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The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 6

post #151 of 652
Thread Starter 
dave1969;

thanx on the update with RSMLL and the 3010. gotta love those extra fL's to work with now i know exactly what to get/recommend for these ultra dark silver fire 8.0-12.0 screens. time sell this vivitek of mine and opt for a 3010.

but seriously. shoot me a pm and i'll recommend an easy non lamp black solution to your better blacks.
post #152 of 652
Looking for advice. Thanks in advance. Not sure if I should make a MxMd or a SF screen.
I'm from Canada and face problems with paint acquisition but that isn't going to stop me.
I'm considering replacing my dying Sanyo Z3 with the Epson 8350.
My theatre is in my basement with a white ceiling and light gray walls. It is a large room and painting it dark is not an option due to the WAF.
I gave up my Dalite screen years ago and never replaced it. We have been shooting against the gray wall since.
The distance is 11 feet pj to wall. I have space for a 98-100" screen.
I have found foamboard at a local art store. It's not Sintra but it does have a smooth, shiny surface which may be paper but I can't tell. It may be appropriate to use (?).

What do you suggest for the paint version of one or either cocktail? I will be using an older version Wagner power painter (atomizer 1600 PSI).

I am considering buying two fibreboards and trying both a MxMd and SF screen.

Also, when painting/dusting light coats, if I wait an hour between coats and do several per day, won't it cause problems with the sprayer tip drying or can I just leave it as is between coats. This may sound stupid but it did strike me as a possible issue.

I plan on mounting a 1x2 wood frame over 1/4 inch masonite to the wall. I may try snug fit the screen in the frame so I can swap them out if I want. Does this sound feasable? Or should fasten it to the masonite permanently with caulking as MM has so eloquently decribed.

Any help is appreciated. I'm sure I will have more questions as this project evolves.
Cheers,
post #153 of 652
Oh yeah, I can control all ambient light but we kind of like having some light on and watching, especially sports.
post #154 of 652
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

dave1969;

thanx on the update with RSMLL and the 3010. gotta love those extra fL's to work with now i know exactly what to get/recommend for these ultra dark silver fire 8.0-12.0 screens. time sell this vivitek of mine and opt for a 3010.

but seriously. shoot me a pm and i'll recommend an easy non lamp black solution to your better blacks.

pm sent. Thanks
post #155 of 652
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacampbell View Post

Looking for advice. Thanks in advance. Not sure if I should make a MxMd or a SF screen.
I'm from Canada and face problems with paint acquisition but that isn't going to stop me.
I'm considering replacing my dying Sanyo Z3 with the Epson 8350.
My theatre is in my basement with a white ceiling and light gray walls. It is a large room and painting it dark is not an option due to the WAF.
I gave up my Dalite screen years ago and never replaced it. We have been shooting against the gray wall since.
The distance is 11 feet pj to wall. I have space for a 98-100" screen.
I have found foamboard at a local art store. It's not Sintra but it does have a smooth, shiny surface which may be paper but I can't tell. It may be appropriate to use (?).

That sounds like "Gatorboard" a Foamboard with with a White paper sheeting laminated upon it. Gatorboard is usable, but be advised that it dents very easily as the underlying Foamboard is not as dense or rigid as Sintra.

Quote:
What do you suggest for the paint version of one or either cocktail? I will be using an older version Wagner power painter (atomizer 1600 PSI).

Also, when painting/dusting light coats, if I wait an hour between coats and do several per day, won't it cause problems with the sprayer tip drying or can I just leave it as is between coats. This may sound stupid but it did strike me as a possible issue.

SF v2.5 4.0 would be best given the suggested PJ and room conditions.

Quote:
I plan on mounting a 1x2 wood frame over 1/4 inch Masonite to the wall. I may try snug fit the screen in the frame so I can swap them out if I want. Does this sound feasible? Or should fasten it to the Masonite permanently with caulking as MM has so eloquently described.

If your wise, I'd do as MM says. That's what I would do.

