the board and brought it to him, but if I could do the first part, I'd be able to do the rest. Faced with spending $200-$300 to have a repairman come to her place, we've decided to bite the bullet and upgrade. I appreciate the suggestion, but it becomes moot in the first sentence.

The other problem is that we need to buy from a place with delivery and haul-away of the old set because it weighs 175# and is on the 2nd floor. She won't let me call some burly friends over to drop it at the curb, so Costco and Amazon (with their great prices) are out, too. It's all a bother.

Back to the topic: If we were to run slides and full-screen programming constantly in-between normal shows, that would be sufficient? Thanks. Still starting to lean back towards LCD.
post #5831 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norkusa View Post

Are plasmas supposed to have a "sparkle" effect when you look at them up close? The ST30 is the first plasma I've owned and I noticed if I stand about 2 feet away from the panel, the pixels look like they are sparkling. It really stands out when the picture is all black but I can still see it somewhat during regular viewing. Is this a defect or are plasmas supposed to do this? It looks very similar to this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ST2U4g4j6PU

I see this on my ST30 too. I suspect it's normal. I only see it with very dark content, and it's completely invisible from more than 2 feet away, so I don't think it's something to be concerned about.
post #5832 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by phronk View Post

I see this on my ST30 too. I suspect it's normal. I only see it with very dark content, and it's completely invisible from more than 2 feet away, so I don't think it's something to be concerned about.

its called DITHERING and is totally normal for plasma as long as its not visiable from viewing distance. they all do it.
post #5833 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkBelig View Post

How bad is it if you don't run the Patented D-Nice Break-In Process?

There's so much confusion on here about the break-in slides. It's not bad at all if you skip them. The point of the break-in slides is to age your panel in exactly the way that D-Nice's panel was aged before he calibrated it, so that D-Nice's calibration recommendations work as well as possible for your TV so that you can have something approaching, though not matching (due to individual set variations), a professional calibration. If you don't plan on using D-Nice's calibration recommendations, you don't need the slides.

If you don't run the slides, though, you're well advised to keep the setting dialed down (no vivid mode) and avoid fixed content like black bars and station logos during the first hundred or so hours.

Finally, can you use D-Nice's settings without running the slides? Sure you can. The results will be a little different than they would be if you ran the slides, but likely still better than what comes out of the box (although the cinema mode settings seem to be decent).
post #5834 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post


its called dithering and is totally normal for plasma as long as its not visiable from viewing distance. They all do it.

+ 1
post #5835 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanS View Post


Since I'm asking newbie questions, I'll keep going:

Is 2.1 the identical signal as 2.0? I.e., is the receiver just taking the 2.0 stereo input signal, and sending it through a low-pass filter before outputting it? Or are movies actually mastered with their own low-frequency track? If so, does that mean that the ST30 actually passes 3 channels (2.1) over the digital optical out?

Thanks again.

The ST30 passes 2 channels (stereo) only via it's optical output. There's no way around it. It is stated in your owners manual. If you use optical from your STB to your receiver you will have a 5.1 system, assuming you have a subwoofer. If you also run optical from your BD player to your receiver, it will also be 5.1. If your BD player and AV are HDMI ARC capable or your player uses a separate HDMI port for audio, then you can support a 7.1 system with all BD sound tracks and audio types available to you. The audio section of this forum would be a good place to take this discussion any deeper. I hope this has helped so far. BTW you would also need your receiver to cross over the 20hz - 100hz low subwoofer frequencies. Your ST30 won't do it.
post #5836 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkBelig View Post

Back to the topic: If we were to run slides and full-screen programming constantly in-between normal shows, that would be sufficient? Thanks. Still starting to lean back towards LCD.

No, it's really not the same. Unless you do the procedure exactly the way it was written, the settings you would use afterwards aren't entirely accurate. Now, that being said, I started the slides on my 55" ST and couldn't deal with waiting it out. I used the DNice settings as a baseline and used spears and munsil on my own afterwards. I'll get the set professionally calibrated in a few months.

Now, beyond that, if you're still looking to go back to LCD and all of it's ununiformity issues and lack of viewing angle and lag for gaming and blah blah blah, over a set in the ST30 which is the best pound for pound tv you can buy? Go ahead, but many would say you are making a mistake unless you really kick it up a notch with some super high end LCD. Which, would cost significantly more money.
post #5837 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy View Post

In our area, since last year, the On-Demand 3D movies are in 1080p and they always run a couple of Pay per View movies in 1080p. To tell you the truth I don't keep my box set on "native" all of the time. Since 99% of my viewing is normal cable 1080i I just keep it that way. When the kids want to watch a O-D 3D movie, I switch to "native" and let it come in 1080p.

