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Official Samsung UNXXD6000 Owners' Thread - Page 87

post #2581 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick1000 View Post

I have the Directv HR23-700 and mine is greyed out too. Here is a post from someone else asking about it:

Originally Posted by*arielka2* I have the*UN46D6000*so not sure that is why I can change*HDMI Black level: low**It just stays grayed out on NORMAL...I'm able to change everything else...Also I have Direct TV so not sure if I should be using certain cables or making any modifications to settings as well. Any insight appreciated as I'm new to these forums.

AVS Member Tightrope replied:

No need to worry, this simply means that you are feeding your TV a signal in the correct color space. The HDMI Black Level control would be useful if you were viewing an RGB signal (like the output of a computer.) Enjoy your set*

This would be true except that the TV can't detect which type of HDMI signal is present. If I set my PS3 to its default settings, it outputs a 4:2:2 (17-237) HDMI signal. If I activate its Deep Color and Full Range HDMI settings, it outputs 4:4:4 (0-255). When in the default mode, if I have HDMI BL: Normal, the colors are oversaturated and I have to change to HDMI BL: Low. If I activate the Deep Color/FR HDMI setting, I have to switch it to HDMI BL: Normal. The TV can't auto-detect it. And the reason I need to change the setting is because it's incorrect for the device connected - It's Normal, and it needs to be set to Low since Normal oversaturates the reds/blues/yellows. The manual even states clearly that HDMI Black Level is only available in HDMI mode (the HDMI inputs), yet even with the STB disconnected and/or turned off, the option is greyed out, leading me to believe it is disabled in this model.
post #2582 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishy Tia View Post

This would be true except that the TV can't detect which type of HDMI signal is present. If I set my PS3 to its default settings, it outputs a 4:2:2 (17-237) HDMI signal. If I activate its Deep Color and Full Range HDMI settings, it outputs 4:4:4 (0-255). When in the default mode, if I have HDMI BL: Normal, the colors are oversaturated and I have to change to HDMI BL: Low. If I activate the Deep Color/FR HDMI setting, I have to switch it to HDMI BL: Normal. The TV can't auto-detect it. And the reason I need to change the setting is because it's incorrect for the device connected - It's Normal, and it needs to be set to Low since Normal oversaturates the reds/blues/yellows. The manual even states clearly that HDMI Black Level is only available in HDMI mode (the HDMI inputs), yet even with the STB disconnected and/or turned off, the option is greyed out, leading me to believe it is disabled in this model.

See if you can contact Samsung and see what they say.
post #2583 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishy Tia View Post

Erm, no. The TVs don't switch to 24 Hz for games. The TV can't even tell it's a game. All the TV cares about is the incoming signal. The problem lies in how the game itself is configured, or in how the OS is set to send resolutions to the monitor. Your video card's timing may be a hair off and causing the TV to go nuts.

Can you list your computer's specs, including OS type and especially the video card model? My TV acts as my computer monitor and I do so in both Mac OS X (my primary OS) and Windows as well, so I have experience in both situations.

I ran FRAPS and benchmarked Company of Heroes and the average frame rate was 23.8 frames, so I'm fairly certain that it is in fact running 24P for whatever reason. Also when I hit info it says 1920x1080/24 in the top left corner.

I have a Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.4 Ghz
4GB of OCZ DDR3 low latency ram @ 1666mhz
Radeon 6950 2GB
500GB Samsung HD
Gigabyte MA-770-UD3P mobo
post #2584 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by MancidRilk View Post

I ran FRAPS and benchmarked Company of Heroes and the average frame rate was 23.8 frames, so I'm fairly certain that it is in fact running 24P for whatever reason. Also when I hit info it says 1920x1080/24 in the top left corner.

I have a Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.4 Ghz
4GB of OCZ DDR3 low latency ram @ 1666mhz
Radeon 6950 2GB
500GB Samsung HD
Gigabyte MA-770-UD3P mobo

What's also strange is that battlefield 3 will play fine at 1080/60 in windowed mode until the round ends and the next match loads, the screen will just go blank and I get a "resolution not supported" message. In company of heroes there is no way that I have found to get it to run at 1080/60.

If anyone uses this TV as a PC monitor and games on it, will you please run Battlefield 3 or Company of Heroes (any version) to see if you encounter similar issues?
post #2585 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishy Tia View Post

[snip]

Not all cameras use the 1.78:1 aspect ratio. Theirs do not, or else the image would be filling the screen without having been zoomed in or out first. Hence, you get a letterbox format. Many HD shows are like that too - aspect ratio varies widely and is not a set standard. Anything not in 1.78:1 aspect ratio when filmed (or shot live) will either be zoomed, cropped, or stretched anamorphically on an HDTV.

