Official Samsung UNXXD8000 Owners' Thread - Page 254

Hey thanks.

And herein lies the problem. I am stuck going between one setting now and others to see if I have compromised anything. Its driving me insane! lol

I liked your previous settings, which inspired me to use enhancements. But at the same time I do really like the look with the enhancements off. I just feel the tv is not as rich for it

The bold part is what I love about those settings. They are roughish, so when you add the enhanced effects, the baseline was so flexible, you can take it to the enhancements and come away with a good result.

If you noticed the values were close together. 19, 18, 20 ( 1-2 points) 31, 29, 24 (4 points or double distance) I do not know the significance of that, but when I graph it in my head its an interesting plot for the greyscale. And I never really want to (or can) do 10 pt white.

I actually for my set adjusted the 20 down to 18.


I saw punt's settings. From that very same thread I pulled off Gaz's settings which are:


Yet his settings provided me the most uniform look I've ever had. And its pretty ok most of the time, but with his settings it was a clean slate of grey. I could not beleive it. And yet. I am still choosing which settings I will stick with ...... mine, which hide flaws and provide richness, or his, or another one! lol

BTW: I am still using my original settings on SD channels. They come up really well.

Guys, I move fast. Seriously fast. But I am busting down barriers here to the most awesome settings, and if I can get them bang on, it should be no trouble telling you how to tweak them, as I am whitnessing the cool interplay between settings across different media and the color spectrum in relation to gamma.

***I thought earlier**** this :::> actually I have made up my mind and decided to stick with the settings I first posted on here. My panel is pretty uniform, and the color of these settings, while maintaining a high level of realism and acuracy are just too good not to use even on HD.

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BUT THEN::::>

I finally got a chance to compare Tempests Dark Knight pictures with my own.


IMPORTANT PIECE of information::>


I must say there is virtually - to the non discerning eye - NO difference between a professional calibration and my own going off those shots. BUT!! If you look closer, you will see Tempests Kelvin is dialed right in. And I am sure a bunch of other fine adjustments, that all add up....mainly to allow contrast to be better without having to resort too much to digital enhancements, while still maintaining acceptable black levels

Tempest was giving me a hard time, and maybe rightly, because he took the time to calibrate his set with tools (and its something I would like to do) but I told him that my colors and the picture was fantastic, for which he was happy for.

Being able to see someone's calibrated pictures was really good.
I truly believe calibration by a professional is probably the best way to get the clearest and best picture possible, but I also truly believe that one can only make it a few % better overall by using tools.

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I however, have set out using Tempests settings in his thread. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post21696495


I howeve, found I could not get the proper kelvin for the color. For that what brought me closest to it (it seems, once again, no tools here) is HDTV's colors. You may have better luck. Of course nothing is ever 100%, only near, I am sure something is out, but I bet these are damn close.

Tempest's Settings:


Calibration "Trial 2"
Calibration Date: 2/24/2012
Colorimeter: X-Rite i1Display Pro (purchased Feb 2012)
Software: SpectraCal CalMan v4.5.0.341/341/335 - DIY License
Source: Panasonic BDT210 Blu-Ray player with the AVS HD 707 1.2b Blu-Ray patterns disc

Basic Settings
Picture Mode Movie
Backlight 16
Contrast 87
Brightness 48
Sharpness 14
Color 50
Tint 50/50

Advanced Settings
Black Tone Dark Off
Dynamic Contrast Low Off
Gamma 1

Color Space
Red R51 G0 B2
Green R5 G57 B0
Blue R0 G1 B64
Yellow R53 G55 B0
Cyan R0 G56 B58
Magenta R52 G0 B57

White Balance (coarse grain)
R-Offset 26
G-Offset 25
B-Offset 23
R-Gain 26
G-Gain 25
B-Gain 12

10p White Balance
1 R0 G0 B0
2 R0 G0 B0
3 R-1 G0 B-1
4 R-1 G0 B0
5 R-1 G0 B1
6 R-2 G0 B1
7 R1 G0 B0
8 R1 G0 B0
9 R0 G0 B-4
10 R0 B0 B-10

