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Official Pioneer VSX-521k owners thread - Page 22

post #631 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by miniskunk View Post

A standard stereo headphone jack to RCA(phono) plug adapter will work just fine. Radio Shacks carries them as do most stores with electronic sections. The receiver has analog inputs for non digital audio sources.




Hi,

I'm quite the newbie when it comes to setting up audio equipment of any kind. I also own the 521K receiver and overall am quite happy with the sound, however I would also like to play my iPod through it. As suggested in the post above, I have the RCA plug adapter but I have no idea which port to plug it into in the back as there are numerous ports free. Also, is there an actual setting on the receiver that I would have to use in order to play my iPod?

Many thanks for any help!

Colleen L
post #632 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colleen L View Post


Hi,
I'm quite the newbie when it comes to setting up audio equipment of any kind. I also own the 521K receiver and overall am quite happy with the sound, however I would also like to play my iPod through it. As suggested in the post above, I have the RCA plug adapter but I have no idea which port to plug it into in the back as there are numerous ports free. Also, is there an actual setting on the receiver that I would have to use in order to play my iPod?
Many thanks for any help!
Colleen L

Welcome to the AVS Forum.
Pick any unused audio input (red and white) on the back of the receiver such as "CD", "BD", "TV/SAT" and plug your RCA adapter into whichever one you want. Then plug the other end into your iPod headphone jack, select whatever input you chose for the RCA adapter ("CD", "BD", "TV/SAT", etc) on the receiver and then you're ready to play your iPod. Turn up your iPod audio output to about 90% volume and hit play. I find that mine sounds best when I have the sound on the iPod set to about 90%. Higher than that and it starts to sound a bit distorted. Lower and you have to crank up the volume on the receiver too much. Let us know if you have any problems.
post #633 of 729
Two things: is it possible to repair/replace the HDMI out connection (the one that goes from receiver to the tv)? I have several bad pins that won't let me connect via HDMI. Next, can anyone tell me what size RCA connection I need to connect a Pioneer sub? I bought a cable tonight thinking it was universal only to get it home and the adapter was too big for the female connection on the receiver. I'm a novice at all this so any help is much appreciated.
post #634 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colleen L View Post


Hi,
I'm quite the newbie when it comes to setting up audio equipment of any kind. I also own the 521K receiver and overall am quite happy with the sound, however I would also like to play my iPod through it. As suggested in the post above, I have the RCA plug adapter but I have no idea which port to plug it into in the back as there are numerous ports free. Also, is there an actual setting on the receiver that I would have to use in order to play my iPod?
Many thanks for any help!
Colleen L

Hi, easiest way to play your iPod is to get a standard cable with one male 3.5 mm plug in both ends. One end to iPod, other to FRONT 3.5 mm hole in receiver and choose Portable as input. I listen Spotify from PC this way.
post #635 of 729
Hi everyone. I had my system setup by an installer. I had a satellite and blu ray player going to the receiver via hdmi (dvr and bd hdmi input) and an hdmi cable from the receiver to the tv. When it was setup the sound the was working great but after a few months the sound for the dvd player stopped working. I thought it was the cable but I plugged it into the dvd hdmi input and it worked. Then after another few months the dvr input stopped working. Now the dvd input has no sound and only the video input is working. I'm hoping one of the kids hit something on the remote and it is a simple explanation as to why it's not workng. It seems odd that each input would just stop working like that. I would appreciate any help. Thanks.
post #636 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Five28 View Post


Have you adjusted the output on your center channel after calibrating your system using MCAAC with the microphone? That setting should be used as a baseline, but feel free to tweak it to suit your tastes and room parameters. I found that I had trouble hearing some dialogue so I simply raised the volume on the center channel using the buttons at the bottom of the remote marked "CH SELECT" and then "LEV+" and "LEV-". I now have really clear dialogue and am still impressed with this budget receiver. Good luck.

Good idea. I'll have to give that a try.

Bought 821k used to have HDMI and modern codecs in family room. Verdict still up in the air. But I already miss the one-button "Night Mode" of my Yamaha RXV-450. That really made it easy for old folks like me to enjoy a movie and not wake the kiddies! I also suspect that the front channel amps were a bit better (detailed) in that old entry level Yamaha. I'll keep tweaking to see if I can make the Pio a bit better.

Mike K
post #637 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanbauer View Post

This thread is awfully dead so doubt i'll get a response but I do have a question about my 521-k; is it capable of upscaling a HDMI 720p signal to 1080p, or does the 521-k have no upscaling capabilities? I ask because it turns out my new television is terrible at upconverting 720p signals, so I was hoping the receiver could handle the task before the signal reaches the TV. Thanks!

Spanbauer,
I suspect you've already found the answer to your upscaling question of a couple of weeks ago. A resounding "NO". Same answer for "up-convert", if it comes in analog, it stays analog.