But why would CNN, who is shooting for the TV Audience, choose an aspect ratio other than 1.78:1?

Vincent
post #2586 of 3067
Hey guys Im in a bit of a dilemma here and would love your guys opinion/help/

I bought a 55D6000 in late November 2011 for $1098 at Sam's Club and here were the issues:

The viewing angle seemed a lot worse than normal.The picture degraded A LOT. To give this panel credit it had no flashlighting but I still decided to take it back to the store. I had to drive 45 minutes away since my local sam's club were out and "claimed" they would not be getting anymore.

The second panel I had had no noticeable flashlighting. It was there but of course but not noticeable in 90% viewing environments. The viewing angle was a definite improvement. Until I started to notice some light banding which I had never noticed on the first set. I figured Id give samsung a call if I really could not get past it. When I took a visit to my local sam's club, I noticed they had completely restocked their supply of the 55D6000. This caused me to try and swap the tv out AGAIN. The member services at my local Sam's Club were very nice and wished me luck and even suggested other brands if I wasnt happy with this one.

The third panel has roughly the same banding as panel number 2. Only this time, there is worse flashlighting on the bottom left corner. The other 3 corners are average like the old sets and are hardly noticeable. But I am noticing the bottom left flashlight even in the daytime.


My question to you guys is this. Should I keep this set and wait for the 2012 models to come out? Or should I go ahead and try swapping it again for a FOURTH PANEL? I do not want my local Sam's Club to know my first name when they see me because of this haha. In another post I read the 2012 55ES6000 will be around 1799 MSRP. I am hoping it will be on sale for 1499 or less. I have until May 3rd, 2012 to return my current D6000 under Sam's 90 day no questions asked return policy.

For technical purposes:

1st Panel: H301, September 2011 build date
2nd Panel: H301, November 2011 build date
3rd Panel: H301, January 2012 build date

Thanks guys!

Dane
post #2587 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danediz View Post

Hey guys Im in a bit of a dilemma here and would love your guys opinion/help/

I bought a 55D6000 in late November 2011 for $1098 at Sam's Club and here were the issues:

The viewing angle seemed a lot worse than normal.The picture degraded A LOT. To give this panel credit it had no flashlighting but I still decided to take it back to the store. I had to drive 45 minutes away since my local sam's club were out and "claimed" they would not be getting anymore.

The second panel I had had no noticeable flashlighting. It was there but of course but not noticeable in 90% viewing environments. The viewing angle was a definite improvement. Until I started to notice some light banding which I had never noticed on the first set. I figured Id give samsung a call if I really could not get past it. When I took a visit to my local sam's club, I noticed they had completely restocked their supply of the 55D6000. This caused me to try and swap the tv out AGAIN. The member services at my local Sam's Club were very nice and wished me luck and even suggested other brands if I wasnt happy with this one.

The third panel has roughly the same banding as panel number 2. Only this time, there is worse flashlighting on the bottom left corner. The other 3 corners are average like the old sets and are hardly noticeable. But I am noticing the bottom left flashlight even in the daytime.

My question to you guys is this. Should I keep this set and wait for the 2012 models to come out? Or should I go ahead and try swapping it again for a FOURTH PANEL? I do not want my local Sam's Club to know my first name when they see me because of this haha. In another post I read the 2012 55ES6000 will be around 1799 MSRP. I am hoping it will be on sale for 1499 or less. I have until May 3rd, 2012 to return my current D6000 under Sam's 90 day no questions asked return policy.

For technical purposes:

1st Panel: H301, September 2011 build date
2nd Panel: H301, November 2011 build date
3rd Panel: H301, January 2012 build date

Thanks guys!

Dane

Ask them if they have any H302 or H303 panels. If not, return it and wait for next years models.
post #2588 of 3067
Last time I was in there it looked like all H301 panels. Looks like I will probably keep it until may 3rd. If the 2012 models arent cheap enough or available ill get something else in the meantime. We used to have a 46" but my girlfriend likes the 55".
post #2589 of 3067
I am planning on purchasing either the Samsung UN40D6000 or 6300. The price difference is $50 between the two so I'm stuck as to which one to buy.
Can any owners comment on the difference between the two. Thanks.
post #2590 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Batgirl1979 View Post

I am planning on purchasing either the Samsung UN40D6000 or 6300. The price difference is $50 between the two so I'm stuck as to which one to buy.
Can any owners comment on the difference between the two. Thanks.

