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New Mach 5 Audio IXL info - Page 20

post #571 of 740
I'm aware of that. The principle still applies doesn't it? Oddly the impedance curve in Winisd is different than your above. I only see the one peak. After that is goes down and stays there forever.

In any case - sticking with 4 ohms, anyone care to validate my thought about the FP600Q for a pair w/ 5.5 ft? Gives a little more output, maintains excursion safety, and is less exposed to thermal limits than 4ft. Anything concerns I'm overlooking?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Impedance is not flat, it has a curve.
post #572 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

Thanks guys. I just finished reading through AVH's thread. about the clones. Lot's of good points made.
I'm modeling up some enclosure ideas - even if I wanted to go for 4 ft, the resulting box would have to be awfully squat front to back.

You say 2,000, but in reality it is a little more than that, right? The FP1KQ clone lists 2,100 watts at 4Ω and 2,500 at 2Ω. With the Re of the FTW-21 at 3.2Ω, the driver is seeing something closer to 2,260 watts. I'm not trying to split hairs, I'm just making sure I'm understanding correctly.
Quote:
...Its really just matching the enclosure to the amp not the enclosure alone.
This is making sense now... you were planning to make use of two FP1KQ's for your 8 FTW's. For my purposes, with only two FTW's planned, I ought to be thinking about the amplifier before setting my sights on a particular enclosure volume. The FP600Q clone looks pretty suitable with 3kW x 2 at 4Ω bridged. A 5.5ft box would put xmax at just over 5hz and 40mm at 3.5hz.

You need to remember that you cant run these amps at 2ohm stereo or 4ohm bridged. You need to pick them amp you want by either 4 ohm stereo or 8ohm bridged.

And yes the peak output is over 2000 watts but rarely will peak output be reached as that is a fine line between clipping the amp and frying the subs. I, like many others, just use these numbers to keep the drivers safe in the enclosure size.

If you are going to use these for music and HT I would opt for a larger enclosure but for HT I would think the small enclosure work work fine without worrying about any thermal damages. That is what Scott and I kept on talking about so much in the thread where I was trying to determine an amp and enclosure match.
post #573 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

I'm aware of that. The principle still applies doesn't it? Oddly the impedance curve in Winisd is different than your above. I only see the one peak. After that is goes down and stays there forever.
In any case - sticking with 4 ohms, anyone care to validate my thought about the FP600Q for a pair w/ 5.5 ft? Gives a little more output, maintains excursion safety, and is less exposed to thermal limits than 4ft. Anything concerns I'm overlooking?

No you are looking at the wrong ohm load to run these amps. Sorry I posted the answer for you while you were typing.

Look at the above post.
post #574 of 740
Thread Starter 
A bridged ep4000 is almost perfect with these drivers in a 7CF box if you don't want to go the clone route.
post #575 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

You need to remember that you cant run these amps at 2ohm stereo or 4ohm bridged. You need to pick them amp you want by either 4 ohm stereo or 8ohm bridged.

Ah... I didn't realize that.
post #576 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

I'm aware of that. The principle still applies doesn't it? Oddly the impedance curve in Winisd is different than your above. I only see the one peak. After that is goes down and stays there forever.
In any case - sticking with 4 ohms, anyone care to validate my thought about the FP600Q for a pair w/ 5.5 ft? Gives a little more output, maintains excursion safety, and is less exposed to thermal limits than 4ft. Anything concerns I'm overlooking?

If you're talking about the rise in impedance in the higher frequencies... that's the effect inductance in the coil. A lot of people don't model for inductance effects.
post #577 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

A bridged ep4000 is almost perfect with these drivers in a 7CF box if you don't want to go the clone route.

+1 biggrin.gif

Familiar advice... cool.gif
post #578 of 740
1 briged ep4k per driver?

N8DOGG, what do you mean by almost perfect?

Looking back at the FP6000Q - 8 ohms bridged at 2,500x2 seems viable.
post #579 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

1 briged ep4k per driver?

Correct.