Quote:
Any help is appreciated. I'm sure I will have more questions as this project evolves.
Cheers,

post #156 of 652
Hey guys -

I am refinishing my theater and have done the MaxxMudd before. Thanks again for that! And thanks to MM for all his help along the way (2 years ago). I had roller marks and now own a sprayer and finally have the time to redo the wall. Would you recommend the dark mix or moderate ambient light mix? Panny AE4000, 15' throw, dark walls, ceiling and floor, BIG screen (140"), total light control. I typically watch movies in the dark, but also host the occasional football game party with either the sconces dimmed or the ceiling recessed lighting dimmed. Pics of the room below. I do have all the ingredients for the Mudd 1.0 as I bought it and never got around to using it if that would work better, but it sounds like 2.0 is an upgrade. Thanks!







And one shot of the "Dexter kill room" where I'll be sanding and spraying!

post #157 of 652
Hello Charlutz...and welcome back!

You mentioned "Mudd 1.0"

Is that referring to RS-MaxxMudd?

If so, then yes...the 2.0 version of MaxxMud is of superior make-up, with a bit more Gain and decreased granularity (...although the original didn't have much anyway...)

In your case, a complete but light sanding of the original surface, with a slight extra focus on the roller marks, followed by a couple shots of Primer and then 3 coats of the new Mix should leave you very pleased!

When working with existing Roller marks, and a Translucent mix like RS-MM, you can't be too anal about doing what needs to be done to cover the Roller marks up before you spray on the finish coats.

Edit:

Ha Ha! I see you added another image...a well done "Tent". Well sort of well done. Be advised that when you reach the very edge of the screen on a pass you have to run off the edge by 6" at least before you drop. The Plastic is just about at the edge of the screen. The pressure of the air from the Gun will make that stuff billow out, so try to expand your "Tent" at least another foot or so.
post #158 of 652
Thanks MM! Yes, it was MaxxMudd 1.0. One question unanswered -- which composition of 2.0 would you recommend for my above described viewing habits and setup? Thanks also for the suggestion re the kill room!
post #159 of 652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlutz View Post

Thanks MM! Yes, it was MaxxMudd 1.0. One question unanswered -- which composition of 2.0 would you recommend for my above described viewing habits and setup? Thanks also for the suggestion re the kill room!


Rs-MaxxMudd "Standard"
post #160 of 652
Hello,

I just recently purchased the Epson 8350 and plan on painting a screen on the drywall. It'll be going in my basement (see picture below) and there's not a ton of ambient light. Although I prefer not to always keep the lights off, since I would also use it for watching tv, sporting events, etc in addition to movies. I plan on doing around 130" screen - projector about 13 feet away on the ceiling.

I was looking at biting the bullet on the Goo Systems, but the RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix sounds like a better (much cheaper) alternative.

Which blend would you recommend? Do I just mix all the ingredients together, then paint - no special order? How much would I need for that size screen (and how many coats)? If I can't use a roller - any recommendations on a cheap sprayer?

Thanks!


post #161 of 652
Hello dapriett,

Given a 13'+ wide screen wall and a main viewing location of 18' I'd suggest you paint a screen of at least 122" diagonal (60" x 106") with the PJ placed at 13' from the screen. (...this allows for using Sintra to paint on. Drywall? OK...you can go for 130" diagonal @ 64" x 113" )

What with the end of the room being such a Boxed in affair, you can greatly...and I do mean greatly...improve the performance and presence of the image by painting out the side walls and ceiling to 5' in a much darker "Flat" Tan. This will be especially advantageous because if you plan on using the Screen as a "Sports-Bar" like affair with people up and moving about, playing Pool and such, because the Couch back's presence (...and a few heads...) will mean the Screen will have to be placed at least 36" off the floor. With a 64" tall screen and what appears to be 96" high wall, that will not really work...will it?

So...dropping down to 28" off the Floor...+ 64"= 88" leaving at minimum 8" between the Ceiling and the Screen.

