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Official Samsung UNXXD6000 Owners' Thread - Page 90

post #2671 of 3051
2/23/12 at 8:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfp View Post

I waited all day for owners to jump in with a possible solution, but here are some general ideas. Most experts recommend tuning off Digital Noise Reduction, Dynamic Contrast, Edge Enhancement, and Sharpness. They usually make HD programs worse. If that doesn't help, let us know.

Also, most previews on blu ray discs are not of blu ray quality, but DVD signals. Funny they should look OK. Watch the top left info corner as they begin to play for the resolution. Then watch closely when the blu ray program begins to see if it says something like 1080p or 24Fs, etc. Let us know.

Found out today it wasn't the TV...it was the disc. I grabbed a copy of "The Warrior" on Bluray just to make sure the picture was fine. Turns out that movie is notorious for having digital noise/snow in it because of the way it was recorded. Got a different movie and it looked great. Thanks for the help.
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post #2672 of 3051
2/24/12 at 4:08am
I'm new here and new to LED Tv's and calibrating. I was wondering if someone can direct me to the page that will have the Calibrating settings for the Samsung UN55D6900 Tv which I just purchased the other day.

Thanks
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post #2673 of 3051
2/24/12 at 1:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by xlii View Post

I think he lives in Europe. Other countries have different laws about recording TV shows.

That's correct. As far as I know, the USB HDD option is not available in all D6000 series models. I just go to program guide and press the red record button on remote to set recording in advance (or during ongoing tv programme directly to record the current programme).
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post #2674 of 3051
2/24/12 at 3:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by K2011 View Post

That's correct. As far as I know, the USB HDD option is not available in all D6000 series models. I just go to program guide and press the red record button on remote to set recording in advance (or during ongoing tv programme directly to record the current programme).

I have read LG tvs sold in the US have a hidden menu that turns on the record to HDD option. Does anyone know whether samsungs have a similar option?
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post #2675 of 3051
2/24/12 at 8:00pm
How the hell does samsung not use film = 0 and AMP = clear as the default settings from the factory?

Factory settings on these tv's have severe motion blur/artifacts. Changing those two settings basically removes the issue completely.

Aside that, the TV's have incredible picture. I don't understand why they ship these TV's from the factory with the settings they do.
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post #2676 of 3051
2/24/12 at 10:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by K2011 View Post

That's correct. As far as I know, the USB HDD option is not available in all D6000 series models. I just go to program guide and press the red record button on remote to set recording in advance (or during ongoing tv programme directly to record the current programme).

Looks like the European versions have a program "GUIDE" button on the remote above the INFO button, for use with free over the air programming internal tuner. The US version remote has a useless SEARCH button which I never use. Does anyone know how we can access the Program Guide in the US version or maybe we do not have access. I'm thinking if we can access the Program Guide we may be able to access the recording feature with a HDD.

Are there any hackers out there who has looked into turning on the record to HDD option?
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post #2677 of 3051
2/25/12 at 10:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Westtech View Post

I'm new here and new to LED Tv's and calibrating. I was wondering if someone can direct me to the page that will have the Calibrating settings for the Samsung UN55D6900 Tv which I just purchased the other day.

Thanks

idk if this is directly for the 6900 but im using it for my 6000 and it looks stunning IMO. I'm using his second set of settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redwolf4k View Post

I am getting a few private messages asking for my settings again.

This is not a problem, as I am happy to post them again, but hopefully we can all remember that they have been reposted on this page, page 67.

Enjoy.


