Official Samsung UNXXD8000 Owners' Thread - Page 203

Intellis here...Finally purchased this set 5 days ago, after weeks of research. So far I like it. My question comes in on the "Auto Motion Plus", why does it seems to appear that it makes my pq look better? I know it is suppose to be used on "fast action" movie or sports scenes, but it makes my regular shows look better...like NCIS and movies that are being broadcast by other stations. It gives off the "soap opera" effect, but I kinda like it. Can anyone explain if the automotion increases the picture quality?

Vimeo working today.

After having my H301 un60d8000 for about a week I may have found a problem...

With the HDMI Black Level set to low I get an amazing image with no uniformity issues, blacks look pretty much black. BUT, I lose all low light detail. I watched Super 8 last night and couldn't make out half the movie because it appears to clip all detail below a certain threshold (I may be explaining this wrong).

With HDMI Black Level set to normal I can see all of the low light detail but the entire screen looks washed out and there are MAJOR screen uniformity issues and clouding. The screen is essentially unusable in this mode but I can at least see all of the detail.

I've used a spyder 3 pro to calibrate the screen (this is all run through a PC via HDMI) using both settings and even with calibration a setting of normal just looks terrible. Is there a way to bring back the low light detail on the low setting? If not do I just have a bad panel that the low setting was disguising? I can exchange it through amazon but I'd rather not unless there really is a problem. Here are a couple of images to show you the difference:

Low


Normal

Low=16-235, Normal=0-255 brightness range (used by PCs). The "normal" option should be disabled with most cableTV, satellite, bluray, and DVD set top boxes. If this option is greyed out for you, then regardless of what you see, the setting IS low.

"Low" is what you're supposed to use for cableTV, satTV, bluray, and DVD set top boxes which output at 16-235 brightness range.

You should be able to adjust your brightness, contrast, and white balance to see most of the detail you see when you switch the setting to "normal". Believe it or not, on a perfectly calibrated TV, you're not supposed to see some of that detail; as there is such a thing as "blacker than black" and "whiter than white" detail. Some content providers tend to record information which peak beyond the normal brightness range in order to avoid brightness level clipping.

Having said that, just set your TV to "Low" and just use a bluray/DVD calibration disc to adjust the brightness range of your TV. Or, you could just "eyeball" it and select the color settings; especially brightness and contrast to what looks best to you; however, if you're going to eyeball it, you need to use various different types of content to get the best average setting. Personally, I just used the calibration settings I posted several pages back. Mine currently is almost identical to that; however, since I'm using a PC as my source, I had to set HDMI = Normal with a brightness much lower than what was mentioned.

As far as clouding/uniformity goes, that's caused by having poor calibration settings. You should be able to have full detail with super deep blacks and no clouding. The settings related to the LEDs can drastically affect how the picture looks.

What is your video card set to? YcBr or Full RBG? I run my media center in full RGB (ATI Video card) and I see my HDMI setting to full rather then auto which puts the TV in full RBG 10bit as well (on my new Sony), I used to do the same on my Samsung althought I cant remember if the setting you guys are referring to above is the same.

I simply use the media center TV calibration videos for brightness (moving X) to adjust after I change the setting

There is a setting for Nvidia cards (ATI should be the same) where I tell it what mode to playback video. I manually set mine to 0-255; although, I have a feeling that's what it defaults to anyway when not set.

This setting tells the video card to convert all ycbcr video content (dvd, bluray, etc) to the PC's native RGB colorspace (0-255) that the windows desktop also resides... so everything that ultimately outputs from the PC will be RGB 0-255. This is why I have my TV set to HDMI="Normal" (0-255).

Some people wonder why not just set the PC to ycbcr native color space instead of RGB (and changing the TV to HDMI="low"); that way video doesnt have to be converted to 0-255. The reason for this (and you may already know this) that this would adversely affect the Windows desktop colorspace; so, everything other than DVD, Bluray, TV content such as digital pictures, general PC graphics/games will have their brightness from 0-16 and 235-255 clipped off.

So, having videos convert to RGB native PC colorspace, you get the full range in brightness in both worlds. Some people say when the video card converts ycbcr to RGB, there might be a possibility for scaling errors/artifacts; however, I think that's purely from an academic aspect; not something that can be seen in reality.

