Official Samsung UNXXD7000 Owners' Thread - Page 75

Yeah, everything was turned off, and I have been running the TV in Game Mode. This seems to provide me the best watching experience, but the stutter is still there.

The tech confirmed that the TV was acting goofy and we seem to have isolated the problem to the timming board.

That price is NOT for the 60" must be for 55.

The 60" is $2,499

It's a mystery to me too. It seems like as these TVs get more complex and expensive, they are actually getting worse.

I have a 6 year old Sharp Aquos and it doesnt have any of these fancy features, but what it does have is sick picture quality, which is the only thing I care about.

I want a new TV, but Im no sucker and I refuse to spend 2 grand on something that is flawed. Ill literally wait a year until someone figures out how to build a decent TV with none of these defects. Im a patient man.

I just picked up my new un55d7000 2 days ago. I spent hours on this forum trying to decide between the Samsung or a Sony EX720. A friend of mine works in the AV industry so I would have been buying the Sony "new in box" from his store. I liked the Samsung's design and few other features just a little bit more. I ended up buying the Samsung from another store since my friend did not have it. So now I'm ready to work on all of the settings. Wow there is a million of them.

One thing you must understand is that MOST of the good people on here that post are videophiles...they/we expect perfection. I also own a 52" aquos from 5-6 years ago that had the infamous "banding" issues. I find alot of times that if you dont go looking for problems you'll never find them. I love this site, but sometimes reading all the post actually makes it worse on you trying to make a decision on which TV to buy....They all have issues of some kind...just like alot of people with this TV complain of motion blur? How in the hell can a TV with 240 HZ have motion blur? My 60hz sharp has some, but very little....

You have to limit what you read and decide what you want to forget after reading it, if your looking for perfection I think right now the only thing out there that I know of is the new Sharp Elites, but you better get your checkbook out, I think the cheapest one is around $4,500.

Again, this is just my opinion, but don't go looking for trouble and most times you wont find it...

Thinner panels, energy efficiency are the main reasons for the current issues.
In order to be thinner, they need to be lit from the edge not the back. If you beam light into nearly anything from the sides, it is excessively difficult to keep it uniform.

I digress...Comcast added phone and internet to my service. Seems to me I was getting 1920x1080 on HD broadcasts. Now I'm getting 1280x720.

Am I wrong about the 1920? They didn't touch the TV; any idea what might have happened?

The chances are it isn't going to get any better.

+1 but from my research the thin sammy's have about the best PQ i have seen...I'm still on board to get one but I think I'm going to wait on the new models, check them out and then decide if ZI want to get a new model or hopefully a cheaper 7000

Hello fellow d7000 family, I have the 60 inch version that I got from Dell tv, 5500 , and 2 pair of glasses. I had the set for one day mounted it with the picture frame hangers of which are not quite right because the tv is to big to completely extend the bracket that allows you to connect wires. Now the first issue is being resolved as we speak but, the panel has a green line on the left hand corner the length of the set stuck pixels I guess. Dell has sent me another one hopefully to be here Monday, no the real issue is the Anynet, I have a Onkyo tx 705 and a ps3 currently hooked up.

The way I have it hooked up is Fios dvr (7232) hdmi to onkyo, set up on cable input, Ps3 Hdmi hooked up game input to the Onkyo. Output of the onkyo directly to tv Hdmi2, also have component from dvr straight to tv so I don't always have to listen through stereo.

At one point I could see the volume control from the stereo on the screen of the samsung, anynet works fine for the ps3 i can activate it with the samsung remote and actually control the ps3 with it. I however have lost the volume control on the onkyo onscreen when I refresh the anynet it configures the Onkyo but, when I try and turn it on where it says receiver it does not connect I have check all cables they are fished 15 feet away in a closet so replacement is not going to be easy if needed but I have not pic or sound quality issues. What and or how do I get the anynet to work on my 705 again?

And last but, no least to get sound from the smart hub apps ie netflix, hbo go and the like do I have to use a optical cable back to the
705?

Long time reader less of a poster

For cable broadcasts they are in 720p or 1080i, 1080i shouldn't be considered superior to 720p. 720p gives 720 lines of resolution every 60 seconds where 1080i gives 540. That said, you should do some research on what your cable provides and set your box to it. My provider provides everything in 720p but for PPV/On Demand pay titles.


Carter42;

The green line is a bad panel, it's not a stuck pixel, it happens to all the screens from every maker, I had a 4 year old panel get a red line, the only fix is to replace the screen.

Anynet - HDMI control; Personally it's really a PITA, like ARC, it's great when it works, but there's serious issues with it especially when playing with different devices.
On the TV go to MENU>SYSTEM>ANYNET+(HDMI-CEC) and set the options there to ON/YES/ON.
On the AVR set HDMI Control to ON
Odds are very strong when your handshake ends up out of sync, you will have to repeat the process, I gave up on it with my Denon as have many others here.

On your last point, which partly goes into the last one, an optical cable is likely best, I use one, works very well. If you have a Harmony remote it's easy to add a new event "TV" and have it swap modes for you.

@nitra:

Thanks. I just checked the box's menu and changed the HDMI setting to "Native" and now most channels indicate 1920x1080.

