The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 8

I lived in Columbus, IN for just over a year back in 72/73. And Greenwood in '78 (Blizzard days )...and Bloomington, IN. 73/74 (nekked swimmin' @ Longhole....yippie!) Been in Mississippi since late '84 so I'm already past "fittin' ta be" a Local.

The Mount (Chief RPA168) and Ceiling Plate (Peerless ACC 570) ARE AN EXCELLENT COMBO AND ONE I USE 95% OF THE TIME, IN ONE MANNER OR ANOTHER. ( crap...Cap attack...) Kirk Ritari at PP (ext 2002) is the Man to call as he knows exactly what/why/and how we use 'em. He'll give you the kill deal if you tell him your an AVS on referral from MM

Awesome, thank you. Yup I'm younger than you, but I do remember the Blizzard of 78 (I was 8) school was out, the town shut down, everything at a standstill. Good times for sure! Sure is a small world isn't it. I'll be giving PP a call on the combo.

Regards,

RTROSE

Can the RS-MaxxMudd be sprayed using one of these spray guns from Harbor Freight? (I already own one)
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-h...gun-47016.html

The 'ol Purple Paint Eater! My own "First HVLP".

Yeah...if you know how to adjust it correctly...and you have an adaquate Compressor...and you use a good Water / Rust filter...and a 1.5 / 1.6 mm needle...it'll do a very decent job.

Good deal! I just have to get a water/rust filter. I've been needing to get one of those anyway.

Also note these suggestions.

Gun should have a Regulator on it's handle, and set to 45 psi

Tank's Regulator set to 90 lbs delivered to the Hose

Drain moist air from Tank after each coating to reduce chance of excessive moisture build-up. Otherwise, even the Filter can be overwhelmed.

Use the maximum amount of water suggested to dilute your paint if the Needle is 1.5 mm or less. (30 oz or slightly more.) and absolutely test spray.

Flow Setting should be 3/4 open. Air Mix likewise, but every Gun is different, and in the end you want to see it produce at least a 10" tall vertical pattern that shows an even coating top to bottom.

Overlap each row by 70%

Apply coats lightly, and don't dawdle going across the surface. With a HVLP Gun rig such as yours, the painting will take a bit longer, but don't let that lull you into thinking you can jus6t slow down to let more paint be delivered. No...far better to apply successive lighter coats with lots of overlap than too heavy a coating that might have horizontal banding develop, or worse, drips or runs.

Hi All,
I'm trying to come up with a decent solution for a large (198") screen, with high ambient light. While its primary purpose is presentations during work hours (which is why there's so much ambient light), I'd also love to use this bluray player at night too!

Pushing an Optoma TH1060p Projector, with a claimed 4500 lumens.

Currently, I've only got the drywall in place—so everything is TBD. Open to advice and recommendations. The product I'm competing with is Goo or
the ScreenPaintSupply.com product

What should I be doing?

Blowing 4500 lumens at a 198" screen should be okay with around a 1.3 gain screen. Therefore the MaxxMudd LL or Silver Fire should work for you. With high ambient light, a silver or grey screen would be better to increase contrast. Still 4500 lumens is a lot (and though it's rated at 4,500, don't be surprised if real lumens in more like 3,500). My HD3300 is rated at 2,000 lumens, but probably more like 1,100 hitting my 142" DIY screen with the old MaxxMudd LL and I can have a fair amount of overhead lights on (especially lights in overhead cans), and still enjoy the image. You probably have sunlight from office windows with some blinds that can be closed--my guess. For presentations, it's probably okay since the contrast is pretty much on/off for powerpoint, but for movies you need good gamma and that requires a nice dark room--which you would have after work hours I presume...

My screen is not as smooth as I would like and I can see all the little tiny bumps in the paint. Could I smooth it down with something without having to dry sand? Maybe a damp sponge would knock it down?

My guess is that after using a damp sponge on the wall you will just have to wait until it dries and then do some sanding. In my experience unless the paint is still not completely dry or cured sanding is really the only way to get really smooth.