MKANET and moshster thanks for the replies! I set my color space to RGB manually as well as full 0-255 (I think that was the default) and the whole image is much brighter, especially the dark areas. The over all screen is still a bit washed out but it's not nearly as bad as it was. Watching the tunnel scene in super 8 was bearable, I was actually able to see the tunnel this time. Re-calibrating with my spyder 3 made the colors passable as well though they don't pop like they used to. I think the panel may be OK and I just need to fiddle with the calibration. I plan on having it professionally calibrated soon I just didn't want to spend the money if it was a bad panel. The uniformity issues are also much reduced though blacks are quite as deep as the used to be.

MKANET, setting the tv by your settings was the first thing I did, it GREATLY improved the image. I think my next step is an ISF calibration, the spyder helps but I think a professional might get a better image out of the thing.

I should mention that I've left hdmi black to low as normal still washes everything out.

What do you have your brightness level set on your TV? I have mine set to 21. This is the correct value for my TV/PC both set at 0-255.

PS: One more thing, I'm not sure what software youre using to playback your videos; but, some have a separate adjustment for their video output. For example, if youre using "LAV Video" directshow decoder, it has an option to set PC "0-255", native, TV "16-235".

I've tried putting the grey test image on a USB stick but the image is not showing up. I formated the stick and still nothing. I change the file extension to jpg and I see the image now but when I try to view it, it says the file is not supported.

Any suggestions?

Try opening in a image editor and actually saving it as a JPG not just renaming it

Sorry about that, I uploaded it from my iPhone, it always changes the file type to png or something like that, just change the file to a jpg and it should work.

I have it set to 30 which is still too bright, I've got the same screen uniformity issues just not to the same degree. I'll try dropping it down into the 20's to see how that works. At 30 I start losing low level detail again so I'm not sure how much further I can go. Right now for most of my high def files I use powerdvd 11 as it plays 3d files quite nicely. Alternatively I use windows media player or vlc.

I never had these issues with my plasma so thanks for the help, I doubt I ever would have stumbled upon the right options.

I think the advice to "eyeball" it isn't a good idea for you; especially if you're not sure what the picture bright "should" be.

I think you need either a Video Essential or Avia color calibration disc. Both discs have a similar test pattern like the picture below where you would need to start reducing your brightness setting on the TV (starting from 30 if HDMI=normal) until your eyes can no longer tell the different between the "4% below black" bar aka "blacker than black pluge" and the entire background. The blacker than black should almost be visible (when sitting directly in front/middle of the TV).



Unfortunately, to do this the right way, you need to access this calibration screen while the video is playing back on your computer (presuming you have already made the 0-255 setting already in your ATI/Nvidia card's setting). Unfortunately, it's not the same as just displaying this calibration screenshot in a picture viewer on your computer and hope it does the same.

A lot of people make the mistake of "pumping up" their displays with the wrong settings; trying to see detail that's not meant to be seen; which includes uniformity issues in the screen.

BTW, on a slightly unrelated topic... (and not meant for anyone specific). But, I do have to get this off my chest. I'm actually strongly against the idea of using "pictures of" the grey screen image that's being passed around on the forum to determine if it's a defective LCD panel or not.. Most cameras have internal video processing to detect low brightness images such as a dark grey screen; then, digitally exaggerating details, contrast, brightness, gamma level, etc; which adds unwanted distortion. The best uniformity test is to just watch normal TV or movies to see if they interfere with your viewing experience. If your calibration settings are "correct"; and, you still see uniformity issues pretty often, then its definitely a good idea to get the panel/TV replaced.

I just got a UN60D8000 TV and I have a really serious banding issue, I've gone through the pics in this thread and none seem to be as bad as mine.

While most of the banding issues I've seen here seem to fade and are more spread out, my TV has a very distinct horizontal band going across the middle of the screen.

It almost seems like it slowly started appearing because I don't remember seeing it when I first got the TV. Or maybe I was just exited for my new toy.

I want to take it back to the store but I'm thinking maybe to deal with Samsung directly and maybe get something with a more recent manufacture date.

I got mine on Black Friday and it has a Manufacture date of 8-31-2011.

What do you guys think, back to the store or contact Samsung directly?


See my problem:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8049080@N03/6517297255/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8049080@N03/6517297375/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8049080@N03/6517297637/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8049080@N03/6517297431/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8049080@N03/6517297793/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8049080@N03/6517298019/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8049080@N03/6517298173/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8049080@N03/6517298259/

just pulled the trigger on this via amazon (sold through paul's). hopefully it turns out good

^^

That is awful. I'd take it back to the store and start fresh. I always fear dealing with the manufacturer will remove the eligibility to get a refund.