Edge Enhancement Off
Motion Lighting Off
xvYCC Off
LED Motion Plus Cinema Off

Picture Options
Color Tone Warm 2
Digital Noise filter Auto
MPEG Noise Filter Auto
HDMI Black Level Normal
Film Mode Off
Auto Motion Plus Off
Smart LED High Off
Cinema Black Off


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And if the custom colors do not work (and there would be no benefit to the 10pt balance either), try the following:

red 50 0 0
green 3 56 2
blue 0 4 92
yellow 56 48 1
cyan 0 52 54
Magenta 40 4 59

The only other changes I made was reducing my R-offset to 22. I am sure its probably thrown something else out of wack, but having that higher than 22 usually on my set gives certain shadows a red cast. Either way its probably made it more unbalanced somehow, or maybe not. Remember I am not measuring anything with a tool. omg

--->>> As usual with any kind of calibrated setting, someone has done, these settings look good. What I am most happy about is that the temperature seems to be dialed in well. I bet its down to something very near 65k. I am checking white scenes with these settings, and shadowed/white scenes. I am checking all kinds of references. SO far so good. And the gamma seems to be right on the money, or if its not, then its at a level where its continually not a problem (which is what I ran into when I had to reduce r offset, but I have always needed to do that.

UPDATE

Just amazing. I am getting better color/gamma interaction than ever. Tempests settings for me are the apex thus far. The white ghosts in LOTR are indeed white, and their contrast agains the deeper black around them is striking. Ok, things were close(ish) before, but not this close. I have had to reduce R-offset down to about 22. IN previous incarnations this had made some of my colors at certain points on the gamma-curve too cold, blueish. Most notably in one actors clothing or grass (at times), even tho it was an awesome rich color to look at, also white tinged with blue in the ghosts, it has a little in real life film (but never too much, its a peal-white/off-cool-white.) I can guess you can tell its clear just how oversaturated certain bits were in my past settings. Not by much, but all these imperfections add up, and not to mention that the gamma/color and contrast curve was out of wack, adds up to make a picture less than what it could be.

I want a ruler flat gamma line and solid color bouncing off it. Without a tool of any kind

Now the colors not too warm in deeper shadows, not too cold out in higher contrast shadowed areas.

LOTR is a bad movie to calibrate around, all I can use it for is a reference, because they took the color temp and manipulated it at the stuido. They go from one scene being cold colored to another being warm, to adding shadows and taking them away, to adjusting contrast points on screen, ect. LOTS OF SPECIAL ADDITIONAL color effects.

From viewing Dark Knight I found my original settings to be too far out, either too warm at stages or too cold, depending on shadow level. I found contrast to be lacking in impact, especially around the brightest white areas that required black lines through them. The fact that previously I had to reduce the red intensity low (r-offset) seems to have taken the warmth out of shadowy colors, so any grass in shadow was too cool, ect, as one example. No matter how slight, it just wasn't locked on-tight to the color temp it should have been.

* BY the time I entered in my new color settings, these problems seem to have completely disappeared.

** I am still not getting exact gamma all the way over the curve I am sure, but its the closest its ever been. I am not even sure if this is suited to viewing in dark rooms. I will need to play around a bit more, have a tinker. Maybe I can adjust gamma down via the slider to help it out. Something, but I don't want to screw with it too much since it may blow out the acurate color/gama thing Tempest has going on with the HDRTV custom colors. haha

First setting in the past few days where I've felt I have not had to use digital enhancing . As my eye has gotten more discerning (whereas the past months I've been like: "to hell with it, looks good enough") has caused me to require more of the picture.

I think I am back in the camp of "as the director intended". I have not had settings this good for months (before the f/w changes)

BUT I know this is right now, thanks to Tempest mainly, because even the skintones are bang on, no matter the light level (high contrast, low contrast, its all good)

I suggest everyone hunt around for good color customs, as they were key in helping me here. Before I added them, it was all way too warm in normal light and skintone was always hovering on the edge of being too "rosy-cheeked"...given I am not dialing in 10pt white balance, I think the last place where one can fine tune that will make all the difference would be the colors. Because the rest of the job's been done getting the contrast balance right and the gama good enough to hold it all over the "graph"/screen

D8000 why did you change color to 54 from 47 in your earlier post?

I find these last few pages of post very interesting. Tempest's settings is what I'm using. To be honest, it's mostly Tempest settings with small changes to turn on some of the tv features.

