The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 3

Ugh. Not sure how I missed the "don't use the drain cup". I sprayed 6-8 coats of thinned Bullseye primer to get a feel for the sprayer. Those always seemed too thin, now I realize I could have tried them a lot less thinned. Are you saying that the LL mix can be sprayed as-is, or close to as-is?

Any way to save this mix without having to buy everything over again?

I have 12oz of the Rustoleum Metallic Accents and plenty of the Minwax. I need to pick up more of the Liquitex Basics (both colors). I was thinking of making a new, slightly smaller batch based off the 12oz of Rustoleum. I need to calculate the amounts for the others but given that the original recipe mixed up nearly a 1/2 gallon, I think I'll have enough even with the smaller batch.

Thanks for the help.

These are rough calculations but this is what I was thinking for a smaller batch. Let me know if I'm way off on this.

RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2 (small batch)
(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)

12 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
6 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
8 oz. Liquitex Basics Titanium White

10 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
10 oz. distilled/tap water**

If that looks good to you, then I'll pick up some Liquitex Basics Silver and Titanium White today.

KHeon,

Hold up. It has yet to be determined that you cannot effectively use the existing mix "as is".

One thing you have not related...what are you using as a substrate?

Whatever it is, it seems very obvious that since your first coat did not run, that the second was applied at a slower speed / closer distance. So go back to the future here.

If you first wait until those runs dry, everything becomes a bit more difficult. (...sheesh...I wish I could always be available in real time...) Runs are ALWAYS best wiped and/or blotted off immediately. No matter what else, it's gonna be easier to correct a blemish such as a run if the majority of paint is reduced, rather than allowed to dry and then have to be scraped or sanded down.

Listen very carefully....screens such as the one your making depend on having smooth featureless surfaces. Heed these points.

1. Err by applying too little paint....never "Too Much". You can always add another coat, but as your going to find out, removing is far more difficult.

2. NEVER sand any finish coat for ANY reason except error correction. If you spray properly, it's simply not needed.

3. Remember that very light hued paints such as RS-MM LL that go on in very light coats must be built up before you really see a big difference when they go over a white surface. They are light colored for a couple of reasons. Gain, and the reduction of visible graininess that can be present with darker paints that contain a heavy concentration of reflective material. As such, it take until the 2nd/3rd coat when doing "Dusters" before you really will see a noticeable difference.

4. Be patient. Apply a Duster, then wait until it no longer just feels dry (not just "non-tacky)" but actually stops feeling "cool".

5. Judge your screen as being "done" when the finish looks completely uniform. There should be no splotchy-ness or shading.

6. If you want to salvage a surface that has many multiple runs, you have to wipe it down with a semi-damp sanding sponge "AFTER" you have dry sanded the individual runs down to smooth. Then, after using a regular damp sponge to clean the surface...re-prime it. Then examine for any obvious defects. Spray anew.

OK...you have a PM waiting for you. Avail yourself of it.

MMan

Substrate is 1/2" MDF, sealed initially with oil based Kilz (both sides and all edges). Two coats on the front before I switched to Bullseye.

Well at least it will stand up to sanding, and the amount of primer you've applied bodes well for being able to recoup.

How big is your screen?

PS, ...after 8:45 Central I'll be available only via Cell.

Screen size is 100". I could go bigger on the wall I have but I want a nice 3.5" border around it so I'm willing to sacrifice a tiny bit of size for aesthetics.

Well under those circumstances, even if you must aggressively remove everything down to the original Kilz-2, you haven't got all that much to worry about.

The object will be to get the surface virtually Glass smooth again. You could do that simply by Dry Sanding with a medium Sanding Sponge ( get a 3" x 8" Norton from HD ) using first a spot sanding technique on the blemishes, then a "sweep-sanding" technique across the entire surface. Vertical strokes that encompass the height of the screen...about 3 up...3 down, then move over 2/3rds the length of the sponge and repeat...on until you have gone across the entire surface.

Then do it again...and again...until under a bright light, directed from the side across the surface, reveals a uniform and blemish free surface.

If you can accomplish that, then re-prime with the Bullseye, you should be good to go with the remaining paint.

BTW....personally I suggest sticking with the existing paint and doing multiple Dusters from 14" away. With a 100" screen, each coat should be done in or under 35-40 seconds, even with the required 70% overlap. DO NOT second guess coverage. Just coat the surface as instructed and get the 'ell away from it. The eventual build up will present you with the results you desire

Last note.