I've just gotten an 821k used to allow family room to come fully into the HDMI era. 3 or so hours of set up haven't gotten me much beyond all 3.1 speakers working from TV and BD source. Getting the BD source right via HDMI is going to be an issue. All sounds (playing DVD 5.1) pretty lifeless, while TV source 5.1 via optical digital is much more dimensional. It'll take a while to figure it out. Might even be the switchology from the Pio BD-51fd which I had always run digital optical to the 10yr old Yamaha RX-V450. An old entry level AVR that did a GREAT job with everything 5.1 sourced btw. Nice little front stage.

Good luck to you. And, If you've made any discoveries that might be of help, please let me know.

Mkard
post #638 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruins4 View Post

Hi everyone. I had my system setup by an installer. I had a satellite and blu ray player going to the receiver via hdmi (dvr and bd hdmi input) and an hdmi cable from the receiver to the tv. When it was setup the sound the was working great but after a few months the sound for the dvd player stopped working. I thought it was the cable but I plugged it into the dvd hdmi input and it worked. Then after another few months the dvr input stopped working. Now the dvd input has no sound and only the video input is working. I'm hoping one of the kids hit something on the remote and it is a simple explanation as to why it's not workng. It seems odd that each input would just stop working like that. I would appreciate any help. Thanks.

bruins4,

If you are still out there...

From your description, I'd suspect that some inputs have gotten switched at your remote. Here's hoping!!

Try selecting the DVD at main source (HDMI I assume) and press the upper WHITE receiver button, then down at bottom of controller the "Input Select" (in white), @ 2nd from left on it's row. each time you press that button, the DVD audio input will cycle through the options. Something like --HDMI -- Dig 1 (optical)--Dig 2 (Optical)--Dig 3 --(coaxial)--Analog Multi channel--Analog 2-ch-- ETC ETC. Might work.

Page about 20 in manual I think. Print and pics are REALLY small. Go to Pioneer site for manual download of pdf and then ZOOM!! smile.gif Good luck.

Mkard
post #639 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkard View Post

Good idea. I'll have to give that a try.

Bought 821k used to have HDMI and modern codecs in family room. Verdict still up in the air. But I already miss the one-button "Night Mode" of my Yamaha RXV-450. That really made it easy for old folks like me to enjoy a movie and not wake the kiddies! I also suspect that the front channel amps were a bit better (detailed) in that old entry level Yamaha. I'll keep tweaking to see if I can make the Pio a bit better.

Mike K

Are you aware that there is a "midnight" mode on the Pioneer 521? Not sure if it'll work as effectively as your old Yamaha's "Night Mode", but according to the manual (page 28): "The Midnight allows you to hear effective surround sound of movies at low volumes."
post #640 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Five28 View Post

Are you aware that there is a "midnight" mode on the Pioneer 521? Not sure if it'll work as effectively as your old Yamaha's "Night Mode", but according to the manual (page 28): "The Midnight allows you to hear effective surround sound of movies at low volumes."

Five,
Given the size of the %*&@!! buttons on this remote, I might not have been!! mad.gif

Actually, thanks. I saw a reference to the midnight earlier in the thread, put on my glasses. searched for and found the tiny little bugger, and then tried it out about 2hrs ago. Still needed a bit of a lvl adjust to center to achieve what was needed, but the combination worked. Now all I need to do is figure out why my BD-51fd Pioneer 5.1 DVD's sound is so pathetic over HDMI. Sending digital via optical to old Yamaha they could make your hairs stand up. Something in the switchology somewhere.... It seems Pioneer manuals over the last 5yrs or so have about reached the apex of obfuscatory.

And BTW, this remote rivals that of the later model DLP Mitsubishi's in ability to defy gravity. They both suck. Or, to paraphrase a sports announcer, "they have a few challenges to overcome". snicker.

Mike

edited a couple of times for some clarity.
Edited by Mkard - 1/14/13 at 10:44pm
post #641 of 729
Ok. Got uncompressed audio into the 821. Switchology issue from Pio BD-51fd, needed to reset audio out menu in "digital" and THEN switch the output priority to HDMI. Non-intuitive, but it worked!

Just sold my old 2004 Yamaha RX-V450 to a happy buyer, now I have no choice but to keep trying to get this econo-box Pioneer AVR to give me it's best.

Now perusing the prior pages to figure out why 821 recognizes and calibrate/tests Subwoofer, but I can't get any LFE during movie. MCACC had fronts set to large, I reset to small, SW = yes. Tests ok, but no appreciable SW output during play. I'll do some more reading on this thread. Also have no video pass with 24fps, with 1080p/60 I have the dreaded "black dots". Answers should be here somewhere.

Mkard
post #642 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkard View Post

bruins4,

If you are still out there...

From your description, I'd suspect that some inputs have gotten switched at your remote. Here's hoping!!

Try selecting the DVD at main source (HDMI I assume) and press the upper WHITE receiver button, then down at bottom of controller the "Input Select" (in white), @ 2nd from left on it's row. each time you press that button, the DVD audio input will cycle through the options. Something like --HDMI -- Dig 1 (optical)--Dig 2 (Optical)--Dig 3 --(coaxial)--Analog Multi channel--Analog 2-ch-- ETC ETC. Might work.

Page about 20 in manual I think. Print and pics are REALLY small. Go to Pioneer site for manual download of pdf and then ZOOM!! smile.gif Good luck.