The D6300 has the same features as the D6000 except that it adds a web browser. According to Consumer Reports, the D6300 has a "narrow" viewing angle while the D6000 has a "moderate" viewing angle.
post #2591 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillon4 View Post

The D6300 has the same features as the D6000 except that it adds a web browser. According to Consumer Reports, the D6300 has a "narrow" viewing angle while the D6000 has a "moderate" viewing angle.

I tried viewing my new 6300 at extreme angles and I saw no loss of brightness under any watchable angle.

That CU article was very strange. It rated the 6300 (72 points) higher than the 6000 (70) while all the individual scores were equal or lower. Lower were High-Def and Standard-Def (and higher price). They only reported a price difference of $50.

Vincent
post #2592 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruskal View Post

I tried viewing my new 6399 at extreme angles and I saw no loss of brightness under any watchable angle.

That CU article was very strange. It rated the 6300 (72 points) higher than the 6000 (70) while all the individual scores were equal or lower. Lower were High-Def and Standard-Def (and higher price). They only reported a price difference of $50.

Vincent

I have not personally seen the model 6300, however I did visit 3 different retail locations where I compared the 6000 to the 6400 and the 7000 models and in each case, the 6000 was clearly superior to either of the other two with respect to viewing angle. It was so noticeable that I decided to buy the 6000 even though I hadn't even considered it initially. Having noticed this in three different stores, it was hard to dismiss it as merely sample variation. Then later, I read the consumer reports review that seemed to confirm what I was seeing with my own eyes. Now if the set you are looking at looks good to you, that is all that really matters. What anyone else thinks is really irrelevant.
I too questioned the consumer reports scoring process, as the scoring of the specific criteria seemed to me to be in some cases at odds with the overall number score. I wrote them and this is what they told me:

"The additional information you have requested about the report 'Samsung LCD televisions' in Consumer Reports magazine is as follows: The categories of Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor each come with their own range. If you could think of the category "Excellent" as being a letter grade, it would be an A. However, as you know the criteria for earning an A is a numerical score of 90 or higher. A score of 90 and a score of 99 would still have a letter grade of A, or Excellent for our purposes. This is why products can have seemingly identical scores in test categories while having different ratings. In a situation like this, please defer to the numerical rating. I hope this is helpful."

So there you have it!
post #2593 of 3067
Ok i just bought the 55d6005 from BB for a good deal but i am having some issues and 'im stuck on a decision of if i should keep the 6005 watered down version or return it and pony up the extra 150$ for the real 6000...
there is no Ethernet net connection on the back of the 6005 and it only has two hdmi ports while the real 6000 doesn't come with the free wireless usb stick, but has 4 hdmi ports and the wired network connection.

i have been having issues with streaming media from my computer to the tv. my xbox on my bedroom sammy works fine wirelessly but the new tv stutters with trying to stream wireless, the tv is about 50-75 feet away through one wall and down a hall into the living room. my phone shows a signal strength of about -75 through -70dp and is a brand new Cisco e3200 (just bought to try to fix the issue but still stuck) i haven't tried to stream Netflix since the router change tonight but will try in the morning and will update post acordingly...

does any one else have a 6005 with wireless streaming connectivity issues?? and should i ditch the 6005 and jump to the 6000? though i will have a hard time selling it to the wife...
post #2594 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiltain View Post

Ok i just bought the 55d6005 from BB for a good deal but i am having some issues and 'im stuck on a decision of if i should keep the 6005 watered down version or return it and pony up the extra 150$ for the real 6000...
there is no Ethernet net connection on the back of the 6005 and it only has two hdmi ports while the real 6000 doesn't come with the free wireless usb stick, but has 4 hdmi ports and the wired network connection.

i have been having issues with streaming media from my computer to the tv. my xbox on my bedroom sammy works fine wirelessly but the new tv stutters with trying to stream wireless, the tv is about 50-75 feet away through one wall and down a hall into the living room. my phone shows a signal strength of about -75 through -70dp and is a brand new Cisco e3200 (just bought to try to fix the issue but still stuck) i haven't tried to stream Netflix since the router change tonight but will try in the morning and will update post acordingly...

does any one else have a 6005 with wireless streaming connectivity issues?? and should i ditch the 6005 and jump to the 6000? though i will have a hard time selling it to the wife...

