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Pioneer VSX-1021 Owners' Thread - Page 14

post #391 of 2588
How do you guys display the input "BD/CATV/DVD" on TV when switching between inputs on the receiver?
I cant find in the manual
post #392 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtphl View Post

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the Pioneer VSX-1021K (American) or the Pioneer VSX-1021 (European, without the "K"). It seams like the Europeen has more output power:

American (1021K)

Power Output Per Channel(20Hz-20kHz,.08%THD@8ohm) 90 W
Power Output Per Channel (1kHz@6ohm) 130 W

Europen (1021)

Power Output Per Channel(20Hz-20kHz,.08%THD@8ohm) 105 W
Power Output Per Channel (1kHz@6ohm) 150 W

So what does the K stand for?

Thanks

The American VSX-1021-K is the same as the European VSX-921-K.
I believe the K stands for the colour black.
post #393 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by headpres View Post

How do you guys display the input "BD/CATV/DVD" on TV when switching between inputs on the receiver?
I cant find in the manual

I believe this receiver cannot do this. The setup menu is the only on screen display. It does not display the selected input or volume on the TV.
post #394 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtphl View Post


So what does the K stand for?

Thanks

I always assumed the 'K' simply meant black. Years ago Pioneer offered black and silver models. The silver models had 'S' in the model number while the black had 'K'.
post #395 of 2588
Did place an order today on a Pioneer vsx-1021 to replace my old HK AVR7000
Hopefully it will work just fine with my BDP-320.
Let´s hope it will peform just fine.
It´s brand new over here in Sweden so there is not much reviews out yet.
post #396 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkrambo View Post

I believe this receiver cannot do this. The setup menu is the only on screen display. It does not display the selected input or volume on the TV.

That's odd, mine does display receiver volume on screen. It could be something my TV does through the audio return channel, and not something the 1021 does. But a black box appears on my screen saying "Receiver XX", with the X's being a numerical value of the volume. My TV is new as well, so I'm not fully dialed in on either unit, and specifically which one is presenting this on screen display of volume level.
post #397 of 2588
I read most of this thread, and since I found out some useful information, I feel obliged to contribute my own experience, as it might be useful to someone else. I'll probably cross-post this on Amazon.

Set-up:
-Mirage left, right, center, sub in living room
-Mirage stereo in Zone 2 in several rooms
-Samsung 42" HD, HDMI
-Apple TV (first gen) HDMI
-Toshiba DVD (ancient, circa 2000) component/coaxial
-Apple: iPad, Mac OS desktops and laptops
-Trendnet TEW-640MB ethernet to wireless access point

Primary use-cases:
-Play music through Airplay for hours at a time to Zone 2. Generally from desktop, but also through iPad.
-watch occasional movie on Apple TV, or DVD

Playing music via Airplay and Zone2 are the main reasons I selected this model, the iPad remote control was one of the factors that gave this favor over the comparable Denon. I don't consider the iPad app as just cool factor; Zone2 volume control without having to walk back and forth across the entire apartment is useful.

Yes, as many have already said, setting this up takes some effort. Setting up the physical speaker wires and setting the mode to Zone2 was relatively straight-forward, as my configuration matched one of the pre-sets. Getting the Airplay to function in a usable fashion takes even more than the basic set-up. It can be frustrating, to the point that I considered returning the unit several times (and still might do so) and either try the Denon, or wait until there are more mature products.

Main tips in regards to Airplay - make sure your network, if there's wi-fi involved, is solid. You can't blame the Pioneer for network drop-outs. ChicagoSteve's 5/15 post is exhaustive in this regard, if you live in a city, there is a lot of interference. It's annoying that AVRs with Airplay (the Denon also) don't have built-in wifi. Airplay from the desktop seems to stream to the receiver at 110-150KB p/s.

Set the Network Standby to on - this feature allows the iPad app or Airplay to wake-up the Pioneer.

Give the Pioneer a static IP - this requires some know-how. You need to set the static IP in the Pioneer's settings, and on your router side, fix the IP per the Pioneer's MAC address. Otherwise, with a new IP each time it turns on, I found myself going to the network information screen and having to retype it into the iPad app.

There's something called HMG (Home Media Gallery), it's confusing, as this is the input where Airplay operates through. You can rename this using the iPad app to "Airplay" so when it's selected it says Airplay. If you have the TV on, you'll see it starts a 'server' (rather than merely switching inputs). It seems this server sometimes crashes and a few times have had to reboot the receiver, as switching to DVD and back wasn't enough to revive Airplay. At least once HMG has crashed, then upon restarting the receiver and HMG, it still was not on the network. For the more advanced users, you can open a terminal and ping the device on your network, once you know the static IP. So in this case the HMG screen was on the TV, but the pings were returning nothing. The iPad app shows an error, it can not find the MAC address of the device. I checked the ethernet access point with a laptop and it was operating fine. The fix I found in this case, is to open the network settings and save a new IP address, switch back to your old IP address, turn off the device, this seems to really restart the network function. In the manual there is something about holding the power button down for 10 seconds, which might do the same thing, but it mentioned losing settings.

