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Official Samsung UNXXD8000 Owners' Thread - Page 235

post #7021 of 8402
Hi guys. I'm new to this thread or at least I think I am. I looked over the last four pages early this morning as I had a 9 AM calibration scheduled for a UN46D8000. Like I said, I only went back four pages so maybe there has been a great deal of calibration info previously presented but I didn't take the time to search.

General impression: You guys have an excellent LCD display. The factory Movie mode is very close to Rec.709 standards as is. THX and ISF would be proud. I would hope that this applies to all D8000s. The Standard mode is a normal big box store set up, all bright, all blue, just crap.

The set was brand new and the electronics needed a hundred or more hours to settle in so I calibrated one HDMI input in Cal-Day so that he could switch back and forth and see what calibrated vs factory looks like. I'll go back in a couple months for a Day touch up, Cal-Night, and a 3D calibration.

The D8000 calibrates well despite the typical Samsung snafus, Red Push and half of the ten point grayscale/gamma controls being 10% off - eg. read 80% but adjust with 70%, etc. It would be such a pleasure if one of these years they didn't intentionally warp the color decoder to keep Caucasians from looking like Smurfs in the store modes.... Conversely, the Color Management System was damn near flawless.

Here is the Cal-Day calibration report. Any questions about what the numbers mean please ask. The bottom line is a very nice picture after kicking the decoder's butt as the last step. It is really too bad the video engineers and the marketing gents force this upon us.

 

Britto UN46D8000Reduced.pdf 455.146484375k . file
post #7022 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Hi guys. I'm new to this thread or at least I think I am. I looked over the last four pages early this morning as I had a 9 AM calibration scheduled for a UN46D8000. Like I said, I only went back four pages so maybe there has been a great deal of calibration info previously presented but I didn't take the time to search.

General impression: You guys have an excellent LCD display. The factory Movie mode is very close to Rec.709 standards as is. THX and ISF would be proud. I would hope that this applies to all D8000s. The Standard mode is a normal big box store set up, all bright, all blue, just crap.

The set was brand new and the electronics needed a hundred or more hours to settle in so I calibrated one HDMI input in Cal-Day so that he could switch back and forth and see what calibrated vs factory looks like. I'll go back in a couple months for a Day touch up, Cal-Night, and a 3D calibration.

The D8000 calibrates well despite the typical Samsung snafus, Red Push and half of the ten point grayscale/gamma controls being 10% off - eg. read 80% but adjust with 70%, etc. It would be such a pleasure if one of these years they didn't intentionally warp the color decoder to keep Caucasians from looking like Smurfs in the store modes.... Conversely, the Color Management System was damn near flawless.

Here is the Cal-Day calibration report. Any questions about what the numbers mean please ask. The bottom line is a very nice picture after kicking the decoder's butt as the last step. It is really too bad the video engineers and the marketing gents force this upon us.

I am interested in understanding what you mean by this comment:

half of the ten point grayscale/gamma controls being 10% off - eg. read 80% but adjust with 70%, etc.

On the 10p adjustments, wouldn't you use a 10% grey calibration pattern to set interval #1 (20% grey=interval 2, .... 100%=interval 10)? Are you just saying that the set came with the default settings off by 10% on a portion of the scale?

I noticed that you got excellent results in adjusting your color management system. While I got near perfect results for Delta H and Delta L for both primaries and secondaries, my green Delta C value is higher than I want it. Any tips for reducing Delta C on my green channel (can't seem to get it dialed in using just the custom color controls)?
post #7023 of 8402
Well, just got a call from Samsung. Rather than replace the screen on my 65D8000 for the second time, they offered me an exchange for brand new set. Minutes later I received an email:

"*** This is a system-generated email from an unmonitored mailbox. Please do not reply ***

Dear PATRICK,

Your exchange service request has been submitted.
Service Ticket Number: XXXXXXXXX"


Extremely eager to see what the build version is on this one!
post #7024 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Hi guys. I'm new to this thread or at least I think I am. I looked over the last four pages early this morning as I had a 9 AM calibration scheduled for a UN46D8000. Like I said, I only went back four pages so maybe there has been a great deal of calibration info previously presented but I didn't take the time to search.