I played the HTTYD dragon crash scene at +7 above reference yesterday. They handled that scene with no problem. No HPF with Audyssey EQ + my own EQ on top of that.
post #580 of 740
Thread Starter 
Meaning that in a 7CF box, the driver can take all the power of the ep4000 and not drive it to over excursion. It's a set it and forget it amp with that driver in that box. I ran my 2 FTW21's and my 2 x mal-x 21's off ep4000 bridged each. Even with my clone's I have now, there isn't much difference in sound until you hit the 17hz and below. BUT with the clones, you have to watch and have a HPF because they can nuke the driver with a strong enough signal. I still have all 8 of my ep4000-2500's) and have no plan on selling them. I love those amps. in 8 years not 1 issue with my 4 ep2500's and not 1 issue in the last 3-4 years with my other 4 x ep4000's.
I used to run my ep's well over reference also. sometimes +10dB's just to get a laugh on how nuts it is. smile.gif
post #581 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

You need to remember that you cant run these amps at 2ohm stereo or 4ohm bridged. You need to pick them amp you want by either 4 ohm stereo or 8ohm bridged.

Not sure if there's a law against it but I've run 2 of them 4 ohms bridged for 2 years with no problems. They have VPL, a Voltage Peak Limiter circuit with quite a few options in dip switches on the rear panel. That would be the correct way to match "amp to cabinet". Still, I've run one of them in 4 ohms bridged with the VPL set at the highest level and with every source available.

I think the proper caution would be to not run them in 2 ohms with a sine wave torture test (the only instance of a clone biting the dust I'm aware of), but that goes for all of the hardware in your system.
post #582 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by dominguez1 View Post

Correct.
I played the HTTYD dragon crash scene at +7 above reference yesterday. They handled that scene with no problem. No HPF with Audyssey EQ + my own EQ on top of that.

Since that scene is hot to 2 Hz, you'll have to be more specific before I can swallow the "no problem" part. smile.gif
post #583 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

Since that scene is hot to 2 Hz, you'll have to be more specific before I can swallow the "no problem" part. smile.gif
True that. smile.gif

No problem in this context means no bottoming out/bad noises. No idea what kind of output I'm getting down in the 'abyss' territory.
post #584 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

Not sure if there's a law against it but I've run 2 of them 4 ohms bridged for 2 years with no problems. They have VPL, a Voltage Peak Limiter circuit with quite a few options in dip switches on the rear panel. That would be the correct way to match "amp to cabinet". Still, I've run one of them in 4 ohms bridged with the VPL set at the highest level and with every source available.
I think the proper caution would be to not run them in 2 ohms with a sine wave torture test (the only instance of a clone biting the dust I'm aware of), but that goes for all of the hardware in your system.

Well, Its been stated in the FP thread atleast a couple dozen times that they shouldnt be ran in 2ohm stereo or 4ohm bridged so just passing along what everyone else is assuming. Did you get your clones from sanway? I thought you were using clones but didnt realize they were from sanway as well. Which amps are you running 4ohm bridged? I have my switches set to 150v and can easily clip all four channels of each of my FP10000s. If there werent so many advising against it I would have considered different options matching my drivers to amps if 4ohm bridged is safe.
post #585 of 740
What am I missing? In 7 cubes the FTW hits x-max at 3hz with just 1500 watts. The Behringer's claim of 4kW peaks in bridge mode would put xmax at 27.7hz. Even their stated RMS of 2.4kW in this config hits 34mm at 5.6hz. I know that roll-off within the signal chain will limit some of this, but enough?

I'm sure I'm missing something fundamental here.cool.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Meaning that in a 7CF box, the driver can take all the power of the ep4000 and not drive it to over excursion. It's a set it and forget it amp with that driver in that box. I ran my 2 FTW21's and my 2 x mal-x 21's off ep4000 bridged each. Even with my clone's I have now, there isn't much difference in sound until you hit the 17hz and below. BUT with the clones, you have to watch and have a HPF because they can nuke the driver with a strong enough signal. I still have all 8 of my ep4000-2500's) and have no plan on selling them. I love those amps. in 8 years not 1 issue with my 4 ep2500's and not 1 issue in the last 3-4 years with my other 4 x ep4000's.
I used to run my ep's well over reference also. sometimes +10dB's just to get a laugh on how nuts it is. smile.gif
post #586 of 740
Thread Starter 
it only puts out 1900 actual watts. You will not hit 5hz with the ep4000 and hurt your sub. There is no need to worry. There is to much roll off to even worry about it.
post #587 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

Since that scene is hot to 2 Hz, you'll have to be more specific before I can swallow the "no problem" part. smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by dominguez1 View Post

True that. smile.gif
No problem in this context means no bottoming out/bad noises. No idea what kind of output I'm getting down in the 'abyss' territory.

