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Official Chase Home Theater Owners Thread - Page 3

post #61 of 411
3/24/11 at 4:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
They're wood, sanded and painted/finished. I put some felt pads on the feet and stood the subs upright. This is one of the only two pics I have, taken when I was unboxing the subs. (The other one looks pretty much the same.)
Well, the feet certainly are an improvement, looks like some spikes would mount up easy enough. My subs use spikes, helps keep the sound and the sub anchored. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=240-715
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post #62 of 411
3/24/11 at 4:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridapoolboy View Post
... looks like some spikes would mount up easy enough. ... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=240-715
Those spikes look pretty sharp. (No pun intended. ) And, yeah, I think they'd screw into the SS-18.T's feet pretty easily. Hmmm...
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post #63 of 411
3/24/11 at 4:55pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridapoolboy View Post
Well, the feet certainly are an improvement, looks like some spikes would mount up easy enough. My subs use spikes, helps keep the sound and the sub anchored. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=240-715
I like the look of those. It says they are adjustable, do you know how tall you can make them?

Thanks.
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post #64 of 411
3/24/11 at 8:26pm
It would be cool if I could get square black feet that screw in for my 18.1 Im gonna have to see how to do that exactly, that way they will look similar to these newer ones, although I am very happy with the finish on this one it's smoother and cleaner than the original 18.1 was.
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post #65 of 411
3/24/11 at 8:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matman1970 View Post

I like the look of those. It says they are adjustable, do you know how tall you can make them?

Thanks.

No, I don't own these particular ones, they just caught my eye in the catalog.
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post #66 of 411
3/25/11 at 12:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

Those spikes look pretty sharp. (No pun intended. ) And, yeah, I think they'd screw into the SS-18.T's feet pretty easily. Hmmm...

Sharp enough to gouge the heck out of your floor! Also, coupling spikes are in direct opposition to the concept of de-coupling your sub from the room, such as an Auralex Gramma would do.

I use vinyl bump on feet for my front mounted subs. I do like Lurkerage's idea of screw in rubber feet, I might try that on my Series 2's
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post #67 of 411
3/25/11 at 7:15am
oh I dunno...those original round feet peg things were so sexy....and unique. i'll be they cost extra to do that kind of workmanship too :-) just sayin
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post #68 of 411
3/25/11 at 7:33am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure-Evil View Post

oh I dunno...those original round feet peg things were so sexy....and unique. i'll be they cost extra to do that kind of workmanship too :-) just sayin


I have already renamed the 18.T Series 2 the 18.T Vintage 1954 Leg Edition and I plan to be on Antiques Roadshow around 2025 and getting offered $50,000.00....meanwhile PE will be watching this on TV and splashing raindrop tears all over his little red riding hood sub while shaking his fists and cursing the fates.... :-) just sayin


I kid...I kid....PE your sub does look sweet from the picts I saw and I am glad you are enjoying it.
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post #69 of 411
3/25/11 at 7:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure-Evil View Post

oh I dunno...those original round feet peg things were so sexy....and unique. i'll be they cost extra to do that kind of workmanship too :-) just sayin


http://media.photobucket.com/image/c...ANKLES.jpg?o=3
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post #70 of 411
3/25/11 at 8:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

Those spikes look pretty sharp. (No pun intended. ) And, yeah, I think they'd screw into the SS-18.T's feet pretty easily. Hmmm...

I have two sets of those that I never used on my DIY sub project. They very nice spikes.
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post #71 of 411
3/25/11 at 9:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matman1970 View Post

I have already renamed the 18.T Series 2 the 18.T Vintage 1954 Leg Edition and I plan to be on Antiques Roadshow around 2025 and getting offered $50,000.00....meanwhile PE will be watching this on TV and splashing raindrop tears all over his little red riding hood sub while shaking his fists and cursing the fates.... :-) just sayin


I kid...I kid....PE your sub does look sweet from the picts I saw and I am glad you are enjoying it.

Matt, that is too funny! lmao!
"1954"!

You know, believe it or not, most either liked the woodgrain the way it was or opted to just use the front firing setup. Changing the feet to black was an option and certainly the easiest fix..but most preferred to keep them as-is or remove them. Go figure!

As far as Spikes go, if it is a carpeted floor then I wouldn't see a problem using them but I agree with Tesseract that the ideal is to "de-couple" the sub from the floor. So I would not use them on a wood floor or hard surface.
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post #72 of 411
3/25/11 at 2:02pm
LOL, High five, Matt! "splashing raindrop tears". I see fpb is linking pics of his personal conquests.