If your wife expects seamless streaming, get a 6000. If you have more than a STB/BD-ROM connected, get a 6000. If you can't stand having to jump through hoops to do some of the simple function settings, get a 6000. These 03 and 05 models are crippled like crazy. A fat lot of good a free wireless adapter does when you can't stream properly, eh?
post #2595 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruskal View Post

But why would CNN, who is shooting for the TV Audience, choose an aspect ratio other than 1.78:1?

Vincent

Because that's what their cameras are? Either that or they really do suck at setting proper aspect ratio and/or resolutions for their footage. Overthinking this one isn't going to change the fact that they're displaying in LB (letterbox) format.
post #2596 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by MancidRilk View Post

I ran FRAPS and benchmarked Company of Heroes and the average frame rate was 23.8 frames, so I'm fairly certain that it is in fact running 24P for whatever reason. Also when I hit info it says 1920x1080/24 in the top left corner.

I have a Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.4 Ghz
4GB of OCZ DDR3 low latency ram @ 1666mhz
Radeon 6950 2GB
500GB Samsung HD
Gigabyte MA-770-UD3P mobo

As I said before, the TV won't change resolutions like that unless the game is configured incorrectly. ALL games have a configuration file, and most are editable so a user can insert a specific resolution. That said...

You have a Radeon card. Do you have Catalyst Control Center installed along with the latest Catalyst drivers? The number one easy fix is updating your video card's drivers to the most current ones** available.

If you are already up to date there, you will need to check your settings in the CCC app itself. You may need to add the proper 1080p/60 resolution in the HTDV Resolutions pane. But I suspect the issue is in the game itself. You said that it runs fine in 1080p/60 in windowed mode, but not in fullscreen. That tells me that the OS is handling it fine, but once the game takes over, it gets mucked up. Conversely, you can go into CCC and disable the 1080p/24 resolution completely if you never watch DVDs or Blu-Rays on your PC. That will prevent the game from even having access to that resolution in the first place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MancidRilk View Post

What's also strange is that battlefield 3 will play fine at 1080/60 in windowed mode until the round ends and the next match loads, the screen will just go blank and I get a "resolution not supported" message. In company of heroes there is no way that I have found to get it to run at 1080/60.

If anyone uses this TV as a PC monitor and games on it, will you please run Battlefield 3 or Company of Heroes (any version) to see if you encounter similar issues?

Again, your game is configured incorrectly. And I mean it's really configured incorrectly, since it's putting your TV into a situation where it's receiving an out of range signal. Make sure that if you have a 3D option in the game, to disable it. What it'll do (and this is meant only for nVidia cards that have the required 3D shutter glasses) is create two 60 Hz alternating fields, but the TV sees the signal as a 120 Hz refresh rate, which is obviously "out of range" (beyond 60 Hz).

The TV can only respond to whatever signal it's given, so you're going to need to tweak your games' config files, because that is where the issue lies.
post #2597 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishy Tia View Post

Because that's what their cameras are? Either that or they really do suck at setting proper aspect ratio and/or resolutions for their footage. Overthinking this one isn't going to change the fact that they're displaying in LB (letterbox) format.

I don't think I understand what you guys are talking about here. My CNN HD channel isn't letterboxed, it's definitely 1.78:1. I just turned it on to check.
post #2598 of 3067
I wasn't planning on buying a new TV today but I just wandered into a Sears Outlet store and picked up a 40 inch closeout set for an obscenely low price so now I'm a proud new owner of a 6000 series set. This thread looks like a great wealth of configuration info so I can't wait to try out some of the suggestions in here.
post #2599 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by sphna12d View Post

I wasn't planning on buying a new TV today but I just wandered into a Sears Outlet store and picked up a 40 inch closeout set for an obscenely low price so now I'm a proud new owner of a 6000 series set. This thread looks like a great wealth of configuration info so I can't wait to try out some of the suggestions in here.

Thats awesome as I have always seen the 40" is overly priced compared to the 46 and 55. At one point the 46 was cheaper than the 40! But they know people have room restrictions and are forced to buy these overpriced 37 and 40 inch models. I believe you will be happy with your Samsung. Good luck!
post #2600 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by sphna12d View Post

I wasn't planning on buying a new TV today but I just wandered into a Sears Outlet store and picked up a 40 inch closeout set for an obscenely low price so now I'm a proud new owner of a 6000 series set. This thread looks like a great wealth of configuration info so I can't wait to try out some of the suggestions in here.