Mkard

Thank you so much! It was signal sel on the remote that got it working. It was a huge pain changing the satellite and blu ray player inputs. Now I can buy an Xbox 360 and connect the hdmi input. Hopefully that's how it works. With the wii I have to change the input on my tv and select CD on the receiver when I want to use that.

Thanks again. I feel much better about the receiver now!
post #643 of 729
Bruins4

Glad it worked out!

I am trying to like this AVR. Still working on it.

Mike
post #644 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkard View Post

Ok. Got uncompressed audio into the 821. Switchology issue from Pio BD-51fd, needed to reset audio out menu in "digital" and THEN switch the output priority to HDMI. Non-intuitive, but it worked!

Just sold my old 2004 Yamaha RX-V450 to a happy buyer, now I have no choice but to keep trying to get this econo-box Pioneer AVR to give me it's best.

Now perusing the prior pages to figure out why 821 recognizes and calibrate/tests Subwoofer, but I can't get any LFE during movie. MCACC had fronts set to large, I reset to small, SW = yes. Tests ok, but no appreciable SW output during play. I'll do some more reading on this thread. Also have no video pass with 24fps, with 1080p/60 I have the dreaded "black dots". Answers should be here somewhere.

Mkard

OK. HDMI Cord issue for the no pass 24fps and the black dots. Changed older HDMI from Pioneer BD-51fd to AVR to an "ethernet enabled" cord. Tested with Harry Potter BD, all good for video.

The Audio challenges remain. So far, I've just adjusted SW speaker level which MCACC had -7db up to equal(-2db) with lowest front. Helps. Still not convinced I'm getting everything out of this unit.

Printing out the manual full-sized helps a lot. That half-sized, miniscule fonted manual that ships with unit is not optimal for old guys. I'm willing to keep trying for another weekend to make this sound as good as a 9yr-old Yamaha did. Then likely send it out via Craigslist.

Oh, well.

Mkard
post #645 of 729
I'm not getting sound through my center speaker but when I did the MACC set up the test sounds did come through. Any idea what's wrong? I'm just hooked up to a TV/AT&T cable box via HDMI.
post #646 of 729
this thread is not DEAD...wow !!!!!!!!!!! AFTER hours of READING and having the VSx 421 (very similar to this one...) here is my conclusion: DO NOT BUY this amp...no matter the price...nor any OTHER pioneer amp for that matter as it SEEMS a HUGE majority has issue...with HDMI handshake and standypassthrough !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LET me explain..before being killed by some of you cool.gif


have read you numerous posts about the MANY problems on pioneer AVR and hdmi pass problems...

i have the Exact same issues as MANY of you...mainly with with hd sat box/RDV (in france) no picture/soud when pioneer is turned off

PS3 will work 100% when pioneer is turned off..like all of ya - PS3 is a very powerful device so thank GOD it has no issues....

i made a huge mistake by selling my OLD yamaha AVR last year...as i have read that yamaha are the only brand that supports LEGACY passthrough for ALL ALL ALL HDMI devices (CEC or not!!!!); never has issue with RDV...now pioneer is making me sad.

so yes i used optical and all is good....for a workaround and the sat receiver works....still it SUCKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

than i wanted to get a WDTV multimedia player....but many reported it DOES not work (on pioneer amps when turned off)!!

This issue is HUGE and many are going for yamaha....from what i gathered...

Question: is there a DEFINITIVE workaround (besides the optical TV-thing) for standy HDMI ?

how can i be certain when i buy a device in the FUTUR that hdmi standby/passthrough/CEC/HDCP will WORK ????????????????????

i want to get a popcorn hour/med8ter ?? yet LOADS of people said the issues are still there...mainly on pioneer receivers!!! and these devices DO support CEC/HDCP !!!!!!!!!!!

Hell many of you never managed to get ARC and most importantly 3D blurays to work !!! THIS is ridiculous...as it should be 3D compatible !!!!!!!

This is driving me NUTS..............my last hope is to try the solution stating to buy a hdmi CEC/DHCP switch....mad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmad.gif

JUST to sum up...PLEASE PLEASE do not make my mistake and buy a PIONEER amp...just GET YAMAHA...100% problem FREE and ALL equipment works on standby hdmi passthrough...ALL; GOD i am sooo pissed at Pioneer:mad:mad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmad.gif
post #647 of 729
^^^
If you have not done so, for your tv, if your set top box has some audio settings, disable DD 5.1 and set it to Stereo. Worked for me
post #648 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by nenito2k View Post

i have the Exact same issues as MANY of you...mainly with with hd sat box/RDV (in france) no picture/soud when pioneer is turned off

Sorry, can you elaborate a bit ? What exactly are your problems ?

If the Pioneer is turned off, then of course you won't get a picture or sound ... it won't function as an HDMI switch without power !
post #649 of 729
The receiver is not completely off, as in unplugged. It is in standby mode, the state that most AVRs go into when powered off. These posts are about what is known as HDMI Standby Pass-through, the ability to send picture and sound to a display when the AVR is "off".
post #650 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by jproy13 View Post

^^^
If you have not done so, for your tv, if your set top box has some audio settings, disable DD 5.1 and set it to Stereo. Worked for me

Well i did that a long time ago and no no ! i really don't see how it worked for you as this solution has nothing to do with hdmi standy passthrough...but granted weird stuff happens to many of us in the electronic world and PC....too bad it's a no go for me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomgle View Post

Sorry, can you elaborate a bit ? What exactly are your problems ?

