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Official Samsung UNXXD7000 Owners' Thread - Page 51

post #1501 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfp View Post

Ken, saw your post about no one helping, so, even tho I'm not an owner, here's my thoughts. I'll bet, that since the Smart Hub is generating its audio, that audio has no way to get back to your receiver and on to it's connected speakers. That's why you're still hearing audio from the SAT.

One solution would be to use the TVs speakers when using the Smart Hub by going into the Sound menu and turning them on and turning off the receiver.

Another solution, and I'm not totally up on the ARC, audio return channel, but, possibly, if you connect to, I believe, HDMI2, using the new High Speed HDMI cables, your receiver might be able to pick up the sound from the Smart Hub if it is a new one that can handle the ARC and is set up properly.

Another solution, and I'm weak on this one too, is to use an optical cable out from the TV to your receiver and select this audio channel when using the Smart Hub. I believe, however, that, while the TV may be generating 5.1, the optical channel may only output 2.1.

Google these concepts to get the scoop on which may work for you.

dfp,

you are correct on all accounts except that you can still get 5.1 on the optical cable.

I originally used the ARC function but didn't like how everything worked together so I switched to the optical cable which is working just fine.
post #1502 of 3244
I was reading the above post now I have a question. If I need to get audio to two components how would I do so? Does the tv have more than one audio out, or can I split the signal? My tv should be here today and just trying to get things straight.
post #1503 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by seanmuldrow View Post

Does anyone have any experience with the 7050 that Costco offers? Went by my local Costco tonight to catch a look but they didn't have it. My main question would be appearance, does it look any different? Can't find a pic on the website anywhere.

7050 may be same as 7000, although its stand base looks different. It also includes glasses. At Costco in our area they got soldout on opening day of Thanksgiving sale. I got one, it is great, no issues, and at a very good price. I also bought $99 insurance to 5 yrs.
post #1504 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim1 View Post

dfp,

you are correct on all accounts except that you can still get 5.1 on the optical cable.

I originally used the ARC function but didn't like how everything worked together so I switched to the optical cable which is working just fine.

You don't get 5.1 on optical cable either, if TV is playing external signal (STB, BR, etc.) but should produce on Smart Hub functions. ARC, which I use, also provides just simple stereo. There is really no perfect solution to get 5.1
post #1505 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadhead View Post

What TV did you get at this price, 7000 or 7050. Costco had 7050 for $1699 for 90 day no questions asked return policy?

I'll let you know when i get it today!!
post #1506 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadhead View Post

You don't get 5.1 on optical cable either, if TV is playing external signal (STB, BR, etc.) but should produce on Smart Hub functions. ARC, which I use, also provides just simple stereo. There is really no perfect solution to get 5.1

Just to clarify, I was only talking about audio coming from the smart hub not cable, sorry for the confusion. When watching netflix with a movie that has 5.1, I get that through the optical cable. For watching TV I have a satellite box that goes directly to the receiver not through the TV.
post #1507 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim1 View Post

Just to clarify, I was only talking about audio coming from the smart hub not cable, sorry for the confusion. When watching netflix with a movie that has 5.1, I get that through the optical cable. For watching TV I have a satellite box that goes directly to the receiver not through the TV.

Tim,
When you have your STB connect via the Receiver, and also use ARC? Do you know how the audio signal work? Does the Receive get from the TV or from the STB. I am trying to find a solution needing least button presses when I want to move between TV/STB/BD, and use/no-use Receiver.
post #1508 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim1 View Post