I just played that scene and watched omnimic...so, if I had to guess based on omnimic, the SPL/Spectrum graph showed a reading of around 119db at 5hz. My assumption is that is a 'peak' scale. Generally speaking OM 'peak' and 'max' is around a 7-10db difference, so I'd say I was around 109-112db 'max' at 5hz. The highest max output achieved during that scene was 121db.

OM only measures to 5hz, so no idea what I'm getting below that...
post #588 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

Well, Its been stated in the FP thread atleast a couple dozen times that they shouldnt be ran in 2ohm stereo or 4ohm bridged so just passing along what everyone else is assuming. Did you get your clones from sanway? I thought you were using clones but didnt realize they were from sanway as well. Which amps are you running 4ohm bridged? I have my switches set to 150v and can easily clip all four channels of each of my FP10000s. If there werent so many advising against it I would have considered different options matching my drivers to amps if 4ohm bridged is safe.

I would almost figure with so much woofage, you would not come close to clipping the amps (each one working less for high SPL). Are you running hot, how about HPF?
post #589 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhisafa View Post

I would almost figure with so much woofage, you would not come close to clipping the amps (each one working less for high SPL). Are you running hot, how about HPF?

There isn't need for any filters as the amps run out of juice before the subs get close to xmax. That is y. I said that if could. Run these at 4ohms bridged i would have thought about a different amp/amps. Oh well. I might try bridging them and see what happens even though a different amp would have been better like boso said tho, i could lower the switch from 150v to next lower setting to help protect the drivers id want to try around 3000 watts n see how they handle it instead of the 5000 claimed per side.

They clip rather easily with music but haven't really tested movies as the amps aren't in the same room.

What are you all thoughts on 4 ohms bridged. I really don't even know why im thinking about it since so many including myself have advised against it. I don't remember boso coming in on it until now either. But he did post a lot back in the beginning of the FP thread about lots of different stuff.
post #590 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

There isn't need for any filters as the amps run out of juice before the subs get close to xmax. That is y. I said that if could. Run these at 4ohms bridged i would have thought about a different amp/amps. Oh well. I might try bridging them and see what happens even though a different amp would have been better like boso said tho, i could lower the switch from 150v to next lower setting to help protect the drivers id want to try around 3000 watts n see how they handle it instead of the 5000 claimed per side.
They clip rather easily with music but haven't really tested movies as the amps aren't in the same room.
What are you all thoughts on 4 ohms bridged. I really don't even know why im thinking about it since so many including myself have advised against it. I don't remember boso coming in on it until now either. But he did post a lot back in the beginning of the FP thread about lots of different stuff.

I was the one who posted the test result during which the clone crapped out. It was a stereo 2 ohm sine wave torture test (that is, a sine wave input driving the amp to clipping). The comment was "inadequate protection", IIRC. That test happened in April 2010. It was an FP10000Q clone, but I don't know from which agent it was purchased. The test was done in England, which I believe is 230V-50 Hz. The tested amp met output specs in 4 ohm stereo, 8 ohm stereo and 8 ohm bridged. It "buggered out" in 2 ohm stereo.

That's pretty much all I said on the subject because that's pretty much all I know on the subject. The rest is conjecture, hearsay, recommendation, etc., based on zero experiences or facts as they would relate to JT's version of the clones, as far as I'm aware.

I've never used a 4 channel version. I tested several amps of a similar platform from different Asian factories that did not blatantly copy Lab's case design. The Lab clone amps I bought from Sanway were FP9K and the original K12K, which is what I suspect you all are using, re-badged as the FP14K. I bought them in July 2010, around a year before the clone thread. I suggested Sanway to not, who was looking at a couple of other agents that I was aware of as not being trustworthy.