For Critical Movie viewing, and conforming to the Motion Picture Standard:


Picture mode: Movie
Backlight: 12 (dark room backlight 10) (see above explanation for adjustment advice)
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 44 (ensures video black is as deep as possible while maintaining full shadow detail)
Sharpness: 20 (sure, 0 introduces no enhancement, but it creates an out of focus appearance you don't experience at the movie theatre. 20 is actually quite realistic)
Color: 48 (balanced)
Tint: 50/50

Advanced
Black tone: off
Dynamic contrast: off
Shadow detail: +2
Gamma: 1
Color space: Auto (confusing with the name "Auto", but this is the color gamut that aligns with Rec 709)
White balance: off
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: off
Motion lighting: off
Led motion plus: off

Picture options:
Color tone: warm 2
Digital noise filter: off
Mpeg noise filter: off
HDMI Black level: low
Film mode: auto 2 (or greyed out)
Auto motion plus: Clear or Off

System
Eco sensor: off



Now here is a second set of settings, and this is an option for those who simply want to see how well this set can perform OUTSIDE of the standards used in motion picture and television. These settings will look stunning with animation both hand drawn and computer generated, and look stunning with video games.

For the most visually stunning performance of the set outside the Motion Picture standard (without clipping any details):



Picture mode: Standard
Backlight: 12 (see above explanation for adjustment advice)
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 30 (the default 50 is WAY to high, and causes many problems, including enhancing noise)
Color: 50 (slight over saturation, no clipping)
Tint: 50/50

Advanced
Black tone: off
Dynamic contrast: Medium (wont clip dark detail through its dynamic range paired with brightness @ 45)
Shadow detail: -2 (one of my favorite features, if it doesn't bother you, ensures your contrast stays great in dark scenes)
Gamma: 0
Color space: Native (the tamed green and slightly enhanced red of this Samsung created color gamut pairs very well with the Warm 1 overly blue color temp. Appears very balanced to the eye, although does not conform to the standard for motion picture. Sand, sunlight and skin will appear more realistic)
White balance: off
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: on
Motion lighting: off
Led motion plus: off

Picture options:
Color tone: warm 1 ("standard" color temp was way to blue. Warm 1 improves matters. Although still overly blue, it does not wash out colors with a radically blue grayscale.)
Digital noise filter: off
Mpeg noise filter: off
HDMI Black level: low
Film mode: auto 2 (or greyed out)
Auto motion plus: Clear

System
Eco sensor: off
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post #2678 of 3051
2/25/12 at 10:48am
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN46D6000-46-Inch-1080p-Black/dp/B004NB13KI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1330195621&sr=8-2

I'm thinking about buying this today and wanna make sure it's a good price? Thanks!
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post #2679 of 3051
2/26/12 at 6:59am
For $6 more you might as well go with the newer version, no?
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post #2680 of 3051
2/26/12 at 7:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by yanki01 View Post

idk if this is directly for the 6900 but im using it for my 6000 and it looks stunning IMO. I'm using his second set of settings.

I will second redwolf's configuration settings for the 6000. Two weeks in and I'm loving this TV. The Flashlighting has gone away as well.
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post #2681 of 3051
2/26/12 at 7:48am
I also use Redwolf's settings, and they're great.

The flashlighting and backlight issues do seem to take care of themselves significantly over time. This television is *perfect* during the day, even with the backlight cranked all the way up (the sun shines directly into my window in the early to late morning, so sometimes I have to).

Even at night, if I have a light on in the room, it's fine. It's only when the lights are completely all off and the backlight is at 12 that the issue remains. If I throw it down to 7 or so, it's much better. Still there, but much better.
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post #2682 of 3051
2/27/12 at 8:23am
I mentioned earlier in the thread that I was planning to return my UN55D6000 H302 panel. I returned it to Best Buy yesterday. I had the flash lighting in all four corners and even with the back light very low they were still there when black bars were on the screen. Even worse was the clouding effects. I could not watch a movie at all without being taken out with the washed out scenes. Colors looked so clear and vivid one moment, then a second later half the screen is all washed out. There is no way I could watch any content like that. I also had the stuttering issues which I was able to resolve with the clear setting.

I tried various settings from here in the forum and was able to get a fantastic picture on this set but was not able to shake the flashlight and clouding issues. I tried all different kinds of content and the issues were there in all of them. They were there with the lights off and with the lights on, the flashlights were less with the lights on but the clouding never went away.

