The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix

Thanks for this. Would you happen to have links to where all the ingredients can be purchased online? The closest Home Depot is an hour away from where I live.

Everything except the Delta and Liquitex Paints are Home Depot items. The Delta Liquitex paints are found at Michael's Arts & Crafts Stores, or Online at Dick Blicks. http://www.dickblick.com/categories/acrylics/

BTW, Dick Blick has Retail stores in some cities. http://www.dickblick.com/stores/

pb:

been away for a LONG time.... saw this.

what happened to the gold? I've always pushed blue without it using the delta silver...

Don't rely on that damn Viscosity Cup! If you've read much at all of the prior advice and instructions, you'd note that repeatedly...and always it's stated to never use the viscosity tool to measure how thin the paint should be.

Instead. you start by adding approx 3o % water to the Mix volume and first judge viscosity (lack thereof actually) by noting how fast the mixed paint literally "pours off" the Squirrel Cage nixing tool. You did use one of those...right?

Then you strain the paint, and if it flows through the sock strainer (not a cone type) at at rate equal to the pour-in rate, your good to go, as per the videos linked to just below.....





In this next video, you see how the paint is pooling on top the Filter, making it necessary to pour much more slowly. That is exactly what you DO NOT want to have to do.



To reach the proper lack of viscosity, you might have to first strain, examine the flow-through rate, and if too slow as represented by the last video, rinse out the Flter, add another 2 oz. water, stir and try again. It's worth the effort to do so of course, because once you have achieved the correct thinness, the paint will exit the gun in a finer mist, and at a much more rapid rate.

Do you need to use Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish with v2.

a man named Dick Blick? Have you ever met him? Is he related to Dick Trickle?

I've read through all of the MaxMudd threads (through the different versions) and was hoping someone can give me some guidance or insight into building my media room. A little background. My wife and I are currently having our new house built and it has a dedicate home theater room. The dimensions of the room are 14.5' x 20'. I am trying to keep my projector and screen budget around the $2200 - $2500 range. I have already narrowed down which projector I am leaning towards, an Epson 8700UB. After reading through these posts I was thinking of making a 120" screen using MaxMudd LL painted directly on the puttied, smoothed, and painted wall.

Would the LL paint be the route I should go with in a dedicated media room with lighting controls and with the Epson 8700? Originally I was leaning towards purchasing a 120" Elite Screens EZ Frame screen, but after reading through these forums on the benefits of MaxMudd I am thinking I should go this route. Also, I was thinking of rolling the MaxMudd on vs spraying since I am a novice in the paint gun department. Would anyone recommend going against rolling on MaxMudd LL? I see that this is the only configuration where rolling was acceptable.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice. This is my first projector setup and want to make sure I can get the best picture possible within my budget.

Spraying is so affordable...easy.....convienient (it's a work site too) and provides the absolute best visual results. Experience is NOT required as we are here to instruct you on the simplicity of it all.

So many Noobs have "been there..done that" before and have accomplished great screen, why should you fear the Reaper?

Of course you can roll RS-MM LL....., but you could also Kiss Your Sister on New Years too. Both are going to be less than satisfactory experiences than you might otherwise aspire to.

Excellent analogy!! I'll go the spray route then once I get started on the project.

thinking about spraying one of the mixes on my da-lite fixed screen. how do you apply it for spray? how many coats? do you mix all 5 together or are the miniwax/water formulas a top coat?

Ok guys, I think I am ready to paint my screen! I purchased everything needed so now I just need to build my screen and paint away! Any last minute pointers?

Should I be looking at RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2 if I'm interested in a high gain DIY screen? I have an RS50 which is lumen challenged in a light controlled room.

So far the highest gain I've seen from a sample screen is the HP 2.4. This won't work for me, though, because my pj is ceiling mounted.

Thank you.

How would RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2 compare to behr silver screen with white opal pearlescent. Right now i have a planar pd7150 and looks good with that, but i got my hand on a sony vpl-hw15. I want to redo my wall. Reason I want to choose this paint is because it could be rolled. Had plenty of bad experiences with spraying, but I'm a master "roller." Do you think i should switch? I only used the projector at night. Where the screen is is a dark flat brown, and the side walls and ceiling is like an off white/beige color. Screen is 125" diagonal, viewing from 15 feet away, prjector on wall mount over my head.
Thanks

str8desifer,

It would almost be a silly/crazy comparison.

SS w/WOP represents a "Fix" for basic SS, not anything like a ideally suited application.

Among the biggest difference would be the total amount of reflective elements contained within the RS-MM LL v2 as compared to SS w/WOP. The former has approx 4x as much, in addition to Polyurethane.

Also, the Former has significantly greater gain, yet retains considerable contrast enhancing ability.

So Roll on, Brother. Your assured of getting significantly better results.

But I do suggest you re-prime the old surface back to White so you can avail yourself of the translucent properties of the RS-MM LL v2 and it's ability to use the White under laying surface to some extent to assure the 'whitest white' reproduction possible.

If you opt to instead apply the RS-MM LL v2 directly over the older, darker Gray SS/WOP,(....after a light "sweep sanding"...) you can expect to see even greater contrast enhancement, but some degree of a reduction of Gain. Nothing drastic, mind you....but it will be lessened somewhat.

With either undercoating, here's where your rolling skills will come into play. Apply the top coats as thinly as you can, building up the layers gradually until after any one last coating dries you see no imperfections. Then stop. If you apply the Top Coats thick enough to "Cover", the only part of the application that will have any effect on the image will be the Top Coat. The undercoat will lie hidden and totally passive.

Thanks MississippiMan, I already have the primer, just need to order some of those supplies. Can't wait to try it out. Thanks for your advice.

I painted my screen with the original retro version last year. Such an improvement with my Optoma HD65 over the SS and unpainted sintra. I do notice some sparklies on bright white scenes, though. Would the smaller mica in the V.2 mix help with this?

pb_maxxx, I think I noticed you mentioned in a separate thread favoring craft paint over house paint for mixes now? If so, how would you modify the Retro V.2 mix, if at all? Thinking about taking screen back out to garage for a resurfacing with the new mix. Thanks.

Edited to add:

Is this the same Delta pearl that has gone into hiding as mentioned in the Silver Fire V.2 thread?

8 oz Delta Pearl Finish #02601

Question, after painting Sintra, can I still bend it so I can get it into the basement or will that hurt the paint job? It will only require a little bend, not a drastic amount.

Another question, I currently have a Panny AX200 which has a good amount of lumens but I will be buying a new pj next year which probably won't have as much output. Can I go ahead and put on the LL paint and still get a good picture with the 200 or will it be too bright?

I'm guessing that with the MuddMaxx formulas, you are not custom tinting the paint at the paint counter. The tinting is done with the silver and pearl ingredients? I need the low to medium ambient light solution. Thanks!

Get yourself a clean empty, seal-able container (HD, Lowes and other hardware stores sell empty paint containers), pick up a paint stir attachment (squirrel cage) for a power drill while you are at it and measuring cups. Measure and pour the listed ingredients into the paint can and using the stirring attachment mix your ingredients thoroughly. Easy, peasy.

Apologies for the silly super noob questions, but I really have no idea what I'm doing: where is the 2.1 formula located? Did you edit the first post in this thread? Is there a 2.1 version for the LL formula?

Last time I did this I put down 2 coats of primer then two coats of high gloss. Then I put three coats of the Mudd formula. Is this still the same process? If so, what primer and what high gloss do I use?