Those back door factories can and will, without notice or disclaimer, use counterfeit parts. Important parts, like, for one example, the output transistors. I've seen output transistors that are warped like a banana (instead of perfectly flat as they should be) and obviously would not be able to make proper contact with the heat sink. That's the sort of thing that can lead to failure regardless of heat sink design and/or fans used or mode of operation, but can be blamed on many other things without a thorough investigation.

Math tells me that the FP9k is only about -2dB less rated output than the FP14K, so it was a simple choice for me. I've used 2 of them extensively. I used one to run 8x15. I had a couple of them arrive with defective VPL, but since then have learned how they work and affected a fairly simple repair.

Again, I'm not familiar with the Quad channel versions. Are you (or anyone else) running them in dual 8 ohm bridged vs quad single channel? Mainly I ask to remind you that the VPL dip switch settings values double when in bridged mode. So, 150V becomes 300V, which is essentially equal to disabling the VPL.

I'm always a bit stunned at folks who purchase such serious hardware, hook it up and let it rip without understanding the operational nuances. When I read posts with "easily clipped" and "easily bottomed" with no AC/settings/connections details, It all sounds pretty crazy to me. LMS Ultras and FP14K clones are not easily bottomed or clipped in any circumstance, so those situations need to be immediately investigated in detail.

Ilkka poured 3600W of long term sine wave into a single LMS-U in 3.5 cubes. There was no bottoming or clipping to 10 Hz. Below 10 Hz, folks who claim reproduction with no problem need to post the entire chain of hardware up to and including the sub, but short of that (because I doubt it will ever become the norm), they are not seeing much below 10 Hz from the typical system, which is down as much as -20dB by 5 Hz and the hardware does not perform the same at 5 Hz as it does at 20 Hz (that's why the benchmark for specs begins at 20 Hz). L/T and/or Audyssey boost is another wrinkle most don't fully grasp the mechanics of. Looking at a WinISD "prediction" is useless. Modeling software crunches the math. It assumes signal integrity to DC amplified by an alien amp that gives unlimited power with no changes in waveform to DC into a driver that keeps its T/S parameters intact at any level with any input source.

Sorry I'm cramming too much into a single post, but i won't likely be able to follow up post, so trying to cover a lot of bases at once. All of which is just my take, YMMV, etc.
post #591 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