But hey, why not try and see what you get, if nothing you have only wasted a little time. If it works then you have saved quite a bit of effort and not to mention dust.

Good Luck.

Regards,

RTROSE

what grit of sandpaper would you recommend?

How close to you have to be to see the "Bumps"? Do they feel "rough" or are they just "bumps"? If the latter, your seeing "texture" from how the paint dried (Orange Peel) and that would require more actual sanding and a couple re-coats. Let's hope that is not the case.



If all your doing is getting rid of prickly little, "sand-papery like" bumps, then this is the Sanding block you want. The Fine side.

Fine Grit "Large" Sanding Sponge. (3" x 9" x 1")

http://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/pr...ge_fine-130875

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarest...ge-643721.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Flexn-D.../dp/B004OEH11Y

Use extremely light pressure and broad, sweeping strokes. Your not trying to remove material as much as your wanting to just knock the peaks off of bumps.

Yup,

What MM says. If you don't want to go and get the products that MM suggests and you want to go your own direction, please, please, please, use some type of sanding block that will keep the sand paper flat. You don't want to impart your "own texture" by uneven sanding.

Good luck.

Regards,

RTROSE

I can see the bumps when there is a lighter color being projector onto the screen from my main seating distance of 14 feet. I can also feel them if I were to rub my hand across the screen. I haven't done that yet but I still have the cut off sintra that I had placed above and to the side of the screen when I painted it in the garage. I ran my hand across it several times and it seemed to smooth out the paint almost like I was sanding. I may go ahead and try that on the actual screen to see if it fixes the situation.

Here are a few pics.

Attachment 231954
Attachment 231955

Is that orange peel?

Anita Bryant would be proud.

That will take some sanding to remove. Either a couple go's with a Medium Grit Block, or some "Wet Sanding" with the Fine Grit side. Wet sanding will get it accomplished quicker...but it's also trickier.

After sanding will I need to add more paint?

Yes...of course, since you must remove the paint that is causing the texture.

Then, when you ready to begin again, let be sure to go over your spraying technique again so as to make sure you do not over-apply again.

So I applied too much paint? I thought I had a good technique. I was never in danger of getting a run. Should I have had more water in the mix? I used the wagoner control sprayer.

It doesn't take applying the paint too much heavier than desired to create a "Orange Peel' look, just successive wet, heavier than needed coats. And yes, thickness of the paint can have a lot to do with it. If the paint is thicker, and exits the Gun at a rate the requires a slower pass, then the paint won't settle as well. Temperature also can be a factor, because if the paint takes overly long to dry, it doesn't contrast and settle out as flat as well.

Having a warm, dry environment and the paint as thin as possible, and applying the coats as "Dusters" pretty much avoids the potential for "Orange Peel".

At this point I may just roll instead. I really don't want to have to take the screen out of the theater because it's velcro-ed to the wall.

Another option is to get some DW Wilsonart and glue it to the sintra board. Would that work?

Rolling using a 3/16" Nap Roller can work....but with that comes the requirement that the effort be virtually flawless so that no roller marks are evident.

No chance at all the WA-DW will measure up.

Is it really so logistically distasteful to consider taking the Screen down? If it's Velco'd I'd think you be a lot better off than those who had glued the Sintra in place.

I suppose it can be done. I will need to wait until spring before I can paint again so the weather is warmer.

Right now I have a Wilsonart Designer White screen. Would there be any benifit for me to paint over the current screen with the MaxxMudd? My room is 100% light controled!

Yes. Brighter Image - "Poppy'er" Colors.

I must say that I am VERY happy with my RS45 and the picture I get on my BOC screen. My plan for now is to run it a while and get some hours on the bulb then when I have done that I will take the screen down and put some LL on the BOC to re POP everything.

Thanks for the reply, what do you think would be the best way to paint the board?

Depends upon the type Frame the WA-DW is mounted on....but essentially you would spray on paint for best results.

Rolling is the other option, but comes with less assurance of "best possible" results.