Just to clarify, I was only talking about audio coming from the smart hub not cable, sorry for the confusion. When watching netflix with a movie that has 5.1, I get that through the optical cable. For watching TV I have a satellite box that goes directly to the receiver not through the TV.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. From my AVR's thread, it's pretty well been determined that using just the HDMI cable between the Samsung display & the Yamaha AVR will not work for ARC! The whole concept (as I understand it) is that it should. My Yamaha AVR's OM even shows it to work. But it appears that Samsung & it's CEC/Anynet+ does not interface well with the Yamaha AVR and therein lies the problem. I can probably use optical as suggested here & the other thread, but it simply bothers me that I should not have to do it! The whole idea behind HDMI is to eliminate cabling; not to add it. I did have it working for a while by going into my AVR and enabling HDMI Control & ARC & selecting AV1 as my input. I could then go to the Smart Hub & press AV1 on the Samsung's remote & bingo, I had audio to my external speakers while in the HUB. After awhile I switched back to SAT viewing & all was still ok. But when I powered everything off that evening with my Harmony & then powered up in the morning, everything worked well for a short period while watching SAT. But about a minute into it, I lost audio & AV1 appeared on my 7000's panel lower right. I then had to go back into my AVR's set-up menu and disable ARC & HDMI Control. Then all was back to normal as to my SAT viewing. The (2) components just don't work well together using ARC with a single HDMI cable as it should. I may have to resort to optical for Smart Hub viewing even though I don't want to nor should I have to.

Ken
post #1509 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadhead View Post

Tim,
When you have your STB connect via the Receiver, and also use ARC? Do you know how the audio signal work? Does the Receive get from the TV or from the STB. I am trying to find a solution needing least button presses when I want to move between TV/STB/BD, and use/no-use Receiver.

Deadhead,

I have an Onkyo Receiver. The STB is pugged into HDMI port for CBL/SAT. When I was using the ARC function I would have to switch ports to TV/CD to get the internal sound of the TV (SmartHub). This all worked fine and worked as it should. What I didn't like is the way the CEC/Anynet+ works with this. If I turned on the tv and sat and selected CBL/SAT, after about 30 sec the receiver would switch to TV/CD on it's own. The TV gets control. This is how it's supposed to work but I didn't like it because that did not work well with the macros in the harmony remote. That is why I switched back to optical.
post #1510 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenonDJ View Post

I was reading the above post now I have a question. If I need to get audio to two components how would I do so? Does the tv have more than one audio out, or can I split the signal? My tv should be here today and just trying to get things straight.

This will depend entirely on what components you have in the mix. If you plan on using the 7000's Smart Hub feature, you could have the same problem I'm having. By definition, ARC works using one (1) HDMI cable from your display to your AVR provided the AVR has ARC capability. If you post what components you will be hooking up, I'm sure someone here can help.

Ken
post #1511 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim1 View Post

Deadhead,

I have an Onkyo Receiver. The STB is pugged into HDMI port for CBL/SAT. When I was using the ARC function I would have to switch ports to TV/CD to get the internal sound of the TV (SmartHub). This all worked fine and worked as it should. What I didn't like is the way the CEC/Anynet+ works with this. If I turned on the tv and sat and selected CBL/SAT, after about 30 sec the receiver would switch to TV/CD on it's own. The TV gets control. This is how it's supposed to work but I didn't like it because that did not work well with the macros in the harmony remote. That is why I switched back to optical.

This brings up a good point! As I understand it from other threads, there is a known issue with Harmony remotes and Anynet+. This could likely be one of my problems.

Ken
post #1512 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by hearrean View Post

This brings up a good point! As I understand it from other threads, there is a known issue with Harmony remotes and Anynet+. This could likely be one of my problems.

Ken

I don't think this is a harmony issue, this happens whether I use the Harmony remote or not. I think what is happening is that when every thing is turned on, after about 30 second the TV sends out a signal and the receiver interprets this as a video signal so it automatically switches ports. It's not a big deal but I just found it a pain to have to always switch back to the proper port.
post #1513 of 3244
Guys, if you don't have to enable Anynet to get ARC to work, then turn off Anynet (aka HDMI/CEC) in the TV, and any blu ray player you may have running into a receiver.

