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New Mach 5 Audio IXL info - Page 21

post #601 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookieattk View Post

power up every thing pick a movie, clip the amp dont change anything volume wise unplug the 3 channels that didn't clip then let the amp cool down now play the same movie and see if it clips at the same place again. if it doesn't clip plug the other channels back in and make the amp clip again this time dont let it cool down and try to clip it again. i would do this in backwards order from how i explained but didn't want to fix it. this will let u know if its an cooling issue.
Also when clipping the amp use a voltage meter to test how many volts the amp is putting off while it is clipping. u should chose v ac >200 volts if your meter has the setting i would also check vdc while testing vac and post the results on here.

Where should I place the meter prongs? I'm using speakon connectors, so should I just go back a little to the actual wire and test the speaker wire before the connectors? Positive to positive and negative to negative?

The amp does not have regular speaker terminals only speakons.

I have done a test similar without a meter. I just tried to clip the other channels and the one channel and was able to do so each time at the same AVR db setting both ways.
post #602 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

Where should I place the meter prongs? I'm using speakon connectors, so should I just go back a little to the actual wire and test the speaker wire before the connectors? Positive to positive and negative to negative?
The amp does not have regular speaker terminals only speakons.
I have done a test similar without a meter. I just tried to clip the other channels and the one channel and was able to do so each time at the same AVR db setting both ways.

I'm curious about bridging it at both 8ohms and 4ohms.

If bridging it at 8ohms will give me a little more head room for the vcl then that would solve the problem if the amp is just outputting its max voltage for the 150v setting (which is the max setting). Is that correct? Although I dont understand how bridging it will change that from 150v to 300v squared devided by 8. I would think that it would make it 150v x2 which would still equal out to 300v but still devided into two subs. Thats where bosso confused me. I'm ignorant to how that works for sure. But if thats the case and how it works then

150x2, 300vsquared devided by 8ohms would bring the output up from aprox 2000 watts to aprox 5500 watts per driver which would be fine as long as I found their limits.
Edited by audiovideoholic - 6/16/12 at 12:52am
post #603 of 740
take the cable and there should be 2 wires strip a small section off and test between them dont short anything one probe to each wire and the wire different pair of wire nor the probes should touch each other.
post #604 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

Where should I place the meter prongs? I'm using speakon connectors, so should I just go back a little to the actual wire and test the speaker wire before the connectors? Positive to positive and negative to negative?
The amp does not have regular speaker terminals only speakons.
Speakons have screw terminals inside, so undo the bushing and slide the chuck back and measure onto the terminals in the Speakon.
Crown have a nifty little wiring guide that will make the visuals easier.

Make sure the probes don't bridge across terminals as this could short the amp (one probe touching 2 terminals at the same time). Tones are best for this test as rapidly changing source material levels will be too fast for a DVM to read as they usually take some time to respond and display. They will not track in real time in any useful way.
post #605 of 740
Saw an update on the IST site about the UXL-18 availability but there was something else mentioned that caught my eye ...
Quote:

IST Takes a Break - UXL-18 Coming Mid July

We are taking a much needed rest commencing
July 1 to July 15. Please note that phone calls
will not be answered during this period and only
limited Email.


When we get back, the UXL-18 will begin
production once again. We will be making slight
changes to it so keep your eye on the T/S
parameters.

Interesting. I wonder what changes will be made.
post #606 of 740
I hope they will still be good candidates for Riccis Gjalerhorn.
post #607 of 740
Thread Starter 
Don't expect much of a change. I think the real info here is that he's finally got all the parts to build again!!!
post #608 of 740
Lol, exactly. smile.gif
post #609 of 740
Still trying to decide between four UXLs and four FTWs. Good to see the UXLs may be shipping again soon smile.gif
post #610 of 740
Thread Starter 
Is it a cost factor VEXXD? Either way you go, it will be awesome!!
post #611 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Is it a cost factor VEXXD? Either way you go, it will be awesome!!

