The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 12

So it turns out that a good friend of mine has connections at SnapAV and was able to get me a GREAT deal on a 100" Dragonfly 16:9 Fixed High Contrast screen. Dragonfly is SnapAV's brand for their projection screens. So unfortunately I wasn't able to test out RS-Mudd or Silerfire... maybe one day. For what its worth I was able to get it for pennies on the dollar. By the way, the High Contrast Dragonfly screen is amazing if you have the lumens for it.

Can you really get the Behr 1850 at Home Depot? I can't find it on their website. It's about an hour drive for me. Is there more to the name (like is there a "premium" in there somewhere?)

Or, could someone provide a link to the right stuff. I want "Flat", right? Indoor, I assume?

Thanks,
Mike

I went to Home Depot and found the paint. It actually says 1850 on the can. It was about $12 for a quart, $24 for a gallon. It is a current product.

OK, I have acquired most of the materials, but can't decide which recipe to use. The projector is a JVC RS40 in a low-light room (but not zero light). The ceiling is flat white on knock-down texture. The screen size will be at least 160". The walls are currently a tan color, but may be darkened up in the future. I plan to spray the finish on a smooth sheetrock wall.

Part of me says Retro V2.1 (I like that it is darker grey and high gain) but am concerned about the viewing angle since the screen is so large. Another part of me says LL V2.1 since the JVC has great black levels. Finally, I'm considering just using the standard MaxxMudd V2.1 since it seems to split the difference between the other 2!

Clearly, I can't decide which one to go with. Any suggestions? Does anyone have the gain of each version?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

Ha ha....to be so torn!

I'd strongly suggest using Standard RS-MaxxMudd

I'm curious what the experts would recommend here, one of these mixes, or a something else altogether.
I have a 110" unpainted BOC screen (fabric side out) with a Optoma HD3300 in a completely light controlled room with dark walls and ceiling.
Currently 3D is awesome, however blacks suffer in low contrast dark scenes in 2D.

I do not want to go to a low gain screen that will improve the 2D but lose the pop and brightness that I currently have in 3D.

I have access to a sprayer as well.
How many coats are typically applied? I assume these mixes are all latex / water based?


TIA
Craig

What type of "Sprayer"?

You'd almost assuredly do best with RS-MaxxMudd v2 LL

Sprayer I was planning on using is one of the Wagner electrics, but I could probably get my hands on a pneumatic as well.
What is approximate gain of this paint?

Ahhhhh, but which Wagner is all important. Cannot be a "Power Painter". Must be a Electric HVLP. I'd avoid Compressor types. Too much cost and too many PITA considerations.

Approx. 1.3 gain

Well crap, it is a power painter.
I can borrow a pneumatic hlvp I think, though i've never used one before.

Hi - (so here is ... my HT heaven)

Now I am thinking maybe my problem is more my wall and ceiling paint and not the screen. Not that I may want to try silver fire too as you suggested - but I may have other problems to address first. I may need to go with a flat black on the ceiling and in the box area insert where the screen is. As you can see - the reflective light also comes off the plexi on the poster frames too. I am clearly not having a black level issue from the projector onto the screen. I did the tray ceiling and trim in a gold muted metallic - which looks great - but ... hmmm – look at that reflection. The rest of the walls ceiling and boxed in area by the screen are an eggshell, which is probably too shiny too.

"Its not your daughters bed. It's her brain"

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7701544...th/7057527393/

myHTheaven,

Yep....that's a nice Room.

Believe it or not, Flat black will still shine with a bluish glow because your surfaces are in such "right angle" proximity to the Screen.

Solution? Black Velvet would look far more classy than a dill, dusty "Flat" which is in fact pug-ugly to see when the lights are up. Your room certainly does not deserve that treatment.

I also agree, gross reflectivity issues that lead to big reductions in Contrast (black level rendition) don't exist when your completely "Lights Off", even with the glossy reflections from the Shadowbox surfaces figured in. Their obvious effect is really cosmetic...a distraction tat keeps your Screen from being the real focus of attention.