If the Pioneer is turned off, then of course you won't get a picture or sound ... it won't function as an HDMI switch without power !

Man where have you been living for the past 6 years....this is HOW it is supposed to work in ALL MODELS on earth !!! an AVR is a SWITCH too....wake up friend wink.gifwink.gifwink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

The receiver is not completely off, as in unplugged. It is in standby mode, the state that most AVRs go into when powered off. These posts are about what is known as HDMI Standby Pass-through, the ability to send picture and sound to a display when the AVR is "off".

yes...the very weird thing is that i managed to make standy hdmi pass...WORK on some random times....for hours...but its is RANDOM and rare rare rare...

I don't mind my sat box not having REAL CEC...as it seems many sat boxes do NOT support Full CEC compliances....but what pisses me off is that when i get new gear it might not work with pioneer...DAMN will Xbox4/ps4 work ??? will my multimedia hdd med8ter work when i buy it ???? JEEEZ this is scary !!

Anyway after hours of reading, i came up with an explanation as to why HDMI handshake occurs soooo much on sat box...in europe anyway 99% of these receivers are HDMI 1.2 (even if websites say 1.3); 2 of mine are according to user manuel...

and reading this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI IT SEEMS that CEC is not really implemented in hdmi 1.2 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that explains why pioneer does not recognize these devices as CEC (even if yamah AVR do !!!!!!!)

this hdmi stuff really sucks....when i upgrade to 3d next year (all tv's will be 3d so....) i might also get the image with snow/dots like many of you...and end up selling this pioneer...maybe it will happen, maybe not...many people with this AVR DID not manage to get 3D to work !
post #651 of 729
Pioneers tend to be more finicky when it comes to HDMI Standby Pass-through. The Pioneer manuals I read when checking out new receivers for my in-laws do say CEC must be supported on all devices for it to work and most set top boxes do not support CEC.
post #652 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

Pioneers tend to be more finicky when it comes to HDMI Standby Pass-through. The Pioneer manuals I read when checking out new receivers for my in-laws do say CEC must be supported on all devices for it to work and most set top boxes do not support CEC.

yes...hopefully in the 2013/2014 ALL HDMI devices will be 100% CEC compatible !!!
I was told on other forums that HDMI 1.4 devices MUST at all cost be CEC compatible (that was not an obligation on HDMI 1.2/1.3...)

Have you any idea if hdd multimedia popcorn / med8eter are compatible with pioneer AVR in standy like ps3 ???
Edited by nenito2k - 3/4/13 at 4:13pm
post #653 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

The receiver is not completely off, as in unplugged. It is in standby mode, the state that most AVRs go into when powered off. These posts are about what is known as HDMI Standby Pass-through, the ability to send picture and sound to a display when the AVR is "off".
Got it, thanks.
I'm using both a Pioneer VSX-S300 and a Pioneer VSX-521 - and neither will pass anything to their displays when they're in Standby mode. Probably because neither my projector or TV support CEC.

However, I can't see any scenario where I'd actually want to leave the Receiver in Standby mode... why would you want to listen to sound through the TV or Projector speakers, when you have an AV Receiver and surround speakers ?
post #654 of 729
Some people need that feature for a variety of reasons - late night viewing where the TV speakers are less likely to wake people up and family members who don't want to be bothered with using the sound system are a couple of reasons that I've seen posted. Standby pass-through facilitates those situations.
post #655 of 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomgle View Post

Got it, thanks.
I'm using both a Pioneer VSX-S300 and a Pioneer VSX-521 - and neither will pass anything to their displays when they're in Standby mode. Probably because neither my projector or TV support CEC.

However, I can't see any scenario where I'd actually want to leave the Receiver in Standby mode... why would you want to listen to sound through the TV or Projector speakers, when you have an AV Receiver and surround speakers ?

man...all TV's are CEC (and all projectors should be too !!!! ) Just activate the option dude, did you not see it !!!!!!!! it is only by acivating it that you could do the hdmi standby !

on a side note people told me pioneer amps have an ECO mode that should be disabled in order to..make the hdmi handshake issues a little more "friendly" with some gear...
but i CAN'T find it ! is it available on all pioneers ?????????????
post #656 of 729
Ok after much reading i decided to GATHER a few Q&A that i got from a website; this COULD HELP thousands of people as it is very detailed regarding HDCP/HDMI handshakes : ENJOY smile.gif

Warning!!: Never connect and disconnect HDMI cables and equipment while your devices are powered on (hot plugging cables). The hdmi cables carries a low DC voltage while connected. You will damage your equipment and the HDMI Distribution equipment while hot-plugging cables which will not be replaced under the 1 year manufacturers warranty. Only use the Switched Mode Power supply supplied with the HDMI Equipment since replacing the power adapter might damage your equipment if incorrect voltage is supplied to the equipment. Please see the best practises HDMI installation guidelines at HDMI Best Practises Installation guidelines.