My problem now is that I do not know what to replace it with. Plasma is not an option because burn in is still a problem as I just read in the plasma forums. We do a bit of everything , Dish, DVD, blu-ray, DLNA, Netflix, PS3 Gaming and even some 4:3 viewing.

I am researching the D8000 series for the mico dimming plus but not feeling confident about it so far for the additional money I will have to throw at it. So far it looks like those sets have issues also.
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post #2683 of 3051
2/27/12 at 9:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbow View Post

My problem now is that I do not know what to replace it with. Plasma is not an option because burn in is still a problem as I just read in the plasma forums. We do a bit of everything , Dish, DVD, blu-ray, DLNA, Netflix, PS3 Gaming and even some 4:3 viewing.

Burn-in on a plasma is virtually nonexistent. Break it in properly the first couple hundred hours and then don't worry about it.

I have a Samsung UN32D6000 LCD in the bedroom and a Pioneer Elite plasma in the living room. There is simply no comparison...plasma is far superior in picture quality and accuracy and has no off-center or flash-lighting issues.

If, God forbid, for some reason I have to replace my living room TV I would get a high-end Panasonic plasma or wait for the upcoming OLED.
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post #2684 of 3051
2/27/12 at 11:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by matt15f View Post

How the hell does samsung not use film = 0 and AMP = clear as the default settings from the factory?

Factory settings on these tv's have severe motion blur/artifacts. Changing those two settings basically removes the issue completely.

Aside that, the TV's have incredible picture. I don't understand why they ship these TV's from the factory with the settings they do.

I was thinking same thing last week when my parents bought 46d6900. Changed it from standard to clear.
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post #2685 of 3051
2/27/12 at 12:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spleen View Post

Burn-in on a plasma is virtually nonexistent. Break it in properly the first couple hundred hours and then don't worry about it.

I have a Samsung UN32D6000 LCD in the bedroom and a Pioneer Elite plasma in the living room. There is simply no comparison...plasma is far superior in picture quality and accuracy and has no off-center or flash-lighting issues.

If, God forbid, for some reason I have to replace my living room TV I would get a high-end Panasonic plasma or wait for the upcoming OLED.

Owned the pn51d550 for about a week. Had severe IR, returned it to Best Buy that day. The fact you have to "break-in" your new purchase is ridiculous IMO. I couldn't take it, never been happier with LED.
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post #2686 of 3051
2/27/12 at 12:13pm
Burn in / IR is a very real issue with plasma displays.
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post #2687 of 3051
2/27/12 at 12:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by balla01 View Post

Owned the pn51d550 for about a week. Had severe IR, returned it to Best Buy that day. The fact you have to "break-in" your new purchase is ridiculous IMO. I couldn't take it, never been happier with LED.


Balla,

What LED did you get?
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post #2688 of 3051
2/27/12 at 12:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbow View Post


Balla,

What LED did you get?

Originally got the UN46D6900 through BestBuy. They tried to screw me out of $130 because they wouldn't price match their own price, long story. Returned it, now I have the UN55D8000 en route, get it tomorrow. Paid $1787 with two pairs of glasses, 2 hdmi cables, and a wall mount.
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post #2689 of 3051
2/27/12 at 3:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by D Bone View Post

Burn in / IR is a very real issue with plasma displays.

Perhaps if the TV is severely abused but it is mostly a moot issue these days. Even an LCD TV can get burn-in if it is abused. If one is going to use their TV solely or mainly for gaming or prolonged static images or with black bars then I would recommend an LCD.

My main reason for jumping into this thread was to say that I have both display types and as far as picture quality goes plasma is clearly superior; thus, my recommendation to Dbow.
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post #2690 of 3051
2/27/12 at 3:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spleen View Post

Perhaps if the TV is severely abused but it is mostly a moot issue these days. Even an LCD TV can get burn-in if it is abused. If one is going to use their TV solely or mainly for gaming or prolonged static images or with black bars then I would recommend an LCD.