Anynet has been causing problems at least for three years, since the time I bought my 52A860 and Denon receiver. Back then it went something like this... when you turn off, say, a Samsung blu ray connected to the receiver, the TV defaults back to the TV input instead of remaining on HDMI1, the TV's only input (connected to the receiver). Turn off Anynet, problem solved.
post #1514 of 3244
So when I bought my D7000, I had no intention of using the 3D, but now I'm becoming very curious. Just wondering if my Pioneer 1018 AH-K is capable (sorry, I've done zero research), and what 3D glasses do I need?
post #1515 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfp View Post

Guys, if you don't have to enable Anynet to get ARC to work, then turn off Anynet (aka HDMI/CEC) in the TV, and any blu ray player you may have running into a receiver.

Anynet has been causing problems at least for three years, since the time I bought my 52A860 and Denon receiver. Back then it went something like this... when you turn off, say, a Samsung blu ray connected to the receiver, the TV defaults back to the TV input instead of remaining on HDMI1, the TV's only input (connected to the receiver). Turn off Anynet, problem solved.

Exactly why I went back to using the optical cable.
post #1516 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfp View Post

Guys, if you don't have to enable Anynet to get ARC to work, then turn off Anynet (aka HDMI/CEC) in the TV, and any blu ray player you may have running into a receiver.

Anynet has been causing problems at least for three years, since the time I bought my 52A860 and Denon receiver. Back then it went something like this... when you turn off, say, a Samsung blu ray connected to the receiver, the TV defaults back to the TV input instead of remaining on HDMI1, the TV's only input (connected to the receiver). Turn off Anynet, problem solved.

Not quite! Previously before getting the 7000 a few days ago, I had/have always only had (1) HDMI cable coming out of my Yamaha AVR going to my display. (so I only had one input in use on my display). I didn't change anything when I got the 7000. I just made sure the HDMI coming from my AVR went to HDMI2/ARC on the 7000. (I did not enable Anynet+). Everything (SAT STB & BD Player) worked fine just as before. My Harmony would switch activities from one to the other...no problem. And it works fine now except I cannot get audio when in the Smart Hub. Again, I will add that I did not enable Anynet+ on my 7000. The only way I can get audio from Smart Hub is as I've mentioned here. Go into my AVR & enable HDMI Control & ARC & assign an input, which I chose AV1. Then I press AV1 on the 7000's remote & I have sound through my external speakers. But when I power everything off in the evening (with my Harmony) & then power back up the next day & watch SAT, everything is fine for about a minute, then I lose audio and you can see AV1 on the 7000's display. (IOW's it reverted back automatically to AV1 from HDMI 2). So I have to turn HDMI Control & ARC in my AVR back off & then all is well. It will not work with HDMI as it is supposed to! This makes me feel it has nothing to do with Anynet+, since I didn't have it enabled. Optical may be the answer, but you simply should not have to go this route.

Ken
post #1517 of 3244
Just upgraded to this tv. I thought I was buying a samsung un55d7000 with the 240hz. When I picked it up it was a samsung un55d7000LF. The picture of the box in this threads first post clearly shows 240hz mine says 720 clear motion? Are these the same set? When I questioned the manager he tried to tell me that they were.

This appears to be an awesome thread with a lot of great tips. I'm not very tech savy and I have a lot to learn to get the most from this set. Thank you to all that have posted. I'm looking forward to reading through the rest of the thread this week. First things first is to make sure I got the right set before I spend a lot of time figuring out the settings and how to use all the features.
post #1518 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridaclipper View Post

Just upgraded to this tv. I thought I was buying a samsung un55d7000 with the 240hz. When I picked it up it was a samsung un55d7000LF. The picture of the box in this threads first post clearly shows 240hz mine says 720 clear motion? Are these the same set? When I questioned the manager he tried to tell me that they were.

This appears to be an awesome thread with a lot of great tips. I'm not very tech savy and I have a lot to learn to get the most from this set. Thank you to all that have posted. I'm looking forward to reading through the rest of the thread this week. First things first is to make sure I got the right set before I spend a lot of time figuring out the settings and how to use all the features.

