Official Samsung UNXXD6000 Owners' Thread - Page 8

Originally Posted by chadddada

Do you have the model/style number of the glasses? I may go pick up a set for my 6400.

Originally Posted by czhouchem

Hi all,

I am exciting to find that much discussion. Here is my situation. I bought a samsung un46c6300 for $899 at fry's. I was impressed by it immediately(even it's only 6300 not 8000). I did see un55d8000. It is truly amazing. But I just can't afford it.

Now I found they have sony XBR 46HX909 on sale for $1099. I am going to return my 6300 for it. Do you guys think it is worth the trip? I assume xbrhx929 is at the same level as d8000, then I think xbrhx909 should worth the extra $200 when compared to c6300, right? Just want to be confirmed by you guys.

Originally Posted by eortizr

Select 'Sources' on your remote, then highlight the source you want to rename, then press the 'Toos' button on your remote, then edit.

Originally Posted by JPCarl

Here is a reminder of my current settings:

--Picture menu
Mode: Movie
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 48
Tint: G50/R50

Screen adjustment submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Position: [no change]


Auto Adjustment and Screen submenus: [Grayed out]

Advanced settings submenu
Black tone: Off
Dynamic contrast: Off
Shadow Detail: +2
Gamma: +1
Expert Pattern: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Custom
White Balance: [see below]
10p White Balance: On
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: Off
Motion Lighting: Off
xvYCC: Off
LED Motion Plus: Off

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 59, Green 5, Blue 0
Green: Red 20, Green 55, Blue 3
Blue: Red 0, Green 5, Blue 100
Yellow: Red 57, Green 50, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 14, Green 51, Blue 55
Magenta: Red 50, Green 5, Blue 59

White balance submenu:
R-Offset: 24
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 26
R-Gain: 31
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 25

10p White Balance submenu:
Interval 1: Red 5, Green 4, Blue 4
Interval 2: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 3: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 2
Interval 4: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 5: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 1
Interval 6: Red 0, Green 1, Blue 0
Interval 7: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 1
Interval 8: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 3
Interval 9: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 1
Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 3

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Warm1
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI black level: Normal
Film mode: Off [grayed out]
Auto motion plus: Custom
-- Custom settings:
Blur reduction: 10
Judder reduction: 0


*EDIT Picture mode and color tone are both now set to standard. I believe that also greyed out the 10p white balance option. I will have to double check to make sure.

Originally Posted by toonj64

I have a C6300 and my observations surely apply to the D series as well:
Your backlight is very high meaning most people will get flashlights and clouds.
You did mitigate this by using black tone at "darkest" which makes your blacks look great yes, but you get black crush for sure. Losing detail in dark spots, you just get pure black.
Your maxed out contrast surely makes your whites shift in color a bit, usually turns slightly blue. You pretty much always need to turn contrast down a few notches or white is off.
I'm curious at what reference you used for white balance. For the offset and gain, I guess you can sort of eyeball it but the 10p is way too subtle and precise even to think eyeballing it. So I'm always like "wha?" when I see 10p whitout instruments.

Not being a jerk, just giving you the info I know on calibrating the Samsung LED/LCDs.
God it took me forever to figure out mine. And i still have no proper white balance since I don't have instruments.

Originally Posted by kinetic758

Anyone care to share their panel types for the 2011 models?

My 46D6900 appears to have CMO panel (CN01). Bummer...

Originally Posted by julienbossard

Hello,
I have just bought the brande new LCD UE40D6500 (France) and messed up with the hdmi calibration while trying to find a way to activate the IR module for the 3D glasses (2011 model only work with serie 3 bluetooth glasses).

I have found out that all the calibration pattern are already in the service menu. You just need to go to SVC/Test Pattern / HDI W/B Pattern : ON / HDMI Pattern set : 7. For my TV, the square in the upper left corner needed to be white.

Also found the menu to activate the IR module to use my SSG 2100 glasses :
SVC / IR_ON_OFF : ON.

If it can help.
Bye.

Originally Posted by JPCarl

I am very suprised to hear all of the issues you guys are having with this set. I honestly have not had any issue at all. After applying all the settings and viewing in both dark and light environments, I still hold true to the statement that this set is gorgeous. I will post some pics this evening. I am sorry to hear so many of you are having problems. Did anyone get a chance to play around with my suggested settings?