I'm curious as to how much you paid, as I have always found Sears Outlet to price their TV's on the high side.
post #2601 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooski View Post

I'm curious as to how much you paid, as I have always found Sears Outlet to price their TV's on the high side.

I was told they had just put the model on display 45 minutes before (I'm pretty sure this was true as the box was still out on the floor). I was able to get it for $584.94 before tax.
post #2602 of 3067
i've been going back and fourth with myself in the 55d6000 & 6400. it's a $200 difference in price at BB. I dont care for 3D but i do love the thin bezel of the 6400. i think those are the 2 major differences in both, correct? why else should i choose the 6400 over the 6000? because the 6000 is the lower of the 6 series models (obviously by the number)? money is a bit tight being i just moved and would want warranty and a tv stand but i dont want that to be the main factor. thanks for any help.
post #2603 of 3067
I've searched a number of the 87 pages of this thread, but did not see anything discussing how this panel looks off-access. Can anyone comment about how this panel looks off-access as compared to panels from Panasonic or LG?

Thanks
post #2604 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by btrvalik View Post

I've searched a number of the 87 pages of this thread, but did not see anything discussing how this panel looks off-access. Can anyone comment about how this panel looks off-access as compared to panels from Panasonic or LG?

Thanks

It is pretty poor. But the picture straight on is far superior to LG imho. And as far as the previous comment on the 6400 vs the 6000. From what I can tell 3D is the main factor and the bezel design. You got to ask yourself is 3D a gimmick? I would say probably and then your question is if the extra 200 dollars is worth the cooler bezel. The 6000 already is really nice bezel.
post #2605 of 3067
Apologies if this question has already been asked:

I've bought a Mac Mini for my UN40D6000. The picture settings from redwolf I used are fine for watching TV and playing DVD's, but I find they're too dark and have too much contrast for watching video content on the Mac. I know the Mac needs to be profiled but my question is, is there a way to associate picture settings on the Samsung TV with the HDMI port the computer is connected to? I want to have one picture setting for watching TV and another one for using the Mac, and to have them change automatically when I change inputs. Is this possible? I'm using a Logitech Harmony 650 to control everything btw.
post #2606 of 3067
@fuzzy,
Mine are set the same but it has been said that they are unique for each input. Make a drastic temporary easy to see change to one obvious setting (color?) on one input and then check it against the other inputs and you should have your answer.
post #2607 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by sphna12d View Post

I was told they had just put the model on display 45 minutes before (I'm pretty sure this was true as the box was still out on the floor). I was able to get it for $584.94 before tax.

Great price! The 40" D6000's rock! I have one in our bedroom, and it produces a noticably better picture than our 46" D6000 in the living room, regardless of viewing distance. It seems to be able to produce deeper colors.
post #2608 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by tc1 View Post

@fuzzy,
Mine are set the same but it has been said that they are unique for each input. Make a drastic temporary easy to see change to one obvious setting (color?) on one input and then check it against the other inputs and you should have your answer.

I understand that, however it's a bit tricky in my case. Calibrating in Mac OS X requires you max out the brightness/contrast before going through the different test patterns to create an ICC profile. This works fine for the Mac Mini, but not so much for watching TV.

What I'm ask is, is there a way to automatically change the picture setting preset on the Samsung based on the input being used?
post #2609 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danediz View Post

And as far as the previous comment on the 6400 vs the 6000. From what I can tell 3D is the main factor and the bezel design. You got to ask yourself is 3D a gimmick? I would say probably and then your question is if the extra 200 dollars is worth the cooler bezel. The 6000 already is really nice bezel.

yea, i guess the whole thin bezel makes the picture looks bigger. i need to go back to BB and see them again before i make the final decision.
post #2610 of 3067
Quote:
Originally Posted by btrvalik View Post

I've searched a number of the 87 pages of this thread, but did not see anything discussing how this panel looks off-access. Can anyone comment about how this panel looks off-access as compared to panels from Panasonic or LG?

Thanks

It can vary. Some panels have poor off-axis viewing, and others have exceptional viewing from the sides. It used to be that any panel marked CNxx was absolutely horrid from the sides, but dead on center, while panels marked SQxx were all-around good, but not as crisp at centerline viewing as the CN panels.

Now the panels have changed, and there are A0, CN, F, and H panels. The F and H panels are the ones to look for, preferrably an H301 or H302. Samsung continues to play the panel lottery with us and it makes for inconsistent quality within any given model/line.
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