Anyways, I could not ask for more when watching in daylight. Beautiful and stunning video reproduction is the best way to describe it. The problem is watching the tv in the dark. Clouding, while greatly minimized, is still visible usually in the bottom of the screen.
If it's full screen picture, no complaints. Any suggestion for a fix?

Yes, I tried Gaz's setting. I dont think I have a TV anything like his. Too much red color correction; adversely affects all other colors.. giving an unnecessarily warmer tone than necessary on my TV. Dark detail was also missing or not easily visible due to reducing the gamma setting (thats why it hides clouding on TVs that have that problem).

It's actually pretty easy to tell when colors are not right; even with the naked eye when using a PC.. just switch the temperature/tone to "Standard". Just looking at a few familiar pictures; you would be able to tell if something isn't right. Also, it's very easy to tell when dark details are being lost because of bad settings (such as when the black pluges end up missing or not easily visible in a SMPTE pattern). It might not be possible to tell whats going on by just watching movies with a bluray player.

BTW: I thought PuntNL's last settings was worthy of a dedicate URL (hopefully he wont mind). I just modified it with some minor changes to backlight and setting black tone to "dark". PuntNL's settings seem to hit dead on with white balance/color space; at least on my TV:

http://un55d8000.webs.com/index-rev2.htm

I really suggest everyone try my Melding of Tempestes settings with the custom colors (or his colors or someone elses)..

I am getting no black crush, but exceptional detail! For instance Arwen has dark hair, and in a dark scene I am able to see the braids of her dark brown hair perfectly, in high detail, and life-like.

This is the best representation I have come across in ages, and my eyes are waaaay more discerning now.

Oh, yes, Only because 47 was what I had calibrated my colors to be at perfect levels. (albeit my last custom colors, so I will have to do that again.)

Basically when I raised them I was trying to get a richer tone, and it works, but I am no longer convinced that its worth it.

But it could depend on many factors....yet most people have it between 45 and 50. The best settings I've used always had it at 47-50...when I calibrated it using the blue rgb mode and the test pattern, it was VERY fickle.....48 and it was too much, 46 and it was too little to make the 3 grey squares match most alike. I was always pleased with the saturation of 47. But I am using a setting now on 50, and its fine. If I checked it, I bet it would be spot on.

Thats all great, I had seen his settings once a few months back, and people said it was good.

Isn't it great that now we have so many settings to choose from, and a wealth of calibration experience (not me really, you may have done it) that we are pretty much guaranteed of finding a GREAT setting.

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What you say about Gaz is true for me as well. It hid a lot of stuff, and it was as if a lot of the picture was black. I was always concerned that he said he "settled" on those....

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I was dealing with over-correcting red previously. I feel though my tv requires it. NO MATTER who's white balance settings I through up I invariably have to reduce the red parts, otherwise some shadows get either a red tinge or a brown tinge. I have to reduce red and its a fairly easy adjustment and I do not think it impacts too much on other settings.

-> So the beauty for me with Tempestes settings are much like your experience with Punts perhaps:

With Temptest, he did not touch green. Someone, somewhere I remember reading told a few people never to bother touching green in white balance. Because you will never get it right - ever, and its more likely to push other things out than help. Then someone mentioned trying to set blue up once I think and he could not nail-down the final setting, it was either too much or too little. So maybe thats why Tempeste seems to have lowered it on one end and barely touched it on the other??? Because everyone else settings basically go all over.....and if you remember my settings, I held to the above philosophy.....I didn't want numbers everywhere....i wanted to keep it neat and in order, without adjusting all over the shop. So the biggest difference in the first 3 groups was 2 points. And the next 3 groups, 4 points. The first 3 balances were low, around 18-20, the last 31-27 IIRC. The colors came out fine, and seemed good enough, if a little bit too warm in the end, but better than being cold, but what would be even better is if they were perfect, which they were not.

The only thing he did was increase red intensity by 1 (which I later reduced by 4, and depending maybe more).

The tones therefore are earthy and real, greeny-blue is particulally pleasing, and the set, which would have otherwise been 'lead' by the red gamut, gives way to those earthy pleasing colors. I am looking at a "red" council of elrond scene in LOTR and its not too much, its just the right level.