The 720 Clear Motion is Samsung's "calculation" of how well the TV will display fast moving pictures. It's hard to say that it means very much, it takes into account refresh rate (240 Hz), backlight scanning and some other mumbo jumbo. Basically, the higher number, the better, but many people think the difference is not noticeable--or that any of this stuff even matters. Some people, including me, turn off all the motion smoothing features because it makes films look like a soap opera.
post #1519 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by FluxCubby View Post

The 720 Clear Motion is Samsung's "calculation" of how well the TV will display fast moving pictures. It's hard to say that it means very much, it takes into account refresh rate (240 Hz), backlight scanning and some other mumbo jumbo. Basically, the higher number, the better, but many people think the difference is not noticeable--or that any of this stuff even matters. Some people, including me, turn off all the motion smoothing features because it makes films look like a soap opera.

Thanks for the response. I'll turn it off. I've noticed the soap opera look. Can't wait until Monday when I'll have help to mount it, hide the wires, and get the surround sound hooked back up. Only on page 13 of the thread. I'll read more tomorrow. Was a consensus reached on initial settings to try when first setting it up?
post #1520 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadhead View Post

Has anybody been playing with Youtube on Samsung TVs. I downloaded it to my 55D7050. It seems to be almost unusable. QWERTY keyboard doesn't work. Cannot logon. Cannot save past searches, or anything else. Starts to play some random video when clicked.

You can use your iPhone download app samsung
post #1521 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by oilcandan View Post

Is there a code? I just looked and at final checkout it's coming in at about $1,900.

I bout my for1499
post #1522 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridaclipper View Post

Thanks for the response. I'll turn it off. I've noticed the soap opera look. Can't wait until Monday when I'll have help to mount it, hide the wires, and get the surround sound hooked back up. Only on page 13 of the thread. I'll read more tomorrow. Was a consensus reached on initial settings to try when first setting it up?

I'd go with the settings mentioned in the first post and then adjust to your liking. Yea I remember the first time I watched programming with frame interpolation turned on. Couldn't figure out why "The Transporter" looked like a soap opera...even my wife noticed it! Much happier with it off...
post #1523 of 3244
Could someone please explain in laymans terms what this Soap Opera effect is? Ta
post #1524 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by hearrean View Post

If you want to be "ignored," you picked the right thread! I haven't had one post answered or commented on...But anyway, sorry, I can't help you since I'm not a gamer and have never had a reason to test the settings in that mode. You might have better luck in the 8000 series thread since the settings should vary only minimally. The higher DC shouldn't affect the settings in Game mode. Good Luck!

Ken

thanks for your reply
post #1525 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by StumpyBloke View Post

Could someone please explain in laymans terms what this Soap Opera effect is? Ta

It's just terminology that folks are using to explain the effect that the AMP gives when activated and set on "Standard." They use this terminology because it gives the look that Soap Opera's tend to have because they are shot utilizing a videotape process, which differs from the film process used on regular programming or movies..

Ken
post #1526 of 3244
Thanks Ken, sorry what I meant was, what is the actual effect than manifests from the SA effect?

Thx again
post #1527 of 3244
Just wanted to say that I ordered my first flat panel TV.. ever. It will arrive tomorrow.

I got the 60 Inch D7000 (UN60D7000). Very excited to replace my 36 inch Sony Trinitron CRT (HD Model). Talk about your upgrades. Now have to spend the next few days reading this thread...

Other changes I plan very soon:
- Drop my insight/TW cable and get DirectTV.
- Get the Samsung HW-D550/551 sound bar (Black or Silver? help me decide)
- Get advice on a good wall mount
- Get advice on equipment to run the cables behind the wall.

