The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 14

Well... seems to be going well. I'm on my 3rd coat (after for Killz2 coats to clean up the surface).

I went with the plain MaxxMudd 2.1 (not retro, not LL).

It's hard to see what I've sprayed... maybe it's he lighting?

I think I have enough for 2 more duster coats, so I'll try and do that tonight.

It seems to dry in about 45 minutes with a fan blowing on it...

Coat #4 @ 11PM
Coat #5 @ 11:45PM
Clean sprayer...
Bed!

Check it out in the morning.

It's looking slightly gray, not white or silver. Expected?

Oh mad one....,

The regular RS-MaxxMudd has a very light Gray-ish White appearance, that some say has a slight Silver-ish cast when viewed under bright lighting conditions. It's not a dark Gray, or even a light Gray by any description.

Well... good/bad news.

Good: I can absolutely see MaxxMudd is a great mix.

Bad: I've got texture on my MaxxMudd screen and it makes the viewing worse than my previous DIY screen

So for all future MaxxMudders, don't think that a little texture in your base material is going to be ok. Scattered in this thread is the statement that it should be "baby bottom" smooth. Make sure you adhere to that advise.

So then...lets take care of that texture!

It shouldn't be too bad, especially if it only became apparent in the last 1-2 coats.

Since you were dusting, what can happen is that even though the previous coats seemed dry, as they build up, some degree non-evaporated moisture remained and it too was covered by another coat, which effectively traps the original moisture, and then it in turn receives the same treatment.

Even if the first 3 coats are done reasonably correct as far as the amount applied, and the "Top Surface"surface appears to be dry the overall coating can still have retained quite a bit of moisture. This can be ascertained by feeling the surface temperature of the "supposedly dry" coating. Simply put, the surface should feel the same as the room temperature...not just "tack free" and it should "NOT" feel "cool" to the touch.

Applied or ambient heat, combined with directed / circulated can really hasten drying times. Whenever I discuss such, the use of one or more of those assets is always mentioned, never just implied. 30 minute drying times between coats works only with ideally suited drying conditions, and or heat / air assists.

In any case, once the amount of un-dried paint mass builds up, water that is trying to evaporate out raises bubbles....lumpy areas that are what is known as Orange Peel. If this happens toward the end of the painting process, a sanding to smooth the affected areas, followed then by at least two additional Dusted coats will effectively solve the situation. If the problem has roots in earlier build-ups, then more aggressive sanding is needed.

The key element in this is to maintain the application of thin coats and to allow sufficient drying times. If steps can be taken to decrease drying times through increased evaporation rates, then...and only then cab one coat follow another in time intervals of 30 minutes. Otherwise, 60 minutes minimum is called for.

Just wanted to follow-up that my 3rd attempt went great and I ended up posting about it in a separate thread. See

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1415326

As always, MississippiMan has been a great help!

Thanks for that. A few recent DIY'ers have been pretty high maintenance, but also very patient and willing to get it done right the first time...or correct mistakes without grousing. (...well, not "on Forum" at least. ) That sort of attitude always inspires me to go the extra mile as far as helping all I can.

The components in Canada are really hard to find !
Would it be possible for you to buy everything needed and sell them as "bundle" for us in Canada ?
Or, is someone knows where (online or in store) we can buy all the stuff in Canada ?

Thanks a lot

I have painted 5 coats now on a brand new wall (previously untainted) and the picture quality is amazing. However, I have very light roller marks all over the screen. They have gotten better with each coat of paint and the last coat was put on about 2 weeks ago. I have just enough paint mix for one more coat. What should I do?

You only notice the marks with things like baseball where the camera moves across a solid color. I have painted this screen two times before and never had a problem. I'm baffled as to what could be wrong now.

I used a 3/16" nap roller with a smaller 6" trim roller in between. My first two coats were admittedly sloppy. Maybe that is the problem?