HDMI / HDCP Handshaking issues = Problems with Video or Audio on your display (Mostly caused by an encryption named High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP). HDCP handshake issues rarely occur when all sources, hdmi distribution equipment and displays are always powered on 24x7. Since we do power-off displays and source devices most issues occur when these devices are powered on again to re-negotiate the HDCP handshake between source and display. There is a recommended power-on sequence below if you regularly power cycle your equipment. There are often handshake issues simply due to a poor connection. Even if the HDMI cable fits securely please ensure that there are no sharp bends of the cable or the cable is causing the hdmi port to bend. Secure / fasten cables neatly against the wall and ensure it is not hanging from device hdmi ports which can cause equipment damage. Ensure all HDMI / DVI Cables and Equipment used are HDMI v1.3, HDCP 1.2 capable. Your display must be at least HDMI v1.1 compatible for HDMI Equipment to work effectively and must be able to accept HDMI v1.3 signals to downscale. HDCP is a form of digital copy protection developed by Intel Corporation to prevent copying of digital audio and video content as it travels across DisplayPort, Digital Visual Interface (DVI), High-Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI), Gigabit Video Interface (GVIF), or Unified Display Interface (UDI) connections, even if such copying would be permitted by fair use laws.

General HDCP / HDMI Handshake problems and guidelines

When a HDMI / HDCP Handshaking issue occur the easiest way to re-negotiate the handshake is to power cycle the source device or the display. Always wait 10 seconds or longer when the display or source has been power cycled for the HDMI distribution equipment to reset hdmi handshake / timing. Some displays may also re-negotiate the handshake when swopping to another input e.g. AV1 ,AV2 or another HDMI Port (wait 10 seconds) and swopping back to correct HDMI Input via remote control. HDMI Distribution equipment should never be powered off since it provides the path for the HDCP / HDMI Handshake between source and display. Some devices such as switches and HDMI Switches / Combo splitters also allow for HDMI handshake re-authentication by switching from one input to another and back to the input having HDCP handshaking issues. If power cycles on the Display or Source does not prove to be effective power cycle all HDMI equipment (Source, HDMI Distribution Equipment, Receivers / Amplifiers and Displays). If HDCP errors still occur you need a firmware upgrade to sort out the HDMI port timing / handshake issues on the source or display. Please contact your Source device, Display or Digital receiver manufacturer for a firmware upgrade and advice on hdmi handshake issues. It is often extremely difficult to troubleshoot these issues since the HDTV supplier will blame the source supplier, will blame the digital receiver supplier, will blame the Hdmi Distribution supplier etc. etc. If going through your total home entertainment setup, make sure all your equipment has the latest firmware.

Recommended Power-up sequence to reduce HDCP / HDMI Handshake problems - Also used when changing or connecting HDMI sources, distribution equipment or displays

1. Power-off all equipment (At the wall socket).
2. Ensure all Cables, Splitters, Switches, Extenders are connected within the HDMI Distribution Network.
3. Power on all Splitters, Switches, Extenders within HDMI Distribution Network.
4. Power on all displays and set to HDMI input from HDMI Distribution Network (Source device need to be able to contact display to retrieve EDID information)
5. Power on Sources / Players. Ensure that a path is open from source to display for HDCP handshake negotiation by selecting the proper input on HDMI Switches or HDMI switch/splitter combo's via the remote control (Sources negotiates HDCP Handshake via HDMI Network to displays which is set to HDMI input to respond to handshake).

Some displays will negotiate HDCP handshake / timing better if the source are already powered on and you may need to change points 3,4,5 above to 4,3,5 or 4,5,3 depending on your equipment.

Common HDCP Handshake Troubleshooting

The problems and troubleshooting below can be done on any HDMI handshake issues even if it is not listed under the specific category of problems you are experiencing.