General impression: You guys have an excellent LCD display. The factory Movie mode is very close to Rec.709 standards as is. THX and ISF would be proud. I would hope that this applies to all D8000s. The Standard mode is a normal big box store set up, all bright, all blue, just crap.

The set was brand new and the electronics needed a hundred or more hours to settle in so I calibrated one HDMI input in Cal-Day so that he could switch back and forth and see what calibrated vs factory looks like. I'll go back in a couple months for a Day touch up, Cal-Night, and a 3D calibration.

The D8000 calibrates well despite the typical Samsung snafus, Red Push and half of the ten point grayscale/gamma controls being 10% off - eg. read 80% but adjust with 70%, etc. It would be such a pleasure if one of these years they didn't intentionally warp the color decoder to keep Caucasians from looking like Smurfs in the store modes.... Conversely, the Color Management System was damn near flawless.

Here is the Cal-Day calibration report. Any questions about what the numbers mean please ask. The bottom line is a very nice picture after kicking the decoder's butt as the last step. It is really too bad the video engineers and the marketing gents force this upon us.

Brilliant post.

I just wish I could translate the report into settings for my set.

Can you guide us through please ?

Thanky you kindly.
post #7025 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronen123 View Post

Brilliant post.

I just wish I could translate the report into settings for my set.

Can you guide us through please ?

Thanky you kindly.

These kinds of results can not be translated from one set to another by exchanging settings. He used hardware (sensor), software and know how to dial in his specific set.
post #7026 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by UCSB View Post

These kinds of results can not be translated from one set to another by exchanging settings. He used hardware (sensor), software and know how to dial in his specific set.

I would argue though that his settings will still be closer to desired than any of the factory-supplied modes or any calibration effort by the untrained [perhaps even trained] eye.
post #7027 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick G View Post

Well, just got a call from Samsung. Rather than replace the screen on my 65D8000 for the second time, they offered me an exchange for brand new set. Minutes later I received an email:

"*** This is a system-generated email from an unmonitored mailbox. Please do not reply ***

Dear PATRICK,

Your exchange service request has been submitted.
Service Ticket Number: XXXXXXXXX"


Extremely eager to see what the build version is on this one!



Personally I don't think the build version means too much. I probably had the first UN65D8000 in the country. And it's darn near perfect to me and everyone who sees it. Those TV's are so complicated and have so many vendors supplying parts its likely for some bad TV's to hit the market. I have heard of good and bad from every build version. Sad to say, it's the luck of the draw.
post #7028 of 8402
Firmware 1024 BRICKED MY UN55D8000... Twice!

NOT WORTH THE RISK!

Thought I should mention it because the same thing happened to me after upgrading as has happened to some others. Upgrade from 1022 was performed through the TV menu/download and installed "successfully". Then about 1 minute after powering up, the TV started power cycling every couple minutes and the display stated "mode not supported" regardless of what video source was plugged in. Remote buttons did not work, but rather just initiated the next power cycle.

Samsung didn't even try to troubleshoot. They sent someone out. The tech replaced the mainboard with one loaded with 1023 and it worked. He proceded to install firmware 1024 onto the new board and it seemed to work, so he left. Then after 15 minutes, the same problems began again, minus the power cycling. No video inputs work, though SmartTV apps work fine now. In spite of having worked for some people, clearly there is something very wrong with this firmware.

So, six months into ownership, I am initiating my fourth in-home service call, which will be putting me on my second entire TV, second LCD and third mainboard. And I bit my lip and didn't complain about the bright patches all around the periphery when a dark scene is shown (~5% of entire picture--was 30% with first TV).

Does anybody have a downloaded copy of 1022 that I can attempt to install via USB?
post #7029 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by UCSB View Post

I am interested in understanding what you mean by this comment:

half of the ten point grayscale/gamma controls being 10% off - eg. read 80% but adjust with 70%, etc.

On the 10p adjustments, wouldn't you use a 10% grey calibration pattern to set interval #1 (20% grey=interval 2, .... 100%=interval 10)? Are you just saying that the set came with the default settings off by 10% on a portion of the scale?

I noticed that you got excellent results in adjusting your color management system. While I got near perfect results for Delta H and Delta L for both primaries and secondaries, my green Delta C value is higher than I want it. Any tips for reducing Delta C on my green channel (can't seem to get it dialed in using just the custom color controls)?