I was the one who posted the test result during which the clone crapped out. It was a stereo 2 ohm sine wave torture test (that is, a sine wave input driving the amp to clipping). The comment was "inadequate protection", IIRC. That test happened in April 2010. It was an FP10000Q clone, but I don't know from which agent it was purchased. The test was done in England, which I believe is 230V-50 Hz. The tested amp met output specs in 4 ohm stereo, 8 ohm stereo and 8 ohm bridged. It "buggered out" in 2 ohm stereo.
That's pretty much all I said on the subject because that's pretty much all I know on the subject. The rest is conjecture, hearsay, recommendation, etc., based on zero experiences or facts as they would relate to JT's version of the clones, as far as I'm aware.
I've never used a 4 channel version. I tested several amps of a similar platform from different Asian factories that did not blatantly copy Lab's case design. The Lab clone amps I bought from Sanway were FP9K and the original K12K, which is what I suspect you all are using, re-badged as the FP14K. I bought them in July 2010, around a year before the clone thread. I suggested Sanway to not, who was looking at a couple of other agents that I was aware of as not being trustworthy.
Those back door factories can and will, without notice or disclaimer, use counterfeit parts. Important parts, like, for one example, the output transistors. I've seen output transistors that are warped like a banana (instead of perfectly flat as they should be) and obviously would not be able to make proper contact with the heat sink. That's the sort of thing that can lead to failure regardless of heat sink design and/or fans used or mode of operation, but can be blamed on many other things without a thorough investigation.
Math tells me that the FP9k is only about -2dB less rated output than the FP14K, so it was a simple choice for me. I've used 2 of them extensively. I used one to run 8x15. I had a couple of them arrive with defective VPL, but since then have learned how they work and affected a fairly simple repair.
Again, I'm not familiar with the Quad channel versions. Are you (or anyone else) running them in dual 8 ohm bridged vs quad single channel? Mainly I ask to remind you that the VPL dip switch settings values double when in bridged mode. So, 150V becomes 300V, which is essentially equal to disabling the VPL.
I'm always a bit stunned at folks who purchase such serious hardware, hook it up and let it rip without understanding the operational nuances. When I read posts with "easily clipped" and "easily bottomed" with no AC/settings/connections details, It all sounds pretty crazy to me. LMS Ultras and FP14K clones are not easily bottomed or clipped in any circumstance, so those situations need to be immediately investigated in detail.
Ilkka poured 3600W of long term sine wave into a single LMS-U in 3.5 cubes. There was no bottoming or clipping to 10 Hz. Below 10 Hz, folks who claim reproduction with no problem need to post the entire chain of hardware up to and including the sub, but short of that (because I doubt it will ever become the norm), they are not seeing much below 10 Hz from the typical system, which is down as much as -20dB by 5 Hz and the hardware does not perform the same at 5 Hz as it does at 20 Hz (that's why the benchmark for specs begins at 20 Hz). L/T and/or Audyssey boost is another wrinkle most don't fully grasp the mechanics of. Looking at a WinISD "prediction" is useless. Modeling software crunches the math. It assumes signal integrity to DC amplified by an alien amp that gives unlimited power with no changes in waveform to DC into a driver that keeps its T/S parameters intact at any level with any input source.
Sorry I'm cramming too much into a single post, but i won't likely be able to follow up post, so trying to cover a lot of bases at once. All of which is just my take, YMMV, etc.

So, what about the bridged 4 ohm load you mentioned earlier then?

I said I could easily clip my 2 FP10000s 220v with switch set to 150v running at 4ohm stereo all four channels. (I've covered all the settings and voltageof how I'm running these throughout the last couple of pages, so the details have been stated just not repeating them in every post)This is meant to read as it does. They will clip with music from a wide range in hz from say 40-80hz. It doesnt really matter what frequency they are playing and they will clip.Given this is at high volume levels but nowhere near the claimed output. But I am one of those that doesnt know nearly as much as others. I will have to try bridging them to disable the switch for sure.
post #592 of 740
AVH,

Have you metered your AVR's voltage output? Perhaps somewhere you are getting a drop in input voltage that is in turn not allowing the FP to output the maximum voltage. Amplifiers are just that, they amplify. you put in half the voltage needed to drive it to max output, you are only going to get half out. I was slightly frustrated for a long time this weekend when I was fiddling and couldnt get the proper output of my MBM and kept tweaking, and tweaking for at least 45 minutes, then I went back behind my rack and saw that RCA-->XLR cable I was using was a monoprice "crap-out" cable that was trash from the time I got it. switched it out with a properly done cable and BOOM I was back in business. It is amazing sometimes where you may be losing power to not allow your amp to really do what it is supposed to, but there are plenty of areas for it to happen, that is for sure... always remember though, garbage in, garbage out.

Another reason your amp could be clipping unecessarily is due to rediulous amounts of boost somewhere in the passband. you said you have audyssey and your own EQ working, perhaps you are sucking up a lot of the amp's power somewhere? This often times, can also be a huge amp drainer... try running no audyssey or EQ, while it might not sound as good to you, you might get more overall output. tweak accordingly smile.gif
post #593 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

AVH,
Have you metered your AVR's voltage output? Perhaps somewhere you are getting a drop in input voltage that is in turn not allowing the FP to output the maximum voltage. Amplifiers are just that, they amplify. you put in half the voltage needed to drive it to max output, you are only going to get half out. I was slightly frustrated for a long time this weekend when I was fiddling and couldnt get the proper output of my MBM and kept tweaking, and tweaking for at least 45 minutes, then I went back behind my rack and saw that RCA-->XLR cable I was using was a monoprice "crap-out" cable that was trash from the time I got it. switched it out with a properly done cable and BOOM I was back in business. It is amazing sometimes where you may be losing power to not allow your amp to really do what it is supposed to, but there are plenty of areas for it to happen, that is for sure... always remember though, garbage in, garbage out.
Another reason your amp could be clipping unecessarily is due to rediulous amounts of boost somewhere in the passband. you said you have audyssey and your own EQ working, perhaps you are sucking up a lot of the amp's power somewhere? This often times, can also be a huge amp drainer... try running no audyssey or EQ, while it might not sound as good to you, you might get more overall output. tweak accordingly smile.gif