If you use Apple desktop/laptops, look into something called Airfoil, which allows you to use non-iTunes apps with Airplay. (You can play music from videos in your web browser, or from streaming audio apps like Pandora or Rdio). The Pioneer treats it the same as regular Airplay stream.

So Far:
-Random crashes of HMG server, which removes receiver from network, requiring going to the receiver to revive (either by switching to other inputs and back, or more difficult restart as detailed above).
-Airplay from desktop (next to the wireless router) works quite well
-Airplay from iPad/roving laptops is less good, mainly because of wifi
-Control from the iPad app is OK, though the above mentioned crashes lead it back to the configuration step. I've seen the error dialog box far too many times (can't find product on network). Sometimes the iPad app will show one of the zones as turned on and set to a specific volume, when in fact it's turned off (it gets out of sync if you turn off the receiver manually, or if it auto shuts off), so you have to switch it on/off to get control back.
-I've watched a few movies on Apple TV, works as should.

Negatives:
-BUG: There's an auto-shut off feature, with separate times for main and Zone2 (eg. 60 minutes for main, up to 3 hours for Zone2). This sounds good, I want to save power. While playing Airplay music, if I have it set for 30 minutes on Zone2, it will turn off while playing music after 30 minutes (or 1hr, etc). This bug does not affect the main zone shut off. Wondering if anyone else has this problem? Besides firmware, what could cause/fix this? Turns out on further inspection of the manual, Zone2 will turn off even if you are playing music...

-Having the HMG server not function should not require 15 minutes to reset/debug. This is the main reason I am considering not keeping this unit.

-The OSD is certainly 1993-style ugly, it doesn't make sense these are designed for HDTVs through HDMI and have such low res graphics (the cnet review bagged on the Denon for this also).

-The lack of Zone2 support for HDMI inputs seems like a moderate-serious negative for anyone using a lot of Zone2. In the manual it's mentioned only on one line, so if you don't do your homework, you might spend time figuring out why you can't hear your DVDs in Zone2.

-Having the LCD (and iPad app) demo mode text on by default is stupid. Why put every user through this hassle? Does Pioneer think any potential customer is swayed by goofy scrolling text on the LCD? It's no longer 1982.

Other Thoughts:
This is in the first generation of AVRs with Airplay. In tech, we all know what first generation means. The problem is you might have this AVR for 5 or 10 years, and Airplay and the iPad are going to be completely different, and certainly more sophisticated. Considering the level of effort to learn this and to get this product to work properly with Airplay, and perhaps the continued annoyance after everything is figured out over 5 years, many people will decide it's not worth it.

We are used to Apple releasing continuous software updates, but the electronics companies not as much. I would be willing to support continued updates of the iPad app by paying $10-20 for major releases if my older receiver was supported. If I felt fairly sure Pioneer would improve the software over the next year or so, I would be much happier with the purchase.

Good luck to everyone with their VSX-1021!
post #398 of 2588
Hi...
Got my 1021 yoday and eveything works fine exept one thing...
Is there any way to get the satelite tv signal to the TV if the reciver is "off"?
Sat decoder is connected by HDMI and i get 5.1 sound and all when reciver is on,but when turned "off" no TV picture? what i´m i missing?
post #399 of 2588
I've been using my 1021 for 3 days now. I have not been able to get HDMI passthrough to work either. I read somewhere earlier in this thread that is more the TV and not the receiver. I have an 8 month old, 50" panasonic plasma that apparently doesn't have HDMI control? I dunno. Everything else has worked perfect for me. I have the receiver on my network via ethernet and airplay has worked from my iphone without a hitch every time. Internet radio has been flawless. Granted I haven't had the receiver for that long but so far so good. One question I did have is which listening mode do you guys use? Do you find yourself constantly changing it or do you just leave it in auto?
post #400 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkamo View Post

Yes you can. All new models feature HDMI Pass Through...