Samsung refund you if need be. I've been dealing with them & the lady I spoke to was very helpful & nice. Normally they work on a 3 repair then a new TV but I had 2 repairs and now I'm awaiting a new TV. If this one is bad I'll be asking them for a refund, hope it doesn't come to that.

Although, it looks like the brightness is not set right, no matter what, that screen is defective. Sorry for the bad news.

Mines get delivered tomorrow anytime from 8-12.

I have purchase one of the 46" ones, now I have found a better deal I can still return the one I got...
The one that I am getting ready to buy says "silver" model?... I have no idea if the one I currently own is the "silver" model.

Is the Silver Model the current and latest model?

THANKS

It's the only model for the UNXXD8000 series.

I bougth the 55" last weekend, I just needed to tell you all

I was still trying to decide between this and the hx929, but then a huge discount plus a LN37D550 as a bundle was announced (here in Mexico). So Sammy won

Hey guys,

Can any of you give your optimal settings for gaming? I have the 55 inch D8000 and I usually just put have it in game mode, but the picture does suffer a bit.

I remember reading here, a while back, that one poster recommended not putting game mode on and changed some other settings. He was still able to get a great picture and the lag was minimal.

I don't play Gears of War 3 much, but that's how I'm essentially testing it. The quick reload bonus. Without game mode on, you have to hit the trigger a brief second before to time it right.

Anyways, thanks for any info you can give on your settings.

Hello good sir. First, thanks for posting so much helpful information in this forum. I've read most of this very long thread in the last few weeks, before and during my purchase and setup.

I got a UN46D8000 and it is Oct build, H302, from Amazon.

I used Spears & Munsil to do basic picture setup and am wavering about returning and playing "the panel lottery". I have some clouding in the lower right, minor banding, and a slightly perceptible horizontal line about 3/4 down the screen, only noticeable on gray images.

One thing of note, I came up with a brightness level MUCH MUCH lower than yours, I am using 27, anything higher and the issues listed above become very very noticeable, very washed out in right side of the screen.

I notice it mostly with only certain colors, usually gray. I used DeadPixelBuddy to throw different colors up on the screen, and here are my gray shots.

These pictures definitely EXAGERRATE the issue. I am also using a shade of gray that makes the issue stand out the most, taken from different distance and angles. It's really noticeable on screens like a Netflix or Roku home screen, just sometimes hard to know if it's the panel or the background, as they like to use gradients and lens flares to make it look more dynamic.

Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated, I'm hoping for input to decide if I should return or not.

Here are my basic settings for reference:
Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 94
Brightness: 27
Sharpness: 18
Color Tone: Warm1
Cinema Black: On

http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522144641/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522144853/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522144921/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522144997/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522145097/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522145205/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522145321/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522145471/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81003643@N00/6522145569/

Thanks for the info, I'll look into one of the two Video Essential or Avia discs. Right now I'm at a brightness of 26 with hdmi set to full. It does a good job with most media with just a tiny bit of clouding on solid light colors. I'm also going to schedule an isf calibrator to come out next week to see if I can get things dialed in just right.

I got H303 Nov 2011 build. One question I see 1 red pixel, I assume this is a dead pixel? So question, is this a common thing with LEDs? I can only see it if I'm right up to the TV but if i'm more than 3 feet away it's not noticable. I'm not sure if I need to complain about it or not.

i am in the market for a 3D panel, d8000 was on my list, but was wanting passive 3D glasses. any suggestions?


for the price you paid it should not have any dead/bad pixels! that would bug me and i would return it (unless they can fix it).

I've been reading and I found that it's a stuck pixel and there's probably a way to fix it. I'll see if I can fix it.

So I read about the first 150 pages of this thread over the past couple of days. It's been interesting to see all the back and forth about the 60 and 65 inch models never coming, the denial of QC and uniformity issues fading as more testimonies rolled in from new owners (all from the 20/20 perspective of hindsight).

The majority of the discussion and professional reviews were based around the 55 model. Has there been any proof or discussion of improvements in the 60 inch model in terms of uniformity, banding, etc?

Hey guys, is there any way to find panel number info on the unopened box or is it only on the TV itself? I'm looking at getting either a 55" D7000 or D8000 from a B&M (need delivery and haul away of my dead Mitsubishi 65" projection monster) -- should they able to tell me what panels they have in stock? Or can I tell before they unbox it so I can quickly refuse delivery if necessary?

I'm disturbed to see H301 panels still being sold/delivered and damned if I want spend $2,000 to play panel roulette. I want to know I'm getting an H303.