The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 13

I probably should have asked earlier, but is there any problem painting the fabric (not vinyl) side of the boc?
I do plan on some white primer before spraying.

That will be required. Mostly, people paint the Vinyl side because although that too requires primer, it's much easier to cover.

Used to was, people preferred using Artist's Gesso to pre-treat the Fabric, owning to the much coarser surface. I can't really say that applying primer alone will suffice to cover and smooth the texture of the cloth. Simply put, I cannot recall of anyone having used the Cloth side.

The closest I can come up with along those lines is member Bud16415's "Canvas Screen" project:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=635968

He actually used a Brush to apply his paint, so with that in mind, brushing on a thick Primer, sanding, then spraying on another coat might probably do the trick. I'd review Bud's thread and perhaps shoot him a PM for any specific advice unless he happen along here first.

Well, I put on 3 coats of glidden gripper with a couple of quick passes with sanding block between coats. The fabric side soaks up a lot of paint.
I then put a very light duster coat of the LL mix on followed by 3 or 4 heavier coats. I am suprised how white the screen is with the amount of gray that goes into the mix.

Anyway, I hung the screen back up last night and watched about 20 minutes. So far no big complaints. Blacks seem marginally better, and the couple of bad spots on the screen are no longer driving me crazy, so mission accomplished.

You guys and your crazy success stories about painting your screens....

Well I have bought in. I ordered a "no-name" sprayer and once it arrives I plan to paint my boc screen and see how it looks. If it turns out as well as all of the ones I have read about I plan to wait until fall and order a large sheet of Sintra to up my screen size to about 110 and paint it as well.

Once my sprayer comes in I will probably hit you guys up with some questions...:-)

Beware of orange peel, that's what happened to my screen.

I have a few questions about the Retro mix. My brother has a draper grey screen and I am wondering how it compares to that.

Will it block ambient light as well?

Does it have the same annoying shine that is visible in light scenes like when watching a hockey game?

What are its downsides? Will there be any hotspoting with the extra gain or viewing angle issues?

We are projecting with a epson 6500 UB so hopefully this is a good mix to use.

Also I am wondering if anyone has written a good guide to follow? I painted a screen a few years ago with missipimans older mix and I remember the guide was well written but cant seem to find a good one on the newer mixes.

Thanks

Im curious if this is the same liquitex silver thats in the formula?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KNJDL4

OK, I've constructed the screen from sheetrock and had a gallon of Sherwin-Williams latex primer setting around, so I used it. I put it on with a foam roller, leaving a textured surface. From a distance, it looks smooth like sheetrock, but when you run your hand over it, it has a little tooth to it.

If I sand it with 220 grit paper it become glass-like. It feels very, very slick (almost like a sheet of Teflon). Here are some options:
1) Spray the RS-MM V2.1 on the unsanded current primer
2) Sand the current surface smooth, then spray (this would suck)
3) Put on another coat of primer with a traditional roller (or spray it on?)
4) Roll or spray a coat of Behr 1850 to get started, then switch over to the mix?

Or, if I'm over-thinking this whole thing, and none of this makes any difference, just say so! I'm the type that will live with the results for decades.....I only want to do it once, no matter how painful the one time is!

Sand it lightly & carefully. If you already did that...and it's smooth, omit this suggestion.

Wipe (brush actually) off any dust. (if you do sand again or have not already done so...)

Spray on the Finish Coats.

Well, over the weekend I was able to "getter done". I learned how to use the no-name sprayer, which I was very impressed with, and spray the screen with RS-MM V2.1 in one day. By the time I masked it off and made a plastic tent, it was a pretty long day, but I got it done.

I started off with my attempt at two duster coats. I had the gun too close, but made up for it by going way too fast. Coverage was sparse, so I went back over it again, for a total of 2 coats. The result was very even, as I made sure to overlap plenty.

While it was drying, I scoured this site for spraying tips and found this helpful thread with pictures: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1291131

Next I put down 3 heavier coats, allowing each to dry about 2 hours. Finally, I put down 2 duster coats with the gun around 20" from the screen. It was after midnight at that point, so I went to bed.

The next day we tried it out and were very pleased. My wife was very impressed with the picture. Zero hot spotting or other issues. Looks perfect.

I wanted to express my thanks to MM for walking me thought this project. Without this thread there is no way I attempt this screen, and would be settling for a much smaller, more expensive screen.

If I were to make a suggestion, it would be a sticky link with detailed instructions on the mechanics of spraying with an HVLP sprayer. Something like this:

1) Getting paint thinned correctly.
2) Distance and Rate to lay down the various coats.
3) Dry time recommendations
4) When to clean the gun
5) How much paint it takes

I was able to find the info, but searching was tedious. All the info in one spot would be very handy. Thanks again MM, you are da man!

Hi MM,
could you direct me to a link where I can find a paint for a VW85 it's around 36K:1 true contrast. I was looking for something similar to Goo CRT/Ref white that I could paint over a blackout coated screen. Thank you.

Well, that might not be too hard to do.

Both Sherwin Williams and Glidden make exceptional white paints that will do a fine job
But you still have to make it past applying a good coating on through the blackout cloth.

Both those paInts are going to be special orders, and even know neither 1 is an inexpensive paint, both are many times a less expensive than GOO .

On my phone at present, not near a pc , so I must wait until I am to give you the specific names of the paints.

...... unless someone else can come to my rescue beforehand.

Thanks MM

Sawrite.