My main reason for jumping into this thread was to say that I have both display types and as far as picture quality goes plasma is clearly superior; thus, my recommendation to Dbow.

LCD burn ins are more like non-existent. While plasmas are still definitely there. What if I want to watch ESPN for 4 hours straight (which I do sometimes). I shouldn't have to worry about what I do with my tv. Define abuse? Enjoying a video game for 3-4 hours, I don't think that is abuse.

Not trying to attack you, just pointing out the facts.
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post #2691 of 3051
2/27/12 at 3:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by balla01 View Post

LCD burn ins are more like non-existent. While plasmas are still definitely there. What if I want to watch ESPN for 4 hours straight (which I do sometimes). I shouldn't have to worry about what I do with my tv. Define abuse? Enjoying a video game for 3-4 hours, I don't think that is abuse.

Not trying to attack you, just pointing out the facts.

I often watch ESPN for several hours at a time and I have experienced no evidence of IR and certainly not burn-in. A 3-4 hour video game will not have any adverse effects on my plasma TV. It would probably take several days of non-stop static images to harm my TV.
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post #2692 of 3051
2/27/12 at 4:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spleen View Post

I often watch ESPN for several hours at a time and I have experienced no evidence of IR and certainly not burn-in. A 3-4 hour video game will not have any adverse effects on my plasma TV. It would probably take several days of non-stop static images to harm my TV.

Perhaps true, but I owned the Samsung PN51D550 about a month ago. Had it for a week and had terrible IR. ESPN logo on the bottom right hand side of my screen. Returned the tv immediately, will never go back to a plasma.
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post #2693 of 3051
2/28/12 at 9:55am
Just got around to using the ATSC tuner on my 46D6000 and am impressed with how much it uses the program title information to almost formulate a mini onscreen TV guide. Here our FOX and CBS affiliates are about to be dropped from cable due to a contact impasse so I had to put in an antenna directly to the TV. The tuner is pretty strong and good at pulling in stations, it's definetly not the antenna I'm using which is a simple 12'' extendable monopole.

I don't like how you have to go into the smart-hub-channels to erase channels from memory, that was extremely non-intuitive why wouldn't you just go to Menu-Channels? I actually had to use the "E-manual" to find out how to do this(which actually helped me find what i needed to find).

I was also reminded how much better picture you get over OTA than cable... not jaw-dropping better but noticably. Boston FOX and CBS do not have any subchannels, ABC and NBC have only 1 each.
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post #2694 of 3051
2/28/12 at 11:11am
Been reading this thread since late November when I received my un55d6000.. Have been using Redwolf's settings for the past 2 months and they are great.. Also, had a flashlight effect on bottom left corner of TV (H302 panel) but it seems to have gone away.. Love this TV and would recommend it to anyone who asks.. Have a friend with the same tv and almost didn't buy it after watching his TV with the Clear Motion turned all the way up.. Glad I read up on it and found that it can be turned down or even completely off.. My setup is complete with an Xbox 360, PS3, HD dvr and a Sony surround sound system.. Also, I am able to control the PS3 with the TV remote which was a great bonus as I didn't have to buy an extra remote to watch blu rays..
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post #2695 of 3051
2/28/12 at 11:18am
For those of you that are gaming on this set in 'game mode' what do you keep your Dynamic Contrast setting at? Game mode's default is medium but I notice when turning it completely off, there is very slight and i mean very slight less noticeable input lag when moving the crosshair around in MW3. So slight that I may be dreaming it. I think the Medium setting looks better when playing MW3 and even Low looks better than Off. Just wondering if I am increasing input lag significantly by not having it off or I am just so anal crazy? haha. I also have the 55" model which might just suffer more from input lag because it is bigger. I have thought about just hooking up my 360 to my 23" Samsung SyncMaster and forgetting about it but my girlfriend uses the Kinect a lot on our D6000.