Blue, which is naturally overdone by the set he took the high level intensity down to 12, I've never seen that - yet given how the colors all mix up now on screen, its worked a treat.

I don't pretend to understand every in and out, I am more than happy.

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I also have several reference photos of high digital photography and instructions from the creators on how to judge the picture. That really helps. Bluerays can be hard, especially LOTR, its better as a reference rather than a standard, because the studio went all over the shop with how they manipulated colors/temps/scenes/added light, ect for a few moments then removed it, ect....so its not exactly a great thing to go stadardising on.

I have enjoyed writing it. If it lets you inside whats going on in my slow brain then thats all good, and how I arrive at certain things, and people may find something in relation to their own sets.


I agree with your Tempest settings critique.

I have not noticed any lighting issues. My set is pretty good, I was lucky, but even I get flashlighting on occassion. Clouding, basically nil and no banding.

I have pictures of my screen a few pages back.

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I was told that one had to either adjust the backlight down to 8 or up to about 16 to avoid many issues of uniformity. Now, it would seem that 12 is about middle ground and perfect for day/night, but its not the number people seem to avoid their issues with.

I really don't have any solutions other than that. You may wish to keep your gamma lower or higher than normal depending.

Gaz's settings reduced clouding, but it hid a lot of the picture lol. Good settings otherwise, but nothing like Tempeste. Its done the job for me.

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BTW guess I should not mess with r offsett, by taking it down I am removing a LOT of red from the picture. Its not destroying it but its certainly better its up at 26. I could live with 24 though (in the absense of no 10pt white balance on my setup...but given the acuracy of these coarse ones I may try it)


Without me using 10 pt white balance, its harder for me to get the blacks really black ALL OVER the picture (at least i believe this is the reason)...so to compensate I have set Black Level to Dark and D/contrast to low to compensate for that. It seems to be really working, and its not really messing with otherwise great base settings. And should try 10pt soon. Think I will.

What digital enhancements do you add? I have tried none yet as I have not seen any scenes where I think it needs added impact, the base-line does it all already....which ones, if any, do you use?

For those interested or are still within their D8000 return period, a new ES8000 review just popped up. It's for the European model.



They also have a video review. From that video, I can barely eek out some of these observations:

1. The viewing angle is just as bad on the ES8000 as it is on the D8000, which to say, it's pretty bad. Everything shifts blue (especially blacks) when you're not directly on, and you can clearly see that in the off-angle camera shots of their review.

2. It seems that the ES8000 has gone back to only 2 vertical columns of LEDs on either side (vs. the horizontal additional LEDs found in the D8000 H302/H303 revisions). I looked VERY hard for edge bloom in the video but I couldn't detect any. That doesn't mean it's not there, but they MAY have fixed this problem. I always thought it would be a materials issue.

3. No mention of banding/uniformity issues. Didn't detect any in the video. Doesn't mean they're not there.

Overall, I think this was a bad review in that they didn't really approach the review from the perspective of "did they fix all of these issues with the D8000?" as they should have. The Euro D8000 was even worse in that there was no micro dimming in that model to hide many of the flashlighting issues. They also have zero mention of banding. In all, the review seems to fall in line like most of us are like when we first opened up the D8000... to say, it's a very "holy crap this TV is awesome" sort of experience... until you spend some quality time with it.

Am I interested in the ES8000? After seeing that video, despite the hope that a lot of problems might be fixed, probably not. As time went on, the terrible viewing angle bothered me more and more with the D8000. My understanding is that these are VA panels, vs. IPS, for the sake of 3D switching speeds. That panel choice kills viewing angles. However, it's great to see that they just may have solved many of the D8000's glaring design problems. If you're interested in the ES8000, I would wait for the TV to hit CNET for reviews- my respect for David Katzmaier's impeccable scrutiny has gone through the roof. His review of the D8000 could not have been more spot-on (to say, I should have listened to him ), and I expect the ES8000 review will be no different.

My D8000 was picked up on Friday (thanks Amazon!!!!) and I couldn't be more happy with my decision to return it. My old 2006 Philips CCFL 720P LCD is back up, and while it's lower res and only 42" (vs the 55" of the D8000), my girlfriend and I are thrilled with the picture quality compared to the D8000. It's amazingly refreshing to have a full dark grey background and to see no banding or edge bloom.

