The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 10

No worries. I learned a lot from all of the other threads and it turned out real well.

Thanks pb.

I found the thread and a local distributor that will cut the sintra to the size I need for a 110" screen. I will be working on the RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1 mix next week.

Will the "Wagner 5.4 GPH Power Painter - Optimus 5.4" work for spraying the mix?

Thanks again

If you do not already own that Gun, do not get it specifically for painting a Screen. It's volume and pattern performance is too great for doing a precision job...in my opinion. There is a reason that HVLP Guns are called "Detail Guns". The Power painter is what we call a "Dump Gun"...one that literally dumps paint out really heavily.

If possible, get this Gun.

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

Ordered the HV2900 Spray Station HVLP.

Thanks MM.

Sawrite.

You'll be glad you did.

I just finished painting and hanging the sintra screen. The picture from my hd33 looks amazing after re-calibrating. The blacks are even blacker than before and the colors are beautiful. Thanks MM and PB.

One thing that I noticed last night with bright images is some small grayish spots. I also noticed when I was spraying the paint that there were some larger splotches hitting the screen. The spray was not an even mist. What would cause this? Too thick or not mixed well enough?

got pics?

Ok, so is the new retro mix recommended for 3D?

I switched to a Panny 7000 throwing from 16 feet at 130"

My main concern is black level.

Room is light controlled.

Does max mudd retro hold a lick to SF 5.0?

What do you recommend to for a roll on mixture with awesome blacks?

What about SF without the colorants? I understand I won't get the pop, but will the black levels be consistent?

My screen is already mounted and I can only roll on. Wife will kill me if I spray in the house.

I don't want to change the mixture for maxx mudd, but maybe taylor it to my specific need. Would you recommend adding some Rustoleum Metallic Accents Sterling Sivler AND classic bronze, in maybe 1 oz quantities to the Retro mix? Again, this is only trying to dial it in to my specific need, so everyone else reading this, don't do this. Or even Mettalic Sterling Silver AND basics Gold?

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ALSO, off topic, but this is to help those looking to build a BIG screen and having a hard time finding CHEAP material, and not wanting to splice together wood or drywall and fill gaps and stuff... I struggled with finding a solution. Of course, SINTRA is the golden standard.

Here is my Walmart standard of SF....

Here is what I used. You can buy it at Menards. I haven't checked if its sold elsewhere. But you could probably scan the barcode with your smart phone and see what it comes up with.

You can use any solid back brace with gaps and not have to worry about filling them or sanding them. This goes over the top of them.

It's 72" x 120" solid sheet of vinyl so it's great for a BIG screen, without having to splice base pieces together and sand and fill gaps and all that other boring stuff.

You just lay this stuff over the top of it, and glue or nail it down.

then take a hair dryer and it tightens up nice.

Then prime it, and paint SF right on top of it.

$20 for the roll.

kthejoker20,

If your determined you can "ONLY" roll, then RS-MaxxMudd LL (...using specified paints...) is the only sure-fire rollable Paint Mix that is really High performance. SF Reflective Base is very reflective, and would need some additional UPW added to help corral the reflectivity a bit more in replacement of the Colorant's own effect.

It's the ratio of opaque and reflective in our Mixes that determine what application is best for what specific need.

As for substituting....if done it can be only construed as experimentation. Which is cool because that's the path we all must follow.

Spraying....I spray inside Family Room, Living Rooms, Theaters and such all the time. Just takes some really inexpensive Plastic Drops (9' x 12') and some Thumb Tacks & Tape. I can have anything needed, from simple area masking around the Screen area, to a full blown "Paint Tent Enclosure" ...both that simply get rolled up and tossed.

With the thinner paints and Electric HVLP Guns, you spend all of 1-1/2 minutes engaged in spraying a really large screen, even less on 110"ers and under. So to begin with, there is never too much pant in the air at one time anyway...and always less because it "is" HVLP.

And time? Follow my instructions and you'll knock out a superb re-coat of that existing screen in under 4 hours total time for spraying / drying. (...sorry, masking adds another Pre-Op 1 hr...) Why, you can Get'ter Dun almost any time you can send her out for a day.

You can't do that sort of thing without taking the sensibilities of people into account.
Believe me......it's simply "No Problemo". It's those sort of things that I have experienced so many times that I try to impress on others. "Don't worry, just do it right and it's all going to be better than you expect."

Well...he up'd am rolled it anyway.

Should be interesting......