No, not really a cost factor. The difference between the two wouldn't break the bank. For me it's box size limitations. I'd have no problems with the FTWs up front, but I don't have room for 6 - 7 cu. ft. for the back pair. Max I could do for the rear boxes is ~ 5.8 cu. ft (not counting driver volume), and that's pushing it.
post #612 of 740
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VEXXD View Post

No, not really a cost factor. The difference between the two wouldn't break the bank. For me it's box size limitations. I'd have no problems with the FTWs up front, but I don't have room for 6 - 7 cu. ft. for the back pair. Max I could do for the rear boxes is ~ 5.8 cu. ft (not counting driver volume), and that's pushing it.

No it's not, you'd be fine as long as you get a clone or some other powerful amp. 5cf works great.
post #613 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

No it's not, you'd be fine as long as you get a clone or some other powerful amp. 5cf works great.

I meant the dimensions for the proposed 5.8 cu. ft. boxes may be pushing the max allowable for at least one location. It is nice to hear that as low as 5 cu. ft. could still work well. Something more to ponder.

Whatever 4 I go with, they'll likely be powered with a 10000Q clone. The UXLs are probably more than enough for my room, but I don't want any regrets or what-ifs later on smile.gif
post #614 of 740
Thread Starter 
Ahh gottcha . Why don't you get the 21's for up front and the 18's for the back?
post #615 of 740
Would either the uxl or ftw run well in a sealed 8 cf box powered by an ep4000?

If so what could I expect for a result

Have amp and wood so far
post #616 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Ahh gottcha . Why don't you get the 21's for up front and the 18's for the back?

I had that thought as well, but I'm a little concerned about integrating different drivers. I was under the impression that four identical drivers would be best. Not as big of an issue as I think?
Edited by VEXXD - 7/4/12 at 8:38pm
post #617 of 740
Thread Starter 
As long as they are both sealed, you won't have any problems.
post #618 of 740
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by niners View Post

Would either the uxl or ftw run well in a sealed 8 cf box powered by an ep4000?
If so what could I expect for a result
Have amp and wood so far

They would be great in a box that size. You could go down to 6-7 CF for each driver also with your ep and it would still be very good.
post #619 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

They would be great in a box that size. You could go down to 6-7 CF for each driver also with your ep and it would still be very good.

N8DOGG,

With 2x FTW21 driven with an EP4000, what box size would you recommend?
Problem is they would be connected to the EP4000 @ 8ohms though.

thanks
post #620 of 740
Only 650w per driver? Hmm...you could go up to 20cuft per driver if that's the case. I would highly suggest against that and plan to use more power eventually.
post #621 of 740
Thread Starter 
I'm with Scott, I'd save up for an extra ep4000 if possible. At least leave it as an option. IMO I'd still go 6-7 CF even with only 1 ep4000. You'd then leave yourself open to way more options down the road.
post #622 of 740
Agreed. Aim for comfortable power input within the 1-2kw range with these guys. smile.gif
post #623 of 740
Ya, thanks guys,

I'll go with 6-7 cube and will upgrade my amp later on.
I have 2 EP4000 right now but the other one will be used to drive the 4x MFW-15's that are going in the front.
I'll have the other EP4000 driving the FTW21's that are going to be placed in the back room.

Thanks guys...I appreciate the feedback.
post #624 of 740
Would someone be so kind as to give me a couple dimensions for the FTW-21?

1) Center-to-center spacing of the mounting holes (precise, if possible)
2) Depth of flange for flush mounting?
3) Mounting hole diameter - curious to know what size bolt would fit.

Thank you.
post #625 of 740
Thread Starter 
UXL 18's are in stock and ready to ship. The IXL 18's are also a couple days away from being back in stock. Lets the games begin!!!!!
post #626 of 740
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post #627 of 740
I am interested in two IXL-18 drivers & planning to use them in 2600sqft room in a sealed configuration. Can somebody help me with box dimensions for IXL-18 is sealed configuration? I am looking for decent extension & output down to 20Hz.
Thanks,
post #628 of 740
Anyone have the original t/s parameters for the uxl 18? Trying to see what the differences are in comparison with the new specs listed.
post #629 of 740
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Anyone have the original t/s parameters for the uxl 18? Trying to see what the differences are in comparison with the new specs listed.

Ricci may have them on his website? I'm not sure if I saved the file anywhere.

When talking with Mark he thought the performance of these would be near identical.
post #630 of 740
Whats the word on the LLE-18?
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