P.S. Other enhancements like DNR, MpgNR and Edge Enhancement are off.
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post #2696 of 3051
2/28/12 at 12:34pm
Folks, just to confirm --

With an OTA HDTV input to the TV's receiver, can the U55D6300 provide 5.1 audio out to an attached A/V receiver (Denon 2112ci) using reverse audio over HDMI?

Thanks
Wrooster
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post #2697 of 3051
2/28/12 at 1:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by balla01 View Post

Perhaps true, but I owned the Samsung PN51D550 about a month ago. Had it for a week and had terrible IR. ESPN logo on the bottom right hand side of my screen. Returned the tv immediately, will never go back to a plasma.

I had a plasma before replacing it with the UN46D6000. It was a 720p Maxcent bought from Costco about 6 years ago. The plasma did suffer from some minimal IR, but I would have to say that I liked the quality of the picture, and the ability to adjust it better on the plasma than the LCD.

I like my D6000, for the 1080p, and after having played around with the settings, have it adjusted pretty well. I'll share my settings when I get home later today. Since this is in the bedroom, I'm good with it, but I don't think I'd put an LCD in my main viewing area. There I have a Samsung rear projection DLP/LED, whose picture I love.
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post #2698 of 3051
2/29/12 at 3:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrooster View Post

Folks, just to confirm --

With an OTA HDTV input to the TV's receiver, can the U55D6300 provide 5.1 audio out to an attached A/V receiver (Denon 2112ci) using reverse audio over HDMI?

Thanks
Wrooster

Don't know about that but I have the optical out from D6000 back to my Denon 2308ci and OTA Does produce 5.1 when recieved. TV is Not set to external speakers and Denon is set to auto on optical input.
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post #2699 of 3051
2/29/12 at 9:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrooster View Post

Folks, just to confirm --

With an OTA HDTV input to the TV's receiver, can the U55D6300 provide 5.1 audio out to an attached A/V receiver (Denon 2112ci) using reverse audio over HDMI?

Thanks
Wrooster

The only way to get 5.1DD audio out of the TV is using the optical audio output port, while using the TV's internal ATSC(Over the air HD)/QAM(cable HD) tuner or through some SmartTV apps. Any input source that feeds into the TV, there is no way to get 5.1DD audio back out. Every HDTV is like this, per copyright restrictions/rules.
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post #2700 of 3051
3/1/12 at 7:58am
I'm really interested in getting a Samsung 55'' TV, and I could really use some help (I'll try to wade through this thread, but 90 pages is an overwhelming amount of info).

I'm interested in the Samsung 6000 series--the D6000, D6300, D6400, and D5000 mostly, I think.

My questions are these...

1) Are there any annoying and in some cases crippling issues with these televisions?

2) Is the capacitor issue something I should be worried about with these TV's?

3) The auto motion (or whatever it's called that can create the soap opera effect)--I think that's cool for sports, but can I turn it off when I watch TV shows and movies on blu ray?

4) I saw in a YouTube review that these Samsung TV's will remember your desired picture settings for each individual input. Is this true? Meaning, you can switch from your video game input for your XBOX to your Blu Ray player input for your movies, and the TV will remember the picture settings you like for your video gaming and your movie watching without you having to adjust and re adjust each time you make the switch.

5) How is the Samsung interface? One thing I like about what I've seen of the Sony Bravia's is that they've implemented the PS3-like interface to their TV's, so everything is very easy to navigate and understand.

6) Any input lag for video gaming? If so, how bad is it?

7) Is the 3D good or disappointing? I don't much care for 3D watching at home, but figure that it's possible the technology *could* improve. Still, is it good now? Only good for Pixar-type movies? Or just not worth the hype/money in general?

8) Lastly, do you use your TV to get onto the Internet? Do you use the Samsung apps? Overall, how well does the TV handle that kind of stuff? Is it slow? Buggy?

Thanks!
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