I'm watching Deadwood on DVD as a means of testing the settings to make sure the blacks aren't crushed.

For anybody that's interested, I'm using Tempest's settings on a 65" tv with the following changes:
Backlight 16
Brightness 48
Sharpness 20

Advanced settings:
Black Tone Dark
Dynamic Contrast High
Gamma -1 during the day, 0 for night (haven't yet settled for either)
Edge enhancement on
LED Motion Plus Normal

Picture Options:
Color Tone Standard
Digital Noise Filter Auto
MPEG Noise Filter Auto
Film Mode Auto2
Auto Motion Plus Custom - Blur Reduction 10, Judder Reduction 3
Smart LED High

Watching DVD, Bluray and true OTA 1080i tv programming is phenomenal, especially sports.

Like I mentioned earlier, clouding from white text on black background is greatly minimized (ie. hardly visible) except it's still barely visible near the bottom of my tv.

sir, how can i adjust the depth(1-10) in 3d settings? I can only adjust perspective(-5 upto 5) in manual mode. The depth is disable at 5 how can i make it to 10? Thanks.

D8000,

Are you still fiddling with your settings or have you pretty much gotten it where you like it? I ask because I would love to see your newly updated settings when you get time. Thanks

sorry to hear.

wow your d8000 must have been bad! omg man.

Its great to see you getting a full refund / swap better tv of your choice.

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I saw one such review of the es, and the guy did in fact go into the uniformity and his high hopes, (sorry I do not have the link anymore, found on a forum), and he said that the ES he had, had NO uniformity issues.

He remarked that he said it was the tv that Samsung should have made in 2011. He called it exceptional, and that if the d8000 was rushed out to market, the es8000 is certainly the 'completed' package.

Like a car that needs to be recalled - in this day and age - there is NO excuse for a bad product.

Everyone should have the choice of going to the ES8000 of those whose uniformity is bad (provided the ES is better, which it seems to be by all accounts thus far)

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Some of the frustrations you have with the d8000 I was experiencing last time you were on here.

But its good you are happier now, I could never handle the stupid amount of uniformity problems some get - its not acceptable.

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Anyway, your settings live on, they are the ones I use, tho I am sure you have read.

Thankyou Tempest. - Even though the d8000 was pissing me off, you got me back into the frame of mind "what the director intended". Cheers, dude.

Thanks for the settings.

I have finished fiddling. I am left with only one more option.

I have discovered that having r offset on anything under 26 there's no point because it removes some amount of red in scenes.

So I am leaving it all as per tempests original settings


There are nothing wrong with the settings on my screen, and I can't imagine the r-offset being a problem for anyone at 1 point above its default.


I think it should think that if anyone wants to bump on black tone to its lowest setting and d/contrast to its lowest setting, it should be up to personal preference

I just did that some of today recently, and it 'enhances' the picture without any drawbacks it seems......

BUT the only thing is that I honestly don't think it really needs it. "as the director intended" philosophy, combined with Tempests awesome settings, means the picture looks great.

But I always put a disclaimer to that - you are well within your rights, and in some ways you would just be enhancing a near perfect picture. So whats the point, but it does look good too.

Before I ramble, I would say, "either way is ok"

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And to answer your question succinctly, yes I have finished, and I arrived at Tempests Original settings that I melded with the Custom Color I found on HDTV, as listed on this page above

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Tempests


Basic Settings
Picture Mode Movie
Backlight 16
Contrast 87
Brightness 48
Sharpness 14
Color 50
Tint 50/50

Advanced Settings
Black Tone Dark Off
Dynamic Contrast Low Off
Gamma 1

Color Space (*from Tempest*; for my tv I used the *HDTV one* from facebook which is at the end here, it gives me the best Kelvin, your milage may vary)
Red R51 G0 B2
Green R5 G57 B0
Blue R0 G1 B64
Yellow R53 G55 B0
Cyan R0 G56 B58
Magenta R52 G0 B57

White Balance (coarse grain)
R-Offset 26
G-Offset 25
B-Offset 23
R-Gain 26
G-Gain 25
B-Gain 12