I'll read the thread, but feel free to provide any advice.
post #1528 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by hearrean View Post

Not quite! Previously before getting the 7000 a few days ago, I had/have always only had (1) HDMI cable coming out of my Yamaha AVR going to my display. (so I only had one input in use on my display). I didn't change anything when I got the 7000. I just made sure the HDMI coming from my AVR went to HDMI2/ARC on the 7000. (I did not enable Anynet+). Everything (SAT STB & BD Player) worked fine just as before. My Harmony would switch activities from one to the other...no problem. And it works fine now except I cannot get audio when in the Smart Hub. Again, I will add that I did not enable Anynet+ on my 7000. The only way I can get audio from Smart Hub is as I've mentioned here. Go into my AVR & enable HDMI Control & ARC & assign an input, which I chose AV1. Then I press AV1 on the 7000's remote & I have sound through my external speakers. But when I power everything off in the evening (with my Harmony) & then power back up the next day & watch SAT, everything is fine for about a minute, then I lose audio and you can see AV1 on the 7000's display. (IOW's it reverted back automatically to AV1 from HDMI 2). So I have to turn HDMI Control & ARC in my AVR back off & then all is well. It will not work with HDMI as it is supposed to! This makes me feel it has nothing to do with Anynet+, since I didn't have it enabled. Optical may be the answer, but you simply should not have to go this route.

Ken

Questions:
1. You say: "The only way I can get audio from Smart Hub is as I've mentioned here. Go into my AVR & enable HDMI Control & ARC & assign an input, which I chose AV1. Then I press AV1 on the 7000's remote & I have sound through my external speakers."
- Does Yamaha say you have to do all 3 steps on your receiver to get ARC to work?
- Does Yamaha say you have to assign AV1? Why not HDMI2?
- Does Yamaha say you then have to select AV1 on the 7000?

2. After it's reverted, when you say "you can see AV1 on the 7000s display", what display do you mean? That when you hit the Source button that AV1 is highlighted? If so, does selecting HDMI2 solve it?

3. I'm only vaguely familiar with ARC, so if you can answer the questions above, it will help me understand. I did notice that you have to enable HDMI Control in the Yamaha. Is that their implementation of HDMI-CEC (called anynet by Samsung)? If you can try without enabling HDMI control, that could do it:

I think it could be the Harmony getting out of sync with the Samsung remote selecting AV1, or could be that Yamaha's HDMI Control is their "Anynet" and is letting things revert.

Eliminate the Harmony and see if it works:
To troubleshoot, try doing your 4 steps: your normal SAT watching, followed by Hub watching, turn off, turn on to watch SAT again and see if it reverts all without using the Harmony... just use the Yamaha remote and the Samsung remote and see what happens. This gets the Harmony out of the equation. If it still fails, try not turning on HDMI Control in the AVR (3 above) and repeat your 4 steps.

If you need HDMI Control for anything to work, then it might be the Harmony. You say you have to select AV1 on the 7000 using the Samsung remote. That seems like a step your Harmony doesn't know about and is left hanging out of sync when you power down with the Harmony. So:
- Put a step in the Harmony under your SAT watching activity to discretely select HDMI2 up front. On my Harmony 650 its called Input HDMI2. Use the discrete commands instead of the typical Samsung scrolling input method... Samsung will accept these commands, just look in your Harmony's TV device file.
- Or, put a step in your Hub watching Activity to select HDMI2 just before powering off.
- Geez, here's another test, can you switch from Hub watching to SAT watching, and does that work?

If you can answer my 3 questions and take the Harmony out of the testing, maybe we can come up with a solution. I think the answer is in here.
post #1529 of 3244
I bought UN55D7000 on Black Friday.. It shows Feb 2011 (H302) and 001020 software version.

So far I've no issue with Flashlight or Clouding...

This TV amazed my wife and she went crazy.
post #1530 of 3244
I just got my un60d7000 and I am having trouble paring my QWERTY remote with the TV I am also having an issue with pairing my 3d glasses. Has any one else has had this issue? Does anyone know what else I might try or know what the issue is?
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