HDMI Distribution and why HDCP issues sometimes occur

● When HDMI Players, gaming consoles and displays are powered on 24-hours a day without switching to standby mode or switching to another HDMI source, HDMI issues mainly occur because of unstable voltage on HDMI ports on Source / LCD or AC/DC adapter which feeds power to the HDMI Equipment.
● Some equipment will never have hdmi handshaking problems while others will have a certain sequence to establish the hdmi handshake for the signal transfer (audio / video). If the manufacturer of the display or source cannot provide a firmware upgrade you will need to adapt to a sequence of resuming equipment from standby via remote. This sequence is normal behaviour because of HDCP design on HDMI Players and displays. Most HDCP sources (HD PVR, PS3, Xbox, Blu-ray Players) need a hdmi route / path to the display to retrieve display capabilities / resolution capabilities when the source is powered on e.g If you use an HDMI switch and HDCP certified digital receiver / amplifier between Playstation 3 and LCD ensure that the receiver and hdmi switch is set to the correct input for the Playstation 3 when powered on to communicate 'through' all devices between source and LCD to establish the HDMI handshake and retrieve EDID configuration from the display to ensure the correct resolution is displayed. Some displays and sources do hdmi handshake and display EDID detection in realtime and the 'hdmi path' e.g switching to correct input on receivers and HDMI switches can be done anytime and is not required before LCD and source are resumed from standby mode.
● In the case of the DSTV HDPVR which we normally do not put in standby via remote or power off you may have to adapt to a certain sequence depending on your display capabilities. E.g Some displays only recognises a change on the HDMI port and will do a HDMI handshake when the signal is dropped and reconnected e.g. if your HDPVR is powered on 24-hours a day, but you do change your LCD to standby mode via remote the LCD may not recognise the HDPVR as a source when resumed from standby since it still has an active HDMI connection even when in standby mode if the HDMI port on the display emits a low voltage. To get past this issue put the source (HDPVR in this case) into standby and resume it from standby after 8 seconds or more after the LCD has been powered on / resumed from standby on the remote and set to the correct input HDMI port. Some displays may require you to press the P+ or P- button on the remote to negotiate the HDCP handshake again after the HDPVR was resumed from standby.
● The problem with HDMI switchers / splitters is there is no one switch / splitter that is compatible with every device out there. In fact, even with the same brands, one model of DVD player may work with a particular switch but a different model will not. Also, compatibility is not specific to a single device. Instead it's a 3 way relationship between the source, the switch / splitters and the display. So, a particular dvd may work through a particular switch to a certain TV, but not to another TV, but that TV may work through the switch with another DVD player. Given that, you end up with infinite number of possible combinations so it's impossible to know based on brands what devices will work with a particular switch and what won't. The trick is to find a switch / splitter that will work with your particular combination of devices. In theory, a switch / splitter will work with every device but only if it's connected in turn to another device that it is compatible with. Unfortunately, finding the right switch is a bit of trial and error in some rare cases.

General 1:1 (or digital receiver between source and display) HDMI handshake troubleshooting

● If you are having HDMI handshake issues / audio video drops in general without HDMI Distribution equipment (e.g. Source device directly connected to display with HDMI Cable or if your Digital Receiver is not recognised by the display as an HDCP device if between source and display) you might want to use a HDMI Switch between the source/receiver and the display. The receiver /source device then handshakes with the switch, the switch regenerates the handshake protocol and then handshakes with the display. The switch which has another HDMI timing/chipset than the source device then negotiates with the display. Only use this method as a last resort if no additional firmware upgrades are possible to the source device or the display.
● HDCP handshake issues can be caused by the HDMI cables that are used if the pins are damaged or the cable does not conform to the correct HDMI specifications. Change the cable to test if this is the case before inserting a switch between source and display and use gold plated connector cables for best possible signal transfer on HDMI connections.
● Most displays / sources have a sequence of buttons to press on the remote control or an option in the Menu to reset to factory defaults. Use this sequence or option to reset source / display to factory defaults and check if the HDMI Handshake issues are solved.

Flashing picture, no picture, audio popping or crackling sound, sparkles on image or no audio (When using HDMI Distribution Equipment)

● Ensure that the shortest possible (normally 1 Meter HDMI to HDMI cable) is used from the source to the HDMI Distribution Equipment (Especially HDMI Splitters). From the HDMI Distribution Equipment output, cable lengths can be up to 15 Meters since the signal is equalized by most HDMI Equipment to allow longer cable lengths. Video flickering / dropping of signal can indicate a faulty cable. Replace the cable with another one to test if cable pins might be damaged.
● Use General Guidelines e.g. power cycle source or display or swop input to AV input on display and back to correct HDMI input.
● If using HDMI Distribution equipment with a Remote Control e.g. HDMI Switch / Splitter combo's or HDMI Switch only press the required input on the remote control to re-negotiate the HDCP handshake. Do not press remote button more than once within 10 seconds intervals since the HDMI re-negotiation can take 8 - 10 seconds which is normal.
● Some displays might loose the HDMI audio completely if HDMI sync is lost from display to HDMI Equipment and will not reset the HDMI handshake automatically. It has been found to work in rare cases to unplug the display completely from electrical wall socket for several hours (24-hours if possible) and unplug any HDMI cables connecting to the display as well to ensure no power is connected to display since the HDMI cable still carry 5v+ voltage on the cable from external devices and needs to be unplugged. Re-connect the HDMI cable and power-on the LCD after a few hours and HDMI audio should be restored. Alternatively contact the display manufacturer to get a factory reset code to reset display to defaults.
● Most HDMI Distribution equipment also feeds voltage from the HDMI Ports on the LCD's and sources. When all equipment has been power cycled and BEFORE LCD's / Sources are powered on again ensure that the HDMI Distribution equipment is also power cycled by unplugging / plugging both the power AND the HDMI cables connecting to the equipment which provides power for it to be completely powered off.
● Digital sparkles occur because of transmission / bandwidth issues. Check to ensure that high quality Category 5, 6 or 7 networking cables are used on extender sets between sender and receiver units. CAT5/e Unshielded is not recommended and not supported at all, CAT6/ CAT6e Unshielded up to 40 meters (if no electrical interference nearby), CAT5e Shielded up to 30 Meters, CAT6 Shielded up to 50 Meters and beyond 50 meters up to 65 Meters CAT7 (All pairs shielded individually) 10 Gbit/s cabling needs to be used. The maximum transmission bandwidth on HDMI CAT6 / CAT7 Extenders are 10.2Gbps and 2 x 10Gbit/s CAT7 cables will achieve the transmission bandwidth required and HDMI v1.3 resolutions and capabilities.
● Digital sparkles can occur by coupling or extending HDMI cables beyond the recommended 18 Meter Lengths on 24AWG Category 2 rated cables. If using 28 AWG cables and digital sparkles occur switch to a lower resolution or use 24AWG Category 2 cables for higher bandwidth transmissions over longer distances.
● Usage of Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP) cables are not recommended with HDMI or any video / audio equipment over CAT5e / CAT6. The usage of grounded cable FTP (Foil Twisted pair) or STP (Shielded Twisted pair) are mandatory to ensure CAT5e / CAT6 is grounded properly and best signal transfer is done via STP / FTP cable for syncing video/audio TMDS channel on HDMI.
● Another cause of digital sparkles on HDMI Extenders / Baluns is when the CAT5e / CAT6e cabling is not inserted into the ports correctly,hanging from ports or skew inserts due to incorrect fastening / securing to a surface. Push the cables (even when it clicks into place) another 1-3 millimeters inwards to ensure it makes a secure connection with the pins to transfer the signal properly.
● As a quick test to see if video/audio drops or digital sparkles is caused by a UTP / STP CAT5e/6 cable, swop the DDC and TMDS CAT cables used for an extender set / balun around on both the receiver and transmitter side (Swop CAT5e/6 port 1 & 2)
● Disable the HDMI Clock control on your display if you have a problem with HDMI over CAT5/CAT6e converters or other HDCP issues. Each display manufacturer has it's own defined button combinations to press to access the service menu. Go though all menu's on the service menu to check if the display HDMI Clock control settings can be disabled. Write down ALL values before changing any values to ensure it can be changed back to original setting if needed. If you are not qualified to service your television, please DO NOT ENTER these service menu codes. Some display manufacturers common combinations listed below.