Chris Walker
Pioneer Electronics

Tell me how to get it to work with my PDP-427XD.
Just spoke to pioneer sweden and it still not working.
There is no picture from my satelite box when reciver is turned off.
post #401 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by staabd1 View Post

Keep in mind, my first VSX-1021 installed and set-up without a hitch (except MCACC showed one speaker out of phase...which it wasn't)
Since everything is now working fine with my Denon AVR-1912, including HDMI passthrough, I'm not sure how all this will help, but here's my basic set-up:
TV: Sony Grand Wega KF50WE610 (Connected via Philips High-Speed Certified HDMI - w/Required HDMI-DVI Converter)
BluRay: Magnavox NB500MGIF (Connected via Philips High-Speed Certified HDMI)
Cable/DVR: Motorola DCX3400 (Connected via Philips High-Speed Certified HDMI)
Speakers: Front - Cerwin Vega RE 30 Series; Center - Sennet Concepts SH44; Surround-Polk TL1;
Zone2 Speakers - Infinity Outriggers
No Subwoofer...yet
Replacing old receiver: Sony STR-D790 (from mid 1990's)

I have an older Motorola HD box with DVI (no HDMI) that I can't get to work with the VSX-1021-K, no video using a DVI-HDMI cable from HD box to receiver (HDMI from receiver to tv). Going straight to tv from HD box is fine...
post #402 of 2588
^^^

given the struggles that many cable boxes still have today (and yes, it's the cable box, not the avr), i'd be more surprised if your box actually DID work with a repeater in the middle...
post #403 of 2588
^^^

I'm thinking it may be a HDCP thing. I have the previous model to the 1021-K (the 1020) that works fine with the new HD-PVR Motorola box (HDMI). Wondering if it might be the DVI-HDMI cable...
post #404 of 2588
^^^

yup, it's definitely a hdcp thing...

and there's no rhyme or reason sometimes as to why one cable box works and another doesn't... i've had the same box "not work" with one avr and "work" with another... and then another box do exactly the opposite...

unfortunately, it's a long standing issue with cable boxes... heck, d* has known about their issue for years and not done anything about it...

just be glad you aren't hooking up a htpc... they are even worse than cable boxes (if that's possible)...

does your old box have component output? if so, just use component/spdif instead of the dvi connection...
post #405 of 2588
^^^

How do you think the picture quality would compare between the two? I can run the DVI-HDMI straight to the TV easily or would the Component to receiver (which converts/switches to HDMI) to TV be as good a picture?
post #406 of 2588
^^^

going component to the avr will yield the same pq as going hdmi (or dvi) would... there's no difference either way...

that's the one saving grace of all of this... you get the same picture quality using the old school connections...

LOTS of people do it this way, simply because LOTS of set top boxes are recalcitrant pieces of crap...

edit: for those following along... component (the red/green/blue 3 wire connection), not composite (the single yellow wire)... just to make sure everyone is on the same page...
post #407 of 2588
^^^

Even with the crappy Component cable that came with the set top box? Is there a general misconception that HDMI gives a better picture than Component?

That's the way to go then, one less wire going to TV (instead it's hidden away going from set top box to receiver) and one less input (on TV) for the Harmony remote to have to switch. Of course I could get a new set top box with HDMI but I'd rather not give the manufacturers of these things the idea they're producing good products.
post #408 of 2588
^^^

yup, even the crappy cables that came with the set top box... those will work just fine...

as far as "better pq through hdmi"... in this case, no, because the highest resolution you need to pass is 1080i...

edit: hdmi (digital) is needed for hdcp... technically, analog would support higher resolutions and framerates...
post #409 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by brettpearce View Post

^^^

Even with the crappy Component cable that came with the set top box? Is there a general misconception that HDMI gives a better picture than Component?

That's the way to go then, one less wire going to TV (instead it's hidden away going from set top box to receiver) and one less input (on TV) for the Harmony remote to have to switch. Of course I could get a new set top box with HDMI but I'd rather not give the manufacturers of these things the idea they're producing good products.

Have you asked your cable company for an updated box?


Michael
post #410 of 2588
I have an unusual problem that I can't figure out. I've set up the receiver and everything sounds great, but every 2-3 minutes the volume automatically decreases 3-4 decibels. It continues until the volume is all the way down if I don't manually turn it up afterward. It happens on every input and listening mode (I have 4 hdmi inputs, no analog so I haven't tried those). I even pulled the batteries from the remote to make sure it wasn't a bad remote sending a signal. I can't imagine this is a setting anywhere, and I'm thinking the unit is defective. Has anyone experienced this?
post #411 of 2588
Is there any way to use the ARC and not have the AVR auto switch to the TV/SAT input? I have a single HDMI to my TV and whenever the whole system is turned on the TV controls the AVR and forces it to TV/SAT, while my Directv source goes in the DVR input. I know the control through HDMI has to be on to utilize the ARC (mainly for Internet TV through my TV), but having it default to the TV/SAT input is very frustrating, and making it nearly impossible to get my Harmony remote to make my system turn on to all the proper settings.