Many Samsungs exhibit this quirky 10p GS behavior, It works though.

I really can't comment on your Green Delta C. Here's something I found on this display that may or may not be related. I like to start calibrating 2010 & 2011 Samsungs with a Contrast setting of 92 and go from there. After checking the combination of Contrast and Back Light for desired peak brightness I go to a color clipping pattern for a look see before doing grayscale adjustment. On this set I had to reduce Contrast down to 85 due to red being clipped. My memory is a little fuzzy on this but I don't recall having to reduce below 90 previously. If you haven't already done so, check clipping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronen123 View Post

I just wish I could translate the report into settings for my set.

Can you guide us through please ?

Sharing settings doesn't work. The electronic parts used in the manufacturing of consumer electronics is far from military spec and two TVs one behind the other on the assembly line will calibrate differently, sometimes very much so. Settings are passed among forum members on every display specific thread at AVS but I'm inclined to believe that much of the resulting hoopla is placebo effect. For the hell of it I've tried published settings on four of my personal displays and the results have been about 50/50 whether or not the picture was improved over the stock Movie mode.
post #7030 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

I really can't comment on your Green Delta C. Here's something I found on this display that may or may not be related. I like to start calibrating 2010 & 2011 Samsungs with a Contrast setting of 92 and go from there. After checking the combination of Contrast and Back Light for desired peak brightness I go to a color clipping pattern for a look see before doing grayscale adjustment. On this set I had to reduce Contrast down to 85 due to red being clipped. My memory is a little fuzzy on this but I don't recall having to reduce below 90 previously. If you haven't already done so, check clipping.

Thanks for the suggestion on color clipping ... seems like a very logical path forward and a good possible explanation. I will calibrate a new input over the weekend and see if this approach lowers the Delta C on my green channel.
post #7031 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Sharing settings doesn't work. The electronic parts used in the manufacturing of consumer electronics is far from military spec and two TVs one behind the other on the assembly line will calibrate differently, sometimes very much so. Settings are passed among forum members on every display specific thread at AVS but I'm inclined to believe that much of the resulting hoopla is placebo effect. For the hell of it I've tried published settings on four of my personal displays and the results have been about 50/50 whether or not the picture was improved over the stock Movie mode.

I would agree with this and encourage the original poster (and any other AVS member interested in calibration) to consider picking up the hardware and software to do your own calibrations. It is a fun and rewarding extension of your interest in HDTV. There is real value in developing this skill set.

I have two D8000's (60", 55"). I have calibrated both with my Calman v4 software and Eye-One Pro sensor. It is very rewarding to see the great results. When my 60" arrived, I was pretty impressed with the status of the picture straight out of the box. My 55" arrived with a picture that was bad straight out of the box ... I considered it unwatchable and would have returned it without the ability to calibrate it. I also feel that the 60" set is a better made and performing set. There are differences between these sets ... potentially big differences.

I won't even use the same settings between the HDMI inputs on a given set. I calibrate each input independently (if I am using more than one input). It can take hours to calibrate a single HDMI input properly from start to finish (plan on many, many more the first time you attempt to calibrate a set). People just do not realize how sensitive these HDTV's are to these settings or how much work goes into a calibration. If you could see how much the performance of the HDTV changes as the calibration process unfolds, you wouldn't want to randomly load values into your set.
post #7032 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by UCSB View Post

I would agree with this and encourage the original poster (and any other AVS member interested in calibration) to consider picking up the hardware and software to do your own calibrations. It is a fun and rewarding extension of your interest in HDTV. There is real value in developing this skill set.

I have two D8000's (60", 55"). I have calibrated both with my Calman v4 software and Eye-One Pro sensor. It is very rewarding to see the great results. When my 60" arrived, I was pretty impressed with the status of the picture straight out of the box. My 55" arrived with a picture that was bad straight out of the box ... I considered it unwatchable and would have returned it without the ability to calibrate it. I also feel that the 60" set is a better made and performing set. There are differences between these sets ... potentially big differences.