Samsung displays

1.) Power down the display via remote.
2.) Go into manufactures settings (press in sequence: Info, Menu, Mute, Power - From the Remote)
3.) Scroll down to '10 Adjust' and hit OK (Will differ on various models)
4.) Scroll down to 'HDMI' and hit OK (Will differ on various models)
5.) Scroll down to 'Clock Control' and change from 'On' to 'Off' with Left,Right arrows.
6.) Press 'Menu' to return to previous menu and save settings (Can be indicated by '??????' on the menu on some displays.
7.) Power Down
8.) Power Up

LG displays

Press the menu button on the TV Unit for 60 Seconds OR Press Both Remote & TV Menu Buttons together for 60 Seconds.

Panasonic displays

* Hold down the {VOL -} button ON THE PLASMA TV.
* Press the {RECALL} button 3 times on the remote. (On some remotes the {STATUS} button needs to be pressed 3 times and not {RECALL} to access service menu)
* The Service Menu will be displayed.
* Use {1} {2} on remote to navigate main menu items.
* Use {3} {4} on remote to navigate sub-menu items.
* Use {VOL+} {VOL -} on remote to change item value.
* Once a value is changed, THE CHANGE IS MADE and no saving needed.
* Power off to exit service mode and save.

Sony displays

* With the TV off press in this order (on the remote):
* 'Display' (or some LCD's requires 'Info' to be pressed)
* '5'
* Volume 'Up'
* Power

Philips displays

Service Menu can be accessed by tapping in 062596 (without pause) and then hitting the i+ button. You then push *any* key to get into the service menu itself, and this will *not* be making any changes to your set. You can also get out of the service menu at any time by pressing the 'menu' button.

Toshiba displays

# Turn the TV on.
# Press the {MUTE} button three times on the remote.
# Press the {MUTE} button again on the remote and hold.
# Then press the {MENU} button on the TV's front panel.
# Release both buttons
# There should be a letter 'S' on the upper right of the screen.
# Press the {MENU} button on the TV's front panel again.
# You are now in Service Menu.
# Use the {CH+} or {CH-} buttons to select the item.
# Use the {VOL+} and {VOL -} buttons to adjust the value.
# Turn the set off to exit the Service Menu.

● If you have no video or video and no audio and you have installed a HDMI Extender over CAT5e / CAT6 / CAT7 please check the 2-pairs of cables between transmitter and receiver to ensure it is correctly terminated according to UTP/STP Standard 568B (Picture below)

STP or UTP 568B Termination/Crimping Standard

No Audio from source on display via HDMI (DVI does not produce audio on display) - When using HDMI Distribution Equipment

● HDCP handshake is lost every few seconds, Normally when this happens the display resolution is also dropped to 480p. Use General Guidelines Section.
● HDCP handshake issues can be caused by the HDMI cable that is used if the pins are damaged or the cable does not conform to the correct HDMI specifications. Change the cable to test if this is the case and use gold plated connector cables for best possible signal transfer on HDMI connections.
● If you have no video / audio or video / no audio and you have installed a HDMI Extender over CAT5e / CAT6 / CAT7 please check the 2-pairs of cables between transmitter and receiver to ensure it is correctly terminated according to UTP/STP Standard 568B and that quality CAT Cabling is used conforming to the specifications of the extender set. Ensure that power is supplied and stable using the AC/DC Adapters supplied with the HDMI Distribution Equipment.
● No Audio can also be caused by HDMI timing and sometimes the display HDMI port will not re-negotiate back to HD (720p / 1080p). In such a case display and source needs to be both powered off for 5 - 10 minutes (I know this does not makes sense but we had some rare cases previously where HDMI timing/handshake refused to reset if powered off for < 5 minutes ) and needs to be powered back on again.