10p White Balance (I use his 10pt white system for my tv. It actually enhanced the picture for once!!! Truly wonderful! bearing in mind, its calibrated for HIS tv! amazing!)
1 R0 G0 B0
2 R0 G0 B0
3 R-1 G0 B-1
4 R-1 G0 B0
5 R-1 G0 B1
6 R-2 G0 B1
7 R1 G0 B0
8 R1 G0 B0
9 R0 G0 B-4
10 R0 B0 B-10

Edge Enhancement Off
Motion Lighting Off
xvYCC Off
LED Motion Plus Cinema Off

Picture Options
Color Tone Warm 2
Digital Noise filter Auto
MPEG Noise Filter Auto
HDMI Black Level Normal
Film Mode Off
Auto Motion Plus Off
Smart LED High Off
Cinema Black Off


Tempests color (I chose to use this HDTV's, it gives better kelvin for my tv. your milage may vary)

red 50 0 0
green 3 56 2
blue 0 4 92
yellow 56 48 1
cyan 0 52 54
Magenta 40 4 59

NOTE: People are allowed to switch on black tone to dark (lowest) and d-contrast to Low. This helps the picture out a bit, yet honestly, for my tv at least, these settings are SO acurate, I do not think they really need activating, but its true, with them on, the picture retains its awesome integrity and "directors intention" feel....but remember, it has the potential to introduce un-original or unintentional parts of the picture. This was the case in the Planet Earth documentary shallow seas. A black portion of the clouds shadow was obviously 'enhanced'...and the worst thing about this was, having intimate knowledge of the picture, it was a cloud-shadow on water that 'without black tone' still looked black enough to pass as a perfectly rendered representation of the cloud-shadow. So I advise it off, but certainly the picture is enhanced...its not that it did a bad job of enhancing the cloud-shadow on the water....it was that the Black Tone had digitally enhanced the spot, so it was just even blacker than it should be! And it was obvious, because I knew it was because of black tone....BUT was it out of place? maybe not. each to his own. I am merely pointing out that it will add non-usual things to the image. But it can look great, of course. --->and its usually the source material, as this is not a proper blue ray.

NOTE: d contrast. D contrast set to low on the other hand does a GREAT JOB *usually always* of bumping up the contrast without altering the original picture too much. In some ways, I believe its a must-have improvement. Its making the colors more vibrant, without altering them in the slightest. Is it required, though on pain of death-of-image-quality? No. The unadulterated picture is just fine. And if its SD content you are viewing, I think you should turn on black tone and d contrast to help out.

NOTE: If you get judder or anything, turn on Motion Plus custom blur 10 judder 3

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And thats it, I have def finished fiddling now. The picture is great and how it should be

I've entered Tempest's settings, and ran the backlight/contrast/brightness but to me the picture looks kinda washed out. I had my wife check it out and she agreed. I ran the AVS disk on Standard and I'll post the updated numbers, just a couple are different.

I'm watching the Grizzlies game and as an example, the yellow at the free throw line is supposed to be a little brighter, because we used to go to a lot of games when we lived there. Tempest's settings had the yellow look lighter, but everything else looked a little flat and washed out. Like I said earlier YMMV, but I have tried other movie settings but to me they aren't as vibrant and pop like Standard does.

Tron was on last night and I recorded it. When I was going back from my Standard settings and the other Movie settings I had on there I saw very little if any differences, Movie looked a little greyer but both had discernible blacks vs other dark colors.

Can someone tell me how I can tweak red with this tv?

It can go to 10? How? Where? Huh?...

Washed out :O

I really liked Tempest's settings. They had just the right amount of brightness IMO; while not showing flashlighting. In fact, I would probably be using them if the white balance/color space settings matched my TV's characteristics. On my TV, green color was predominant; which was affecting other colors. This is an exaggerated example of how Tempest's color settings looked on my TV It wasn't too noticeable when watching movies; however it was noticeable when using my PC; looking at pictures I'm familiar with (that don't have color filters).

I 100% believe that every Samsung LCD panel is a bit different. However, I 100% believe that I've identified one panel type floating around which need very similar color corrections for white balance and color space.