I won't even use the same settings between the HDMI inputs on a given set. I calibrate each input independently (if I am using more than one input). It can take hours to calibrate a single HDMI input properly from start to finish (plan on many, many more the first time you attempt to calibrate a set). People just do not realize how sensitive these HDTV's are to these settings or how much work goes into a calibration. If you could see how much the performance of the HDTV changes as the calibration process unfolds, you wouldn't want to randomly load values into your set.

I would partially agree but for those of us that are not as privy the shared settings are a good base. Its not perfect but light years better than the storeroom settings which usually come stock. From there at least the average person can see what a difference tweaking can make.

I would love to learn the ins and outs but time and budget is limited. Shared settings are a laymans calibration so to speak :-) Eventually I will convince the mrs that we should buy the equipment, but until then I must rely on the advice of others.
post #7033 of 8402
I'm upgrading from a UN55b8000 to UN65D8000 - I currently have the 55" on the WMN1000B ultra slim wall mount.

Will this mount work with the 65D8000? I seem to get conflicting opinions, even Samsung representatives give me different info. Any insight?

EDIT: The mounting holes are 16" apart on the back of my 55"....I would assume if the holes on the 65D8000 are also 16" apart, it will work. Can anyone verify how far apart the top mounting holes are on their 65D8000?
post #7034 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by UCSB View Post

I would agree with this and encourage the original poster (and any other AVS member interested in calibration) to consider picking up the hardware and software to do your own calibrations. It is a fun and rewarding extension of your interest in HDTV. There is real value in developing this skill set.

I have two D8000's (60", 55"). I have calibrated both with my Calman v4 software and Eye-One Pro sensor. It is very rewarding to see the great results. When my 60" arrived, I was pretty impressed with the status of the picture straight out of the box. My 55" arrived with a picture that was bad straight out of the box ... I considered it unwatchable and would have returned it without the ability to calibrate it. I also feel that the 60" set is a better made and performing set. There are differences between these sets ... potentially big differences.

I won't even use the same settings between the HDMI inputs on a given set. I calibrate each input independently (if I am using more than one input). It can take hours to calibrate a single HDMI input properly from start to finish (plan on many, many more the first time you attempt to calibrate a set). People just do not realize how sensitive these HDTV's are to these settings or how much work goes into a calibration. If you could see how much the performance of the HDTV changes as the calibration process unfolds, you wouldn't want to randomly load values into your set.


Would you say that the 60 inch is not as sharp as the 55? I just bought a Sony 65HX929 and its so fuzzy and pixelated on screen graphics. Also certain channels just look so blurry . I wanted a big tv and i looked at the 55HX929 along with the 55 inch D8000 and figured the larger models would look the same but i was horribly wrong. I am returning the Sony today. Woull you suggest getting the UN60D8000? Im worried that anything over 55 starts to cause a deterioration in PQ.
post #7035 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post



Sharing settings doesn't work. The electronic parts used in the manufacturing of consumer electronics is far from military spec and two TVs one behind the other on the assembly line will calibrate differently, sometimes very much so. Settings are passed among forum members on every display specific thread at AVS but I'm inclined to believe that much of the resulting hoopla is placebo effect. For the hell of it I've tried published settings on four of my personal displays and the results have been about 50/50 whether or not the picture was improved over the stock Movie mode.

I understand. Thanks for responding but would it hurt to give your settings a spin ?

I have one more question for you.

Relating to clouding mainly.

I have some clouding on movie setting calibrated but on the presets and black test screen they are hardly there.

I adjusted my calibrated settings and changed the followng -

Blacktone - Darker
BL 7
Brightness 48
Gamma 0

And my clouding has gone down but is still there.

Why would the presets give rise to much better blacks and less clouding than calibrated ?

Many thanks.

Ron.
post #7036 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattoc59 View Post

Would you say that the 60 inch is not as sharp as the 55? I just bought a Sony 65HX929 and its so fuzzy and pixelated on screen graphics. Also certain channels just look so blurry . I wanted a big tv and i looked at the 55HX929 along with the 55 inch D8000 and figured the larger models would look the same but i was horribly wrong. I am returning the Sony today. Woull you suggest getting the UN60D8000? Im worried that anything over 55 starts to cause a deterioration in PQ.