Our local Fox station is the only one that really paints up the News Desk faces. You can't see a line or pimple on their face. Just the opposite on the other stations.

As I mentioned in earlier posts, I have a 58VT25 in the FR that was actually calibrated by D-Nice. I have the ST30 tweaked ( lots of exercise running back and forth between rooms/lol) and I have to say, the ST30 does a damn good job. Not as much light output from the ST but equal to in a couple of other ways. So far I'm happy!

I sometimes use On Demand to catch up on shows I missed or watch an occassional free movie but of course those are never in 1080p. Didn't occur to me some On Demand 3D or Pay per View might be.

I agree about the ST30... I have a P60St30 and when I'm using Blu-ray or it's getting a good cable signal, I'm happy. Thanks for the info.
post #5838 of 8439
You don't have to run the slides, it is not a requirement for the TV to perform excellently.
post #5839 of 8439
Anyone else notice how ridiculous the cinema and DNice's settings look during a bright sunny day watching NFL football.


So drab, lifeless, dim, just hideous looking. I think plasmas get a bad reputation because more people care about the reference settings, and just leave them on those settings for TV viewing in the day time. So when friends come over during the day and watch sports, they all look at it and go "Holy crap Plasmas suck HUGE TIME!!!)


Last night watching the latest Potter flick, those settings look nice, but absolutely under no condition are they even 1% acceptable for afternoon football.


Now on to my question: Should 3:2 pulldown be set onto the "on" position or "auto". I've read some Panny's need this set to the "on" position for it to pass the test correctly.

Secondly, the 3:2 pulldown affects, 720p, 1080i/60, and 1080p/24, so since those are the only 3 resolutions my TV will ever see, 3:2 should always be activated anyway, so why not just set it to "on".
post #5840 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunkist View Post

You don't have to run the slides, it is not a requirement for the TV to perform excellently.

I don't see anyone reason why someone could not run the slides at all times minus mixing in some non 16:9 content for an hour or two in the evenings to watch programming - unless I am missing something here? Seems close enough to me and you can still enjoy the TV
post #5841 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike171979 View Post

Anyone else notice how ridiculous the cinema and DNice's settings look during a bright sunny day watching NFL football.


So drab, lifeless, dim, just hideous looking. I think plasmas get a bad reputation because more people care about the reference settings, and just leave them on those settings for TV viewing in the day time. So when friends come over during the day and watch sports, they all look at it and go "Holy crap Plasmas suck HUGE TIME!!!)


Last night watching the latest Potter flick, those settings look nice, but absolutely under no condition are they even 1% acceptable for afternoon football.


Now on to my question: Should 3:2 pulldown be set onto the "on" position or "auto". I've read some Panny's need this set to the "on" position for it to pass the test correctly.

Secondly, the 3:2 pulldown affects, 720p, 1080i/60, and 1080p/24, so since those are the only 3 resolutions my TV will ever see, 3:2 should always be activated anyway, so why not just set it to "on".

football looks great to me... it is far from hideous...


i do leave 3:2 pulldown to on all the time, seems not to affect other sources with it on.
post #5842 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

its called DITHERING and is totally normal for plasma as long as its not visiable from viewing distance. they all do it.

Thanks! I suspected this was normal behavior but just wanted to make sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by moshock View Post

Option 2) Skip the break-in, and just start watching it... You do realize this is what 99% of people do, right?... No exaggeration.

Yeah, that's what I did. I was planning to run the slides but as soon as my tv arrived, I was too excited and wanted to start watching on it right away. I'm very happy with how the picture looks but careful about not leaving it on one channel or movie for too long.

Has anyone ever done a side-by-side comparison of an ST30 with the 100 hour slide break-in and one without? I'm curious to see how different they'd look.
post #5843 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkBelig View Post

I'm investigating possibly getting one of these ST30/GT30 sets and have been reading around here and am freaking out over the prep time before you get to use the set to watch anything. The D-Nice process isn't going to sit too well with my girlfriend whose place this set would be....

ME: [i]"Hey, honey, listen...when we get this plasma set, in order to properly break it in, I'm going to have to run the set day and night for at least four days straight.