I am still deciding on whether or not I want to front fire with metal grills or down fire. While I like the brute force look of the front fire, I also like the hidden driven/mystery/ominous black cube look, too. Massive bass out of seemingly nowhere. They can also be stacked for an outrageous Monolith look. It is great to have options!
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post #73 of 411
3/25/11 at 3:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

LOL! High five, Matt. "splashing raindrop tears"

I am still deciding on whether or not I want to front fire with metal grills or down fire. While I like the brute force look of the front fire, I also like the hidden driven/mystery/ominous black cube look, too. Massive bass out of seemingly nowhere. They can also be stacked for an outrageous Monolith look. It is great to have options!

I did front firing for a while but seem to get a better sound and power down-firing.

Am I imagining this?
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post #74 of 411
3/25/11 at 3:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

I did front firing for a while but seem to get a better sound and power down-firing.

Am I imagining this?

It is hard to say without measurements to qualify. You may very well be getting more boundary reinforcement. If you like the way they look and sound...



I am liking the way these look with the drivers hidden. Now that they are broken in, I am starting to experiment more with placement.

I have mine in the corners facing the side walls, this would kind of be like down firing. I am definitely feeling more ULF, I am confident that measuring will bear this out. I am on my way to measure them right now. I can "only" measure down to 16hz, though.
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post #75 of 411
3/25/11 at 4:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

It is hard to say without measurements to qualify. You may very well be getting more boundary reinforcement. If you like the way they look and sound...



I am liking the way these look with the drivers hidden. Now that they are broken in, I am starting to experiment more with placement.

I have mine in the corners facing the side walls, this would kind of be like down firing. I am definitely feeling more ULF, I am confident that measuring will bear this out. I am on my way to measure them right now. I can "only" measure down to 16hz, though.

Measurements are good and all but I hope you are plotting on a computer graph so we can all over ANALyze and say you faked this or that
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post #76 of 411
3/25/11 at 4:37pm
Weird, each sub has been moved almost 2 feet over towards the side walls. I gained 3db at 16hz, but everything at 20hz and above mirrors exactly what I was getting before.

Maybe your subjective experience is correct, Husker. My impressions were borne out in measurement, more ULF.

My subjective feelings are now, that the subs are lagging behind the mains, as they are sitting behind the plane of the mains. Got a central air duct in the way, I can't pull the left sub forward without covering it. I don't want to heat my sub! The upside is that my B&W's now have more room to breathe and they sound better.

Another thing I am starting to play with is the PEQ. This thing is awesome, I may be able to get by without any bass management at all.
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post #77 of 411
3/25/11 at 4:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSDTrainer View Post

Measurements are good and all but I hope you are plotting on a computer graph so we can all over ANALyze and say you faked this or that

HA! I hear you.

I am using a Rat Shack meter, test tones CD, pen and paper. Trying to optimize the sound in my room, FTW.

I don't have Excel. I am trying Open Office (thanks Desertdome), but my computer isn't cooperating.

This does make me want a Velo SMS-1, though. Maybe someday.
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post #78 of 411
3/26/11 at 8:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

I see fpb is linking pics of his personal conquests.

LOL, the only way to find that pic would be knowing where to look
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post #79 of 411
3/26/11 at 12:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

It is hard to say without measurements to qualify. You may very well be getting more boundary reinforcement. If you like the way they look and sound...



I am liking the way these look with the drivers hidden. Now that they are broken in, I am starting to experiment more with placement.

I have mine in the corners facing the side walls, this would kind of be like down firing. I am definitely feeling more ULF, I am confident that measuring will bear this out. I am on my way to measure them right now. I can "only" measure down to 16hz, though.

um...don't they just look like black spray painted boxes?
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post #80 of 411
3/26/11 at 4:09pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

...... I can "only" measure down to 16hz, though.




Did I miss an "in" joke or is there a reason you stopped at 16hz.
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post #81 of 411
3/26/11 at 4:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matman1970 View Post



Did I miss an "in" joke or is there a reason you stopped at 16hz.

No joke, that is as far down as my R-DES test disc goes. Or rather, where it begins.
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post #82 of 411
3/27/11 at 12:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

No joke, that is as far down as my R-DES test disc goes. Or rather, where it begins.