You know...if the RS-MM Retro was applied with a heavier nap roller, the resulting texture could be lightly sanded down and result in less sheen-ing tendencies.

Might not be as good as Spraying...but better than a slickery, shiney surface.

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kthejoker,

Thanks for that tip on the vinyl. Personally...I think it has real potential, and I plan to check it out fairly soon.

That's how I roll...(...er, Spray...) and when I start a'rolling, I roll fast and big, and I never experiment except with "Full Size" examples.

One thing stands out so far....I've never had to toss out an "experiment" yet!

Ok, here are the example shots I took.

SilverFire 5.5


Behr Silver Screen


Max Mudd retro only 2 hrs of curing.


Max Mudd retro 12hrs of curing, w/ picture adjustment (stock color)



I am not a professional photographer.

The left one is Silver fire 5.5, middle is Behr Silver Screen, Right is Max Mudd Retro

kthejoker,

And these are the examples that the other poster said he could see no difference in?

Seems you were correct in calling him a troll for making adverse comments.

The RS-MM-R clearly shows a definite improvement in Color and Contrast.

That's what I said. There is a huge difference.

Yeah, it wasn't easy. I went through 6 fine rollers.

It was a real pain to get the paint lines off. I had to mount a light on the side of the screen to see the bumps. Then when I had a bump, I had to gently paint over from complete side to side. I tried just going over where the line appeared, but then they doubled, so the complete side to side worked, slow, but worked.


I would have sprayed it on, but wife will kill me, plus I am working with a 5 foot gap from the front of my screen to the front of the floor, there is a 16 foot drop in between. So mounting painter cloth and taping where not a real option.

kthejoker20,

excellent result! just curious what kind of roller were you used for the maxxmudd retro?

I'll have to check and get back to you. I don't remember the name. I'll have it later tonight.

But I do recommend to all considering this, to spray it on. You really don't know what your up against rolling it.

Ok, so over a month after I was originally planning on painting my screen (kept trying to take time off from work, but been swamped at work), I finally got around to getting started last night. Moved the projector about 2 feet closer to the wall, and about 1 foot to the left, finally determined exactly where i wanted it (its an Epson 3010, no screen shift). Will be going with MaxxMudd LL as MM suggested for me a while back.

So got the entire wall sanded today, baby butt smooth, vacuumed it entirely with the central vac to get it free of all dust, and am about to spray the first primer coat with the 2900 sprayer (first time using it).

So on primer, I have two different gallons of Zinsser primer.

The first is "Zinsser PrimeCoat 2 Primer & Sealer", and the second is "Zinsser Bulls Eye Water-Base Multi-Purpose Primer and Sealer".

Both are water based, interior. Does it matter which one I use? Any recommendations? And I assume I add about 1/3 water to this, correct?

Also, from memory I believe the recommendation was at least two coats of primer before going with the MaxxMudd LL, correct? And about 30-45 minutes between primer coats, correct? And a light sanding between coats.

Hopefully I can get the primer coats up tonight and then paint the border on the wall. Followed by painting the MaxxMudd LL probably Monday night.

Please let me know if I have all this correct. Ready to finally get this done!

Thanks!

Ok, so went ahead and sprayed two primer coats. Second one is drying now, will probably go for a third either tomorrow or Monday.

I do have an issue though, there is a small area of three "spots" that the primer is not adhering to. Unfortunately it will be in the visible screen area (I primed the whole wall - not just the screen area).

Here's a picture of it.

So what is the best way to handle this? I tried sanding it lightly after the first coat in hopes that would help, but it did not. My next thought is to get a very small paint brush, dab it with primer, let that dry, and then sand (assuming that sticks) before going with the third primer coat.

Last resort would perhaps be to apply a little bit of sheetrock mud, let dry and lightly sand before applying another run or two of primer.

Any thoughts? Other than that, it looks like its turning out well.

Attachment 239270

BTW Picture is poor since took from an iPad. Wall really is white not tan. :-)

Yesterday evening (before I saw your post or I may have put a bit of mud up) I actually went ahead and dabbed a bit of primer on the spots, (full strength, not diluted), let it dry (helping along with a hair dryer). Then sanded a bit flat with a 220 sanding screen (sanding sponge was too fine to do any good), then repeated.