I am accessing internet via built-in wi-fi. The browser is slooooow. Apps like YouTube are constantly buffering. I'd like to get Netflix at some point but seems like it's not likely to work.

By comparison my Dell laptop pulls a healthy 16 Mbps from the same spot. My Cisco wireless N router is around 45' away w/ no walls between.

Couple of points (May not apply to your router, but it might);
A lot of newer routers support 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz, but not all laptops do, the TV supports 5, you can have some very serious connection issues if you don't separate them.
Login to your Cisco router, on the wireless tab, turn off Wi-Fi Protected Setup and put it on manual.
Edit the SSID for 5Ghz, add a -5 to the end of it, and change both of the channel widths to 20Mhz.
Save the settings, reboot the router to make sure they're applied correctly.
Log back in and turn back on Wi-Fi Protected Setup.
After this, connect your TV to the -5.

Hopefully this fixes the issue for you.

PS, the browser on the TV isn't the best in the world, it's laggy at best.

I have had my 60und7000 for two weeks, I called samsung about the flashlighting and clouds, they told me to turn my backlight down to 7 (I kept it on 9 or 10) and watch it that way for a week, monday will make a week and i still have the clouding and flashlights. The tv pq is awesome, but when things get dark i notice them, i will call back monday and hopefully then they will schedule an appointment to fix the issue.

I purchased the 55" a week ago with a H302 panel and I could not be happier. The picture quality if amazing and well as the general look of the TV. There hasn't been any clouding or flashlighting at all *knock on wood*. I did notice the "soap opera" effect until I changed all the settings. Now it is perfect. Money well spent

All these sets have this issue, some are much worse then others, it's a function of the edge lighting. That said, they have a 3-4 week break-in period and it does get a bit better. Taking advantage of the ECO sensor can help a great deal with this issue, set it to bottom out at 5, if you've got the lights off, or very low it will adjust the light levels. For the break-in period it has always been said keep the BL at 8 or lower.

The ECO sensor really does make a difference, I'm still not sure why people enjoy getting a suntan from their tv's while watching a movie in darkness. -_-

I had a quick question. When you got your tv calibrated, did they tell you what gamma the tv was calibrated too? I have mind to 2.5

lucky devil! u don't have to knock on wood, if it's not there from initial power-up it will never appear down the road either.

Guys, sorry if I'm beating a dead horse here, buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut...

Here's a few photos I took of the TV last night. This edge lighting is really getting on my nerves. This is in a moderately dark room with, among other things, backlight set to 5 and brightness set to 35.

This edge "glow" does not disappear, regardless of what I'm watching. It appears on the top and the bottom of the image. Dark scenes it's terrible, but even in brighter scenes, like in The Office episode below, it's still pretty bad. I can't imagine this is normal, especially considering my TV is only two months old...

It's normal. Comes with having a edge lit tv

+1, Completely normal for edge lighting. That said, proper backlight and use of the eco sensor can get rid of most of it.
If it's really driving you nuts, you might want to consider some bias lighting.

I guess it just seems like the dropoff from the edge lighting is pretty dramatic, hence the strip of irregular lighting on the top and bottom. I guess I would just assume that it would provide a bit more of a gradual drop off. (I should note I'm using the Eco Sensor and low backlight settings per your advice nitra.)

Are you sure your Eco is on? It dies tune off if you mess with the backlight setting.

Yeah, it is turned on, though I did notice it was turned off the other day for whatever reason. I guess that explains why. But yeah, it's currently on.

When i hook up my computer to the tv my desktop is shifted on the screen, so i only see half of my desktop icons. How do i fix this?
Both my computer and tv are connected to my wireless router, is there a way i can watch videos saved on my computer without actually connecting the computer to the tv?
Tia

Computer should be in HDMI 1 only, set the TV to screen-fit as well.
Beyond that, there will be driver settings for overscan etc and resolution, you need to set them there as well.

Darn replacement tv cam today and unfortunately it is a 301 panel also got it all mounted have yet to calibrate based on Nitra settings, have to admit it looks great little to no clouding or flashlighting, had a couple of guys over to help me rehang it and we watched transformers and, the robot boxing movie and they were literally blown away, one is a tech head such as myself the other knows something good when he see's or hears it, the blacks are ridiculous on this tv they stated that it looks 3d without 3d on and the tech head played modern warfare and stated that it did not jerk or lag like it does on his 46 inch sony xbr3 I too have the same tv in the 40 inch model, I look for him to 1 up me soon as we do this all the time.

I also did get the smart hub sound to work using the optical cable, and I also got my receiver to sink up to the tv anynet at 330 am this morning page 95 of the owners manual has the info on what and how to set it up.

Now I just have to reprogram my harmany 880 to work and switch like i want it to.

Will keep the board abreast on the tv performance.

ps at some time when I push a button on the remote i get a pic of a circle with led and battery and something else what is this designating

Hi All,

I had a 46" D7000 with the 301 panel. There was some pretty good flashlighting going on, and yesterday, Samsung replaced the panel. There was no 301, 302, or 302 marked anywhere on the new panel. It was manufactured in 2012, so I suspect that it may be a newer panel then the one that came with the TV.

Does anyone know how to verify which new panel I received?

- Thanx
- Jon

It would have been on the box, or on the backside of the panel itself.