Anything anyone can suggest is appreciated.

sullender,

The translucency of the RS-MaxxMudd mix doesn't work toward "Coverage" of rolling artifacts. What happened was you applied the initial coats too lightly, and by working the paint too much, set down evert so slight ridges that are transferring through the subsequent layers. I wish this was noted earlier on, so you could have corrected those marks then re-applied the following layers.

Not knowing exactly how much paint you have left, the best advice I can give is to use a 9" Roller, apply the paint as heavily as you can, work the wet edges just enough to blend, then stop and get away. You only hope is to apply the remaining paint as heavily and precisely as possible. It may still not cover the underlying marks completely, but it will be as good as it possibly can be.

Thanks for the quick response. I figured that might be what is happening. I can always get more paint though. Is the key just to apply it very heavily? Sould I sand before I do this?

I want this to be right no matter what it takes.

Well honestly....then spending $50.00 on the No Name HVLP ** and spraying would be the only assured course. ** http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

Rolling any mix with a high degree of reflective components presents problematical results at best. RS-MaxxMudd LL is the only one I/we suggest that can be done, but even then, correct rolling technique must be employed.

Such was why I stopped advocating rolling several years ago. I could instruct people until the symbols on my keyboard were worn off (...happened at least 3 times in 4 years...) and yet all it takes is one rolling pass leaving rolling marks that is not corrected immediately and achieving a "close to perfection" screen surface isn't gonna happen.

Applying paint "heavily" is a subjective term. What I meant was that enough paint is loaded on the roller to assure that at least 2 vertical rows can be applied "wet" and then the roller is loaded again, and the wet edge worked. This involves rolling the initial follow-up Row just beside the previous edge, (2-3" away) and then on the next up or down stroke following, you roll over both edges then immediately move on.

The issue I see in rolling is that to do a really effective job takes a developed skill, or at minimum a lot of practice (read: trial & error) It's actually more akin to being a Art Form at this level of trying for perfection.

Spraying is more mechanical as we advocate it. Duster Coats applied with rapidity and considerable overlap do not often result in gross errors.

Rolling on thin paint "Very Heavily?" No...don't go there. Just make sure your roller stays wet and that you do not spread paint out too sparsely and then work it too much. From your description, the marks you have are more like "Roller streaks" than "Roller Marks" because they are slighter, with less a "raised edge", and therein they cover up a bit more with each subsequent layer. So don't sand if you try to finish the screen with what you have left.. Sand only if you decide to mix more paint, and then....sand down at least 2 layers.

Or decide to spray...then you also sand down 2 layers or so then Dust away.

Hello everyone i am a newbie here..I was on another forum trying to get suggestions for a good screen and it was suggested to try Maxxmudd..I have been reading through this thread and i am getting too confused. Just a little background I have built a new twin garage separate from the house. The space above I have wired it for a ceiling mount projector with hdmi and also for surround sound. It will not just be cinema room i hope it will be dual purpose with a bar The ceiling height is 7'9" and I have dropped the wires 11' from the wall.
There are so many Projectors home cinema systems and screens out there it is mind boggling.
I seem to have settled on the Epson 6900 projector ( hope I am right)
i am leaning towards the Maxxmudd system but i have a few questions
1.. I read somewhere that someone used MDF can this be used...Or what else can be used?
2. My avatar is a pic of some of the room..I will be able to control the light so what Maxxmudd should i use?
3. I live in Ireland has anyone on this side of the pond purchased these products in a store here or where could i find them..Or has anyone decided to sell it already to paint straight on.:-) ...
Thanks

Hi, everyone after reading the differ. with 2.35 or 16.9 I think I'll go with 16.9 for the image size and my projector will be hd 33 no special lens. My question best roll on method for drywall 130" 16.9 with dark wine walls and black front wall. Thanks anyone

Any tips on cleaning a MaxxMudd screen?

Damp cloth? Something else?

... Altan

What are you trying to clean off? Dust? A smudge? Some little Cretin's P&J fingerprints? Beer Splatter?

Crayon or Magic Marker?

I actually had someone ask me how they could clean off a scratch once.