Our 36" Sony Dz board died I changed (2) MCZ3001DB chips
Still no go
Went though the whole thing with the wife and color slides
FINALLY got the OK
Went to pick it up today on the ride home
ME: Ummn I think we got a early build
HER: Whats that
ME: before August
HER: So
ME:We may have to get a new A board

I will not go into what she said. But she was driving and changed lanes and was ready to do a U-turn.
I told her I wasn't sure and wouldn't know for sure before we got it home
Luckly it was a Oct bulid
I never told my Son about the color slides After he help set it up
He brought out his XBOX
Red,Blue,Green,Gray its going to be a long week wish Me luck
post #5844 of 8439
Is there a reason to turn Pixel Orbiter off? I thought I remembered reading that it caused some sort of problem, but can't remember at all what it was (maybe something about scaling)
post #5845 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by spud42 View Post


Our 36" Sony Dz board died I changed (2) MCZ3001DB chips
Still no go
Went though the whole thing with the wife and color slides
FINALLY got the OK
Went to pick it up today on the ride home
ME: Ummn I think we got a early build
HER: Whats that
ME: before August
HER: So
ME:We may have to get a new A board

I will not go into what she said. But she was driving and changed lanes and was ready to do a U-turn.
I told her I wasn't sure and wouldn't know for sure before we got it home
Luckly it was a Oct bulid
I never told my Son about the color slides After he help set it up
He brought out his XBOX
Red,Blue,Green,Gray its going to be a long week wish Me luck

Wish these posts had " like" buttons....hahahahaha good luck bro
post #5846 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike171979 View Post

Anyone else notice how ridiculous the cinema and DNice's settings look during a bright sunny day watching NFL football.


So drab, lifeless, dim, just hideous looking. I think plasmas get a bad reputation because more people care about the reference settings, and just leave them on those settings for TV viewing in the day time. So when friends come over during the day and watch sports, they all look at it and go "Holy crap Plasmas suck HUGE TIME!!!)


Last night watching the latest Potter flick, those settings look nice, but absolutely under no condition are they even 1% acceptable for afternoon football.


Now on to my question: Should 3:2 pulldown be set onto the "on" position or "auto". I've read some Panny's need this set to the "on" position for it to pass the test correctly.

Secondly, the 3:2 pulldown affects, 720p, 1080i/60, and 1080p/24, so since those are the only 3 resolutions my TV will ever see, 3:2 should always be activated anyway, so why not just set it to "on".

So what are the killer 'afternoon football' settings?
post #5847 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanS View Post

So what are the killer 'afternoon football' settings?

Game Mode.
post #5848 of 8439
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike171979 View Post

Anyone else notice how ridiculous the cinema and DNice's settings look during a bright sunny day watching NFL football.


So drab, lifeless, dim, just hideous looking. I think plasmas get a bad reputation because more people care about the reference settings, and just leave them on those settings for TV viewing in the day time. So when friends come over during the day and watch sports, they all look at it and go "Holy crap Plasmas suck HUGE TIME!!!)


Last night watching the latest Potter flick, those settings look nice, but absolutely under no condition are they even 1% acceptable for afternoon football.


Now on to my question: Should 3:2 pulldown be set onto the "on" position or "auto". I've read some Panny's need this set to the "on" position for it to pass the test correctly.

Secondly, the 3:2 pulldown affects, 720p, 1080i/60, and 1080p/24, so since those are the only 3 resolutions my TV will ever see, 3:2 should always be activated anyway, so why not just set it to "on".

I also find d'nice's settings too dim for sports. I think it looks great for blu ray but when it comes to sports all the games look like their playing in overcast weather. So I tinkered around with the settings and decided to keep everything the same except change the "panel brightness" from low to mid.

Hope this helps!
post #5849 of 8439
Doorbell rang last night at 8:00. My wife and I were wondering who the heck would be at our door at that time on a Sunday night. Turns out to be the delivery company with our new Panny set! The driver obviously had no clue about the pre-August issues, so I scoured over the box until I could find the build date and sure enough...August 2011 build (ME-1270 I believe). I offered the guy a few gatorades in delight and proceeded to tear open the box down in the basement!

Slides have been running since last night, with Friday morning being my target time to set this bad boy up with D-Nice's settings.
post #5850 of 8439
just received my 2nd 60st30, returned the 1st because of the pink tint, this one is also a may build as the 1st was, dang it. will report back on the pink and green blob issue after i get it up and running.


edit- well it also has the pink and green issue maybe not as bad... for those who are looking for it put the panel brightness on low, as MID doesnt show it hardly at all but on low it is obvious.

if it doesnt get any worse i may keep it, i just dont know... i also heard that the 2012;s are going to be special, but i havent heard why, waiting for a reply on that.
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