I watch my 60" from about 9.5'. It is extremely sharp. But, any TV will look bad if your source component or media is bad. It appears sharper than the 55" from a similar distance. I like the 60" set much more than the 55" and would purchase the 60" over the 55" unless you are viewing from a very close distance.

Some ideas you might consider. Watching only HD material if sharp images are important (I only watch HD). Sometimes your cable/sat box can be bad. I purchased the 60" first. Then months later picked up the 55". The 55" didn't look as sharp as it should. It turned out that my Comcast DVR was under performing and when I swapped it out for their latest model the problem was solved.

Finally, adjusting your TV correctly will make a big difference. Just turning up the sharpen setting on your TV will make the images much worst if you turn it up to high. Rather than trying to give you a detailed explanation on this, I will refer you to the thread below where you can get free tuning test images and video tutorials that cover how to adjust sharpening correctly. Also, your picture fit setting is probably off and this may be causing some scaling on image.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
post #7037 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronen123 View Post

I understand. Thanks for responding but would it hurt to give your settings a spin ?

I have one more question for you.

Relating to clouding mainly.

I have some clouding on movie setting calibrated but on the presets and black test screen they are hardly there.

I adjusted my calibrated settings and changed the followng -

Blacktone - Darker
BL 7
Brightness 48
Gamma 0

And my clouding has gone down but is still there.

Why would the presets give rise to much better blacks and less clouding than calibrated ?

Many thanks.

Ron.

You are not running with calibrated settings because your HDTV was not calibrated. A more accurate description would be I loaded some suggested settings into my HDTV and it is now not operating that well.

Your BL setting at 7 is way to low if this is the backlight setting. Set it in the 12 to 16 range and turn on some lights in your viewing area. Follow the link I put in the post above, but only make the basic adjustments (and watch the basic videos) offered in that free package. That should correctly restore your blacks and dynamic range.
post #7038 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdchaser View Post

Ok, you asked for it, don't say I didn't warn you if the world ends when you try them... (note I used game mode and I think he left out some of the settings in his spreadsheet, I'll create my own list the next time I can get in front of the tv and write everything down)

Non 3D:

Picture → Mode: Standard
Contrast: +92
Brightness: +32
Sharpness: +8
Color: +56
Tint: R51
Backlight: +16
Color Tone: Warm2
Size: native
Digital NR: OFF
Active Color: OFF
DNIe: OFF
Detailed Settings → Black Adjust: off
Detailed Settings → Dynamic Contrast: Low
Detailed Settings → Gamma: o
Detailed Settings → Color Space: native

Red Offset: +25
Green Offset: +25
Blue Offset: +25
Red Gain: +32
Green Gain: +25
Blue Gain: +16

thanks for posting.
post #7039 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by gomezfox View Post

Firmware 1024 BRICKED MY UN55D8000... Twice!

NOT WORTH THE RISK!

Thought I should mention it because the same thing happened to me after upgrading as has happened to some others. Upgrade from 1022 was performed through the TV menu/download and installed "successfully". Then about 1 minute after powering up, the TV started power cycling every couple minutes and the display stated "mode not supported" regardless of what video source was plugged in. Remote buttons did not work, but rather just initiated the next power cycle.

Samsung didn't even try to troubleshoot. They sent someone out. The tech replaced the mainboard with one loaded with 1023 and it worked. He proceded to install firmware 1024 onto the new board and it seemed to work, so he left. Then after 15 minutes, the same problems began again, minus the power cycling. No video inputs work, though SmartTV apps work fine now. In spite of having worked for some people, clearly there is something very wrong with this firmware.

So, six months into ownership, I am initiating my fourth in-home service call, which will be putting me on my second entire TV, second LCD and third mainboard. And I bit my lip and didn't complain about the bright patches all around the periphery when a dark scene is shown (~5% of entire picture--was 30% with first TV).

Does anybody have a downloaded copy of 1022 that I can attempt to install via USB?

Ive been using it for a lil while. No issues for me. I went from 22 to 24. My tv is the 46" not the 55" so that may make a difference.
post #7040 of 8402
Just got my 55D8000 today and used MKA's settings and the picture looks great! Though, I noticed there are seperate picture settings for 3D. Does anyone have ideal calibration settings for 3D (moves, games, etc.)?