I am pretty sure the avr output is fine. I can hook up one amp to one box (4 subs) and turn it up to -6 without any clipping. Then i can switch to the other amp and hook up the same box and it will clip about -10. I can hook them both up to both boxes and the bad amp will clip before the other I've switched all cables n outlets with same results. I did manage to get it a little better by trying different combinations but only by a couple dbs

I actually turned audyssey off and calibrated by mic the other day then hooked up the eqs from Stewart film screen. Think it sounds much better but still need external eq.

Im going to try to bridge them and see if that will raise the vpl limiter like bosso said. I know they can get plenty of juice from the outlets and 8 ohms bridged will be fine but still worried about trying 4ohms. I guess if still clip at 8ohms bridged then can gently try 4 ohms. Should i use a temp gun when testing or will it just heat up and die too quickly if its going to?
post #594 of 740
I've also quit getting support from tang. He sent me an email asking if i had tech that could replace faulty parts then the next email said it was normal and no more replies even though i told him it wasn't normal. I think they both clip well before the claimed output by a large margin. Don't get me wrong. They are worth the money but if it has a bad power supply then they should at least send the parts for me to pay someone to repair it.
post #595 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

So, what about the bridged 4 ohm load you mentioned earlier then?
I said I could easily clip my 2 FP10000s 220v with switch set to 150v running at 4ohm stereo all four channels. (I've covered all the settings and voltageof how I'm running these throughout the last couple of pages, so the details have been stated just not repeating them in every post)This is meant to read as it does. They will clip with music from a wide range in hz from say 40-80hz. It doesnt really matter what frequency they are playing and they will clip.Given this is at high volume levels but nowhere near the claimed output. But I am one of those that doesnt know nearly as much as others. I will have to try bridging them to disable the switch for sure.

Not sure i understand this post.

"what about 4 ohms bridged...?" Just what I said. If someone has a 14k and runs it 4 ohms bridged with the VPL set at its highest setting (195V), which is doubled by bridging (390V), he'd better be aware of what that means to the system as a whole. 390^2 divided by 4 ohms = 38,000 watts, so maybe this could explain amp problems into lower R.

Sorry, but I don't want to read pages and if I do my guess is you still don't have the needed data posted.

1) Do you run your amps 24/7 or do you shut them off after use?
2) If you shut them off, how long do you let them warm up before playing source?
3) Have you run a sine sweep through them?
4) What Vb/drivers are they driving in what connection scheme?
5) What connectors are used at the amps and the enclosures?
6) What's in the signal chain beyond player AVR amp (including auto-EQ, if any)?
7) When you say "clip", what actually indicates that to you? (there is a voltage peak indicator, clip limiter indicator, actual clip indicator and Temp indicator, which are all related)
8) Are all channels indicators triggered identically and at the same time?

That should get you headed in the right direction. Again, just my opinion, FWIW. Honestly, glancing at the situation is as you describe, there's no way I would continue to operate the system without getting to the bottom of it. But again, that's just me.
post #596 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

Not sure i understand this post.
"what about 4 ohms bridged...?" Just what I said. If someone has a 14k and runs it 4 ohms bridged with the VPL set at its highest setting (195V), which is doubled by bridging (390V), he'd better be aware of what that means to the system as a whole. 390^2 divided by 4 ohms = 38,000 watts, so maybe this could explain amp problems into lower R.