If the MDF has a drop off at the edges, get some extra pieces and ring the edges with them so as you cross over any edge (Top/Bottom/Sides) with the spray pattern, the spray does not encounter a drop-off. If it does, the edges will not receive a uniform amount of paint due to "vortex ing". (...a swirling of air that prevents paint from laying down smoothly.

pb_maxxx: I wasn't proposing adding my small batch mix to my current mix, but rather starting over with a smaller batch using what I have left of the Rustoleum.

MississippiMan: Thanks for the PM. I won't be able to look at this until tomorrow. What timezone are you in?

Perfect. I'll pick those up on my way home tonight. I will never forget this lesson though. Thank you both for your assistance. I have a lot of sanding to do tomorrow it would appear.

On the sanding front, is it possible to use a palm or orbital sander with a fine grit sandpaper or am I really stuck with a sanding sponge?

Screen almost sanded down to baby butt smooth. Started with 150 grit on the palm sander followed by 220 grit on my random orbital sander (on high). This took down all the excess paint and left the surface pretty smooth to the touch. I then took an extra fine sanding sponge and called as best as I could to MM's recommendation. Heading out to HD now to get a 3x8 sanding sponge to wrap things up.

To the touch it's very smooth but from the side I can still see what looks likes and peaks and valleys. Is this sufficient for priming?

One more question. When I see suggestions to wet sand, what exactly does that entail? Sanding with a wet (water) sponge or sanding the paint before it is completely dry?

It took all day but I have the screen back to better then it was before I started with the RS-MM LL last time. Severely cut back on the thinning of Bullseye and that made a huge difference. Three good duster coats of primer today. Calling it a day, will start with the real paint tomorrow.

Thank you both for your assistance.

Eight duster coats applied today. Very pleased with the results and anxious to get this mounted in my theater room. Thanks once again.

Awesome info! is there any approximate Gain for these mixes? I was told I need a high gain screen for my crt. I will be building a curved screen 2.35 to 1 and a little over 8ft wide. I was told a high gain would help the projector out and if I used a curved screen it would help with the hot spotting.. thanks

Well you can space the curved screen requirement altogether.

Among the highest gain DIY Mixes, RS-MaxxMudd LL v2.1 (Low Lumens) comes in at 1.4+. It can be rolled or sprayed, however spraying creates by far the best surface, devoid of potential rolling defects. The dispersion characteristocs of RS-MM LL v.2.1 are very good, with a viewing cone area in excess of a 140 degree arch. With that wide of a dispersion of the reflected light, hot spotting is...and will never be an issue. Especially when using a CRT PJ.

Really, your onto a good solution here. Get'ter dun!

awesome thanks!

Sawright.....

just making sure this is the one you were talking about correct?

RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2
(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
8 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Liquitex Basics Titanium White

15 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
15 oz. distilled/tap water**

That's actually v2.1 It's not labeled as being such (...for some reason PB did not bother to do so...) but any mix that contains the change-up to the Rustoleum is regarded as being a v2.1 mix.

....but that's also just fine. However v2.0 is gonna be just fine too iffin' ya have any trouble finding or waiting to receive the Rustoleum MA

ok so where is the version 2? and which one will be easier to apply (if either) and which will be better? also any tips on spraying? I was figuring a lot of really light coats..

v2 was changed to address the lack of availability of the Delta Ceramcoat White Pearl. If you can locate enough of some of that at Michaels or a Hobby Lobby, simply substitute it for the RMA in the same amounts as listed in the v2.1 listing

Thx if version 2.1 works just as well then I think I will go with that since i can get it here
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Met.../dp/B003EELN1Y
any links to the other supplies? just want to make sure I get the correct ones.

thanks for the help it is much appreciated!

Home Depot and Michaels should be able to round out your sources for all the other needed supplies.

... but, pb_maxxx or MM, could you provide an approximate amount of sq. ft. coverage for the mixture listed in post #1?

I realize that there will be variations based on application method, coat thickness, etc., but it would be sweet to have an idea of how much of the different components one has to buy, especially if shipping is needed.

Thanks!

At 155" diagonal, if sprayed correctly over a well prepped white surface, the almost-Gallon you'll have will be enough...with some little bit left over for any needed touch ups later should they be necessary.