Display does not negotiate HDMI Handshake when power cycled (Shows flashing picture, snow or screen scrambled and have different colours or no Picture / Audio) - When using HDMI Distribution Equipment

● On some displays this is normal and no firmware upgrade exists to fix the problem. In these cases the source device can be powered off / powered on via remote control to re-negotiate handshake while display is powered-on and set to correct HDMI Input.
● This can be caused by low-voltage HDMI sources since the HDMI distribution equipment need to have a constant uninterrupted power supply to function properly. Please check AC / DC adapter of the HDMI distribution equipment to ensure that the device does not receive power only from the HDMI port from the source but from the external electrical wall socket as well via the supplied AC / DC adapter (DC Current : 5 Volts, 2000mAh).
● Use the General Guidelines section above.
● Use the Recommended Power-up sequence above
● You may have a digital receiver / amplifier between the source and display which does not support the HDCP Repeater bit to work together with HDMI distribution equipment. Connect sources --> HDMI Distribution --> display, bypassing digital amplifier. In these cases digital audio will be from the coaxial or optical Toslink outputs from the sources to the digital amplifier / receiver. In this case you will only receive Toslink / Digital Coaxial capable audio e.g. Dolby Digital / DTS and not TrueHD / DTS Master Audio from Blu-rays / HD DVD's.

Intermittent video / audio drops every few minutes (Timings between these drops can vary and can last for up to 20 seconds per drop and sometimes the HDCP handshake might not re-negotiate again e.g. no audio / video after drop) - When using HDMI Distribution Equipment

● If a high power-usage device is connected to the same surge protection plug, electrical wall socket or electrical circuit-breaker such as air-conditioning units or heaters that powers off / on automatically these audio / video drops can occur when the high power device switches on. This can also damage your hdmi equipment and electrical damage is not covered under the manufacturers warranty. Please move high power devices to another electrical wall socket / circuit-breaker and to prevent power spikes / interruptions use a UPS (Uninterruptable Power Supply) for all HDMI Distribution Equipment AC/DC adapters power sources.
● This can be caused by low-voltage HDMI sources since the HDMI distribution equipment need to have a constant uninterrupted power supply to function properly. Please check AC / DC adapter of the HDMI distribution equipment to ensure that the device does not receive power only from the HDMI port from the source but from the external electrical wall socket as well via the supplied AC / DC adapter (DC Current : 5 Volts, 2000mAh). Never use another AC/DC adapter except for the supplied adapter since you will damage the equipment and the manufacturer will not replace it if over-voltage occur.
● We have found rare cases on which the HDMI port on the source (specifically Multichoice HDPVR) looses the HDCP handshake which cause the signal (audio / video) to drop for 5-10 seconds. If this is the case take the HDPVR to Multichoise for testing or a replacement.
Edited by nenito2k - 5/2/13 at 6:11am
post #657 of 729
Another "NO SOUND" thread... I hope this thread is still active.

Just purchased a Blu-ray player and associated HDMI cable, and linked it up to the VSX-521k and TV. Beautiful image.. but no sound. Nothing wrong with the speakers, and the DVD player that's plugged into the DVD input via a regular stereo cable plays fine.

Our setup:

Sony BDP-S790 Blu-ray player
(connected via HDMI to)
Pioneer VSX-521k
(connected via HDMI to)
Sony Bravia /46HX750 TV.

I can't figure out for the life of me what I'm doing wrong. Yes, the speakers are turned on, and yes, the player it set up to combine audio and video in the same HDMI output.

One interesting additional symptom is that when HDMI control and ARC are set to "ON," the Amp switches to TV/SAT at the most curious moments, e.g., press play on the Blu-ray player, select the menu on the player, etc. The TV is ARC-compatible, and I'm certain I've set it up correctly. Yet no sound, neither from the TV nor from the Blu-ray player. I've reset everything, unplugged the player to let it resynch, and everything I could think of and mentioned in this thread.

(Connecting the player directly to the TV does give me sound via the TV, so there's nothing wrong with the player... but obviously, I want the surround sound.)

Are there *any* possible settings I may have overlooked? Thanks much in advance.
post #658 of 729
I'd turn off HDMI control completely on all devices and see if you can just get the basic audio working from the player to the receiver. Once you get that going, add ARC back in.
post #659 of 729
Thanks. I've tried that of course, but to no avail.
post #660 of 729
Check the output settings on bluray player

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk HD
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