The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 15

Job complete that method work just great ,...M. man your a paint Expert for sure. Thanks TWO million.:D:)

M. Man , I found a 3/16 (lint free) roller but it's a foam roller. I also have a 3/16 nap roller but it is NOT lint free. Which one should I use. Also do I apply 2-3 coats of the final mix.? Thanks

The only advice that I feel good about giving would be the 2 items,
Do not use a foam roller
Spend a little bit extra necessary to get a good quality lint free roller

How well your final result will be turning out will be entirely dependent upon how good of a job you do rolling your last 2 coats on

Thanks. I'll order one . Have a great day

M. Man, just got finish with applying 3 coats of the rsmud mix LL to the drywall. Doses it supose to shine or look white or more silver. ?

RS-MM LL looks like a very light Silvery-White surface. Freshly painted, it will look slightly glossy, but the surface goes "Flat" once dried. If it remains glossy after drying, then your putting on too much paint ....not "Dusting". Oh yeah....your Rolling, aren't you? Well rolling always produces a more shiny surface while the paint is drying. That is why RS-MM LL is the only advanced formula we suggest "CAN" be rolled. Even then, rolling it will always produce a shinier surface than applying such a paint via spraying. The roller tends to press everything down into a tighter, more reflective coating than spraying does.

Give it at least 4-6 hours so that it is completely dry to the touch (....does not feel "cool"...) then report back.

Thanks,again. your're the DIY screen KINGf for sure:)

Well thanks for that. I'm sure there are a few who might dispute that....even contemplate some Regicide

I don't lay claim to such though, I'm satisfied to be considered a good resource for DIY'ers.
You cannot fall far if you keep your feet firmly planted on the ground.

rust-oleum Metallic Accents seems impossible to get!
at best it would be 2 weeks except a 5 day shipping ( no expidited i guess) at amazonsupply.
ganahl lumber does stock this but might have to special order the pearl. .

it can get pricey.

micheals doesn't seem to stock the ceramcoat anymore. blick doesn't either. surprisingly, joanne fabric has it , a lot of stores IN STOCK! about half the stores stocked a 2 oz bottle or about $1.50 each, and there is always a 20-50% discount ( use the joanne app on your smartphone ) .

hope that helps with supplies in a pinch

Ha!

I have 4 -32 oz jars of the Rustoleum Pearl - at least 4 -8 oz. bottles of the Delta Silver (...so very rare...) - 8 - 8 oz jars of the Liquitex Silver - and the entire remaining inventory of the Memphis based Michael's stores appropriate types of Liquitex Basics Red/Geen/Blue/Yellow/Gold. (...enough of the latter items to make about 1.5 gallons of Colorant. )

When I see 'em on Sale...and sometimes even if their not on sale, I stock up.

But I'm a bit of a Power User, don'tcha know.

Even so, it's a real coup to know that JoAnns has online inventory of both the Delta Ceramcoat Silver Metallic "AND" the Pearl Finish !!!!! (...albeit in 2 oz Bottles... ) Even so, the $1.49 ea. price is low, and if any Coupon is available that takes it down a notch or two further....that is a "Cool Beans" kinda opportunity.

I went to JoAnns Online http://www.joann.com/ceramcoat-gleams-acrylic-paint-2oz-many-colors/prd9408/
......................................and put 30 -2 oz. bottles of the DELTA CERAMCOAT SILVER and 30 -2 oz. bottles of the DELTA CERAMCOAT PEARL into my Cart and got all the way to the "Purchase Now" button, so I know they have a good deal of both in stock.

Grab 'em up! A'fore someone else, some nasty 'ol greedy bass-turd does.

richroiz, your a real gem for locating the Delta Paints, and it will be appreciated by many in short order. Good Man!

Check your local Joannes found 8 oz bottles of delta cream coat metallic silver

Now that's a find. Did you snag 'em all up?

With the 2 i found and the rest i found i have enough for three sets of the recipee.

Then you might be the Man to reach out for in desperation.

Hi, everyone on post. I've decided to update the entire home theater after the screen turn out really nice ,Thank MissMan:), will keep you postedwhen I'm done. Again thanks everyone. This is GREAT WEB SITE:D

Just a quick question do you paint a black border around the screen after painted?

While some might do that on occasion, I never do. All of my screen borders consist of 3.25 inch MDF baseboard wrapped in that black velvet.

There is no paint, black or otherwise, that can remotely perform the same task or look remotely as good as black velvet.

End of discussion on that matter.

OK. Let me state that I am the poster child for OCD. So, I have read myself to the point of bleeding eyeballs (have three windows open on the 3 different maxxmudd threads right now) all over the net on several different forums on making a mix for DIY screen.

Anyway I have just a few questions so I can get my head wrapped around this. Because, for now I am confused as hell! Now, please bear with me as I am sure these questions will be stupid, but, believe me, for all the reading I have done, I am just at a loss on the following points:


1. Is the first post updated like a Wiki post (it doesn't say, "last updated on ....." so I am not sure) and therefore has the latest info on the ingredients list?? The reason I ask regards all the later posts in the thread that talk about hard to find or impossible to find or substitute ingredients.

B. (Really stupid question) Is the water that is listed in the ingredients part of the recipe to be mixed with everything else?? I have seen posts where the water is coupled with references to rinsing utensils or containers or something that now my brain can no longer absorb.

Third. I saw the question asked, but missed the answer. Is the $60ish sprayer sufficient for this application?