So I either need to find a way to make it stop switching the input, or make my Directv come through the TV/SAT input. Can either be done? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm pulling my hair out over this one!
post #412 of 2588
^^^

nope, it's "working as designed"...

workarounds...

- use the tv/sat input instead of the dvr input...

- build enough of a delay into the activity startup sequence to allow the avr to complete it's input switching before you issue the command to switch to the input you want...

i'd choose "a"...

actually, i'd turn off hdmi control and simply use an spdif cable from the tv to the avr...
post #413 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^

nope, it's "working as designed"...

workarounds...

- use the tv/sat input instead of the dvr input...

- build enough of a delay into the activity startup sequence to allow the avr to complete it's input switching before you issue the command to switch to the input you want...

i'd choose "a"...

actually, i'd turn off hdmi control and simply use an spdif cable from the tv to the avr...


Thanks for the quick reply. I figured it's doing exactly what it was supposed to be doing. I'm confused about solution "a" though, I don't see a tv/sat input, and the manual says it's unassinable when you have control via HDMI on. So how do I switch it from dvr to tv/sat?

Ultimately I think you're probably right, I was shopping for an optical cable so I could switch off control via HDMI. It's just a bit of a pain, all my components are in the room directly above my tv, so I'd have to pull another cable. But, I purposefully left it all open for a while just in case I decided I need another cable of some kind, I was just hoping I wouldn't have to do that.

Anyway, thanks again.
post #414 of 2588
Greetings, long time lurker but now that I bought a house and am doing some remodeling, it's time to get serious about my AV setup.

Installed ceiling speakers in my kitchen and need to drive those as well as the Samsung flat panel/associated tower speakers in living rm (on other side of wall). Ceiling speakers are notorious for being weak on bass so I was hoping to attach the sub to run on Zone 2 (or as a Speaker B setup) so the kitchen will get fuller sound.

Has anyone tried or know if the sub is assignable to Zone 2/B? It would be nice to have the sub playing with kitchen ceiling speakers without having to play the same source in living rm just to get the sub to fill in.

I suppose an alternative might be to have the living rm as Zone 2 since it's only a 2.0 (for now) and kitchen as main zone. Are there inherent sound quality differences btwn main and zone 2?
post #415 of 2588
^^^

no. you can't do that.

put the sub in the living room... and leave the main room as the main zone...

live with whatever you get in the kitchen...

sound quality difference will be that you would not be able to apply mcacc (or bass management) to zone 2...
post #416 of 2588
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiffer1 View Post

I have an unusual problem that I can't figure out. I've set up the receiver and everything sounds great, but every 2-3 minutes the volume automatically decreases 3-4 decibels. It continues until the volume is all the way down if I don't manually turn it up afterward. It happens on every input and listening mode (I have 4 hdmi inputs, no analog so I haven't tried those). I even pulled the batteries from the remote to make sure it wasn't a bad remote sending a signal. I can't imagine this is a setting anywhere, and I'm thinking the unit is defective. Has anyone experienced this?

Haven't seen that yet but I have seen where if u r using Airplay and u adjust the volume on the device connected via Airplay the receiver volume makes a big adjustment too. Also, when using Airplay in Zone 2, the main zone power comes on (if it already isn't) and the input switches to H.M.G.
post #417 of 2588
Looking to eventually upgrade the speakers, but my receiver needed an upgrade first. I just purchased the 1021...

Current Setup 5.1:
- Klipsch KSB 3.1 Mains
- Klipsch KSC-C1 Center
- Klipsch KSB-S1 Surrounds
- Klipsch KSW-300 (15" powered sub)

I've been doing some tweaks and adjustments but just don't seem to be truly happy yet. I ran MCACC setup and it seemed to do pretty descent. Sub seems to have really dropped off and his seem a little to high. I currently have the Phase control on.

Just looking for suggestions and or some different things to try.
post #418 of 2588
Hi all...
Does anyone know if it´s possible to get the 1021 to play files from the HMG stored on another patition on my comp rather then /windows/music folder.
I cant se anywhere that you can specific tell the amp in what folder to look for the mp.3 etc.
post #419 of 2588
Just hooked up my VSX-1021 last week and it is amazing. iPad apps and the Zone 2 options are really what I got it for. However, I am trying to figure out how to disable the subwoofer when I only have Zone 2 on. I have outside speakers connected to Zone 2 and when they are playing and the main speakers are off, I hear the subwoofer for the music playing through Zone 2.

Any help would be appreciated.
post #420 of 2588
^^^

now THAT is really odd... the sub is slaved to the main zone...

zone 2, right? not "speaker b"?

how do you have the amplifiers configured?
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