Both PuntNL (post #229) and RocketRonnieRad's (post #595) have settings corrects custom tailored specifically for their TVs. It's no coincidence that their settings compensate for the same general color characteristics. Surprisingly, both settings "fit" my TV the same way a custom tailored suit for an athletic build person would fit very well on another person with an athletic build. This is definitely no coincidence. There's no doubt in my mind that my TV, PuntNL, and RocketRonnieRad's TVs share the same general panel characteristics; despite that PuntNL has a Euro D7000 LCD and RocketRonnieRad has an American D7000. I actually had to switch back and forth several times between PuntNL and RocketRonnieRad's settings since they were very close.

PuntNL had another D7000 TV; which needed completely different calibration settings. None of his previous settings seemed to look right on my TV.

This means that there are some D8000's/D7000 that these settings should be ideal for; especially if my previous settings looked very good on their TV's before. It might be hard to tell which settings have the right colors when watching movies. However, if the user can hook up a computer to the TV in movie mode (using YCbCr in a RGB 0-255 colorspace or pure YCbCr) it should be pretty obivous if the settings have an affinity to a certain color or if the colors look better or worse when looking at pictures they are familiar with.

It's in the E-manual it is stated there depth(1-10).. but the depth setting is disabled at 5. does anyone know how can i adjust the depth? or is it really disabled at 5?

Hello MKANET, I've just got the 55" D8000 (UK model) and tried your settings and the blacks look grey especially on the black bars at the top and bottom of the screen when watching a film. You say HDMI Black level should be disabled, mine's default set to low, this makes the greys black again and the picture quite good, should it be low?

My set doesn't have Smart LED or Cinema Black modes either, would that make a difference I'm not sure what they do.

Thanks

Yes, you are right. Those grey bars are because you don't have Cinema Black. That's the whole purpose of cinema black. I wouldn't try to fix that. If you do, you will end up compromising the rest of the picture.

HDMI Black level should automatically go to the right setting; regardless of what it says when it's disabled. If you have the option of changing this setting, it means you have a device that can use either mode. You will have to then select the HDMI Black level mode that looks right for you. It should be pretty easy to tell which mode is the right one for you. If you have it on the wrong HDMI Black level setting, you will either see completly washed out blacks or a picture that looks too dark. If you have a bluray player, TV cable, Satellite cable device, it will automatically go to the right setting.

Thanks for that, the picture looks good with those settings and HDMI black set to low.

One small issue I just posted on another forum was that I was getting a bit of picture break up ie it was looking a bit "blocky" on some SKY HD channels any way to minimise this or is it due to the poor HD content being aired?

I questioned the What Hifi review and below is their response:-

Really dissapointing review as the main question for previous 8000 owners is how bad the light bleed and screen uniformaty is ? I can't believe What Hifi have not commented on this unless there is a gagging order by Samsung.

Letterbox films viewed in the dark were awful on my ue55D8000 with light bleed into the black (now grey) bars!

Perhaps the reviewer would like to comment on this problem and how bad it is on the new sets?

REPLY

Simon Lucas Fri, Mar 2 2012, 11:05AM
We're of course aware of some issues with the backlighting of previous Samsung TVs, just as we're aware owners of other brands of TV have suffered similarly. Whenever we've encountered uneven backlighting in screens we've reviewed we've been at pains to point it out. There have been occasions, in fact, when we've raised the issue with a manufacturer even if it's not a problem we've personally encountered.

There's a paragraph in the review of the UE55ES8000 dealing with the quality of the backlighting, and the reason we don't mention unevenness or lack of uniformity is because we didn't see any.

The idea that Samsung might be able to dictate the terms of our review did make me smile, though.

So just an update on my 65D8000. It seems that the screen uniformity has gotten even worse somehow. We we're watching The Thing (the new one, btw, not even close to the greatness of the original) on blu-ray last night and it was almost unwatchable. Even my wife said it looked terrible and she is one of the easiest to please when it comes to television. As long as it has a picture, she doesnt care. But this, this is just distracting. Its hard to pay attention to anything else. I still havent heard from the repair center that was supposed to call within 24-48 hours. I did some research online and found their number for my area. I called and talked with someone and they informed me they have not received my repair ticket yet, but as soon as they did, they would call. I asked her once someone called, how long it would be until someone could come out, she said usually a week. Now, heres my issue with that. Im gonna wait another week for someone to come out and agree that the panel is indeed defective. Then what? Im sure he's gonna have to order the part, which could take weeks and then when he installs it, it may not fix the issue at all. Might even make it worse. Im wondering if my best option right now is to just send it back to Amazon and get a refund. If i knew for sure that they would either be able to fix it or exchange it for one that looks at least half way decent, I would be fine. I just feel like Im waiting for the sake of waiting. Anybody on here have a positive experience with having a Samsung tech come out to work on their tv? What would you guys do in my position?