But ambient light as represented in the 2nd image is affecting your IQ significantly, and that is where Silver Fire can, and would make all the difference. In fact, it would make the "Bright Room" shot's black levels on the screen look better than blacks on the "low ambient light" shot.

'Sup to you to determine as to if you want to take that great example of Theater design to a whole 'nother level.

MM, would you recommend that I try the air sprayer, or attempt to roll on the v2 LL?
Are best results likely with the screen vertical hanging on the wall, or horizontal laying on the floor?
I'd rather not buy the electric sprayer. If I'm not happy with the results of this experiment I will likely purchase some screen material.

BlackSS,

I'll not say that people haven't tried to use a wagner power painter before, but I know of no 1 who have sprayed an advance reflective mix with one with satisfying results. They just about too much painttoo fast for thin paint mixes.

You can roll on the RS-MM LL, and it can and should be done with the screen hanging in place where it will be. The paint, and they act of rolling it, it's all pretty well understood to be effective and a great way to get a good screen.

However, when rolling the weakest link is always the technique that's used. Frankly, sprayin is so easy and so affective, that it's virtually guarantees a perfect surface every time. The "No Name" sprayer costs just $49.00, and not the same or sometimes less than the cost of good rolling supplies.

It is highly unlikely you could buy manufactured screen material for less than 50 dollars, and then you must construct the frame up and such a cloth, etc.

If you're good at rolling on page, and not leaving roller marks, then by all means give it a go because that will probably satisfy you the most.

As for me, I'll always advocate spraying over rolling, because I know what a tremendous surface spraying has provided so many, and has the potential to provide you as well.

The thing is that I already have a BOC screen and frame built and in place. I plan to pull the screen down, remove the trim peices and paint the BOC (which has couple minor blemishes). I'm looking at trying the DIY route as a cheap alternative before I go spend hundreds on some purpose specific material to replace / go over the BOC.

I have everything I would need to roll except for a good roller. What is the no name sprayer you refer to?

Are you wanting to spray paint old blackout cloth material?

If so, and if the material is stretched tightly, rolling might be best because usually you need to "roll prime" the BOC before you spray. Obviously if you're rolling on the finish paint, rolling on a primer for allows you a chance to sand down the primer to a very smooth surface, and that in turn will help provide you more assurance of a better finished screen surface.

That is still the required and suggested method to go about doing so even if you are spraying on the finish coat

Yes, I would be painting the BOC screen and it is stretched pretty tight.

What would you use for a primer?

Glidden "Gripper"

I'm on my cell phone right now. I cannot send you a link on the no name sprayer.

But it's on www.gleempaints.com and listed under "Starter / Beginner HVLP Systems.

That looks like a latex primer. You can sand it?
Roll the primer on with a 1/4" fine nap roller?
Any real method, or just try to avoid roller marks?

The I think I found the sprayer you're talking about, it is pretty cheap.

It is Latex, and it sands down just fine using a medium Grit (100) "LARGE Sanding Sponge" (3" x 8" x 1") Use wise, sweeping strokes that gently "Kiss" the surface....not press it inward to any real degree.

The proper procedure is this:

Use a 1/4" or 3/8" Nap Roller of the best quality you can manage. Dampen it first with water, then load it up to where it doesn't drip, but the Roller cover is saturated.

Apply the Primer normally, not "lightly" nor "heavily", and do so with a degree of care commensurate as to it being a surface you'd want to look at "as is"...therefore with no roller marks...at all. If after the first Coat drys, and you lightly sand it, you determine another coat is called for, "that" coat should be done a little lighter...then also lightly sanded.

Do that, and you should have an excellent surface to proceed with.

Now...your either gonna Roll or Spray the Finish coats. Lemmie tell ya sumpthin'.....if you do opt to spray, the job goes really fast...each of the required 3-4 coats go on in less than 50 seconds for a 100" surface...and the finish is an order of magnitude better than you could ever roll on when using a high performance Mix.