More in the dust category. There are some little dust-like black threads from the velvet here and there...

Probably just wipe it with a clean cloth... but thought I'd check.

Use a Dusting Wand of some type, sprayed with a anti-static assist. Or slap the screen gently with a soft, lint free cloth.

"Wiping" should be reserved for actually removing a stubborn spot that is actually sticking to the surface.

Thanks!

OK Mississippi Man ... I ended up using my last bit of paint and improved my situation but still have some spots. You honestly can only see them during sports broadcasts like baseball where you have a solid color on the screen in motion. But frankly it's enough to annoy the hell out of me. I wonder if I didn't screw up the surface by sanding too hard between coats as well.

SOOOO - If I go to spray - my question is this. My screen paint is directly on the wall. Can I really spray properly onto the wall without screwing up the whole basement? I'm tempted just to throw a can of flat silverscreen on top of this to "fix it" but I know it won't be what I want.

So if you can tell me if it is possible to spray the maxx-mudd, I may order the ingredients, mix the paint and spray a coat or two to see if that will fix my roller marks. Your thoughts?

Thanks so much for all your help over the years.....

I would be remiss to tell you anything but the truth, and the truth is..........hell, I do it all the Time! Repeatedly! And lemmie tell ya, I don't like to have to do any more work than I have to, spend any more cash than absolutely necessary, and I demand that my end result be optimally suited for the Circumstances at hand.
Put better still, more Bang for the Buck and Efforts expended than one could reasonably expect.

Of course there are the minimal requirements that exist from the start, and they can be compounded if any mistake-oriented recouping is required, but short of a Fire, or a crazy person taking a Sledge to the wall, t'ain't nuthin' we can't handle easily.

Masking for painting? A veritable snap! (I've dome Beverly Hills and Rancho Santa Fe projects amid ridiculously valuable furniture. Solution? Copious amounts of .7 mil 9' x 12 Plastic $1.99 ea.), Thumbtacks, and some creativity.

It's actually fun, and afterwards, being able to just wad up a room fun of Plastic into a small enough size to put in a Grocery Bag ? Priceless..


BTW, given a choice, every screen I would do (...save a Mirrored Light Fusion ) would be a effectively smoothed and prepped Wall.


Hey! Your gonna be my 11,000th Post! Thanks for giving me an excuse to post !!!

Don't make me waste it !!!!!

I use a dry NEW microfiber and lightly wipe the surface once a year or so. I buy the microfiber rags from Wally Mart. They are relatively cheap and I can wash them over and over again, and use them for other things.

FYI...I have the original RS-MAXXMUDD on my screen for the last 6 years! Still the best screen I have ever seen! ***patting self on the back***

Thanks guys, for this. quick question that I couldn't find via search.

is there a cradle to the grave bullet point list for applying this stuff as a screen paint that I'm missing somewhere?


all the way from wall prep to straining to base coats to spaying?


just want to make sure I get this one right!


thanks!

Cradle to the Grave? Well...Drag me to hell.

........and back.

There have been many such tutorials posted in the past, complete with Images...even videos. After a time though (...and there has been a lot of time flowing by....) they tend to recede into the depths of the Thread listings. (...recently I found a post by me from early 2003 that was all about how to Paint a Screen onto a Wall with a Roller...) Yes...I suppose that there is a need for a dedicated Thread...perhaps one that might garner "Sticky Status"...and yes...I've intended to compose such a missive for a while. The hold up? well...such a thing must be composed well and with the idea that it must be kept up to date. But as time goes by, and people's circumstances and needs change, it's just been easier to help people as they request for such.

Another thing I've noticed over the years is that no matter how detailed and explicit instructions are, if left wholly to their own devices, even the most enthusiastic, well intentioned Individuals often miss...misread or misinterpret something. Then there's hell to pay.

But going back to the request, in the end it's all about just getting down to it. I'm always tellin' people to just up 'n "Get'ter Dun"! What's sauce for the Goose......