That means the Ceiling needs to be darkened considerably at least 4-5' out from the screen wall.

RS-MaxxMudd v2 is a good choice...however if your saving the Mortgage Money by not opting for GOO, I'd suggest moving up a notch to Silver Fire v2.5 3.0

Spray with this Gun.

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

Let us know what you going to decide upon, size and paint wise and we'll go on from there.
post #162 of 652
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Hello dapriett,

Given a 13'+ wide screen wall and a main viewing location of 18' I'd suggest you paint a screen of at least 122" diagonal (60" x 106") with the PJ placed at 13' from the screen. (...this allows for using Sintra to paint on. Drywall? OK...you can go for 130" diagonal @ 64" x 113" )

What with the end of the room being such a Boxed in affair, you can greatly...and I do mean greatly...improve the performance and presence of the image by painting out the side walls and ceiling to 5' in a much darker "Flat" Tan. This will be especially advantageous because if you plan on using the Screen as a "Sports-Bar" like affair with people up and moving about, playing Pool and such, because the Couch back's presence (...and a few heads...) will mean the Screen will have to be placed at least 36" off the floor. With a 64" tall screen and what appears to be 96" high wall, that will not really work...will it?

So...dropping down to 28" off the Floor...+ 64"= 88" leaving at minimum 8" between the Ceiling and the Screen.

That means the Ceiling needs to be darkened considerably at least 4-5' out from the screen wall.

RS-MaxxMudd v2 is a good choice...however if your saving the Mortgage Money by not opting for GOO, I'd suggest moving up a notch to Silver Fire v2.5 3.0

Spray with this Gun.

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

Let us know what you going to decide upon, size and paint wise and we'll go on from there.

Hi MississippiMan,

Thanks alot for the reply! The wall I'm projecting on is 13'6" (162 inches) wide by 8'8" (104 inches) tall. My wife was thinking of extending the dark red/burgandy color from the other side of the room all around - do you think that would help? Wish we had our couches already to see the view from behind (on order, est. arrival January). I'll have to think about the darkened ceiling - not sure how that would look (the Mrs. wasn't loving that idea). What color would you use? Anyone happen to have a photo of a home theater with a partially painted ceiling?

I'll definitely check out the Silver Fire - how would you compare it to the Goo? I was almost about to buy the Goo until I saw the custom formulas posted on here. My fear with the Goo is I would somehow botch the coat up, then have to drop another $350+. If they are pretty comparable, then I'll stick with the Silver Fire.

Thanks for the Spray Gun link - looks good!
post #163 of 652
Got an order in for the Sprayer. I think I've gathered up all the information/instructions I need for the Silver Fire. Looks like basically I'm mixing the color & Viscosity/Base separate, then combining them?

What color primer is recommended? How many coats each? What would I use to strain the paint for the spray? Should Michael & Home Depot have mostly everything I need?

Thanks for all your help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

Materials available at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Dick Blicks, Home Depot, Menards, or most any Artist Supply or Hobby Stores.

*Last and Final update/revision - 10/23/2011

SILVER FIRE V2.5

(Color Components)
100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
16ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
9ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

(Viscosity Components)
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish
24 - 36 oz. Distilled or Filtered water*

(Reflective Base Components)*
Silver Fire v2.5 hue (in ounces – oz) 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl* 20 21 22 23 24
Liquitex Basics Silver 20 21 22 23 24
Liquitex Basics Titanium White 10 10 10 10 10
Liquitex Basics Gold 1.50 1.75 2.00 2.25 2.50

* Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl is currently found only at Menards or online.

*the 'base' & 'viscosity' components are to mixed separately from the 'colorant' components.

*Graco electric sprayer starts with 24oz. of water mininum. Wagner DD - 24oz minimum. Wagner CS - 36oz minimum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post

1) mix the base and viscosity components all together in a gallon container.

2) once you've selected your measuring utensils of choice (i personally use the kitchen aid spoons...while others prefer cooking syringes) then your ready to get started mixing the colorant.