Sherwin Williams Pro Classic white satin

Glidden Diamond white flat ( special order at glidden stores )
The latter might have a numerical designation, but I do not have it handy at present

Hey guys, last year i did a 120 inch diagonal screen using the maxxmudd and I have a exactly one quart left. I moved to a smaller place and the most I can do is 92 inch diagonal. Without having to rebuy all the supplies, is the 1 quart enough for the 92 inch?
Thanks

With my very limited experience, I would say no. It's close though. If you started by spraying a few coats of basic white paint, maybe it would be just enough?

Have you already diluted it for spraying? If not, the addition of 1/3 volume of water, well mixed, could be dusted upon a well prepped, "WHITE PRIMED" 92" surface.

Dusters done right risk little error, and I hardly ever use 2 full quarts on even a 120" diagonal screen.

I haven't done anything yet. I have to paint the room in which I'm doing tomorrow. I guess I'll re-buy the supplies just in case It's not enough. Thanks for the help.

You should be able to ratio out the needed components to make a smaller mix. Otherwise, I'm better someone will be willing to take your Leftovers. Your gonna have plenty left to do another 100" screen.

Went by home depot today and noticed the Behr 1850 has been replaced by a new formula that does not require priming (has primer in it?).

Do you think this has any effect on the performance of screen paints using this component?

I think they (MM & pb)say not to use it or don't like it much.
MississippiMan or pb_maxxx using an all in one Paint & Primer would be like Farrah Fawcett using that all-in-one Shampoo & conditioner junk...

Darn! This seems to be true!!!

Is there a recommended alternative?

Strangly....at least two other individuals have been told the same thing, yet when they bothered to go look carefully over the shelves, there that 'ol 1850 was. Inconspicious....but there nonetheless.

Of course Behr is promoting thier "Premium Plus Ultra" over the more basic, less expensive brands, but there is the difference between the various "Bases" and a stock UPW. Be certain to check both the "Base" paints used for mixing tints, and the actual UPW paints. You might find the 1850 sitting up there neglected.

As for an alternative, a standard Behr 1050 Flat will do. A Interior Flat Latex "Enamel" is preferred because of it's very slight sheen, and tougher consistancy due to the increased amount of acrylic within, but in no way will substituting a regular "Flat Latex" adversely affect the end result coming from the Mix.


I'll have you know I "DO" use the "All in One" Shampoo/Conditioners. Regular Conditioners leave my hair limp and greasy after 24 hours. Farrah would not of approved.

.......haven't tried 'em running through a No Name sprayer though.........

Excellent! Thanks...

I was looking online last night when I wrote this and it only shows a 18501 (which is the combined). I'll need to head over and see if they have 1850 in stock or your alternative.

Just got back from Home Depot. According the the guys in the paint section, the "old" 1850 is no more. Some stores may have the old stock, but when it's gone it's gone. In my case, it's already gone. The new 1850 has the exact same number on the can, but says "new".

They have done the same thing with the 1050 also --- it has has primer built in. You may find some old stock, but all new 1050 will have the primer.

Has anyone done a MaxxMud screen with the new primer versions? Any concern about going ahead with it?

No....just more costly.

You can hit Lowes to acquire some pure white acrylic "Paint" Valspar Base 1 Satin is suggested.

Better still, Sherwin Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Finish.

Ok... Getting organized to do my first RS-MaxxMud LL 2.1... I'm feeling pretty confident.

Here is what I have

1) 3 of the 4 oz. Liquitex Acrylic Color Basics Silver
2) 2 of the 8 oz. Minwax water based polycrylic protective finish crystal clear finish
3) 32 oz. Sherwin Williams ProClassic smooth enamel finish acrylic latex (water based)
4) 32 oz. Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents water based metallic finish while pearl

I got the ProClassic instead of the Behr with built in primer based on the suggestion above.

Here is my plan

1) Get to know my new Wagner Control Spray max HVLP
2) Use new HVLP sprayer to put coat of Killz 2 (latex) on substrate

Question: multiple coats needed?
Question: do I need to sand this? If so, is 1000 grit ok?

3) Create the RS-MaxxMud LL, which is

10 oz. of the Liquitex Acrylic Color Basics Silver
20 oz. of the Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents water based metallic finish while pearl
12 oz. of the Sherwin Williams ProClassic smooth enamel finish acrylic latex
12 oz. of the Minwax water based polycrylic protective finish crystal clear finish
20 oz. of distilled water

4) Use my drill connected paint mixer (for 1 gallon) to fix it up (I wasn't able to grab a squirrel cage one)

5) Using sock paint strainer for 1 gallon can, pour mixture through. Ensure it passes through the strainer at the same speed I pour it in (when poured at reasonable rate)

6) If I get here, I'm good to go.

Question: Do you recommend a round or vertical spray pattern?

7) Spray about 5 duster coats. This means move across surface at about 2-3 feet per second. Overlap each row by about 70%. Held about 14" away. Let dry 30-45 minutes between coats

8) Done!

Any comments before I get started? I may do the killz 2 tonight, but the real mixing/spraying will be tomorrow or Sunday.

Thanks for all the info here!

You must be mad.

Apply at least 3 coats of primer.
Sand (lightly) the 2nd & 3rd primer coats. 100 grit sponge is fine, but a Fine Grit Sponge is best. Fond them in the Drywall Supply section.
Always use a vertical pattern.



Enjoy the coming insanity. You are not alone in your dementia.

How tall should the spray be when 14" away from the surface?

Update: went from 2 oz. of distiller water (for 16 oz. of killz2) to 3 oz and it is spraying much better.