The "No Name" sprayer?(Graco 2900) http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html I've got 2...plus a $80.00 Wagner CS Plus, and since I got the No Name, it's all I use. It's a great little Job-doer, and you better believe you'll get plenty of other use out of it.

Just re-post if you get it, and if you cannot find any of the many Videos or comprehensive tutorials on spraying I have already posted, I'll be sure to hook you up.

Get'ter Dun!

PS.
If you roll, you own your own.

First off, let me apologize for not posting final pictures of my screen (as I promised) almost ONE MONTH after I finished. Work travel has been killing me, so I'll use that as my excuse, but another is just that I've been watching so many movies on the EXCELLENT screen now.

One thing I'll throw out as well. Instead of working on a masking solution, I sanded my entire wall, primed everything, and then taped off the screen area first, spraying the rest with a Valspar (Lowe's brand) Flat Latex with Ebony color... (Ebony is the actual Valspar name).

Painted this EXACTLY up to the edge of where the screen would be that was previously marked off and taped up tightly.

Then did the reverse, masked off exactly the black area, revealing the screen and painted 5 coats of MaxMudd-LL. End result was an almost perfect edge (just did a few MINOR touchups where the MM got slightly under the tape into the black area, couldn't see it from back, but I'm a perfectionist).

The Ebony color (a few shades lighter than a perfect dark black) is PERFECT IMHO for a mask. I see NO reflection whatsoever of the light on the projector, and the projector comes up to the edge just perfectly. So I would highly recommend this as an alternative to building a wooden or velvet mask. ONe thing I will say is that contrary to Valspar's claims of this flat being washable, I don't see it - perhaps since it is tinted so dark, but it gets stuff on it easily just like one expects from flat paint. But that said, so long as you leave it alone, its fine. My speakers, audio rack, subwoofer, etc all fade into the Ebony when a movie is on and you can never notice them while watching.

BTW - I'll agree that spraying is the way to go. Was a big amount of trouble though putting plastic over the ceiling, and 12' up at one point for my "paint tent", but was worth the trouble. The spraying itself was a piece of cake and went VERY quick.

Is that no name sprayer always that price or is it really on sale? I am not planning on messing with painting my screen for a few months, but if I would save a good chunk of cash by buying the sprayer now I would do so.

They are almost all gone, and when they are, so are the chances of getting anything comparable for under $80-100.00

You snooze and...............

I bought one from Gleem Paint, but if they run out, these are just as cheap:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Refurbished-...#ht_500wt_1265

Well, I ordered the sprayer and a couple of the ingredients I got tired of looking for locally.
I am planning the LL version, but I am a little concered about the gain of 1.3, anything I can do to bring that down into the 1.3 range without adding more grey? I've never had a grey screen and am also concerned about how that will affect bright scenes (snow covered mountain, etc...)

Good find. And yes sir, since Gleem charges Freight, and the company you linked to does not, the overall price is even a couple dollars less.

Furthering PB's comments, you certainly don't want to reduce gain if your concerned how a Gray might affect your perception of how bright a Snow Covered mountaintop will look.

And you absolutely do not want less gain than you can muster when viewing 3-D content.

At most, you might want to run the PJ on Economy when watching Bright 2-D content in complete darkness (Broadcast TV the most...) , but the last thing to consider is that as your Bulb dims with age, the Screen will continue to help compensate.

People have justified buying Da-Lite High Power Screens for just that reason alone for many years on now.

I visited HD, Lowes, Ace and Michael's today for my paints and was able to find everything except Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl, so I wandered off to Amazon to get it from there.

Umm, is $138.48/qt the normal price?!?! The 2oz size is in the $33 range.

Any other options?

My goal is to get a 165" diag 16:9 on drywall with an Epson 3010 using RS-MaxxMudd v2.1 standard and Harbour Freight HVLP in a mostly light controlled room. If there are better recommendations (LL?), then please tell me!

rearden

Rearden,

No, that price is in error, so do not click on it to buy.
The normal price is $31.09 a quart.