Paint stuck this time and sprayed 3 more coats of primer and all that held. Still very slight divots (VERY slight) if you look hard for them, but much better. Got the projector permanently mounted in its final location and tightened everything on the mount. Projected a movie on the primed wall, and as best as I could try, could not see ANY indication of the areas, even when looking from about 2 feet away right at where the spots where projecting bright white. So needless to say, think I can stop obsessing over it and it shouldn't be noticeable (especially after an additional 5 coats of the MM that I'll spray tonight or tomorrow). So far it has come out FAR better than I imagined. Primer was virtually perfect in consistency (other than those spots which now are not an issue), and the wall is perfectly smooth to the touch.


So I do have one further question. I primed the whole wall as I was going to paint the border for the screen as well a flat ebony. Would the recommendation be to tape and paper up the area for the screen and paint the ebony border FIRST, and THEN reverse and do the screen? Or spray the screen first?

I'm thinking its best to do the rest of the wall (border) first and then the screen so that I don't have to have any tape touching the screen surface when I do the border (of course when I initially paint the border I will, but that's just tape on primer, and I'll be spraying the MM afterwards).

So almost ready to be awed by the wonderful improvement in picture quality with the MM painted screen. :-) BTW - Projected Alice in Wonderland in 3D on the primed wall and even in dynamic, can tell that my bulb has lost a bit of brightness from several months ago (though totally possible that the flat primed white wall now actually has less reflection that the old gray eggshell finish that was there prior). Bulb is right at 200 hours (Epson 3010), so guess this is as expected.

So looking forward to the gain the MM will provide for the 3D Viewing.

At the moment, I'm not planning on using any type of velvet, wooden, etc border around the screen but just butting the ebony paint up to it very carefully. Is this a mistake?

Oh, and BTW - wanted to throw a HUGE recommendation for the "No Name" 2900 sprayer. I had never sprayed anything before and didn't do any practicing prior (other than about 30 seconds on the plastic covering for the wall), and had no issues whatsoever, believe everything was practically perfect.

So I'll add to the chorus for those who are hesitant to spray, that there is no big deal to it. Take it slow, easy, and walk consistently, and it will work out great. Only had the sprayer sputter once and that was when I knew I was low on paint and was spraying the bottom of the wall (outside of the projected screen area), and even with that, the little bit of splatter dried totally smooth and one can't tell it.

Almost fool proof.

I will say however, that you definitely will want to totally enclose the spraying area in plastic from top to bottom. I have a slanted ceiling, 8' at the screen wall going to 15' in the center of the room. So 5' back from the wall, the ceiling is around 12'. Thought 10' plastic would be fine, only about a 2' gap from ceiling to plastic. After 5 sprays of primer, noticed that the blades from ceiling fan (which was on at the time, outside of the "tent") were coated white and had "paint dust" and a bit of dust on couch. No issue, paint was dry by the time it hit it (just wipe off with a dry rag for blades and quick vacuum of the couch). But I can definitely attest that you should have your "paint tent" from floor to ceiling.

I'll run another piece of plastic up the rest of the way before the MM sprays (which I may not be as lucky cleaning up this).

Only if you need a bit of the outside perimeter to mask any slight framing overage. If so...your gonna see some degree of the over spill during any brighter content.

MississippiMan - First post! I've read through this entire forum and have a few questions around my situation.

I'm moving into a house that has a 90% finished basement. The drywall is up and the walls are textured. I'm going to do a Home Theater in the main basement room, however there is a bit of a problem with the ceiling. The walls are 8' tall but there is an AC duct that that is 1' deep and 3' wide that splits the ceiling. That makes the center of the room only 7' and limits where I can put my projector to within 8.5' of the screen. I researched short throw projectors and am thinking the Optoma GT750E is going to be my best bet. 3k lumens, 3k:1 contrast and at an 8' throw it can project to 155". Seating distance will be about 10'. I also have two windows that I hope to get blackout blinds for. Here is the room:


I would like to use the drywall as my substrate but it is pretty heavily textured right now (no paint on it yet).

Question #1 - Based on your previous suggestions, should I paint over and light-sand to get it smooth or to skim with joint caulk then sand? Or should I just go with Sintra?

Question #2 - Based on provided info, would I be more happy with Retro, LL, or 2.1 MaxxMudd?

Question #3 - Is MaxxMudd going to be my best option above pre-mixed paints (GOO, PaintonScreen.com) or even ready-made projector screens (Elite, EZ)?

Question #4 - What is the best way to frame the screen? Velvet? Flat black paint?

Question #5 - Any other suggestions for a self-proclaimed noob (I'll admit it!)?