You said in the previous post that you've been running a clone in 4ohm bridged mode. I just asked which clone you've been running like this in the first post I replied to. The 4 channel amps only go up to 150v but still get the point. So I guess you turn the switch down?
Sorry, but I don't want to read pages and if I do my guess is you still don't have the needed data posted.
1) Do you run your amps 24/7 or do you shut them off after use?
I turn them off after use
2) If you shut them off, how long do you let them warm up before playing source?
Depends on the source. Movies like 5 minutes and music like 2-3 minutes
Depends on the source. Movies take at least 5 minutes I would guess. Music 2-3 minutes maybe
3) Have you run a sine sweep through them?
No I havent
4) What Vb/drivers are they driving in what connection scheme?
4 Mach 5 FTW 21's 4 subs per amp 4 channel 4ohm stereo
5) What connectors are used at the amps and the enclosures?
Straight 10 gauge wire from sub to amp with speakon connectors and XLR cables (I have many cables and have trouble shot them)
6) What's in the signal chain beyond player AVR amp (including auto-EQ, if any)?
No EQ yet
7) When you say "clip", what actually indicates that to you? (there is a voltage peak indicator, clip limiter indicator, actual clip indicator and Temp indicator, which are all related)
The subs sound and the VPL light lights up red and will depend on the volume how long it stays lit but breifly under 1.5 seconds I would say. There isnt an option to turn off the clip limiter on the FP10000 so not sure the actual clip light could even come on according to the manual VPL would have to be turned off for it to light up
8) Are all channels indicators triggered identically and at the same time?
If the gain knobs are in the exact same location then yes they light up across the green light spectrum pretty equally, but the #1 input on the bad amp that clips early clips before the other channels so I keep it about 25% down compared to the other 3 channels. The clip lits are triggered within a few db of the AVR gain knob from each other except for channel #1 which will be earlier. I'd say 1-1.5db variation between the clipping channels

That should get you headed in the right direction. Again, just my opinion, FWIW. Honestly, glancing at the situation is as you describe, there's no way I would continue to operate the system without getting to the bottom of it. But again, that's just me.

I will add that when the amps are first turned on they are much harder to clip.
I dont know if this matters but the db gain on the back of the amp is set to 23db
post #597 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

I will add that when the amps are first turned on they are much harder to clip.
I dont know if this matters but the db gain on the back of the amp is set to 23db

power up every thing pick a movie, clip the amp dont change anything volume wise unplug the 3 channels that didn't clip then let the amp cool down now play the same movie and see if it clips at the same place again. if it doesn't clip plug the other channels back in and make the amp clip again this time dont let it cool down and try to clip it again. i would do this in backwards order from how i explained but didn't want to fix it. this will let u know if its an cooling issue.

Also when clipping the amp use a voltage meter to test how many volts the amp is putting off while it is clipping. u should chose v ac >200 volts if your meter has the setting i would also check vdc while testing vac and post the results on here.
post #598 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookieattk View Post

Also when clipping the amp use a voltage meter to test how many volts the amp is putting off while it is clipping. u should chose v ac >200 volts if your meter has the setting i would also check vdc while testing vac and post the results on here.
Why? On the Vdc range it will be zero, unless the amp is faulty or you have a crap meter.
post #599 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post

Why? On the Vdc range it will be zero, unless the amp is faulty or you have a crap meter.

what! amps put off all types of dc into your speakers 0 is a mystical number known to very few amps its usually very small mv range 1-40mv. also when his amp is clipping its sending tons of dc that would fry any consumer mid woofer INSTANTLY.

say his dc offset is

channel 1 120mv
channel 2 20mv
channel 3 30mv
channel 4 60mv

something is very far out of spec with channel 1 if this were the case.

i have bunches of amps i have built diy passlabs f4,f5,dx blame, a lot of class d amps living in texas my class a amps only come out in the winter. all my diy amps are under 10mv and that's tuned by hand. i know my 2 channel emo i bought years back in the 40mv range.

also i wanted to know how much vdc it was sending out while it was clipping just b/c i was curious if it was even possible to kill his driver with it.
post #600 of 740
^^^ Flat topping of waveforms because of clipping in amps is not DC.

Offset voltage of more than a few mV indicates a faulty (or badly set up if DIY) amp, and this should be checked before a speaker is connected to it.
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