Originally Posted by Emaych

I'd be happy to share, or even just find out for myself out of general curiosity, but ever since folks have been mentioning panel types, I am unable to find any reference to that either on the serial number sticker box, in the menu, or anywhere else. Where is anyone finding this information please?

Originally Posted by toonj64

JB

I could try off the top of my head but I would get some stuff wrong for sure. Im in Afghanistan right now so no access to my TV. I ended up messing around a lot with brightness (45 is too low for mine) and gamma because I was getting awful color smearing (mostly red). All of the C series had this issue to some extent and some were horrible. So I found out that very precise adjustment of white balance (without regard to actually getting white right) would eliminate color smearing.
Then you readjust your colors in the custom color space.

But as a starting point, contrast probably between 90-95, backlight no higher than 10 (8 probably best) and bright at 45 IF it gives you no other issues, otherwise you need to go higher but 50 should look awful. Gamma should be tweeked to keep your blacks good while not loosing detail or having black crush. Colors can be adjusted quite well with a calibration disk and filters (DVE for me). Dynamic contrast is a question of taste but don't use the highest setting. Low or med would be best. Black tone, I ended up using the lowest setting because I lost those awesome blacks while tweeking to get rid of the color smearing. The lowest black tone setting gives better blacks without crush or barely any. If you can, don't use black tone.

Originally Posted by eortizr

I will love to see a picture of your tv with a letterbox widescreen movie in a completely darkroom.

Originally Posted by kinetic758

Take a look at the back of your set. Where the model number is displayed, you should also see a version number. In my case, I have version CN01. Yours could begin with an "H", "A", "S" and so on. As far as I know, the model I have (46D6900W - Best Buy exclusive) seems to come only with CMO panels.

Originally Posted by jbdawson

Thanks toon I am going to adjust in and around these values hopefully some of my flashlighting decreases


I would like to see this as well, can you post one? also curious what panel you have saw mention of H301 panel in this thread maybe these aren't as bad in regards to flashlighting


I've got a H302 made in Mexico and am experiencing some issues, I've got flashlighting but it's only visible in widescreen or letterbox and a pitch black dark room in the bottom L and R corners it's small about half an inch, would you guys say that's about normal? Do any if yours exhibit this? If I have my IKEA ambient lighting on it's not as noticeable. I am still undecided if I should try my luck at another set or not as everything else I love on the TV. Hooked it up to my PC as well and the thing looks beautiful.

Originally Posted by kinetic758

I believe your H panel is a Samsung. Regarding your flashlighting, in my experience with 3 2011 sets (2 46D6420's and 1 46D6900) and by looking at the photos in another post you made, I would say your flashlighting is "normal". However, were you able to resolve the banding and purple circles?

Originally Posted by jbdawson

Well that's good to hear in regards to the flashlighting, as far as the panel is that good or bad? Now on the purple clouds can't really notice them anymore only if I stand at an extremely off angle where you cant watch tv from anyway, so basically under normal viewing conditions cant see them so it doesn't really bother me.

Now as far as the banding that is the issue that scared me BUT after reading over some of the D7000/8000 threads we know how expensive these are there were a couple users who experienced the banding as well but just like myself ( mine being in the NBA 2k11 splash screens), they only saw it under one circumstance being some menu in Rock Band. So im wondering if it's just specific to a certain video game as that's the only time I see it. I've looked for it all over the place and there is no banding AT ALL that I could see it's just on that video game in the 2 splash screens. Perhaps it is some type of malfunction related to the video game is what I'm thinking.

Originally Posted by toonj64

Digiburd

I have a C6300 and my observations surely apply to the D series as well:
Your backlight is very high meaning most people will get flashlights and clouds.
You did mitigate this by using black tone at "darkest" which makes your blacks look great yes, but you get black crush for sure. Losing detail in dark spots, you just get pure black.
Your maxed out contrast surely makes your whites shift in color a bit, usually turns slightly blue. You pretty much always need to turn contrast down a few notches or white is off.
I'm curious at what reference you used for white balance. For the offset and gain, I guess you can sort of eyeball it but the 10p is way too subtle and precise even to think eyeballing it. So I'm always like "wha?" when I see 10p whitout instruments.

Not being a jerk, just giving you the info I know on calibrating the Samsung LED/LCDs.
God it took me forever to figure out mine. And i still have no proper white balance since I don't have instruments.