I'm using the same disc. Made a graph of my readings, but really don't know what to do next as for as using the Eq.
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post #83 of 411
3/27/11 at 5:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tooskinny View Post
I'm using the same disc. Made a graph of my readings, but really don't know what to do next as for as using the Eq.
I found the biggest changes come from room positioning. Are you satisfied with the sub placement? If so, you are ready to dial your parameters in.

You have choices with the EQ. One is a fixed solution, the bass boost, another is the variable PEQ. You can also use the crossover point as a form of EQ, either the Dayton's or a receiver's.

The phase control can help you dial the subs back in time if they are sitting closer to you than the mains are. It cannot compensate for the mains being closer than the sub, it cannot dial the subs ahead in time, so set it to "0" if this is the case. If you have a receiver handling distance, set the phase to "0".

I picked out the most problematic room peak, around 40-60hz for me, and then pulled this down with the PEQ set right around 50hz, about a 3db cut. Bandwidth is set at .5 to reach neighboring problem FR. The bass boost switch helps lift the textbook sealed enclosure roll off down low.

Take a look at your graph and play around with your parameters a bit. Rather than run through all the test tones again, just rerun the problem frequencies and see what your new readings are, that will speed up the process. Rinse, wash, repeat until you like what you see and hear.

And as always, have fun.
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post #84 of 411
3/28/11 at 8:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

No joke, that is as far down as my R-DES test disc goes. Or rather, where it begins.

I have not tried any of theses yet, so a work of caution there.

But there are a lot of sine wave tones and sweeps on this website:

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm
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post #85 of 411
3/28/11 at 8:55am
I am running distortion tests with my sub system and I am testing just one sub. I want to find out what the limit is at 10hz and 10% distortion. So far I am at 108 db's at 10hz and 1.77% distortion from 14 feet away. My room gain is about 18db's at 10hz. I am posting all the info at CHT and my dual dts-10 and CS 18.2 thread. It will give me a good idea what a single is capable of with sine waves. Program material would be much easier to reproduce.
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post #86 of 411
3/28/11 at 11:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgebsl View Post

I have not tried any of theses yet, so a work of caution there.

But there are a lot of sine wave tones and sweeps on this website:

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm

Thanks. I've tried these, HTS downloads, Real Traps... my computer isn't letting me burn them. I have some troubleshooting to do here.

I'm not terribly concerned about anything below 16hz right now. All I have to measure with is a Rat Shack meter, so I wouldn't expect a lot of accuracy that low.

Hoping for an SMS-1 sometime in the future, although that doesn't get down real low either. I figure if I am flat at 15-16hz, I am good.
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post #87 of 411
3/28/11 at 2:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

I found the biggest changes come from room positioning. Are you satisfied with the sub placement? If so, you are ready to dial your parameters in.

You have choices with the EQ. One is a fixed solution, the bass boost, another is the variable PEQ. You can also use the crossover point as a form of EQ, either the Dayton's or a receiver's.

The phase control can help you dial the subs back in time if they are sitting closer to you than the mains are. It cannot compensate for the mains being closer than the sub, it cannot dial the subs ahead in time, so set it to "0" if this is the case. If you have a receiver handling distance, set the phase to "0".

I picked out the most problematic room peak, around 40-60hz for me, and then pulled this down with the PEQ set right around 50hz, about a 3db cut. Bandwidth is set at .5 to reach neighboring problem FR. The bass boost switch helps lift the textbook sealed enclosure roll off down low.

Take a look at your graph and play around with your parameters a bit. Rather than run through all the test tones again, just rerun the problem frequencies and see what your new readings are, that will speed up the process. Rinse, wash, repeat until you like what you see and hear.

And as always, have fun.

Craig helped me out with the settings after I sent him my graph. I have the series 1 sub with plate amp, so I don't have some of the settings you have.

Thanks for the reply.
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post #88 of 411
3/28/11 at 4:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tooskinny View Post

Craig helped me out with the settings after I sent him my graph. I have the series 1 sub with plate amp, so I don't have some of the settings you have.

Thanks for the reply.

You are welcome, tooskinny.
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post #89 of 411
3/29/11 at 12:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tesseract67 View Post

No joke, that is as far down as my R-DES test disc goes. Or rather, where it begins.

download the realtraps tones - they start at 10 Hz.
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post #90 of 411
3/29/11 at 12:44pm
Ahh Realm of Excursion I remember seeing that site, and I have burned test tones off of it before to see the performance of my car subs. They have all kinds of tones like pink noise and stuff too if I remember correctly, definitely handy if you are testing and adjusting.
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