4. I have an entry level PJ (Optpma hd20) that is not in a great HT environment or in a basement. I have some ambient light, but believe a lot of my viewing will be at night any way. I suspect I will be playing with 120" or 136" diagonal from ~ 17ft. throw. Any recommendations on which formulation to use?

BTW, Thanks in advance!

Well hell! I might as well post all my questions. My wife has done all of the painting (including using a sprayer). Not sure that I have ever painted anything that actually had to look like something! Therefore, when I look at all the ingredients, it doesn't seem like much. I gathered from the reading that I will likely do 2-3 coats. At say 136", approx. how many times will I have to multiply the measure of ea. ingredient for each coat?


The walls were all finished with a "slick finish" and have no texture. They are presently painted a maroon (kinda dark) color. I'm thinking (based on reading here) a couple coats of primer/base paint. Any direct recommendation on color (white or gray)?

Again thanks!

Hello Scooterp7,

Hey! You've been around the Forum block long enough to know that prefacing questions with the comment "...bear with me as I am sure these questions will be stupid...." scares the hell out of people and tends to shut them off. I had to take a Pill and a nap before I responded.

Actually what has happened is that you have read but have not absorbed ( gleaned & compared info ) The answers to every question asked are on the Threads....just scattered about as references to questions asked along the way.

Usually, the first post on each thread has the current crop of information. When in doubt though....always ask. The stupidest questions are the ones you didn't think you needed to ask that come back later to haunt your efforts.

The water amounts are used to rinse the utensils used to measure out the small amounts of Primaries, and to rinse out the containers(tubes) the reflective paint comes in. Usually the utensils are rinsed in a cup of water and the rinse water then added to the Colorant mix. Water squirted into Paint tubes is shaken within and then the remaining diluted paint is added to that which came out easily. All water listed in the Mix is utilized...how you use it is the only question to be answered by the user.

Yes.... but the $35.00 ish Graco works just as well...and for the difference in price one can also order a finer tip needle (1.5 mm) to use and still come in at /under $60.00

RS-maxxMudd Standard

You don't. The amount of paint the listed ingredients make up is more than sufficient for the biggest sized screen you mentioned.

.............and you will be doing what is called "Duster Coats"...and that means 5-6 very lightly and rapidly applied coatings that build up eventually to create the surface desired.

Always White. 2 Coats...sand lightly...3rd coat for a perfect sub-surface prep.

He'll be baaaaack.

Hi I've read through this thread and I want to be sure about where to purchase the following from

16 oz Liquitex Basics Silver => can be bought from joannes?
16 oz Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl =>joannes
10 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat => replaced by the sherman williams paint?

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish => home depot item

Thanks

Added in some responses for you in bold.

Thanks for the help. One more thing. What are the delta products for? I did see those at joann but didn't know what they were for.

Pretty sure the Delta products were replaced in the current formula. The first post in this thread is the most up to date formula, so if you obtain all of those you're set.

I have a few last questions before I roll on RS-MaxxMudd LL 2.1. I have a painted wall and have taped off my screen section, sanded and applied 2 coats of Sherwin Williams ProClassic smooth enamel. The steps I had planned were;

1. Light sand with 180 grit
2. Finish sand with 330 grit.
3. Apply another layer of Sherwin Williams ProClassic smooth enamel
4. Roll on MM LL. (2 coats)

My questions are;

1. The Sherwin Williams ProClassic smooth enamel is quite thick and has some definite texture to it on the wall. Should I thin the last coat down with a bit of water to have it go on more smooth??
2. Should I sand with the 330 after my step 3??
3. Am I correct in assuming that MM LL is a thinner paint than the Sherwin Williams and will go on smoother??
4. How long should I wait in between coats of MM?? I waited about 2 hours in between SW base coats.
5. No sanding in between MM coats right??

I was projecting on a dark grey flat wall for a couple of weeks until I determined the screen size I wanted. I can't get over the difference with just the SW Proclassic. I am looking forward to the MM.

Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tony

Tony,

You should be using 3/16" Nap "Best Quality" Roller Covers, (w/a very free rolling Wand...). Those fine Nap Roller Covers are for "Fine Finishes" and being such, the paint (any paint) you use should be thin enough to go onto the roller evenly, and apply very smoothly. Thin the SW with about 20% water to paint volume.

With the thicker SW paint, it would have been better to wait at least 4+ hours between coats. Applying paint too soon over a previous coat is the most sure way to develop texture such as "Orange Peel". Never rush. A previous coat should feel "room Temperature"....never "Cool" to the touch.

Do a really effective job at sanding down the existing texture. Don't worry so much about using the 330 Grit (...that is better used when sanding a "Finish Coat" when needed...).....sand using the 180 Grit unitil the surface is very smooth, apply a thinned coat of SW....then sand it using the 330.

The RS-MaxxMudd LL should be good to go as is. No sanding should be required if the base coat before is very smooth.

Lastly, use only a light pressure rolling. The paint and the roller should roll on freely with just gentle pressure.

Good luck!

I'm using the graco 2900/3900 and priming with bullseye 123, does this need to be diluted? I tried a test spray and had the flow rate at maximum but it came out kind of light. I tried up close, further back no difference. If it does, do I just add tap water?

Dilute the primer with 20% water to Paint volume, mix thoroughly, "STRAIN" and try again.

Thanks, I finished my second coat yesterday and tried out the projector. What I noticed on bright, moving backgrounds in movies, usually white, were some dark cloudy areas near the center of the wall. Are these just areas that need to be sanded down?

EDIT: Yeah definitely some kinda texture
Edited by Maligx - 11/1/12 at 4:56pm