I share that outlook, so don't wait until I get a'round2it.....author your own thread...post your queries...and who knows but while I'm guiding you along I might be able to start the composition.

Hi, M. Mann ,finally got all the stuff for 130" drywall . I going to roll it on using to RSM LL 2.1. My question is the water mix and the proper amount for 130 ' . ok here goes 1. prime with kilz 2 then sand then prime then sand. Once dry then paint on the RSM LL . is that correct.

Also if I read correctly is it 1/4 nap for primer, and 3/16 for RSM LL mix rolling on ?
Thanks in advance

So this is how you Roll, eh? Well Roll on Brother.

The mix should be just fine wit the amount of water that is initially prescribed within the mix. Only when spraying is additional dilution usually called for.

2 coats of Primer, both lightly sanded is correct. And you might have to sand between the 2nd and a 3rd coat of RS-MaxxMuss LL as well dependent on your rolling rechnique.

My 1st question is this: Will the amount of RS-MM LL generated by the recipe be adequate for a 130' diagonal screen, whose future owner is rolling on a absolute minimum of 2 coats, but most likely will require 3. Each vertical row almost demands a freshly loaded roller, because you absolutely have to keep a "Wet Edge" on the leading side (and the Top or Bottom) of each prior Row to come back onto when resuming. You do NOT try to ecck out the last vestige of paint in the roller onto the wall before reloading.

Yes...a 3/16" "Fabric" Roller is required for the Finish paint. A GOOD one...Lint Free. And the Paint Tray should be a metal or plastic one that does NOT have the Bumps or pronounced Channeling ridges that some do. When your using a low nap roller, the pattern of such things can transfer onto the painted surface, and there you go....having to work the paint more that desired.

The more your work the paint (...and the harder you seem to have to press on the roller to smooth thing out...) the more likely you are to get roller marks. Using very smooth, long, "wet" strokes will always help prevent such nastiness. Of course this does not mean you want to put up a dripping, heavily loaded roller....just a fully loaded, saturated one that doesn't have paint dripping or sliding off it.

Be sure your Roller Wand is also a good one, one that has ball bearings and spins very easily. That is essential as well so as to avoid "sliding".

In the end, rolling on any "High Contrast" paint (...all darker colors...) requires care in using proper rolling technique. RS-MaxxMudd LL isn't all that dark...actually it's very light in a White-ish Silvery hue, but it does enhance contrast, and it is going to be used to create a Screen that will be continually "stared at", so you simply cannot afford to have any vertical lines left from roller edges pop up during brightly lit content.

Lastly, roll with a light touch. Pressing down hard or unevenly at all is fraught with danger. Not only will it cause potential roller marks....but if you create too smooth (ie: Flattened Out) and condensed a surface, a enhanced Glossiness could occur that would allow the metallic particles to get arrayed in a Flattened manner, flat side to the projector.

I know I seem to be making a big issue about this rolling business, but ever since the metallic content went up precipitously, issues such as the above simply have to be addressed. Just use a careful "Eye" and correct any unevenness while the paint is still wet. Consider & take each row as being a finished piece of work, and build the next row right on top it's leading wet edge.

Good luck. Get'ter Dun !

GREATTTTTTT!!!!!! Thanks a million. M.Man I begin on Wed. or Fri this week and will post pictures when I'm done.

M. Man I need some help on this I sanded the drywall and prime with two coats I still see the ridges were the mudding was done . What king of sanding can I do to get a smooth drywall surface. . Anyone else advice will also be thankfull.

Sanding alone may not accomplish what needs to be done. A more affective solutions is to spot apply additional drywall compound to level out areas that are raised above the overall surface. Basically skim over the surface with your mud knife so that mud is deposited only in the lower lying areas. .

Then you have to prime again. I would usually apply primer only to the fresh drywall mud first, then after that spot drys apply a full coat of primer over the entire surface to be certain that everything will be evenly prime and have the same surface texture.

Sand lighty and concentrate on feathering the outside edges of any freshly mudded this area

Thanks, I'll try that