I cant ultimately make a choice, we know its your call. I am not saying anything by my comments either way until right at the end where I give my opinion, so you can make up your mind.

I just want to point out some info, that PLENTY OF TIMES people on forums (up to 100 by now, surely)have said "getting new tv, getting new part" and the problem usually gets no better quickly for them. A lot of the time they just replace the same problem with itself or a new one.

Because it truly is a manufacturing thing/engeneering limitation with the technology.

I read recently that the reviewer lamented about d8000's and all other edge lits, that he could not forsee a time when this tech would be better than the one they tried to replace - he seems to think one should wait for oled.

Read some reviews about the new es and everyone says NO uniformity probs.

I wish my arse I'd waited to buy. 6 months, its not long. Wish I had, because my uniformity is ok, but knowing its a problem (super mild not worth bothering on mine) just irks me. **THEY KNEW the sets would have problems, but they still push to sell them ** how annoying.

I dont know what you can/going to do, but I do know the problems are inherent in the design. And its a massive shame.

I think many people are going to rue buying a d8000 when OLEDS are bigger in a few years time.

Now, I like my tv a lot. But Its like the stupid motorola phone i bought 2 years back - the phone sux, and people felt ripped off because moto said they would upgrade the OS on it - but never did, and the phone is a slow dog.

I have to look at newer better phones, but have determined to wait until august to buy a new one, purely for financial effifiency purposes, its not too bad, but it still sux in comparison with what I know is out there now. I think much the same for this tv.


So, dont want to dampen your spirit. I know - you know - that good panels are out there, but looking at the big picture please go into it informed. There are good ones, yes, but perfect ones, compared to what they say about the es? I dont know. I do know that the current pannels don't get better for the majority of people. (samsung should gaurantee their panels)

I guess I am saying in your position, I would not want to be bitten twice. I would get my money back. You have a beauty of a tv, but they never designed it right. And there will be better models soon. I think if you can get your money back, i truly think you should, and avoid being biten just incase you do get bitten like so many others, with the hope of soon buying something better.

Once again, I like the d8000, I just am dissapointed with capitalism due to it/human nature. My set turned out great, I am happy, but it has niggles. I think at the end of the day you have a chance to be one of the lucky ones in all this.

P.S But since he is coming out, see what he can do. See what he thinks, and tell him what you will ultimately do and if its not worth it, that you will want your money back, and get across that you're the kind of guy, that if the uniformity can't be gauranteed or come close to being really good, you will be seeking money back.

This is intriguing. I would love to know this too. But, it seems that this thread discussion is deep into calibration settings and this topic may very well be over looked and end up buried in the thread. Let's hope someone gives it a look for us.

When I have looked at the D7000 and D8000 in a few different stores , I saw absolutely no flash lighting or clouding on ANY of these sets? Why does it seem so many people are having them when they gt the tv home?

Its almost as if something happens from when they are at the store to when they get home. Who knows it could happen lol.

D8000, thank you very much for your honest and sincere opinion. I will take your advice and talk with the technician before making a decision. If he doesnt think this new panel or replacement tv will make a difference, I will skip that whole process and send it back to amazon and get my money back. Amazon was really nice about their return policy when I called a few days ago. They said they were unable to replace but would be happy to send a truck out to pick the tv up and refund my money in full. Thats more than likely what I will end up doing instead of being bitten twice. If so, I really really hope the 65" version of the ES Model will be available soon. After going from a 55" to a 60" and then to a 65", its hard to go back to anything smaller than a 65." It goes perfect in my mancave and the 3d pops even more. Thanks again for your help

Im with you guys. Ive been wondering the same thing and I actually just figured it out. The only way for you to change the depth past 5, is if your are converting a 2d signal to 3d. If you are watching a true 3d source, it will only allow you to adjust the 3d perspective.