3) mix the colorants separately using two smaller containers/bowls. one container is for mixing the colorant and the other is for rinsing the mixing utensils. divide the 100ml of water... putting 50ml into each container.

4) after measuring out each color in the colorant container... thoroughly rinse out the measuring utensil in the rinsing container... and continue on with the next color pigment.

5) after you are done measuring each color pigment and thoroughly rinsing your utensils... then mix/combine the colorant bowl/container with the rinsing bowl/container and mix throughly. this will make a little over 6oz of colorant.

6) then depending of which hue of silver fire you've decide on... you add the correct ounces of colorant to the base/viscosity container and mix thoroughly with a squirrel cage mixer.

7) before you spray... you MUST strain your paint... to remove particles that will clog your spray gun and/or get sprayed as large clumps leaving screen artifacts that will bug you to no end.
post #164 of 652

Hi,

I've posted this thread in a different area, and I'm thinking that nobody (from here) is going notice it, so here it goes:

Ok, like most other requests I see here, I'm finishing my basement with a dedicated room for my HT, which will have its light controlled but not exactly bat cave, as it is a walkout with two full sized windows. So, here are the ever so important details:

1. 10x16.5' rectangular room, painted dark matt forest green. The room itself has no windows, but some light will come in from one side (right side when looking at the screen).
2. PJ is going to be an Epson 3010, as that seems to have been getting many good reviews and is claimed to be "very bright".
3. PJ will be about 16' (or less) from the screen, ceiling mounted.
4. Screen will be painted on, using RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1, and it already has been "primed" with Behr 1850 (using a sprayer).

My questions:
1. According to Epson's website, I should have no problem creating a ~132" screen with a 15.5' throw. Can anyone confirm that?
2. Am I using the right RS-MaxxMudd, or should I use RS-MaxxMudd Retro v.2.1 instead?
3. Is it this simple? It just feels like I'm overlooking a ton of stuff!

Thanks in advance!

SEP
post #165 of 652
Thread Starter 
Palmeiras;

the 3010 is a fL's beast... so it has some ambient fighting capabilities already inherent... so i'll second your thought to go with rs-maxxmudd... using update from 11.11.11 with one exception... i'd use 2 more ounces of the 1850 upw.
post #166 of 652
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

Palmeiras;

the 3010 is a fL's beast... so it has some ambient fighting capabilities already inherent... so i'll second your thought to go with rs-maxxmudd... using update from 11.11.11 with one exception... i'd use 2 more ounces of the 1850 upw.


Thanks, PB!
I'll add those 2 ounces of Behr 1850 to the mix, but should I go with the Retro?

This seems almost a little too easy, so it feels like I'm overlooking something or somethings!

Thanks again!

SEP

post #167 of 652
Thread Starter 
it is that easy. no to retro.
post #168 of 652
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

it is that easy. no to retro.


Great news! Thanks for the reply! I'll post some pictures once I'm done, which I expect to be over the next few days.

Cheers!

SEP

post #169 of 652
Hey mates! Well i have all the ingredients for the Maxxmudd and the sprayer, but it took me a while trying to fix a blotch of spray primer that ended up on the board i was using. Then i found i needed more parts to use the sprayer and got lazy.....soooooo, fast forward to now, i want a bigger screen! I'm going to go with a manual pull-down (Elite screens or Focupix) would i be able to use the MaxxMudd in this case? Or should i buy for an exterior blend as suggested in the retractable paint thread?

This will now be an 82/84'' with the Acer H5360 from about 9' away in a moderately dark room.
post #170 of 652
Thread Starter 
Kingcarcas;

the interior is fine behr upw is fine.
post #171 of 652
I saw in one of the SF threads that Modern Masters white pearl would be a great substitute for the Rustoleum White Pearl. Is that the case for the RS-MaxxMudd v2.1 as well? I am running up against a deadline and don't think I can have the Rustoleum ordered by then. The stock for the Delta paint is pretty much depleted around here. Also I don't want to cut any corners so if the Rustoleum is the absolute best, then I may have to go ahead and order it.