Thanks!
post #7041 of 8402
MKANET's settings were a bit too blue for my taste so I tried the settings here and they really look good to me. Looks like the only difference between the two is the color tone on the site above is warm2 while MKANET's color tone setting is standard. Still, I'm very pleased.

I was having a lot of judder on stuff I recorded on my HTPC using my Ceton tuner. By switching WMC7's refresh rate to 59.94Hz and turning Auto Motion Plus to clear I completely eliminated any juddering. Picture looks fantastic.
post #7042 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by KueMan10 View Post

Just got my 55D8000 today and used MKA's settings and the picture looks great! Though, I noticed there are seperate picture settings for 3D. Does anyone have ideal calibration settings for 3D (moves, games, etc.)?

Thanks!

I was also wondering. Seems the tv doesn't use the settings for 2D when switching to 3D as well? Does this mean you need to place settings while viewing 2D and again 3D on the same input?
post #7043 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by upstate-avfan-da View Post

I was also wondering. Seems the tv doesn't use the settings for 2D when switching to 3D as well? Does this mean you need to place settings while viewing 2D and again 3D on the same input?

Right. I noticed the picture left something to be desired while watching 3D, so I paused the movie I was watching (Avatar) and looked at the picture setting and they were different from when I would watch something in 2D. I used MKA's settings for 3D, but some things (e.g. 10p white) weren't enabled. The 3D picture DID look much better though after I changed the settings.
post #7044 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by KueMan10 View Post


Right. I noticed the picture left something to be desired while watching 3D, so I paused the movie I was watching (Avatar) and looked at the picture setting and they were different from when I would watch something in 2D. I used MKA's settings for 3D, but some things (e.g. 10p white) weren't enabled. The 3D picture DID look much better though after I changed the settings.

Did you think the picture needed to be brightened any with the settings? Not sure if 3D makes it needs backlight or brightness higher than 2D.
post #7045 of 8402
No, not necessarily. I knew that 3D would not appear as bright when watching it. Though I am interested in seeing if there are any picture settings thought SHOULD be different when watching 3D. Already did some searching with not much success.
post #7046 of 8402
Bought the UN55D8000 two or 3 weeks ago - really happy with the TV so far...
I really like the 3d on this TV - but then again i don't have much to compare it to...but so far its the best 3d experience i have had (seen like one or 2 real 3d movies in theaters/NYC)

One thing that really really sucks is that you cant use the qwerty remote on the YouTube app - such a BIG disappointment since i was excited about the qwerty remote just for that specific use
post #7047 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by DireMerlin View Post

Bought the UN55D8000 two or 3 weeks ago - really happy with the TV so far...
I really like the 3d on this TV - but then again i don't have much to compare it to...but so far its the best 3d experience i have had (seen like one or 2 real 3d movies in theaters/NYC)

One thing that really really sucks is that you cant use the qwerty remote on the YouTube app - such a BIG disappointment since i was excited about the qwerty remote just for that specific use

i was annoyed at that as well. I use the browser to watch youtube and using the pointer makes navigating once in youtube much easier. Try it out.
post #7048 of 8402
Watched the Avatar 3D Blu-ray last night and was amazed at the quality of the 3D on this set. Looked outstanding.

The only thing missing from this set that would make it perfect is an Amazon app. I'm a Prime member and would love an app to let me watch their collection of free movies. Anybody heard anything about Samsung adding this app?
post #7049 of 8402
I don't get it!

Consumer Reports rated TVs this month and out of the 27 3D TVs that they reviewed, the UN55D8000 was 24th!

Eneg
post #7050 of 8402
Quote:
Originally Posted by eneg View Post

I don't get it!

Consumer Reports rated TVs this month and out of the 27 3D TVs that they reviewed, the UN55D8000 was 24th!

Eneg

Shot in the dark, my guess is that they prob rated the tv's out of the box with little to no calibration. In order for most of us (some of us get a great picture with barely any adjustments) to get a great HD picture, we go through some serious calibration, a few going as far as having it professionally calibrated. If you are happy with what see/have, then those ratings hold no water. If you are those that follows ratings as the word of (insert Deity), then buying the set that is on top, 2nd, 3rd etc on the list is best.
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