Hey PB and MM, you guys have made an impact on Amazon. When you look up the Rustoleum White Pearl on amazon.com, the item listed as frequently bought together with it, is the Liquitex Basics Silver.
post #172 of 652
Thread Starter 
too funny! i'm sure we've got a lot of sign shops scratchin' their heads too

yes your welcome to beat your deadline with MMasters white pearl.
post #173 of 652
Wouldn't you know it, this MM White Pearl is difficult to find also. Sherman Williams does not carry it, and most of the dealers listed on the MM website either do not carry it or have to order it. I did find one local store that can get it by Monday so I am going to go that route. They order it from a local distributor but unfortunately that local distributor will not sale to the public.
post #174 of 652
Okay, time to update my 142" DIY with RS-MaxxMudd-LL version 1.0. I'm using an Optoma HD3300, and quite frankly, the current Mudd is great for 2D in low lamp mode. The 3D is okay, but could be a little brighter, so I thought I'd upgrade the paint. Been reading the thread. So I think RS-MaxxMudd 2.0 or Silver Fire using some Behr Ultra-White to get rid of the hot spot is the answer. What you all think?
post #175 of 652
Thread Starter 
yes sir. the liquitex silver and rustoleum accents should boost your gain for 3D.
post #176 of 652
Hey I just bought an Epson 8350 and I have a mostly light controlled room. I'm basically only going to watch movies at night anyhow. That's 95% of the use!

Dimensions

Screen wall (not screen size) = 116"W x 96"T
Mount wall = 216" - 12" to front of lens = 204"L or Throw

The room is an L shape and as you can see the surrounding walls are dark as will be the out of screen area of the back wall once complete.

I haven't decided on a screen size until I get the projector but it will use most of that area.

Here are a couple pics.

What mix would you suggest?



post #177 of 652
Hi, I finally finished hanging my screen I built 106" out of 3/8 mdf board and yes I had to do a joint and it turned out seamless and perfect. Painted it with max mudd LL, wrapped velvet around leftover mdf that i ripped down to 2", its night and day difference between my dalight matte white 1gain screen. Even my wife thought it was a huge improvement in picture quality and brightness and made a comment that this loaner dell2400mp since i sold my z2000 looked good and no need to get the rs45, i just said now just imagine what the rs45 will look like. had i known this paint would be this good i would have built one long ago, now i'm curious how my z2000 would have been, may not have gottn the upgrade itch, anyway thanks to all those contributing to the make of this paint.
post #178 of 652
Can you get away with painting an old wall that has some dimple to it or is that just always a NO-GO ? Is it baby smooth walls only ?
Can you skim coat an old wall or are there any kind of tricks to un-dimple an old wall.?...LOL
post #179 of 652
Quote:
Originally Posted by The big picture View Post

Can you get away with painting an old wall that has some dimple to it or is that just always a NO-GO ? Is it baby smooth walls only ?
Can you skim coat an old wall or are there any kind of tricks to un-dimple an old wall.?...LOL

If you paint over any degree of texture, with today's 1080p PJs, the texture becomes quite noticeable. that being said, for many, the convenience of simply applying a paint to a wall often offsets any visible texture-induced artifacts because they are just frankly astounded with the Status Quo.

But not for long.

Skimming over light texture such as rough "Orange Peel" or the rolled on "Knock Down" - or sprayed on "Splatter Wall" is easily done, you just don't want to rush it. Applying 3 very light coats, with sanding taking place after the 3rd coat is better than doing a single "too thick" skim.

Go to the extra effort so you can enjoy a surface that introduces nothing but your projected image to your eyes.
post #180 of 652
Thank's MississippiMan for the reply,

"Orange Peel" Yes Sir, that is the word I was searching for, that is the type of texture the wall has.

Is there a name brand or type of spackle or tools I should use for a job like this ? Or just a big bucket of acme spackle and a trowel ?
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